Suzam

+1 on nipper's reply. I can get the VLSD rear in our MY01 to clunk hard while going 15 mph and spinning the wheels with WOT in the snow. The rear will spin then a HARD engagement. Scared the heck outta me until I figured out that was going on. VLSD isn't the same as the old posi unit or limited-slip diffs. Give it more juice and it should get you going.

Consumer Reports magazine has always said that Subarus have a tendency to swing out the rear in their emergency lane change manuvers unless it has VDC. They say that it happens more if the throttle has been "let up" causing the rear to try to catch up to the front. :-\

Maybe someone found a new way to "roll back " the odometer.

It's all good, even your accepting a good ribbing from us. My wife made it a point to harrass me about our first new MY01 Subaru. I sat in the car for over 1 hour reading the manual and fiddling with every knob and button including the dual sunroofs (I even sat in the back seat looking out of them). Learned a lot about the car that way (including the virgin switch which I didn't know about even though we had a MY95 with it). She finally caught me when I was fooling around with the alarm and made enough noise for her to find me.

Maybe we found the other 1/2 of that virgin!!!!

I guess it would depend on the condition of the car overall. Is it a Limited? How many miles are on it and what's the problem with the engine? If it was maintenance issues or the car was run overheated there could be collateral transmission damage, etc. BTW - Subaru’s name for the Maroon color is Rosewood.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=18785&cat=500 Kind of hard to see in the this shadows of the photo, but that's the idea isn't it? Yes it was a more money but I can tell you it's been on for 6 years and still looks new. No rust at the welds or anything. I've seen some others that chip and rust, so I would rate the quality on the high end. Plus it looks good without being the first thing your eye catches.

I put a Hidden-Hitch on my 01. It's tucked under and comes with a plastic cap that covers the box receiver and the edge of the chain hook ups for a nice finish when not in use. Not drilling, just a little fishing through the body channels. It's a 1 person job and takes around 1/2 an hour, 2 would be helpful 1 to hold the hitch up to the bolts while the other threads the nuts on, but if you support it with a box or something it can be done. I'll see if I can post a picture, if I have one.

Unless you want to buy other parts at the same time the dealer's price will be close to online + shipping cost. http://subarupartsforyou.com/ part # - 21200AA072KITJJ = $13 + shipping ($21 dealer list)

Maybe they were thinking of the Outback which was 1995.

Good thing you have the chance to get it in now instead of right beore the holidays, you could have ended up waiting several extra days.

Never a CEL, I noticed it mostly on inclines applying half or more on the accelerator to speed up or maintain speed. Jealous of the snow, want to head to New England now instead of Feb.

I had a 95 auto that did something similar and it turned out to be a bad knock sensor retarding and advancing the timing to compensate for a false knocking it was registering.

If you a refering to inserting the key in the door and hard turning to lock or unlock the door, try some LOCK-EASE or other type of graphite lubricant made for locks. Chances are the lock cylinder is binding and needs lubrication.

What is the red knob on the left side under the dash?? http://www.autoblog.com/gallery/2009-subaru-forester/545163/full/ If it was on the driver's side, I'd hope it was a mother-in-law ejector.

I had a windsheild wiper that made that noise. Try turning the wipers on and see if the noise stops when they are out of the seated position.

I'd like to know what's wrong with the engine and who diagnosed it before I'd go as far as replacing it.

Sorry to be confused, but he was asking about a fob and and I started thinking about alarm systems. I guees the point I was making is that a fob wouldn't do any good without at least power locks. Suffering from a bad head cold makes me think funny... or maybe it's the meds...

What's the Mileage?? Was a OEM Subaru themostat used? It should be, aftermarkets don't perform well in Subies. Was the system "burped" properly? (You can do a search on the board) When you say it overheats, is the gauge going up, and how much? Or are we talking steam out from under the hood? If everything is working correctly the temperature needle should be rock steady at halfway or a little under at all times. When the engine is at operation temperature is the lower radiator hose warm? And last but not least, is the coolant new?

Outbacks came standard with power locks as did the "L" models. The Brightons didn't have the options. Just make sure to get the proper remote for the year.

This is a good question! If you go into a shop asking how much to replace a part, they maybe quoting on what you are asking them to do without a diagnosis.

Year and model, please. No Subaru receiver has a battery, they all run off of the car battery. Silly question: Do you only have one remote or can you try a second one? You can try to reprogram the remote to the car and see if that works. Info on the board or try http://www.cars101.com for instructions. If that fails the remote may be dead.

The cold hard fact is this happens more often than not. Billing departments have specific charges for a job, be it a tune-up, oil change, transmission R&R etc. You may or may not have had everything done on a list. Time is charged by the book, which give a billable time that's usually longer than the real time. Again a plus for the dealer. Parts markup is outrageous, especially for parts you can get the local autoparts store. Remember that some dealers make more money in the service department than they do selling cars. Of course I bet they also over charge SOA for warranty work too, and get the maximum allowable charges.

That's where I was heading, just didn't know the mechanics of how the oil wasn't getting burned until the engine braking had stopped.

Somebody should confirm this, but I think while engine braking the fuel injectors cut off, or at least there is a minimal amount of combustion going on. That being true aren't the pistions are pulling a vacuum and drawing oil from the leaking valve guides? Since there is no combustion in the cylinders and the oil draws passed the valves, it has no where to go but out the exaust valve where it sits until the combustion starts again. At that point wouldn't the excess oil start to burn off and continue until it's gone? That would explain the delay of smoke until you stop the engine braking.