Suzam

You are correct the white goes to the relay. I take it your white wire is cut off? My old wires have it going to a 4 pin plug on top of the relay. There is 2 black/white heavier wires off one pin and a red/yellow and a white/black off the other 2 on that plug also.

Just sent you 4 scans, hope they help! Let us know how you make out.

Shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll email you scans of an original install sheet which should clear up your wire questions.

The was a Verizon building I would park next to occasionally that was an old telephone switching building. Whatever they had inside would not allow me to use the remote until I was almost touching the hood of my car. Interference RF can most definitely create a dampening field. You should research the area and see if you could at least track down a source, and let us know what you find.

I'm curious, have you tried the "virgin switch" on the top of the steering column to see if they work with it switched on?

Which one or will both work correctly in a 97 Legacy L?

WELCOME TO THE BOARD! Have you tried tire rotation to see if it helps or changes the problem? Warped rotors can cause vibration and shaking also. Does it vibrate when the brakes are applied? Also a weak front strut could cause a problem with a slightly out of balance tire. You didn't note the mileage, but it could be a badly worn steering parts as diagnosed.

I had a tire that made that kind of noise because a belt pulled loose inside the tire. It was a squishing kind of rubbery sound like walking in a wet sneaker on tile flooring. Do you notice any vibration at speed or side wiggle while driving slowly when you hear it?

You need to remove the entire panel because the switches are attached from the back. There are screws in the armrest and in the recess behind the handle that are behind plug covers. Then carefully pop the fasteners at the bottom and open side on the door. Then slowly pull away from the bottom of the door frame. Then slide it off the inside door handle and lift straight up. It is kind of hanging on a lip at the top of the panel at the bottom of the window opening. Be careful not to pull too aggressively on the panel because you can pull the fasteners out of the panel, you want them to stay attached to it and not stay in the door, so try to pull near each one and don't just yank the panel. Also be mindful of the wiring for the switches, there is a little bit of length in the wire to the plug so you can reach in and disconnect it.

The sensor is only about $30 can be replaced without too much trouble. Unless you really have a use for the scanner, I'd just replace the sensor.

White smoke could be a bad PVC. But that might be the least or your problems. :-\ My daughter's 97 2.2 has piston slap, but it's the typical one that decreases as it warms up it's not a knock.

@jenson0510 that's pretty good for a high mileage Subie! 21mpg for short "cold engine" trips is about right. I have a 97 2.2 that gets around 23 and a 01 2.5 that gets 21 if we drive it around town. If we go father they both jump up to 23-25. Highway gets better than that 2.5 = 28mpg & 2.2 = 30mpg. If we go on looooong trips (400-500 mile in one shot) 2.5 = 29-30 & 2.2 jumps to 32+mpg.

+1 on the engine swap. Even though the 2.2 is a very reliable engine, with that much mileage better to find a motor to drop in for reliability. The parts in the engine block are getting tired.

+1 ON Trans mount, U-joint, CV joint or even a loose or broken dog bone could cause this. Get the car inspected by a mechanic who can put it on a lift to check it out by applying the brakes while in reverse. Shouldn't be too hard to diagnose.

I would ask the dealer to supply the proper master key for your car unless they told you up front it would be extra. They should make good on it or at least give it to you at a substantial discount. Doesn't hurt to ask. Gently remind them you'll be back for maintenance and mechanical repairs. They make money on those things.

No, 15 inch wheels will not clear the brake calipers. You can use any 16 inch wheels from an Outback, GT, WRX or you could look for some steel wheels of they are for "go" and not "show". Oh yeah, WELCOME TO THE BOARD!!!!

If hey look ok when they are wet, you could try a clear acrylic spray to fill in the damage, might have to reapply every year or so as this would be quick fix.

Most alignments per se aren't dependant on the tires as much as the wheels themselves. Having said that I would want the setup to be as close to what it will be after the alignment. Rotation balancing and/or new tires install should be done first then the alignment. I have a deal at a tire center near me that offers, for a price, unlimited alignments and rotation during a specific period of time 1, 2 or 4 years. I usually get it done at least every year after winter, but if I feel I've hit a curb or pothole I'd do it earlier. The printout from the computer after alignment has almost always said I was still in spec with minor tweeks so I guess I am overkilling it a bit. However it would depend on the conditions you are experiencing in your driving area. Off roading would warrant more alignments.

YOU did.

A good question is what the general condition of the vehicle is. Tires & suspension will play a part. Is this new or did you just notice this?

How many miles on the engine? Have you checked the radiator fans to make sure the are coming on? Could be the radiator or water pump also.

That's what happens when a post over a year old gets resurrected.

Sounds like it might be an electrical problem. Does it have the original alternator? How old is the battery? These are the first things I'd have checked out. Oh yeah, Welcome to the board!!!!

+1 on the rotors, I have the same issue with a MY02 Outback. This will be the 2nd set if rotors and I'm going to put these on myself when the weather breaks (get cooler). Front rotors vibrate the steering wheel, rear rotors you feel in the seat of your pants. There are two reasons they do this: one is warpage, the second is a build up of brake materials from the pads on the rotor surface. You can try having them trued by a shop if they have enough thickness, but if it warped, I would just replace them.

Press and depress are the same as far as I'm concerned. The front signal has 2 bulbs, 1 double and 1 single filament if I recall without looking. The double is on dim filament with lights and both flash for the turn-signal. Turn on the 4-way emergency flashers and compare the left and right to see if there is any difference. Maybe a visual comparison will reveal a problem. Does the rapid flash happen with the regular lights on and off or is there a difference in speed when you have them on or off? If all else fails, buy some replacement bulbs and swap them all out.