Suzam

WHY would you not want to have the code read? A new car under warranty there would be no charge at the dealership. I would be concerned that there is a reason that it is on and the car should be checked. You are just starting out with a new model, if you want to keep the car for a while you would want to know what is causing it. It's not like it's a service light that encorages you to get the oil changed or tires rotated, the CEL comes on for a definate reason.

Can you explain how this is "rigged"? The Forester in the video obviously does slip on the far rear wheel at a pretty high RPM. All Lsd differentials I've ever owned wouldn't let that much of a diiference in wheel spin on the opposing wheel. Just wondering...

I have a MY13 Legacy Ltd and I charge my iPhone from a USB in the console, listen to music from it on the stereo and use the bluetooth for handsfree fuction. If you have the apperance package and NAV/Eyesight you should have those fuctions and a USB in your console especially of your talking about a MY14. My mother-in-law's MY11 Outback has the USB inside the console and a 110 Outlet located on the back of the console as an option, but the new models now have AC vents there so it is no longer an option. I just wish salepoeple took the time, (since they just seem sit around a lot when slow) to learn what can and can't be done and what's available on each of the models. If I'm looking for answers to questions I would expect them to be "experts" in knowlege. When I bought my 2013 I was more knowlegeable than the 2 salepeople I was talking with (but we here on the board may be exceptions). I just feel bad for those consumers not knowing that sometime the things salepoeple say may not be even near the truth.

Given a choice of running AC or spending 2 days in the hospital, guess which I would choose. Comfort and health issues would be a priority for me. As far as a burden on the engine, I wouldn't even consider it a factor.

Sounds like you've stayed on top of maintainence. I'm a fan of changing the front and rear differential oil around 100-120k. I usually do a synthetic replacement but dino would be fine too. Check for general oil seepage from the valve covers, O rings and head gaskets etc. and watch for unever tire wear from worn out suspention parts

I had a 98 Outback and the light was in one of the "blanks" on the dash board. It wasn't only a light but a button for the valet mode although it didn't look like a button is was. Not saying you have the same thing but if you do try pushing the light light itself. When I pushed mine for the valet mode it would just blink all the time, it didn't matter if the car was on or off.

Pull it all off and inspect the backing plate. I have an 01 Outback that did the same thing on the passenger side. Turned out to be rust build up behind the backing plate that pushed it out far enough to make contact. A grinding wheel made short work of it.

I find it odd it comes in over time and not straight away. I had a 1995 Nissan Maxima that the lock-up torque converter would cause a horrific vibration. If I pushed the overdrive button in on the shifter would stop it instantly. It only did it after driving for 20 minutes or so. The next cold start it shifted fine until 20-30 minutes later. It had over 200,000 on the odometer, so I just drove it that way for 6 months then sold it for parts.

Sorry I was rushing through the board the other day when I saw your question. I didn't take the opportunity to welcome you to the board. There's a great group of knowledgeable members that are a wealth of info, and we don't bash anybody here like you find on a lot of public forums. Remember: There are no dumb questions! A good knowledge base is the key to solving and avoiding problems!

Yes.

Heck, I'd let the passenger freeze.

In most cases it is a prudent preventative measure. General consensus is that changing the water pump "while you're there" makes the most sense. The added cost now is a lot less than later, just to install a pump. However, $1200 is a lot of costs, depending on what they said they would do for that. I've had T-belts, ALL the pulleys and tensioners, drive belts and cam seals replaced at the same time for less than $800.

If you shine a flashlight to the dash in the dark you should be able to see where the FWD light is located. I also believe it should light up with all the other dash lights when you first turn the key on. The Fuse just supplies full current to the duty c, so if it is bad there is the possibility the fuse won't stop it from binding.

Since no one else asked, I'd be curious as to why you would want to switch. Unless you adjust tire sizes on the 15 (if they fit) or 16 inch wheels to match stock circumference of the tires, you are looking at different handling and speedometer issue as well as potentially confusing the transmission for shift points. This could also effect MPG. Switching to smaller wheels means you'll have taller sidewalls which would be a smoother ride but cornering would suffer.

Correct, only the 1996 2.5 required 91 octane all other Subies with the exception of turbo models run fine on regular.

I have a new 2013 Legacy LTD with less than 800 miles on it and it does not make any sounds at the pedal, I don't recall my mother-in-laws 2011 Outback doing it either. I think I would have noticed if it did (or she would have).

If it's like mine you pop the round cover at the pivot point from the opposite side of the arm and there you should see a nut on a threaded stud.

That should do it. Let us know if you are successful! In order to keep the alarm from flashing the lights and horn and before reconnecting the battery (you wil disconnect it before replacing the fuse, right?) turn the ignition key to the run position as if the car was already started and running then attach the positive cable you disconnected back onto the battery.

This subject has been cover on the board for many years now. It's typical symptom of after-martket axles especially in the MY95 I had. I had to keep the front windows up a little in the rubber at the top of the door sill to keep them from ratling loudly at idle in gear. I'd be inclined to have the idle RPMs verified. A low idle of 400 rpm would exasterbate the vibration problem, and a higher idle may help but not cure it. A tired or lazy coolant temp sensor caused my 95 to have a varing idle that started too high cold then dropped too low at operating temp. Once I replaced it the idle stayed around 750 rpm after warm up as I recall (since this was about 6 years ago).

97 through 99 the 2.2 are interference motors, 99 was the LAST year for the 2.2's after that all Subies had 2.5.

Does it crack in the same place each time? I had a MY01 Outback Wagon crack starting at the bottom and working up to under the center of the wiper blade under the driver's side. I took it back to the dealer under warranty but they claimed it was a stone strike so I was waiting until inspection to spend the money on replacing it. About 2 months later the SAME exact thing happend on the passenger side. Both were almost 1/4 inch within the same spot on either side. Back to the dealer, figuring I had a chance at now getting it fix, and the service manager again insisted the same thing, stone strike. The mechanic even argued my side. I went to the owner and pleaded my case and they replaced the glass. The mechanic told me it looked like a bad install and they were possible stress breaks from either incorrect positioning of the original glass or a shock to it before the install.

How does it smell and what, if any, kind of crud is in the pan?

I'd be interested in your results. Especially relating to a 95 model. I'm pretty sure you get enough cold weather where you are in BC.

MY 95 was ALWAYS reluctant to shift up to 4th when the temperature dropped below 30° F in winter. I bough the car brand new and it always did it. The action was confirmed by a master mechanic in 1996 as a way to reduce cold engine emissions. I can't recall if it's only the 2.2 or not but could be it dosen't effect the 2.5. There are older threads on the board discussing this delay of shift to 4th when cold. I've also had a 97 & 99 2.2 that did not do this, or if they did, not to the same extreme as the 95 2.2 did maybe soa adjusted the specs later on.

Once warmed up it shifts fine? If so the TCU is programmed to stay in 3 until the engine is at a certain temperature for pollution reasons, so it could be "normal". I had a 95 Legacy and altered my route to work in the winter because I was less than 3 minutes to a major 65 mph highway and I'd have to endure driving another 4 or 5 minutes at high RPMs just to keep up with the slow traffic.