unverviking

replaced the plus and wires today... It was a great day almost 60 degees... got my OEM wires yesterday... THANKS SUBIEGAL used the V-Power plugs, the one's that I pulled out were kinda oily on the rim of the threads. Spark area looked normally worn... Didn't realize how deep in the plugs were on this one... Only changed a set on my 2.2 a few years ago. Was kinda tight on the driver's side, but worked thru it... Passenger side was far easier once I removed the air filter stuff... We'll see how the gas mileage fairs, seems to run better. Hopefully it was the answer...

How about CRAPPY gas... We live in Rochester area and everyone I've been talking to here has had crappy gas mileage on everthing they drive. Talked to my neighbor today, he was getting 17 mpg on his 99 Dodge 1500 5.9L truck in the fall, he lucky to be pulling 12 now. We were getting 22-23 mpg on the 01 OBW and we've been getting aroung 18-20 mpg. Even my 97 Dodge 1500 VAN 3.9L (work provided) was getting `330 miles per tank. I had to fill it at 270 this week. We much be getting hte bottom of the barrell gas here. It SUCKS, literally...

I too have been using Winter Blades for quite a number of years. I used ANCO blades and wasn't impressed. They just wouldn't keep contact and didn't last very long. I've used either NAPA or TRICO winter blades. NAPA's are by TRICO and are the exact same. I started using the NAPA blades when I was maintaining a fleet of 3 ambulances. Went thru 2 sets a year on each "bus" then they bought a Crown Vic as a "flycar" what a HEAP... :horse:Don't get me going on that thing... Wish I knew what I do now about Subaru then, I would have pushed to get one...

I've always believed in replacing spark plugs with what came in it from the factory. I'm not a fan of changing brands just because their marekting campaign says I need to. I learned this the hard way. I put Autolite's into my Dodge (uses Champions) and blew my head gasket a few months later. I still say they were partially related... But back to my question... I'm planning on doing plugs and wires next weekend on my 01 OBW and was wondering if the NGK "premium" plugs are really worth the extra $$$, or should I stick with the V-Power plugs... Here's the specifics on the car, Just over 85k, New Air Filter, NO CEL codes, etc, and having lots of "gas guzzling" trouble. Only getting about 20 MPG. Was doing much better before and hoping that by changing the plugs (changed @ 60k) and wires (original) will help. I've got OEM wires on order with SubieGal, and plan on getting the NGK's at the local NAPA. Thanks in advance to all who reply...

We tow a Coleman Laredo Camper, it's about 1500lbs loaded. No electric brakes needed, etc... No problems ever noted, car runs great. Towed in hills, etc, no trouble. Didn't install a tranny cooler, but keep up on the ATF and Coolant changes about every other year, or 30k. We have a 2001 OBW 2.5l Automatic with 85k on it now... and can't wait until the camping season starts here in upstate NY.

I've used NAPA Gold or WIX filters. The NAPA Gold is a WIX made filter. I'd stay away from FRAM. Just holding it in your hand when holding a WIX in the other, you can feel the difference. I've not had it happen to me, but have heard of FRAM Filters fialing while in use... That's the only filter I've heard that about from more than 1 source... I've heard a lot of good about the Purolator filter as well. I would probably use it too if I could find them. The local NAPA is around the corner, so there's a convenience factor too...

I know I've seen, read, and contributed to this same question, but... I got to drive the OBW this week, as my company van died (darn DODGE). I drove 270 miles using 12 gallons, which average out to be 22.5 MPG. Most of it was highway. Right now i've got just over 100 miles, and at 1/2 a tank. My wife normally drives it, she's been saying for that last month or so, that it's been bad. She doesn't drive highway, so I dismissed it, till I had to buy the gas for a change... I just changed the Air Filter today, I plan on changing the plugs and wires soon. Need to replace the driver's side valve cover gasket, as it's leaking now... I've not gotten any CEL light, etc. It passed NYS Inspection in January, no issues, they now scan the car for thrown codes, etc... Anybody got any advice, other than what I've done, or plan to do... Car is an 01 OBW, 2.5l with almost 85k. I run good 5W30 with a WIX filter... Change the oil every 3 months irregardless of mileage. Most of the time it's about 2-2.5k at changes... Thanks in advance for all those who respond...

If you haven't already bought the pads... I recommend Ceramic pads. They are are harder compound, and last longer. I got about 50k on my 1st set, only got about 1k on the new ones and hope for the same wear... The OEM pads only lasted 23k.

The dealer's are kinda expensive... I've been, and go to occasionally, Van Bortel's. I've been to Universal Imports, not too bad, kinda on the expensive side as well, but good work. I do routine maintenance all my self. Brakes, tires rotations, oil changes, etc... If you find a good independant mechanic that likes Subaru's, let me know, I too am looking for one in the area... I'd recommend my buddy Steve's shop, but he's boycotted my Subaru since I had him replace a front wheel bearing this summer... Didn't go very well, but it's nice and quiet now... If another Sube showed up at his door, he'd never let me back in... If you're near Avon, you could try Iler Motors. I worked for Phil (owner) about 12+ years ago. He worked on most everything when I was there, I've not called him directly about working on mine. I've really not needed anything done other than routine 30k, 60k, etc maintenances. I still like the dealer for that, they do it every day and some of these Sube's are touchy when it comes to timing belts, coolant flushes, etc... On the heat shields, the last 2 fixes I used stainless steel hose clamps on the areas that were causing the buzzing... Really easy to do...

Not that I noticed. The rotors were stock ones... They were kinda rusty to begin with. Up here in NY they use a lot of salt on the roads... That may have caused their wear. The rotors were not warped at all. I'll have to advise on the new rotors. They were Wagner "premium" rotors, time will tell.

never had any dust on the wheels, never had to clean them, like I did with the "other" pads. In fact, I never had to pull apart the pads in the 50k that they were on the car. Initial bite is nice, not anything that would throw you out the window though...

I just replaced my first set of NAPA Ceramix brake pads the other day. They had about 50k on them and still had about another 10k left in life. That's great compared to the OEM pads, they only got me 23k, and they were down to the rivets. Needless to say, I replaced them with another set of Ceramic brake pads... This time needed a set of front rotors, they were kinda rusty and the braking surface was greatly reduced... Hopefully in 50k (132k) I'll be able to report the same.

go to NAPA, their filters are WIX, the better of the filters out there. avoid FRAM at all costs, bad things can happen...

The Oil Change is simple... On the 01, remove the front shroud (as I call it) it requires a flat headed screwdriver to pry out the plastic screws, then pop out the anchors. There are 3 across the front... The filter is easy to access, even if you have to "modify" it to get it off... The drain plug is a 17mm, I've always found that a box ended wrench works great. Every once in awhile you'd want to replace the gasket... I use NAPA oil and NAPA Gold Filters... The oil is good blend of Valvoline... The filters are WIX... All good stuff... Avoid FRAM filters at all costs... No GOOD !!! Enjoy your new car... You'll like it...

My folks have an AWD Vibe (same as the Matrix) and we have an Outback Wagon. I've driven the Vibe, it's nice, but not as nice as our Outback. The AWD makes a difference in the Vibe... This is my folks' 2nd Vibe, the first was FWD, and it seemed light... The Vibe AWD seems a little under powered and not as flexible as the Outback. My vote is for the Subaru, but that's just my 2 pennies worth...

Just get a decent set of all season tires and you'll be ok. I've not put snows on our OBW at all and have no complaints about winter driving... I've read that BFGoodrich Traction TA is a good mix of both all season and winter traction tire...

Had a set of Kelly Safari's on my 88 Dodge Dakota, nice tire... Had them mounted on a set of Crager Rims... Nice tires, ok truck... had a 4 banger in it...

Hey... welcome back to Inlet... ??? Thought you relocated to NC earlier this year... Glad to hear you're now all set for winter, at least in the footwear dept... Gonna take 1 last ride at the "Water Safari" ??? Or have they closed it already for the year ?? Enjoy those sneakers...

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20051005/ap_on_bi_ge/japan_toyota Typical GM, take what they want then sell it off... Maybe we as a collective group can rais enough funds to get the other 11.4% that GM still has for sale....

if the tip of your spark plug was oil covered, it could be a sign of a bad valve cover gasket... I know for sure that Oil on the plug wire is a sign of it, thinking that oil on the tip could/would/should be a sig too... as far as bad mileage... Had to gas up quite early this week too. Think I only got 240 miles before the light came on... Never had that before.. The last gas up was a SAMS CLUB... I'd have to say either cheap gas (not from SAMS) or "hurricane" blended gas...

tow a small popup camper (97 Coleman Laredo) with our 01 OBW. Never a problem. Just need to know how to handle it. I've towed with many small pickups (4 cyl S10, 6 cyl S10, V8 Silverado, 4 cyl Dakota) and aside from the Silverado, the 0BW has been the best. Didn't camp this summer (wife pregnant) but plan on it for next year a lot. Our typical trip has been 3-4 hours, etc. Mountains, and more...

I usually do 32 psi on ALL my tires... Not too hard, not too soft... When I was a mechanic, I was tought to do, while mounting 30 psi, then when it's put onto the car, it's 32 psi... 32 just seems to have stuck in my head when it comes to tires... That's my 2 pennies worth...

Just had this with my GMC, typically the BRAKE light indicates either the parking brake is applied (Maybe a little bit, enough to hit the light) OR a failure within the traditional braking system. In the case of my GMC, my pedal was squishy and took it until the floor to stop the truck. Luckily it's a stick, so I was able to downshift it to stop it... They found today I have a rotted out line and once replaced, it will need to be bled and then the light should be out... I would be wary and pay attention to ANY brake irregularities... Keep "us" posted...

oops, my bad... I calls it like I sees it... I was visualizing the air cleaner in my head and had it on the left... Not thinking that the right is generally the passenger side... Oh well... Thanks for clarifying...

On my 93 Wagon, it was on the left hand side (Passenger side) It was secured by a combination hex/phillips screw/bolt. I had to use hex, the phillips was stripped out... Not sure on the turbo ?? Hope that this helps...