Suzam

Yes, you can, but you won't know what the code is caused by. Stop at Autozone, they read it for free and then you know why the CEL came on in the first place. If you don't care, disconnect the negative cable for about 1/2 hour.

Phase 2 don't so much blow gaskets as leak externally on the low pressure (coolant) side. Phase 1 however blows out the high pressure (combustion) side.

Don't they go off when you lift the parking brake handle? Usually 1 click up turns them off.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2005.html

Thanks for the link, I may call and find out what they have in the yard, I used to work in Conshohocken so i know that area pretty well.

It took me 5 days and a couple of posts here before I found where to connect the harness. The MY01 models have it all the way in the back compartment I figure the MY00 should be there too. Pick up the rear floor to expose the spare; on the right (passenger) side, there is a carpet panel on the floor with a syrofoam type spacer below it. Remove these, and then fish in the body frame openings along the outer body to find the plug. It should be close to the center of the opening.

Hey Rob, do they have any other Subies, I need a couple of things for my MY95. I tried Googling but came up empty. Can you post or email me the address of Shorty's? I'm always looking for sources for parts. TIA.

Assuming the LED indicators still work, they'd be on if a disk was present. Blazer: can you hear the motors running for the slots?

Does it spit it out on it's own without you touching any buttons? I remember hitting the #1 button thinking I was loading additional disks and was ejecting the disk in slot #1. Have you tried selecting an different slot? Try pushing say..#4, you should hear the mechanisum wind up the slot for you to insert the disk. Afterwards it winds back down and you can select another button/slot for another disk.

A compression test will not be a positive test for a blown headgasket. The Phase I 2.5 can have a good compression test with a bad head gasket. That's why the overheating can seem to be an intermittent problem, like at highway speeds but fine at idle. Unless you see sludge in the overflow and it smells like exhaust, you can only tell with a hydrocarbon test of the coolant which will tell you if there is a leaking head gasket. As I read your post I wonder if you have tried replacing the radiator cap with a new one?

Is it a knock or a valve chatter? My Mother-in-laws 98 Outback valves will tap if extremely cold or she's due for an oil change. Have you checked your oil level lately?

Also make sure your license plate is tight. That was a problem with mine.

Sweet! I like that drop and with those wheels and tires I bet it does track nicely.:burnout:

Sounds like maybe something like a leaf or gum wrapper has found it's way into the fan area. I had a similar problem and ran the fan on high speed for a while and it finally cleared itself out.

I agree with OB99W, a couple of years ago I put WRX wheels on the Legacy and asked around about a good tire pressure. I wanted to run them a little higher than stock, and a lot of responses were to inflate to maximum pressure stated on the sidewall. I can't belive that there are that many drivers running that kind of pressure without failures. A blowout at any speed could be a disaster, but at higher presure the odds are increased for failure dramaticaly. There must be a write up somewhere on the internet about the danger of this.

I have 140K miles on a 95 Legacy L and found 34-35lbs front and 32-33 lbs back COLD PRESSURE gave me the most even tread wear on the stock size tires and not too hard a ride. Just remember to regularly check the pressures so you have normal tread wear and keep the AWD happy.

Yes that's normal. Your headlights only work with the key in the "on" position. The button on the column is for your parking lights to stay on when there is no key in the car.

iomatic, Have you had a chance to brave the cold yet? The other connections I think you were asking me about are on the opposite side of the engine in the same basic place. I just tightened the clamps on either side of the rubber fuel line that connects the metal lines together. There are 4 hose clamps altogether-2 for each side. As mentioned by Juan, the reason you smell it more when defrosting is that it blows directly into your face. You just have to figure out if it's gasoline or antifreeze. Mine smelled of gasoline, just like when you fill the tank. Antifreeze has more of a sweet rubbery like smell. Just remember-don't over tighten any clamps, just snug them up and recheck later. Or even better, if you locate the problem you could get a mechanic to service it.

The sensor is behind the grill in front of the radiator, easy access when you open the hood. However, my '01 model has the temp display at the bottom of the tach under the clock. I thought that the '00 was the same? :-\ The display on my auto-dimming mirror is a compass.

Welcome to the board! Sounds like something may have gotten spilled into the switch. I think you’re on the right track, maybe some type of spray cleaner sparingly sprayed into the base of the switch would help and save you from taking it apart?

The gas lines have had cold weather leak issues, check this link with a picture of the clamps I tightened on my Outback. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=11897 Hope this helps.

Here's one link from a while ago when our MY01 Outback had a similar issue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11897

Wow that bites. The lack of professionalism from the service department really breaks you confidence in a dealer. Makes you wonder just how much work they are actually doing vs. what they tell you they do. Didn't they offer you a loaner? I would also try to contact the general manager and offer him a copy of your letter to SOA.

Try a search for "FWD fuse" for more posts on this subject. There are a couple of longer threads with some good theory.

We may be onto something here. Check your air cleaner assembly, on the underside between the air filter and the trottle body is a tube/hose that, if disconnected, will cause exactly what you describe as far as crank, sputter, crank and then gasoline smell. Your TS could be the cause but this would be the first thing I'd check. <edit> I just searched back through my older posts for the reason I suggested the above fix: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19002