Suzam

Don't forget to BURP the system to remove all air after you work on the sytem.

The '00-'04 don't suffer from the ghostwalking phenomenon that seems to be showing up in the '05 and later models. The '00 should be a great donor car for the '01, any differences in the trans swap should be simple. I believe the flywheels are different, otherewise most all else is just plug and play.

+1, take it to the best body shop you know of and have them give it the once over it will be on the other driver's insurance anyway. There may be damage to the body or frame you can't see.

I think not, I remember when I was looking for one for my 2001 a friend had an older one from his 1997 and when i got mine it was different. Check one of the online places like etrailers.com or hiddenhitch.com and see if the numbers between the years match.

That's the reason for OEM, the T-Stat is made to open up at the proper time. The biggest problem with aftermarket is a wide variation in the temp of the coolant. The OEM keeps it at a much more constant temp and opens up sooner to avoid high spikes when heat is building up.. So what is going on now? Do you did get it burped properly?

How many miles are on the car? Sounds like the alternator has issues. Try checking the electrical connections to the battery and the grounds. If everything looks OK have the alternator checked out.

Sorry to hear about that. Hope you all feel ok tomorrow. I know how that can happen, feeling ok tonight but hard to move next day. Hot tub soak or jacuzzi soak is in order.

Typical headgasket overheats at speed or under load and spews steam and coolant out the overflow tank. Look at some of the post on the board and you'll see the symptoms. You could have a bad sensor or connection that is causing the problem, I believe there are 2 sensors- one that goes to the ECU and one that signals the gauge. Others here can confirm this and give you their locations.

Replace the t-stat with Subaru part and burp the system. When you say overheats, except for the temp gauge what other symptoms lead you to that conclusion? Any hot fluid in the reservoir or is it consistent? Both top and bottom hoses hot? I'd also check the wire connection for the temp sensor and gauge to make sure it's not giving false readings.

Good call. I'd spend money on a new battery, shop around tonight online and pick it up or have it installed tomorrow, you're on borrowed time until it does it again. I just replace my 2001 Outback battery with a manufactured date of 5/2000. It wasn't so much dead as the case cracked. At 11 years old that battery doesn't owe you anything, it gave you its all.

I would still check the battery and cables first to make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals. How old is the battery? Oh, and welcome to the board. Be sure to keep us updated on you progress.

These headgaskets suffered the external seepage of coolant, mostly on the underside of the driver's side. Also my mechanic has seen 3 leak oil on the top passenger side (including my 2001). Neither of these is an engine destroyer on their own as long as you maintain the fluid levels.

I didn't see anyone ask but, was the t-stat replacement a genuine subaru t-stat? If not consider installing one before you blame the headgaskets.

The transfer case in 1st or reverse provides 50/50 AWD no matter what. Also did you check for a fuse in the FWD socket under the hood near the firewall on the passenger side? Could be one in there and the FWD light on the dash was disabled.

Here' a theory/question, I have a 2001 LTD Wagon and I know at least one sunroof drain is clogged, I just can't find them and I've even looked at night with a flash light (if someone can tell me exactly where and what to look for, on both ends please send my the info.) ANYWAY... after a soaking rain the water collects in the roof liner then, (unless there is an amazing amount that floods the rear cargo area beforehand) it pours out the center seatbelt shoulder harness hole in the roof when I drive around. MY QUESTION: If the car is on a correct angle could the water flow back and down the wire bundle tube leading into the rear hatch from the roof liner?

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html The bottom chart on the page covers your year.

One of the last times I was at a dealership was in 2009 and there was a copy of a TSB posted on the bulletin board in the service & parts area explaning that the coolant should be use in ALL coolant flushes including the current models. It was dated in 2008. I thought the warranty covered 2000 to late 2002 which covered some early production models of 2003. This maybe incorrect but the best way to find out is contact the dealer and ask what model years and production dates are covered. One thing I do know is, if under warranty, the additive must have a record for proof of being installed to be covered.

Welcome to the board. The sealant was a fix Subaru provided for the external leaks that 2000 thru 2003 head gaskets experience. It extended the warranty on leaks to 10 years or 100,000 miles. If you have it put in at each flush you should be good to go. You can do a search here using the search feature at the top with the keywords "coolant additive" for more info or look at the bottom of this thread page for similar threads.

+1 on tightening. I had one stop a few year ago. Since the metal is relatively soft a good snugging down should fix it. Mine is still working fine even with snow and ice.

Good Luck finding the holder on a manual transmission, they don't have one. Plus I like reading an old post and seeing something I posted and not remember doing it. Age related?

100K or 10 years ... IF you can document the Subaru coolant additive was put in by a dealer. Not sure but maybe at each coolant change also. With it being that close to 100K I would get to a dealer ASAP for conformation and documentation by the service department.

This cound be the emission feature on Subies. I notice it more on the 2.2 than the 2.5, but the transmission will wait until it hits a certain temp in cold weather before allowing the toque converter to lock up, forcing the engine revs higher for a faster warm up to operation temperature. If if behaves correctly in warmer weather or when it's started again after a slight cool down then this is most likely what you're experiencing.

Is he sure it's just the Duty C? If the dealer installs his part and it doesn't fix the problem he's out the part and cost of install with no guarantee/warranty on fixing the problem.

When you say the alternator is "new" was it a rebuilt unit? If so it could be bad and needs to be replaced. Also check the belt tension.

I've installed OEM driving lights on a 95 and 97 and unless there is a problem in the wiring at the gray junction box next to the kick plate on the driver's side then I'd say NO they don't seem related. Have you checked the H1 bulbs in the lights themselves? If they are OK then trace the wire coming though the firewall. As I recall there is one plug near the steering column and another that plugs into the relay attached to the gray box I mentioned. There are also 2 wires that as I recall are yellow and blue striped that need to be vampire clipped to 2 wires also near that gray box. If you need it I might be able to find the original wiring instructions for the lights. As for your other problem, check the plunger switches in the door frames for a bad/broken switch for the dome lights.