Suzam

If you look at pictures of the gate it shows that the lower half is not covering the backs of the rear seat. This allows the seats to be folded forward creating a pass-through of the lower half. Any cargo higher than the bottom of the fence part means it won't slide. Here is a stock picture.

For now I would ignore the O2 sensor codes. I would disconnect the battery to reset the ECU since you now have all codes read. Drive another car to the dealer and buy a Coolant Temperature Sensor, go back to the car and replace it, then reconnect the battery and see if you still have the hesitation problem. This is the easiest (cheapest) way to start eliminating any possible problem and in my opinion the best place to start. Just my 2 cents.

What's the year, model and mileage of the car?

It's possible that the O2 sensor needs replacement at 123k but they usually throw a CEL if they are that bad. I had one that would clear its CEL after a day or so and not show up again for months. The car ran fine and unless your MPG has dropped it's most likely still functioning. Don't know about the ECU, but like Josh just said, $20 for a CTS and a couple of minutes with a wrench may cure all you symptoms.

No a CTS doesn't always throw a code when going bad. I had an idle problem on a 2.2 that never had a code but a new sensor cured the issue. I'd try replacing that first.

If you are saying that the front turn signals flash is bright and not dull like the parking light wattage, I'd change out the bulbs with new ones to make sure your bulbs are good before going any further.

And don't be fooled by the "purified" air they are selling. it's not true country-air but plain old city air that's been filtered.

Try a search on the board using the keywords "battery disconnect flashing alarm" and see some of the answers for the problem you are having. You can also try http://www.cars.101.com

Also look at your crank pulley and make sure it's not not loose and contacting the front timing belt cover. The rubber insert in between the pulley and harmonic balancer may be staring to come apart causing the pulley to rub when the rpm's go up. I had one do that on our MY01. -Sam

Ask if the themostat was changed and if it was, did they install a genuine Subaru thermostat? What you described could be the symptoms of an after market thermostat.

Did you ever change the t-stat? Since it really hasn't "overheated" per sey and only gone up about 3/4 on the gauge then my money is still on the t-stat. An OEM should solve your problem. I had the same symptoms on a MY97 2.2 with the aftermarket in it. Idled fine and ran locally ok with a needle width below 1/2, but would creep up on the highway to 3/4 then move around a little then back down again. After a drive check your lower radiator hose, bet you find it's stone cold, or at least a lot cooler than the top one. That's what happened to mine until I replaced the t-stat.

Did you happen to change out the thermostat? If you did was it a genuine Subaru or aftermarket one? I had an aftermarket that had similar issue. An OEM one fixed the problem.

Yeah that's a bit high with mechanical issues. I bought a 97 Legacy with a 2.2 and 116k for $3600 and I only paid that much because the car was in what I considered excellent shape. It was well taken care of and I only had to do the 120k maintenance.

That would eliminate a rear issue even if it is an LSD.

OK it all makes sense now, I couldn't figure it out until the self heating part came into play. So even though it was Cougar's original Nipper gets a nod as well. Good Job everyone!

OK Nipper, I challenge that statement. Why would the fuel be warmer than the air in the tank? The ambient temperature should keep both relatively the same give or take. Besides underground tank fuel is around 54° for the most part, so your light would go off in warmer weather if you fill up with cooler fuel? I know you quantified your explanation with the "I think" sooooo, please enlighten us, oh great purveyor of knowledge.

I agree with Cougar, that model was made to run hard, a more stock version would be a better consideration for a daily driver.

I used the Chevron's Techron gas additive to help with a lazy gas needle so it may help with the warning light too, although I don't recall ever hearing of one coming on as early as yours. Pick a couple of bottles up at Walmart or Pep Boys. It would be worth a try for a few tanks. Beats starting to pull things apart.

Congrats! Enjoy your "new" car! With all the successful conversions I think I may try it myself some day. Hopefully thinking to resurrect a Subie before it goes to the parts yard for no other reason than a bad motor.

Just make sure that it's AWD. 1995 was the last year of the Subaru's to offer FWD and AWD in the Legacy. You could end up not getting AWD if you're not careful.

Keep it running, some of what you mention is scheduled maintenance like timing belts etc. If you get another car you'd be looking at repeat cycle of same costs for maintenance again. And possibly replacement of similar parts. You already decided that the car was worth the investment when you did those repairs. If you trust the car in its current condition, I'd drive it until it gives you a real repair bill that exceeds the total value or at a point where you feel it is no longer reliable transportation.

If it's a 97 I think you have square cutouts in the bumper cover? This style was on the 95-97 MY after that they were the oblong ones. Round lights will not fit but ebay sometimes has the sqaure fog light like these shown and there are DM projector ones fit also. I lucked out and found a NIB set on ebay for our M97 wagon that came complete with wires, switch and relays for $50. It came with the stock brackets too. That made the install simple, took me about 1 hour to install. Adjusting was a pain because I set them them higher than they should be and had to adjust the aim a couple of times (too low and you reflect off wet pavement).

My old 95 Legacy used to do it all the time. A couple of years ago there was a couple of threads about that era model shaking the open windows it was so bad. What RPMs at idle do you have for neutral and in drive now? I'm not sure if you're having the same problem but if no mechanical solution presents itself other than a tune up or checking the TPS, knock sensor or coolant temp sensor you may have to just live with it.

Burp the system first to make sure there is no air bubble. +1 on the thermostat, if you're going that route, get a genuine Subaru replacement. Radiator cap is cheap and should be replaced also.

About 4 years ago when my wife was warming up our '01 OB wagon while she cleaned off the ice and snow in 12° weather. When she got in the car she smelled gasoline fumes coming in the vents. I went out and popped the hood and found gas dripping from the fuel line on the driver's side above the cylinder bank. There is a short piece of fuel line between the 2 metal lines that has 2 hose clamps, just above center of the 2 cylinders, the inner one was dripping about 1 drop every 3-4 seconds, there was a puddle on top of the cylinders that quickly evaporated after I tightened the clamp. I double checked the rest and found that another on on the other side needed a quick snugging of about 1/2 turn with a phillips driver. You can see the line and clamps I tightened if you click here.