Suzam

Yes, you can have up to 4 remotes programmed for 1 car. It's a first in first out system. If you program in a 5th one the 1st goes away, and so on. Also I believe if you program 1 remote 4 times it wipes all the others out, so only enter each remote once. In the program instructions there is also a step for programming more than one fob at at time.

Either of those remotes will work. I just got an all gray button one from ebay ($15) for my daughter's '99 Outback which was exactly the same one for our '01 Outback. Ebay usually list the models and year that work. Just make sure it's a Subaru remote, BMW also used them and from what I've read the Subaru version doesn't always work the BMW's even if the part number was the same, so it may be true in reverse. Programming was easy too from the cars.101 instructions. UPDATE: I just did a search for "2000 subaru outback remote" and got plenty of hits for OEM remotes.

Since there is a rear drive transmission (and no transaxle) the engine can sit back and lower. There would be no room for AWD with this setup.

If the fluid level is correct, I'd be wary of a long trip.

Make sure the handle is in the most forward position before you unlock the hatch. I had a 98 that you had to help the handle return to the forward spot before you could pull it back and lift the gate. It was caused by the common rust issue that's been discussed here before. As long as I moved it forward it was fine.

Whatever you choose, monitor the tread wear from center to outer edges of the tire. If you're wearing out the center faster, then your contact patch is smaller than the tread width. Ideal pressure for the tire would be even wear across the tread for the life of the tire. Over inflate too much and you loose more of the contact patch which is surprisingly small to begin with.

I have friends in Colorado just outside of Denver who routinely drive between 5,000 and 10,000 ft altitude. They use Michelin tires from Costco inflated with nitrogen on a Tribeca and run 32/30 front to back in the winter and 36/34 in the summer. The tread does wear quicker in the center because of "over" inflation but not really noticeable until the end of the tread life. They have close to 200k on the car now and have done this since new. They do raise the rear pressure 2lb when they carry more people or cargo for any distance. In Colorado, it seems like everything is a good distance from everything else. It seems like every time you get in the car you have to travel 50 one way miles just to get to were you want to go. At least that's how I feel when we visit.

It's not so much brand as circumference of the tires that's important. Subarus need no more than 1/4" difference to be sure no damage is done to the AWD system. Use the search here and you'll find a lot of info on tire matching. Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or is it more seat of the pants. If it's in the wheel you problem is in the front.

Anyone who wants to wire a OEM Subaru fog light on a late MY94 thru 97 Legacy can use this original instruction sheet for the wiring hook-up. Apparently you can't add a PDF file, so I've attached the jpeg files for all 4 pages.

I sent you a PM with my email address. Let me know if you don't get it. If I figure out how to get a file posted in the manuals section I will submit it.

PM (private message) me, I have scans of the original installation instructions that came with OEM Subaru fog lights for the 95-97 model years.

No news may be good news. I haven't seen much posted here about complaints of the H6. More about owners worrying about the timing chains which seems to be a non-issue. So now you're just looking at its general overall condition.

Model year, engine size and mileage please. With your current description, a broken T-Belt is a possibility and depending on the year that can mean disaster.

Just to clarify: When you say it won't turn over do you mean NO mechanical motion or engine cranks but does not fire up and run?

Anybody have a carfax account? I'd like to get a report on a 1999 Outback my daughter is looking to buy. 4S3BG6851X7606058 PM me a description or even better a pdf or screen capture of the report if possible. TIA

Not that I'm aware of, however I don't think it would "hurt" anything if you want to use it. It's more for external weeping head gaskets in the Phase II.

The Subaru conditioner is designed for the external leaks of the Phase II 2.5 starting in 1999 forester and 2000 Legacy. Not required for the earlier Phase I 2.5 which involves an internal combustion leak.

If it only does it when you have 4 people in it then it could be load/weight related. Do you have symptoms when alone in the car? How much mileage? Could be worn suspension parts.

Here's a picture of the ugly 99 wheel that was leaking. One of the fugliest I've ever seen.

These Outback wheels corrode like crazy for a couple of model years. My mother-in-laws 98 Outback (RIP) had issues with leaking. I had them cleaned up at the inner bead and they held fine after that. They would ALWAYS leak in weather temperature change from warm to cold during the fall and winter. After a good polish they worked fine. A friend with a 99 has the ugliest wheels you have ever seen. Would leak until they were cleaned up. Now they hold air fine too.

Has it been getting any louder? Does the sound change at all during turns? A bad wheel bearing I had made a WUB-WUB-WUB-WUB sound that got progressively louder over a long period of time, maybe 10+ months. It got so loud my daughter finally heard it over the radio.

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you do them side to side like you said. I put ceramic pads and cryogenic rotors on the fronts until I had the $$ to upgrade the backs.

Check the front differential gear oil too. It's possible the seal is bad and the ATF and gear oil are mixing together. If that has happened you're done with this transmission.

Buy a bunch of trans fluid and change out the nasty stuff at least 2-3 times. Sometimes you can have luck that a couple of flushes will clean out some crud in the valve body and free up the inner workings after you drive it around. If this works then your only investment is the fluid and your time involved. Same cost if it doesn't fix your problem. You can search the forum here for an approximate amount used in each change.

Model and year would help. Have you reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes? Fuel filter? How many miles on the T-Belt, if it jumped a tooth or 2 you could have timing issues. Is this an erratic problem or constant issue? You could trace all the vacuum lines and connections to make sure everything is correctly hooked up.