unverviking

Never drove a Forester, but have a friend who's had 8 Sube's in his lifetime. He doesn't like the Forester over the Legacy/Outback because it has a shorter wheelbase, and the ride is a little more harsh than the Legacy/Outback. He drives about 50 or so miles a day back and forth for work. I like both my Legacy's and Outback's ride. Nice and smooth.. So Legacy/Outback would be my vote... Let us know how you fare... P.S. I have relatives in Jax... Nice place to come and visit, expecially NOW... Winter in NY !!!!!!!

I would have to agree with that. I have a work provided van, a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 3.9 V6 with 144k on it. I can walk off the line better than that thing can... I had to drive my 93 for a couple of days this week as a treat to myself... We've owned a Corsica (similar style) before and my 93, with 201k drives better than that thing could have ever dreamt to. Boring rental cars should be our Sube's best friends... After driving them we love to come back to our Subes...

I checked all over again. I smelled it shortly after I started the car. I trolled around with my trust MAG Light and found that the top of the passenger side half shaft was coated in oil. By top, I mean the part from the trans case to the Inner CV boot. It's kinda wierd, it's not on the boot, and the boot looks intact. I did drive it and when I parked it was "turned around". Wonder if the seal is starting to go on the trans side. They are really, really close to the exhaust. I really couldn't see the driver's side of the trans case too well to compare the seal area. It goes back to the shop that did the VCG tomorrow. I will report my findings to them, and see what they have to say. Thanks for all the help...

Thanks for the explanation... Didn't sound too hard to replace. Who'da thought that... ROC is nice, gotta enjoy the seasons to like it. Building a new house in Spencerport, gonna stay around for awhile. Gotta buck the trend of everyone leaving here for Florida...

my 93's works fine. surprising in our climate, salt all over the roads in the winter. I would have thought that it would have rusted by now. I've known other brands that have long before 12 years...

Just had (2 weeks ago) the passenger side valve cover gasket done, and had them do an oil change (while they were in there) and we're still smelling burning oil at idle. I've looked (as best as I can) from top and bottom and can't see anything dripping onto the exhaust, etc. I've ran my hand under the valve cover gasket and no oil. I also pulled the spark plug wires to see if it was there. Nothing, they were clean. Any ideas of where else to look... It seems to be getting worse. I've checked the oil level, no loss. Oh yeah, I checked the access panel for the filter, nothing there. TIA

My 93's clutch was slipping in 5th while cold. Now that it has warmed up here, it has subsided. I kinda thought that maybe I got some snow pack into the clutch (not sure if there's an access hole for checking the clutch itself) after driving thru several big drifts. Hopefully I can "nurse" it till the spring. Want to trade up to a newer (95-96) OBW with a 2.2 or an Impreza/OBS.

Always replace with what the OEM put into it. Subaru uses NGK, Chrysler uses Champion, GM uses AC Delco, Ford uses Motorcraft or Autolite, VW uses Bosch (at least my Bug) Not sure about the rest, just going on what I've worked on in my time...

Yes, Subaru uses them on the rear drive shaft. With the 5 Speed, it may be used in the viscous coupling toward the front. From my experience, a bad u-joint would cause a vibration in the seat/floor area at around 35-50 MPH driving straight. Was the car shaking at idle, did it worsen while driven, turning ?? If it was shaking at idle or shaking in turns, that would rule out a u-joint.

Maybe a bad wheel bearing... I would think that if it was a tire problem, you'd feel some vibration in the steering wheel. (you didn't mention if it did) Could be a CV joint issue too... Advise on what you find...

bad u-joint maybe ??

How'd you make out with your radiator issues ?? Must be ok, if you're considering a CD in it... Good Luck on your NC trip, if we don't cross paths between now and when you leave... BTW... I third Crutchfield. My brother and brother in law swear by them... We've never owned a car long enough to buy another radio. Except our 01 OBW, we got it setup with a CD when we bought it.

If I remember correctly, someone in an earlier thread mentioned something about a lack of oxygen in cars parked in a heated, sealed garage. Is your garage heated ?? Does he park in it all the time or just at lunch time ?? Would heated really be the issue or the fact that it is well sealed ? Not sure... Never had a heated garage, or for that matter a well sealed garage... I miss my old drafty barn... NOT !

I had the dealer's service manager call SOA when my alternator went bad @ 62K. They (SOA) covered half the bill. That was cheaper than me buying a reman alternator from Auto Zone (el cheapo) and doing it myself. They (SOA) were very helpful in that aspect. BTW... The alternator had bad bearings (growl, growl), not that it wasn't charging, etc. I think I even got a new belt out of them for free too...

I have over 201k on my 93 Legacy wagon AWD, and it has the original clutch in it. It is just now starting to show sign of some slipping in 5th, but not all the time... I was impressed (at first drive) on Subaru's automatic. When we bought our 01 new, I told my wife that if I thought that the auto was logey (like the GM's we had driven previously) I would need to teach her how to drive a 5 speed. Let's just say we have the Auto, it threw me in the seat and kept on going... Let's hope that lasts as long as my 93's clutch...

I just read in the local paper that a local tire dealer is now using Nitrogen instead of air in their tires... They claim "nitrogen helps tires stay properly inflated longer, resulting in less wear, better handling and better mileage. " Anyone hear of other tire dealers doing this ??

I've used either NAPA's (Trico) Exact Fit or Winter Blades. I've not had any chattering with either of them. I learned long ago to avoid ANCO. I first started using NAPA's blades when I took over Fleet Maintenance for the local volunteer Ambulance service... I've used them ever since... I've found the Trico's at Advance Auto Parts... only a few pennies cheaper than NAPA. I'm sure others sell them too. I've got a set of Bosch's on the BUG, not that I drive it in the rain... Those wipers take forever to sweep... you'd never know that they were on...

got a security system with a starter kill ??? I have heard of replacement starters going bad shortly after installed. Especially re-maned ones. Should be under warranty, labor too. When I was an apprentice, the shop I was at covered starter labor for 30 days, and used lifetime warranted starters.

Porus Rims... for some reason the rims have a defect that cause them not to be airtight... I'm assuming that the rims are aluminum, there could be a problem with the metal causing it to be porus and letting the air escape. Just my 2 pennies worth...

Check the valve stems, it almost seems that would have been checked and changed with the new tires. It almost seems, that with 2 different sets of tires on the rims, there may be a rim defect. I know most, if not all tire places, clean and seal the rims along with replacing the valve stems. Have you consulted a dealer to check about a porus set of rims ??? Keep us posted...

Tom, How are you making out with this... Haven't heard anything in a few days... Or did you finally dig your way out and start for NC ??? On foot that is...

I'm pretty sure that your car has the 2.2 (EJ22) motor. That motor is a Non Interference Motor. That means if your timing belt should break, yes, it will leave you stranded, but will not do damage to the motor. I beleive that in 97 they started making the 2.2 an Interference motor. Regular maintenance is key, oil & filter changes, coolant flushes, etc... If you can do the work yourself, all the better. It's not that hard to do, as long as you do it right... As far a burping out the coolant system, that's how I was taught how to do it for ANY car. If not, select a reputable service station that doesn't have any reservations working on a Subaru... I see that you are from Rochester... I live in Spencerport... I would, for our climate, recommend using 5w30 oil. It is a thin oil, it covers the spectrum of our weather really well. I haven't had any issues yet... What kind of experience have you had with service for your Subaru ?? I've had ok luck with Van Bortel's... until recently... Avoid the other's... Piehler's told me last week (when I complained about something) that my concern was silly and a waste of their time... So they are NOT getting my business again... Keep in touch and good luck with your Sube...

I was planning on that... Better safe than sorry I always say... Don't want to have the throw out bearing start squawking a month later... Or worse

I know someone asked this a few weeks ago, but I have more questions... My clutch (original, on my 93 Leg Wagon AWD 2.2) is starting to show the tell tale signs of clutch failure... (Slipping in 5th when looking to accelerate to pass a slow moving person in the fast lane...) Based on everyone's experiences, what brands to look for ?? avoid ??? New ?? Re-Man ?? I remember from years ago (10 or more, when I was an Auto Mechanics Apprentice) when my clutch fell apart on my Dodge Dakota, I was told (by my journeyman) not to buy a re-man, because they sucked... He'd had several fail shortly after install, and had to replace with a new one anyway... Is this still true ?? (I never finished my apprenticeship, I got into electronics, computers, phones, etc instead) Thanks to all who reply in advance...

Ain't that the truth... almost lost my drawers the last time we stopped up there... On your way to NC, stop in Rochester @ the Harbor Freight store... although there's probably one in Utica or in 'cuse... Good Luck to you...