Suzam

If they are flashing it could be an alarm system. try disconnecting the battery, turn the key to "ON" and reconnect the battery, while the key is still in the "ON" position.

A name brand should be fine. I've got a Stant cap on my 97 and 98 both work without any problems.

Welcome to the board. Plenty of information here about what you are experiencing. You can use the search function for a limited look around for answers, also check the "Similar Threads" section on the lower part of this thread. With that mileage you may want to consider a used 2.2 swap to eliminate head gasket issues the 2.5 has and not worry about a rebuild. Otherwise if the engine is in good shape, new head gaskets would give you a new lease on life, but the lower end would still have 163k. There are several ways you could go on this, do some research here and see what makes the most sense to you and your situation.

Please make sure to let us know what happens and how you make out. This kind of follow up helps keep this board informative for all!

I had a heater hose drive me nuts like your problem, I finally found it on a cold day when I spotted the steam back by the fire wall. Congrats on finding your leak, better make sure all your hoses are in good shape. I replaced every hose after my problem.

oldbluesfan, I would try to reset the entire system this way: Disconnect the battery's positive cable and wait for a few minutes. Then turn the key in the ignition all the way "on" as if the car is running. Reconnect the battery while the key is still in the "on" position. Then start your car by turning the key forward to fire up the starter. This should reset your alarm to factory specs. This is also the way to keep your alarm from going off after a battery disconnect if you don't have the remote available to quiet it. In order to turn the horn alert on or off just hold BOTH the lock and unlock buttons at the same time until the horn sounds. Valet is set as you described, just hold the unlock button down with the driver door open for at least 2 seconds until the security light flashes quickly. ****These instructions are for the MY2000+ alarms, this is what I do for my 2001 model. Our MY97 and 98 are different for valet but the same for the battery disconnect resetting procedure.***

Let us know how it goes and how that engine feels.

Even if you do treat the smell, if the cause is still there you'll never get rid of it. The first thing is to locate the source of the smell and the cause of the problem. Moisture is usually a good cause, windows open during rain or bad gasket seals on windows and doors. Other tings are items like food rolling under seats and left there to let nature take its course upon. Leaking heater cores are know to drip coolant into the cabin as well. A good clean out of the interior will make sure there is no trash and also give you a chance to check for wet spots. Try parking in the sun with the windows down and see if that helps.

It was a legitimate question, because I wondered too. Wouldn't be te first time someone drained the pan, read the manual and put 9+ quarts in to replace the 3-4 quarts that came out.

Good Job! It's good to know you were able to fix the problem. Here is the link to the original problem: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112717

Yes there should be a relay in the cabin above your left foot under the dash attached to the side of a gray wire junction box. It's about as round as a quarter and maybe 1.5" long if my memory serves. Also check the main wire that passes through the firewall. It has a plug up around the brake pedal arm under the dash, possible it has come loose. There is also wires that go to other wires in that junction that attach with vampire clips so it knows when power is to the low beams and high beams and throws the relay accordingly. I've installed a couple of light sets in a 95 and a 97. If you need a wiring schematic let me know and I'll see if I can dig one up. I'd consider a change out or testing at least one of the bulbs before sticking your head up under the dash.

Double check the fluid level, those are sometimes symptoms of low levels. Especially the Cluck when turning. The fluid sloshes away from the bottom of the pan and the pump looses pressure because there isn't enough fluid to be picked up. Check it hot on a level area with the engine running and run it though all the gears first pausing for a couple of seconds in 1st, 2nd, 3rd D and R while applying the brakes. This fills the valve body in all the nooks and crannies.

Did you checked the connections at the fuel pump on top of the tank? It might be as simple as a loose/cracked hose connection there.

Good news that you got her fixed. I've had the same trailer with 8 inch wheels for 6 years. She comes in quite handy and has more than earned her keep and quietly sits folded in our garage until needed, and our MY01 Outback loves to pull her around.

Might be worth having a shop put tracing dye in the coolant to see if you can find an external leak via a UV light.

Scheduled maintenance recommends 105K OR 105 months (8.75 years) for a 2.5. If a MY01 has approx 80K should I be getting the belt changed because of time?

If she stopped for gas, check that the gas cap is tight. That will give you a CEL.

Our 2001 Outback 2.5 gets 20 to 21 MPG Local and 26-28 MPG highway. Our 1998 Outback 2.5 gets 18-20 local and 24-26 highway. Our 1997 Legacy 2.2 gets 22-23 local and 29-31 highway I get at least 2 MPG more than the wife in the same car at any given time. Driving habits make a big difference. They are all automatics the 97 2.2 has synthetic trans and differential oil. All run reg engine oil.

I agree, but a finicky thermostat might cause a similar problem. If wrongturninwv wants to do an exhaust gas test of the coolant to confirm a bad headgasket. I was suggesting an inexpensive T-stat replacement before resigning to a blown headgasket since he has had it happen every time he drives 3 to 4 hours. If the radiator cap is loosened on a hot engine, the coolant will flow into the overflow tank from natural expansion. wrongturninwv: is the temp gauge steady until the overheating and then pegs the meter or is there a fluctuation in the needle?

I didn't see any mention of a new thermostat. Replace the t-stat with a genuine Subaru one from the dealer, refill and burp the system, topping off the overflow tank to correct level. If it still overheats then suspect an internal headgasket leak. Search this forum for plenty of info on HG leaks. Did I mention it should be a GENUINE Subaru T-stat, aftermarkets do not work well in Subarus. FYI: internal headgasket leaks do not produce "smoke" out the tailpipe. Hot compression gases are forced into the cooling system which creates air pockets in the water jacket that stop coolant flow and cause overheating.

Do the RPM's seem to drop down after it starts to warm up? The first suspect I would blame if the coolant temperature sensor, it can report a false reading without a CEL. The computer will try to warm-up the car by making it rev higher.

Yes, all indicator lights on the dash should cycle when you first turn the key on. This verifies that all bulbs are in place and working correctly.

Glad to hear that it solved your problem!

Most of these gaskets weep on the driver's side on the underside of the head. If it's not too bad the additive should slow if not stop it. Just keep an eye on the coolant level and make sure it doesn't get too low. Keeping a bottle of 50/50 mix in the back wouldn't hurt for security, and show anyone that drives the car what to look for and how to add fluid if needed. If it continues to leak cars101.com posted a link on 3/18/10 that says there is an aftermarket headgasket but offered little info. Click here for the link

T-Belt is 105k miles SO YOU ARE WAY DUE! http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html You are on borrowed time. All else you mention would be the way to go for maintenance.