Suzam

True, I guess all 4 wheels is still the way to go. Any place I should shop for the best prices? Thanks again Nipper

Thanks for the good reading Nipper, looks like ceramic rear pads. Now I want to change out the fronts too! Guess I'll just wait until they need replacement.:-\

Do ceramic pads reduce the life of the rotors more than metalic pads?

I'm in need of some back disk pads for the new to me 97 Legacy Wagon I just picked up and need some advice/opinion on where to get some. The rotors are in good shape so what type and brand should I be looking for? Subaru? NAPA? Autozone? Internet? Also, semi-metalics, ceramic or some other type? It's a go to work car, not a road racer, so I'm not really looking for ultimate performance. Just good service.

I feel your pain having just lost our 95 a couple of weeks ago. Tell your GF not to mess with anything involving the neck and back, use the accident insurance to get FULLY checked out. Some injuries can remain hidden under muscle pain and the sooner diagnosed the better. Best of luck, man.

The thing is they just had it on the back lot. $5200 when I quized the sales rep, but I know there is a lot of wiggle room. I figure to make it right I'd have to put at least $1200-1500 within the next 6 months. they might have discounted a new purchase $2500 on trade. I think it's been there a few weeks and I figure the wholesale dealer might give them $2500-2700 for it as-is, but I'm not sure.

I found a MY97 Legacy L Wagon with 115K at a Subie dealership as a trade-in. This will be a replacement for Lil' Blue (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77293 ). Body has 1 or 2 minor dents but over all VG. Took it to my mechanic and here's a short list: Windshield crack - needs replacement. 1 Valve cover - minor leak. 1 to 2 cams seals - minor leak. Rear struts are "weak" will need to be replace but not right away. Outer CV boot on Driver's side shows loose clamp with slight grease leak. Tires are BF Goodrich Touring 60% tread left that show slight feathering on front. Rear brakes close to done. The AC delivered 44°F at the vents in 92° outside temp. The 2.2 runs smooth and the car appears to have been garaged it's whole life. Inside is clean and no worn seats, but the sunvisor materal is ripped on the DS. I ran it hard to the redline and braked from about 70 mph HARD and the ABS performed as expected without any complaints. Np torque issues either!!! I ran a Carfax and its a 1 owner and was purchased and serviced at this dealer until 68K. So, any opinon on how much to negotiate for price-wise? I know the dealer will most likly wholesale the car, so if I knew what the BLACK BOOK wholesale value was I could work from there. I have the car until tomorrow when I take it back and talk "turkey". EDIT: I know I have 5K until 120K for a timing belt and other scheduled maintainence.

Check http://www.cars101.com and see if the info you need is there.

Mechanics, the head on the MY96 2.5 were different than previous or post years. I'll see if I can find out what it was... in the interum, anyone else know the difference? EDIT: so far on cars101 for the MY 96: 2.5 Liter 155 hp, dual overhead cam, sequential multi-port fuel injected engine (new for 1996) and the MY97: New: 2.5 L now has 165 hp on regular unleaded gas instead of 1996's 155 hp on premium fuel.

As far as I know the only non-turbo Subaru engines that recommend premium are the MY96 2.5, and the 3.0L sixes and maybe the new 3.6L in the Tribeca. Carbon doesn't effect compression as much as cause heat retention (think pre-ignition or knock) and intake and exaust flow around the valves.

I'd go with the Michelins, they do tend to get noisey as they wear. Seems they have softer rubber for the first 50-60% then a harder compound which makes more noise. But 60,000+ miles outweigh that IMO.

Silly question: Did you use a brake cleaner on the new rotors? Unless you did you could be having pad slippage from the anti-rust coating on the rotors. Although it should wear off within a short period of time depending on how far and how much use they get.

Sounds like 1/2 a virgin!!! :grin:

Thanks, I think I know most of the pitfalls. What I'm looking at this point is an Impreza or Legacy between 95-99 with a 2.2 Thanks Nipper!

That's the kind of info I'm looking for, I figured as much. Our MY01 Outback knocks occasionally on the recomended regular octane. If anyone else has some real time experience with this engine and regular fuel I'd like to hear about it before I go looking at the car. Thanks!

I think it was in the owners manual and http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html#1996%20Outback There was a change in the heads, I belive, for that year which increased the compression. Then it was revised again for the next year's 2.5 Again, it was a "recommendation" from SOA. So I really wonder what, if any, issues would occur if regular was used.

That's kind of why I'm asking too.

I'm considering looking at a MY96 2.5 LSi wagon. I know that was the year for preminum fuel, but is it really needed? I'm looking to replace our wrecked MY 95 L 2.2 for my daughter and I know she won't want to pony up the $$$ for preminum, let alone remember to buy it and not regular grade.

Thanks for these 2 finds. I'm heading up to New England this weekend, I want to try and hook up with the North Jersey guy and take a look-see.

I need to replace our wrecked 95 Legacy. See my previous thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77293 in case you missed it. I found a (don't yell at me) 95 Camry to quickly replace it so my daughter has a vehicle untill i can find another suitable Subaru. The owner is a friend of a friend of a friend offering it to me at a good price for a what I'm considering a temporary replacement. VIN #: JT2SK12E7S0294560 Any help appreciated. I still have 2 Subies in the stalls even with an added Toyota.

Well, since it happen on Friday and I haven't talk to the insurance company to see if they agree with my assesment. I MAY be putting it on the market. I like to think that this car will live on in some way. However, I need to replace the car fairly quickly, within a couple of weeks so I'm looking around for a replacement. I'll keep you posted on availability as soon as I figure out what I am doing, the replacement might be a Subie in need of a part or 2.

Thanks for the thoughts and yes we are counting our blessings. It was Friday the 13th after all! The way the flatbed dropped the car wasn't the way I wanted it in the driveway. I started it up and turned it around so I could cover it temporarily from the weather. It complained a little but the engine ran quietly. The front tire is rubbing on the inner plastic but it still did ok after all that. A real little champ.

Just so you know first off, no one was hurt. The young one borrowed the car for the weekend and was in the city last night when another car ran in front of her at the intersection. 2 air bags later... (see attachments, if they worked) The radiator was pushed against the engine which itself seem to be pushed back. Nobody hit the windshield, the passenger side airbag did that damage plus k/o'ed the rear view mirror. I guess we know that 12+ year old airbags still deploy. Unfortunatly at 160,000 miles I think we're done.

Is this a dealer or private sale. Private sale could mean all receipts available for a history which is worth it's weight in gold. Otherwise, check for tourque bind by driving in a tight circle clockwise and counterclockwise and make sure there is no fuse in the FWD socket under the hood and dirty or discolored antifreeze fluid in the radiator overflow bottle for indication of a blown headgasket are 2 that come to mind right away.

I had the passenger side one melt on our MY95 Legacy L. I think the blade of the bulb slid blow the "C" shaped plug and had contact only on the outer edges causing resistance heat. I replaced the whole plug with this aftermarket plug. A NOKYA model NOK9101 plug, you can google for a retailer. Just remember to slide the rubber boot over the new wires before splicing, I didn't and ended up splitting the boot while I tried to stretch it over the splice.