Suzam

I Agree with hawksoob, $300-$450 should be the most for commond oil leaks like the cam seals and maybe check the oil pump seals. I think I paid about $580 at 65K on our MY95, but I had some other things done at that time including the 60K timing belt and water pump ($95).

It's hard to diagnose a problem involving noises and symptoms on the internet, but you could do some testing before you go to the shop. Usually the ABS is pretty apparent when it engages, you feel it in the petal and can hear the ABS pump run. If you can find an appropriate place to test it (when there is no traffic or large objects, etc), find dirt, gravel or a wet surface and hit them hard from about 10-15 MPH. that would give you a comparison to see if it's the same noise you hear. Ordinarily the ABS wouldn't make noises or activate by normal brake usage every time you apply the brakes.

Double check the air filter box and all the way along the airway to the engine. I had 1 3/4" hose on the underside of the assembly that produced the same problem. Once I found it an reconnected it, everything was fine.

Check this site: http://www.saabcentral.com/features/9-2x_index.php The Saab 9-2 has all the under car Subaru parts with some modifications to the body parts...but it's a Subie.

Timing Belt change interval is 60k miles. If the car was maintained properly it should have been done. Hopefully you can check the service records on the car. The other things to check are the cam seals, which can start to leak a bit between 70 and 90k miles. They usually create a slight oil burning smell from under the hood. If a good mechanic changed the t-belt the seals should have been inspected and replaced as needed. These are great cars that give great service. Consider changing, not just checking, the levels of the front and rear differential oils (if it's an automatic) that is something that you can do it yourself. Check the board by using the search, plenty of info that comes in handy. 20 MPG around town isn't unusual; I expect 23-25 in mixed driving and maybe 28-29 or a little better on the highway from our MY95. ***You’re mileage may vary***

Welcome to the group! Simple fix: to deactivate the horn "chirp" - with the drivers door open, press and hold both lock and unlock buttons on the remote at the same time, until the lights and horn sound. Reverse the proceedure to active the "chirp" again. I turn it off until I take the car in for service at the dealer, they walk around the lot pushing the button so they can find the car... I found that out when the tech came into the waiting room and asked me where I parked it since he couldn't find it afer 5 minutes of walking around the lot.

Also another cause could be the brake disks being warped, which happens a lot on these Outbacks. The MY00 had smaller disks than the MY01 and newer. You may need to resurface or just replace.

I picked up a set of WRX wheels for our MY95 Legacy L, they fit perfectly with the 205/55-16 stock tires that came on it.

Check this link for the problem of the wind noise: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=105358#post105358

I put a set of WRX (205/55R16) wheels and tires on our 95MY Legacy L (195/70R14) fit perfectly and fixed the speedometer that always was a little fast anyway by about 2-3%. I checked it via the interstate mile markers as well as the mile-a-minute test of doing a steady 60MPH for 1 minute to see if the mile marker line was crossed at 60 second intervals.

You didn't mention any brake work but I'd have your rotors checked. Our MY01 had a vibration between 65 & 70. Had the rotors turned and NO other work done. Smooth now. If your discs have a good amount of milage I'd consider replacment.

Hey there campbell48 and welcome. Got a Subie or are you just looking around the board? If you have one, give us details...we LOVE details.

Another idea, if you do have a problem...I'd let the dealer do your oil changes for you so there is a record. Then drive it back as soon as you read the dipstick as being low, have the service manager look for himself (herself?!?). Keep on doing it, maybe it will convince them that there may be a problem. Otherwise, if you do the oil changes, that could be the excuse for ignoring your potential problem.

Whew, thanks for clearing that up...I was thinking all 3 of ours were invloved in a recall. Turns out none are!

Some have tried with somewhat mixed results, but the bottom line is the AWD system in the auto has a 90-10 spilt of power until it calls for better traction, then the voltage increases on the electronically controled clutch packs. The gain for trying FWD with the fuse would be minimal at best. The MPG is effected more by the weight of the entire AWD system than the added "drag" on the drive train. You would be supplying full current to the clutch packs at all times. I wonder if you could be causing more damage to the electronics and mechanical parts by doing this than you would gain in MPG?

you should do a search on this board for overheating. You could be looking at a internal leak of your head gasket, the main thing you don't want to do right now is run the engine to the point that your heads warp, you may have avoided this by not running the engine very long after you noticed a problem. You also may have built up enough pressure in the cooling system to blowout some coolant, so you should check the level, and as soon as you can, get a professional mechanic to check for exhaust gases in the antifreeze--a sure sign of a blown head gasket. These 2.5's have a strong tendency to pop gaskets.

Welcome! You are in the right place for your MY95 Legacy LS. You should have the diehard 2.2L of which, I belive, there were some engines and transmissions built in Japan and some in America. You can research on this message board here and also find out via the serial number. Check this site: http://www.carcarecouncil.org/stats.shtml it may give you more info. How many miles on your MY95? Ours has 120K miles and still running strong. Is it an AWD or FWD model?

Since you are located in "somewhere" it's a guess as to what you have, let's :DASSuME:D you're in N. America. The 2.5 phase 2 showed up in the MY00 Legacy and Outbacks. Other parts of the world it showed up earlier. The Phase 2 did show up in the Forester and Impreza models in MY99 in N. America. You should be able to ID the number of cams by looking at the head configuration.

Check http://kbb.com for new prices, or http://www.edmunds.com You can also check subaru or aftermarket sites for the trailer hitch and pet barrier part numbers to see if they are the same, but I belive that they are different.

Sounds like you have air in the system, if a bubble gets trapped in the core you will here the water sound. Try checking your coolant level and bleeding the system.

So 2 questions need answering: 1) km or miles and $US or $CAN

I just got a wire basket that bolts to the roof rack for our MY01 OB Wagon here: http://subaru.autowebaccessories.com/ Nice folks, fast service and good price too.

There are no head gasket issues with the 2.2 engines.

No that can't be right, I have an aftermarket setup but it should act just like the lights on the car itself. If no car lights are on, then there should be no trailer lights. It it the running lights or brake light that stay on? The reason I ask is that the brake light circuts always have power, that's why you can push the pedal an the brake lights work when all else is switched off.

Are the Legacy wheels 15"? There were also 14" alloy wheels for the Legacys. I don't think the 14" would fit your OB. Otherwise they should bolt on. Depending on the wheels from the legacy you might need the open ended lug nuts, if the wheel has a center cap that covers them.