Suzam

Sorry not sure on a 93. I know on the 95 I can access it via removal of the ash tray. There's just one wire that plugs onto the center contact on the back. The cylider itself has a fork shaped clip on it behind the panel.

Sounds like the socket or the plug wire behind it got fried before the fuse had a chance to blow. You'll have to get in behind or remove it and check.

If receipts are produced for the claimed work, I say it's a good deal. Maintenance records are worth their weight in gold.

Check all hose connections towards the back of the engine. Our MY01 had the same thing after a tune up. It took 3 trips back before the dealer found a partially disconnected hose. We had to keep the recirculator button on when we used the heat. Sorry I don't know which one to tell you to look for.

Sounds more like the ECU controlling it than mechanical/fluid issues. You could try resetting the ECU and try again, or stop beating Auntie's car! Seriously, I have never be "happy" with the shift points or the delay of downshift in our MY01. I feel like I have to slam my foot to the floor and pray the 4EAT downshifts so that tractor trailer doesn't run me over while I merge into traffic

Great to hear! The comments on the board sometimes aren't realistic real-world experiences. If a car runs fine the owners don't complain on the internet, but if it doesn't they find a board like this to complain. For the most part, I belive that the a great percentage of Subaru owners are more than happy with their cars. I know I am! Welcome!

Oxygenated gasoline formulas in winter seem to reduce MPG. I seem to loose around 2-3 MPG every season. BTW-Welcome to the board!

Did the problems exist before you did the work, or after?

When you say running hot, where on the temp gauge is the needle? You never spewed coolant or steamed up the engine compartment, right? Have you seen the bubbles in the overflow tank? 2.2's are pretty tough and while I not saying the never blow a headgasket, it's fairly unusual but not unheard of. I'd find someone who can test for exhaust gases in the coolant before I decided on new head gaskets. Also I'd want to know what was the code that caused the CEL to come on. Did the dealer ever tell you?

When you say "went out", what were the symptoms? Did it give any warning? Did both suffer the same problems?

Try different gas at the recommended octane, sounds like it could be the knock sensor adjusting your timing on the fly.

Sounds like you may have some pad material transfered onto the front rotors due to heat. You could ask the dealer to relace the rotor, but they will most likely want to resurface them, which would relive the symptoms also. There are several links about the same problem you can try a search. One discussion was about replacing the pads with better than OEM material.

I had an alternator smell on our MY95 Legacy L. Replaced it to solve the problem. It was making some noise so I think it was the rotor bearings, but no other symptoms like you descibed. Others on the board have reported that the tach & speedometer did quit. It could be a weak ground, check your wire connections but that smell you have make me think you need to replace it. Takes about 15 minutes to put a new one in.

Almost any Subaru wheels will fit, I installed 205/55-16 tires on WRX wheels on our MY95 Legacy L sedan with no problems.

True, only the MY99 Forester and Impreza were SOHC—then all models became SOHC in MY00.

Any phase I DOHC 2.5 have a potential (not a certainty) for internal headgasket problems. Phase II SOHC 2.5 starting from 1999 in certain models up to 2002 have possible external coolant leaks. If the coolant additive was added by a Subaru dealer the warranty is to 100K on the phase II.

I think a good example would be drag racers, I was watching a show on the Speed Channel where they commented on the rise of the dragster as the wheels spin and the tire height changes due to centrifugal force. They actually take the tire into account for the final drive ratio because as the tire spins higher it acts as an "overdrive" to change the final ratio.

What symptoms indicate no AWD? Also, how long have you owned the car and how many miles have you put on it? I saw your other post indicating that there was a fuse installed, is that true? If so when removed did it make a difference?

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/people/injury/childps/csr2001/csrhtml/LATCH.html

Yep, I agree. I have a MY95 that does the same thing, every winter.

What is your basis for concluding that it stops working after 40 MPH?

Post a picture when you get it all together!

Needcoin, if you do this, please keep records of your experience for us and report back. There have been several discussions started on the idea of better gas mileage by using FWD, however some members think that with the fact that Subaru AWD has a 90% front to 10% rear distribution of torque during normal driving that the weight of the system, not mechanical drag, has a greater impact on the MPG.

Demographics play a big roll in what a car is worth, so does mileage and condition. Try kbb.com or a similar site to get a ballpark worth of the car for your area.

Search the board for the proceedure to burp the cooling system. Verify that you have removed all air from the system and hope the bubbles do stop. You can also have a test of the coolant done for hydrocarbons which would indicate a headgasket.