Martinjmpr

Hi, folks. Just wanted to sign off and thank the many, many knowledgeable folks here at USMB for all their assistance while I owned my OBW. The g/f and I decided we needed a truck we could camp in (she hates sleeping on the ground) so the OBW has been traded in on a 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. I'm loving the Toyota but I did enjoy my Subaru. For all it's minor faults it was a sweet car, and I'd definitely recommend Subie to anyone looking for a good priced, reliable car with some surprisingly advanced features. In fact, when my g/f gets ready to replace her aging Chevy, I might try to push her towards a Legacy, Impreza or Forester. Anyway, thanks again and keep the rubber side down!

As I understand it the main reason for the fuse is for when you have the undersized spare tire on the car. Putting the car in FWD lessens the likelihood that the slightly different tire size will cause damage to the transaxle/AWD system (which, as we know, is very sensitive to differences in tire circumference.) As for the reason there is no appreciable difference in MPG, I think part of the reason is because the Automatics have a 90/10 split in power. IOW, under normal conditions, your front wheels are getting 90% of the power anyway. It's not until you start to slip that the % changes, up to a maximum of 50/50. So, even under the best of circumstances, you would only have a 10% difference in power used and that is probably consumed by all the spinning metal and extra weight (which is still there whether the rear wheels are under power or not.) Contrast this with the MT models which are 50/50 at all times (which also explains whey the MT models don't get any better MPG than the autos.) Presumably a MT car could benefit more from disabling the RWD, but of course the MT cars don't have the ability to disable the rear drive so it's a moot point.

I thought a CCR 2.5 motor was over $3k installed? Also, will CCR put a 2.2 into a vehicle that previously had a 2.5?

You know, we should have someplace on the forum where we can keep this kind of institutional knowledge alive. It would certainly be worth it to new members who come in here with questions or issues. Maybe it could be something like a general "Subuaru Repair and Service experiences, Good, Bad and Ugly" or something of that nature. I, for one, would be interested in knowing the different experiences of other Subie owners in the Denver area, since we have so many independent Subie shops here.

I don't know if this will help but last month I had a kind of funny problem with my car. I was driving along and all of a sudden I started to get this vibrating, chattering noise that varied with the speed of the car. It would come and go, but finally it got so loud I had to take it in. One thing I did before taking it in, though, was that I disabled the AWD with the fuse and sure enough, the noise went away. So, here I was thinking maybe my tranny or rear end were going bad, or maybe I had a bad CV joint on the back (do they even have CV joints on the back or just the front?) or that the U-joint in the driveshaft was bad. Either way I was anticipating major $$$ to get it repaired. So, took it to the dealer and it turns out that when I was driving on muddy roads back in October, I packed a bunch of mud into the tunnel that holds the rear driveshaft. That's all it was. Then they charged me $60 to clean it out. Actually, they should have charged me $5 to clean it out and $55 for being a *********************. Anyway, I'd say before you contemplate major work, make sure it's actually the rear end making the noise and not the driveshaft. Could save you some money.

In the Fall of '05 I was quoted about $1500 at Strictly Automotive, down at 10th and Santa Fe. I think that also came with a 1 year warranty but it may have been 6 months, not sure. It turned out my HG was fine but I then had my timing belt and water pump replaced there in February of 06. Total cost was just a hair under $1000, as they had to replace several of the T-belt pulleys, too. I've never heard of a comparo between the various independent Subie shops in the Denver area. I think the ones that have been in business the longest have the most to lose, reputation-wise.

Indeed, almost all cars have some "issues" that show up after a while. My last long-term vehicle, a 1990 Mitsubishi Montero, started burning oil excessively at around 80k miles. This was a well known problem with the 3.0l V-6 motor, caused by the valve guides slipping down, or something like that. It was so well known that any decent Mitsubishi shop had a "service package" for exactly this issue. Cost was around $1500, P&L included. I finally had it done around 130k and the truck was running fine when I sold it for $3300 at 147k. Now, $1500 for repairs sounds like a lot, but it depends on how you think about it. It wasn't that long ago - maybe 20-25 years - that cars had 5 digit odometers because by the time a car hit 100,000 miles, it was usually ready for a complete rebuild or at the very least some serious work. Nowadays we routinely expect our vehicles to last 150k, 200k, or even beyond. But every mechanical thing is going to wear out or break eventually, especially a car which gets so much abuse just from the activities of daily driving. The other thing to think about is this: If a car has over 100k on it, it's usually paid for. IOW, you aren't making car payments on it. So what is $1500 - maybe 5 car payments? Hell, nowadays, some people are paying upwards of $500/ month on a new car. So just imagine that you are making 3 to 5 "car payments", and after that, you have an engine that will last at least another 100k. No head gasket issues for me yet (knock wood!) but at 120k, if I were to have such an issue, I'd bite the bullet, have the work done (there are plenty of independent Subie shops in Colorado and most of them will do a 2.5 HG for about $1300) and drive on. I wouldn't be happy about it, but if the alternative was getting myself into a new vehicle that would cost me $350-$400 a month for the next 5 years, it's a no brainer. The car is so good in every other respect that I'm willing to give Subaru the benefit of the doubt on this one.

Yeti and Nipper: Why were your engines replaced? Was there a major failure or does it just get to the point where, after a certain number of miles, so many things need replacing or repairing that it's more cost effective to just replace the whole thing with a remanufactured one? And what are the costs on a remanufactured engine? Assuming I don't have the skills to put it in myself (I don't, nor do I have the tools or the space) what would it run me, about $2500?

Mine has hooks on both ends. Yes, it's more dangerous but also much easier to use. If I was a 4-wheeler and pulled people out (or needed to be pulled out) on a regular basis, then I'd probably invest in the two-loop kind (although in order for those to work one vehicle, at least, has to have a tow hitch or pintle.) Really, it's a calculated risk. I've literally only used this tow rope 2-3 times in 20 years, so I'm willing to accept a little extra risk if it makes it easier to use the rope. And besides, even if you have the two-loop kind, you still have the risk that it might not be the tow strap that fails, it might be the point where it attaches to a vehicle - the tow hitch or whatever - which could still result in a piece of metal flying away from the vehicle at near bullet speeds. So the safest thing to do is have everyone stand clear when using a strap. Drivers in their vehicles with the doors and windows shut and everybody else at a safe distance.

Should be getting ready for it's 3rd timing belt, maybe? 105,000 and 210,000, IIRC. I had my pulleys replaced when they replaced the T-belt, it added a couple hundred onto the total but if it keeps the car in good running shape for another 100k miles, it was worth it (hell, $300 is just one average car payment, right?) Good to hear that these cars can last this long. I just turned over 120k on mine and need to keep it at least another year. The only other car I've ever owned for this many miles was a 1990 Mitsubishi Montero that I bought in 1992 with 18,000 miles and sold in 1999 with 145,000. I'm hoping to beat that record with the Outback (1999 model, bought with 42k in 2003.)

Since I'm replacing my tires next month anyway, I'll probably get some kind of dedicated snow tires. Then, come springtime, I'll buy a set of steel rims and have all-seasons mounted on them for the rest of the year. Kind of a PITA to have to swap tires, but I really don't want to have to face the kind of snow we had last week without something better than those all season tires. I'm also going up a size (from 205/70s to 205/75s) to get just a smidgen more clearance. The actual difference is about .8" diameter, which means .4" radius, so I don't anticipate any clearance issues.

Since we had our 5-year blizzard last week, I've been thinking a lot about tire chains or cables. As I understand it most modern cars don't have the fender clearance to allow chains to work, which is why cables are the recommended alternative. While I saw a lot of trucks/SUVs with chains on the road (they were about the only ones moving) I don't recall seeing any cars with those tire cables. I did own a set for an old (2wd) Ford Ranger pickup I owned when I lived in Laramie, but I never actually used them. One thing that seemed like a drawback was that there was some kind of a chart that indicated that they could only be expected to go 20 or 30 miles before breaking, the idea I guess being that they're for emergencies only, you use them to get to some kind of shelter and then hunker down until the roads are in better shape. So what's the consensus for Subarus? Do they really add much over a decent set of snow tires? Difficult to put on and/or keep chained? Do you run them on all fours wheels or just on the fronts? I like the idea of something that will keep me from getting stuck again but if these cables are pretty worthless then I won't worry about them.

In this case the snow was a good 6-10" above the bumper, which was the problem. It's not a question of traction, as the poster above said, if your wheels are not in contact with the road, all the drive in the world won't help.

Can someone recommend a good junkyard in the Denver metro area that has a good selection of parts for late model Subies? I really need to get dedicated snow tires but before I do that I want to get a set of 15" steel wheels from an Impreza or Forester.

Very few tried to get out. Between the deep snow, the blowing wind and the fact that they'd be going uphill, it's a little too dicey. I even saw a couple of jeeps with 10-15" of snow on them - they never even tried to move.

That picture doesn't tell the whole story. There was a drift about 2' high behind the rear bumper and the snow elsewhere is well over a foot. Essentially my tires had no traction because there was so much snow packed underneath the car that the tires weren't touching the ground. Also gotta remember the 1st Gen Outback doesn't have rear LSD like the 2nd and 3rd Gens do. As for tires, that's part of the problem as well: Goodyear Viva 2s, pretty good overall, but they're at the end of their service life (bought them in 2003 with 61k on the odometer, car just went over 120k yesterday.) I've been planning on getting new tires for a while - right now I'm looking at an aggressive snow tire in 205/75R 15 size (up from the stock 205/70's I have now) for a bit more clearance.

.......But when it comes to deep snow, a car is still a car. See the photo attached. Fortunately a snowplow truck came by and I got him to pull me out (he was about to shrug his shoulders and say "I don't have a strap" but I pulled my strap out of the back of the car.) Oh, yeah, and I'd like to plant a big sloppy kiss on the engineer who decided to put a tow hook under the left front side of the OBW! Made pulling me out a snap! Yup, we're getting hammered here. About 12" on the ground now, high winds causing drifts 2-3' deep and of course visibility sucks. I got sent home from work as soon as I got in and I've been directed to call tomorrow before heading in to work. Ah, Winter in Colorado! Believe it or not, I love this stuff, even when it's inconvenient!

Just a quickie, I'll apologize in advance if it's already been asked, but am I right in assuming that the (steel) 15" wheels from a 90's - 00's Impreza or Forester will fit fine on my '99 OBW? The only thing that makes me wonder is that I know some of the Imprezas have drum brakes on the rear (not sure about the Forester.) Reason I ask is because (1) I had a flat the other day, put on the ridculous mini-spare and thought "that thing has got to go!" and (2) I'd really like to get a set of dedicated snow tires to keep in the garage and I see no point in spending extra $$$ for alloy wheels when steel ones will work fine. Anyway, advice/information is appreciated. Martin

My only quibble would be to say that anyone who thinks Subarus are primarily a New England phenomenon has obviously never been to Colorado.

I'd be interested in the kind of MPG you got on the next tank after the 39mpg tank. Whenever I've had what appeared to be unusually high MPG the next tank was invariably below normal. What happens is that some gas pumps have different settings to shut off the flow of gas when the tank is full. Some will let you fill all the way up the filler neck others will quit when there is still room for a gallon or two of gas in the tank. So, say you drive 300 miles, fill the tank and it only takes 7.5 gallons and you say "woo hoo! I got 40 mpg!" In reality, though, you actually used 9.5 gallons with an average MPG of 31.5, it's just that the pump "kicked off" when there was still 2 gallon of space left in the tank. When you fill up again, all that MPG you "gained" from your last stop will be lost. That's why the only way you can truly know is to average. One tank at High MPG doesn't really mean anything. Having said that, I do believe it's possible to get better MPG in most cars, but driving at an average speed of 85 is not the way to do it. Most cars reach their MPG peak at 50-60 mph. If you really want to see phenomenal MPG in your car, then the next time you take a long highway trip, set the cruise control at 55. I've consistently gotten 29-31 mpg in an AWD 2.5 OBW with an auto tranny by doing this. It only works in the summer (due, I'm sure, to the fact that our winter-blend gas has higher ethanol content) but it does work. Of course, some people aren't happy unless they're going 80+ mph, but hey, if they've got "money to burn" then power to them!

Never been to Maine but in Colorado you can't swing a dead cat without hitting 10 Subarus. I think we have the highest or 2nd highest per-capita Subaru ownership in the US.

How about the wheels? Will Forester/Impreza 15" steel wheels work?

Hmm, well after starting a new job and looking around at a bunch of new vehicles (new Subies, Honda Element, Chevy HHR among them) I've decided to keep my old '99 OBW. Basically, I reasoned that one of the reasons I got a Subaru is their reputation for longevity, so if I trade it in now when it "only" has 118k on it, then I'm not getting some of the value I paid for. Plus it still runs fine and on a trip to Yellostone NP last weekend, it got over 29mpg three tanks in a row! And also I hate making car payments. But, as with any 7 year old/120k car, it's got some issues I hope the good folks here can help me with (as they've been so helpful in the past) First off, the local independent dealer says that it's going to need new plugs and wires soon. Not a problem, I figured as much. But he wants $250 to change them. I've never worked on a flat-4 motor but are they that hard to change the plugs on? Are special tools needed? Any tips? Next, I've got a couple of dash lights burned out - the one behind the AC controls (I understand this is a common one) but also the LED that lights up when the cruise control is turned on. How difficult is it to change these bulbs? It's a PITA when I can't tell whether my CC is on or not (and the CC works fine, which is why I assume it's just the indicator light.) Third, the drivers seat is crushed down - can anyone recommend an upholsterer in the Denver area that can re-stuff it? I don't want to put in a new seat, I'd rather just fix the one that's in it now. Fourth, it's going to need new tires soon. I'm currently running stock sized 205/70-15s, but have thought it might make more sense to go to a 205/75 to give me a smidgen more of ground clearance, and since my speedo is already registering too high, I figure it will help to correct that problem, too. Has anyone gone to 205/75's and if so, were there any problems? Fifth, speaking of tires, I really want to get a full-sized spare. Will the steel wheel of the 1st Generation Forester/Impreza fit on the Outback? I don't see any point in getting another alloy wheel, steel wheels are fine for the spare and probably cheaper, too. IIRC some of the Imprezas/Foresters had drum brakes in the rear vs the Legacy's disks - any clearance or offset issues to think about? I'm also contemplating a new sound system, but that's going to have to wait until all the important stuff is done. So, any input/experience/suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks Martin

Well, over the last 4 - 5 months or so I'd given some serious thought to trading in the old Outback. She's got 115k on her now, and she's looking a little sad. But after seeing what was out there (I looked at the Honda Element, the newer Outbacks and Foresters, and the Chevy HHR) I ultimately decided that I'm better off just sticking with the car I already own! She runs great, gets good MPG and does everything I need her to do. Besides, one reason I bought a Subaru was because they last a long time, so it would defeat the purpose to trade it in when it's got less than 120k on it. So, since I'm not getting a new car, I figured I'd "spruce up" the old gal a bit, maybe get a little of that "new car" feel to it. I've got an upcoming trip to Yellowstone planned for this weekend, but after that, I thought I'd look into getting the car fully detailed. So my question is, has anyone had their Subie detailed in the Denver Metro area and can you recommend a good place? I don't mind spending a bit of money to have it done right, but I want it fully done: Carpets cleaned, even under the seats where it's almost impossible to clean, seats cleaned, etc. I'm not so sure about the outside, as I feel fairly competent to wash and wax the outside of the car, but I'd really like to give the inside a thorough cleaning. Can anyone make any recommendations?

I know this should be in the marketplace, but I get the impression that a lot of folks don't go over there (or even know where it is) so I'll ask here: Does anyone have a working cupholder (the one that sits between the AC controls and the stereo) for a 2nd gen (95-99) Legacy? The cupholder in my OBW is broken and I'm not sure where to go to get another one (except not from Subaru - I'm sure they'd want $150!) It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work. Anybody who has one can email me at martinjmpr - at - yahoo.com Thanks. Martin