Suzam

Actually, I read the opposite!

I'm 99% sure that your manual says to check and fill. It really doesn't say to replace the power steering fluid. However you can do the turkey baster trick and drain out as much as you can and refill it. Then later do again, and then again. You'll change out a lot of the old fluid that way. As others have stated, use an old one and not the thankgiving baster!

This is good to know, next time I'm in the parts department I'll pick up one for each of my Subies. "An ounce of prevention....."

If I read your post right, and your just changing the belts not replacing the alternator, there is no reason to remove the alternator bolts, just loosen them so it moves freely.

No, as long as all 4 wheels are off the ground it will not hurt the AWD. One of my Subies was on a lift when we were trying to track down a loose heat shield. It's pretty impressive seeing all 4 wheels spinning while up in the air like that. As far as the noise goes, does it change at all when applying the breaks? Also try pulling up gently on the e-brake while at low speed to see if it has any effect.

No, the purpose of the fuse is to fully energize the duty c solenoid which disables the AWD by disengaging the clutch packs. That's why you can drive on a spare donut tire AND why tourque bind goes away when there is a fuse inserted in the FWD socket. So a disconnected battery would be the same as a connected battery when towed on 2 wheels. You may have gotten lucky on the one car and not caused enough immediate damage to the clutches, but they may have suffered enough to shorten the life of them in the future.

If the car has wheel covers on steel rims try removing them and driving around. I had a shush-shush type noise that drove me crazy until I tried that. Near as I can figure the plastic cover was rubbing ever so slightly on the side wall of the tire or at a balance weight or on a valve stem. Putting them back on and making sure the stem was centered in the detent opening for the valves stopped my noise.

I replaced the one in my 95 a while back. Since the plug has 2 vertical and 1 horizontal blade if you look at the old plug (or the passenger side one) it's fairly easy to tell which wire goes to which blade, then you know which of the new colors go by matching the blade positions.

Unless you need winter tires, I'd sell the WRX wheels. Look on ebay for similar sales. Most go for $250-350 + shipping (which can add another $100). You could try an ad on Craig's list for pick up or delivery in you local area.

The only manditory items are oil and filter, spark plugs & wires and coolant change, other items like transmission, gear oils etc. are inspect and service as needed. Most of these things can be done by you, if your handy, in a couple of hours. So the cost would be minimal, or you could call a dealer and ask for a price on the manditory things.

I'm not sure what your manual says but try this link at cars101.com and see if it's the same procedure. Let us know how you make out.

If you can find a hollow pipe long enough to get leverage on the bent end of the pin and twist it loose. I'm guessing the pin is hanging straight down and won't move or turn at all?

Yep sure is, unoffically. If you search it you'll see that almost all the problems involve owners who were unaware of the switch until they clean the car or dashboard and found out here that it was there an what it did. Once you know what it's for your virginity is gone.:cool:

A private sale you buy the car as-is. Dealer cars should offer some sort of warranty, that sould cover any kind of abuse or neglect, including the AWD system for torque bind that might appear soon after purchase. Also dealers tend to change out all the fluids if you ask them to, unless they say it was done (ask for proof). You can work that into the deal. Ask the dealer for a CARFAX. Since you are basically looking at the same body style model, a newer, lower mileage car is desirable.

Check the SIMILAR THREADS at the bottom of the page.

By your description, if it just "clicks" and the starter doesn't spin then you might need new starter contacts. You can do a seach and find pictures and a description of how to replace them. Or if you don't want to tackle them, get a rebuilt starter which is easy to install yourself.

In the early to mid 70's I remember there was an aftermarket water injecion system designed to stop the engines of that era from octane ping and knock as well as run-on or dieseling after being shut off. It was mostly because of unleaded fuels (1975 and newer cars) and new polution equipment, which at that time, was bolt on stuff to the exsisting engines, EGR and air pumps along with a ton of vacuum lines, etc. It consisted of a water bottle, small pump that was hooked to a switch and rubber hose with a couple of different size nozzles. You drilled a hole in the air cleaner top over the carb and use the size nozzle for a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. As I recall you were supposed to use distilled water as well.

So...your wife's related to MacGyver?

I know I enjoy a good "gruntle" every now and then!!!

EVOthis, Which JY did you go to? Is it near Kennett Square? Wilmington is a stone's throw. Edit: And Yes, I am talking about the belt tensioner pully for the AC.

I was checking under the hood of my 97 Legacy 2.2 and noticed that the AC idler pully is making a slight squeeking/scratching noise that comes and goes. Sounds like it need lubrication. Before I start pulling it apart, can they be lubed and if so with what? Or do I need to replace it? TIA

I'm 6'3" and weigh 240+ lbs. The Outbacks we have are comfortable for me although a little more lateral space at the knees would be nice. The WRX and Impreza seats grab me too much on the sides. How long do you plan on keeping the car and how many miles per year will you put on it? Kids grow (mine did anyway) and also multiply and in a couple of years you might be looking at a B9 Tribeca for size if you go smaller now. If you put tons of mileage then go with what you like best now. If not I'd shop for the future. If you will need 2 cars you can always keep whatever you get now and go larger with an additional car.

I had a MY95 2.2 Legacy AWD sedan that got 22-23 avarage mixed and 28-29 on the highway on trips of 300+ miles at one shot. I now have MY97 Legacy Wagon 2.2 that gets about the same (22-23) mixed average altought I haven't had it on a long trip yet. Our MY01 & MY98 2.5 Outbacks gets about 5-10% less than the 2.2's do, closer on the highway, farther apart on the mixed/local driving. In the WINTER it drops 10% on all of them!!! When the wife or daughter drive the MPG drops. I always get at least 1 MPG better than they do.

Congrats! Hope your wife lets you drive it every now and then.

Maintainence isn't really a way of stopping the head gasket from blowing out on the 2.5L. The problem is design of the head and gaskets although a well maintained car is nicer anyway. If the one you are looking at hasn't had a problem yet, it's getting into the age and mileage range where it may go out. Most anyone here will tell you "it's not if, but when". We have a MY98 with 120K on it and I'm trying to keep an eye on it for symptoms like oil and/or bubbles in the overflow, unexplained overheating on the highway and the heater to stop working. You could look for a manual tranny Outback with a 2.2 from that year, I'd feel much better with that setup than a 2.5, but if you have your heart set on it, put some cash aside for a headgasket job in the future. Just for insurance.