Suzam

Yes they will fit without clearance issues. If they come with tires make sure they are all within .25 inch cIrcumference.

Did the lock work after the window was replaced? If I read this correctly the same door had the glass replaced, so I'm thinking that the installer hit the lock and knocked someting off. I'd have them look at it for you if all of the above is true.

AAA offers glass service if you're a member. Might be worth a check.

Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before you attempt to remove the alternator. Also pay attention to the amount of play in the drive belt before you loosen it. That will give you an idea of how tight to make it on the install. You don't want to overtighten it. Oh yeah... don't forget to reconnect the battery afterwards!

You can unplug the ABS unit ***but be aware that this will disable it***. But it may not be working at the moment anyway. At least that way your battery won't go dead until you figure it out.

Yeah that works until the darn thing gets to the otherside and turns around in a panic and runs BACK in front of you.

Maybe you should have bought the concrete bridge wall deterrent things too.:-\ Sorry about your ride.

Someone else may have a better diagnosis but I have a similar issue with an automatic and a new coolant temperature sensor solve my problem.

Good thing you never drove the 1963 Chevy BelAir I had for a while. The fuel gauge bounced all over the place. Turn a corner hard or accelerate fast and it would swing toward E. Slam the brakes and it headed towards "F" then back down again.

Cougar brings up a good point. Do you smell gasoline vapors? How about your exhaust, does it smell rich or different in some way? (please don't suck in too many fumes! Carbon Monoxide is poisonous!)

So how many miles did you go on 12 gallons?????

Yep, what 2X2KOB said. That's where mine was in the MY01 You may have to fish your hand deep in between the inner framework and the quarterpanel, but it should be there. I don't remember if mine was taped in place or not.

I read this post over and still haven't seen a conformation of your actual gas milage. The MY95 Legacy I had used to be on "E" by the time I hit 220 miles on the trip odometer. I could bearly fit over 8 gallons into the tank, so I was still getting almost 26 MPG. You can not trust the movment of the needle alone for MPG. Confirm your gas milage by driving say 100 miles and filling the tank so you know for sure. Or at least tell us how many miles for how many gallons of gas you are getting.

I did copy the correct first images you provided before the images started to rotate. i keep looking at the different images, some are interesting. Thanks Again!

Is it me or are the images in WAWalkers reply changing everytime I refresh my browser???

Thanks to WAWalker for the info. I will check the connector out tonight with a volt meter to make sure there isn't any voltage before I plug in the jumper to ground. If I am successful, I'll need a source for the codes to see what's up. I must have looked like an idiot trying to get the original handshake to work. My neighbor came over and casually asked what I was doing, while I was sitting there shifing the car and turning the key off and on and cursing mildly. His suggestion was that "Maybe you're doing it wrong!":grin: He's ALWAYS been full of helpful info...

I did check for TB... no problems. I even found a place to do figure 8's backwards.

OK the other morning I started up our MY97 Legacy Wagon and was adjusting the mirrors when I "thought" I saw the AT TEMP light flash. Must have caught the last one because it didn't do it again. I searched for the TCU Handshake to pull the codes: 1) Warm up the engine 2) Turn the ignition switch OFF 3) Turn the ignition switch ON 4) Start the engine 5) Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH 6) Stop the vehicle 7) Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1" 8) Turn the ignition switch to OFF 9) Turn the ignition switch to ON 10) Move the gear selector to "2" 11) Move the gear selector to "1" 12) Move the gear selector to "2" 13) Move the gear selector to "3" 14) Move the gear selector to "D" Now examine the AT Oil Temp light again: If the light's blinking 4 times a second, then the problem is most likely a power supply or ground problem. If the light's blinking 2 times a second, then the TCM believes all is normal. If the light's on solid or not on at all, then there's a problem with the light's circuit. But I couldn't get it to reveal it's secrets to me. Now this AM it did flash at me. I still can't get it to tell me what it's problem is. Can anyone confirm this is the proper proceedure for a MY97? Has anyone done this and is there any trick to it? After all this is said and done where is a good source for the definition of the codes, ASSUMING I get them?

Thanks Skip & Nipper, Hope it is that easy, otherwise I'm thinking I'll be under the dashboard looking for something else broken. Seem like it didn't take much to have this happen. I've had wipers frozen to the whindshield that took more force to break loose than what she did by snapping it while they are in motion.

Got a call this AM from the wife. She was washing the windshield on our MY01 Outback and there was a leaf stuck under the blade. She reached out to snap the arm up a little to disloge the ofending tree by-product as the arm reached it's apex and it stopped moving. She physically moved it back down (no resistance) and now it just jerks slightly while the passenger side works fine. Anybody knwo if this is a possible minor fix? I hope it's just a pivot ball or something similar that needs reattaching and not a broken mechanisum, and if so, would I be looking under the dashboard on in the engine compartment? I'm really not familiar with the mechanics of the setup.

If you can't spin it at all then the e-brake is still on or hung up. https://shop.integratedperformancellc.com/images/1170813804457-1391044520.jpeg See the attachment.

If the door appears to be aligned and you don't have any problems shutting it, or wind noise, I'd hot glue a piece of thin plastic (or maybe just a thick drop if glue) on the door opposite the switch for a better push in of the plunger.

15" (38 Cm)

You can try seaching the board for "starter contacts" and find a few other posts like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75175&highlight=starter+contacts This may be your problem, and is an easy fix if you are a little handy mechanically.

Might be loose, because it shouldn't leak. If you want to tighten it be careful! It's designed to snap at the head if over tightened. It's only a plastic piece after all. If you wait until the engine is cooled down, park the car nose up if possible then back it out and make sure there isn't any dirt where the flat washer comes in contact with the radiator. Then tighten it snug but don't over tighten it (I speak from experience).