PAezb

Any possibility of mounting it behind the bed liner and fashioning/installing a flush compartment cover for it?

I'm sure Subaru in their engineering designs considered the cooling requirements when they specified the vehicle's towing restrictions. I've read posts from a number of people who have been towing with their older Subaru (some going beyond the recommended weight limits) without extra cooling having no trouble (including mountains and hot travel areas). That said, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have some extra cooling capacity added to the stock system - if nothing else but to give some peace of mind.... No listings for 2005 Legacy Wagon on etrailer.com, but here are recommendations for the Baja: http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?model=Baja&image1.x=13&image1.y=6&image1=submit&category=tran&year=2005&make=Subaru&t1=&h=

Interestingly, when I did the first change at 90K (the original oil), the front was fairly clean, and the rear was darker and more dirty, with some minute glitter in the oil you could see as you swish the oil around in the drain pan. Magnets had some crude on them too. Anyone know if subaru uses synthetic gear oil at the factory? I don't beleive they do, so I'm attributing the 2nd cleaner drain to Mobil's quality and being a synthetic.

Just drained and filled the front/rear differentials on my 96 OBW at 193K miles. Must say, the Mobil 1 synthetic 75w-90 was nice and clear and I put it in at 90K. It has me wondering if changing the gear oil is necessary for the life of the car. How many here change their gear oil and how often?

I just went through this last month with my 96 OBW after a lot of research on the web on the topic. I bought a quart of the pure acetone from Walmart and added 2.5 to 3 ounces to every tank fill (10 - 12 gals typically). Conclusion: I believe it improve my gas mileage by 1 to 2 mpgs, if that. I typically get around 24 mpg, and I was seeing an increase to a little over 25 mpg. I would say that the engine seem to run just a tad smoother (perhaps because of the higher octane acetone adds to the fuel) and certainly over a month's time of use I now have very clean fuel injectors. I was hoping for better mileage improvement, but given the modern fuel injection systems on these cars are set about as lean as they can go, I'm not surprised. Probably would do better on cars that have carburators. So, the cost savings along with the hassle of having to add it to the tank on fillups is'nt worth it to me, other than cleaning out the fuel systems (acetone is a base component of some of commercial fuel system cleaners BTW). Good luck, I hope you can do better.

Consider also that your fuel mileage may drop a little and you'll need to use premium fuel or octane booster. Given the gas prices going up... every little bit adds to the operating costs...

According to the tips on etrailer's website, no... "Tech Tips: Transmission fluid can not be over cooled, but it is critical in extreme cold conditions to allow the vehicle to warm up before driving. " (bottom of page): http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=E&Category_Code=TRAN It would be nice to have a bypass built-in to go around the cooler in the winter months here in the north.

http://www.etrailer.com

Having purchased numerous times from Jason/Auburn and periodically giving them a plug here on the forum for exceptional customer service and pricing, it's too bad many local dealerships can't or wont follow their example (their loss). As for the website, it may be that it's a method that the new ownership doesn't want to practice. I found it kind of clunky anyway, and always called Jason directly.

Any website links you can offer? Perhaps there may be a few of us interested in this where a group purchase might be beneficial...

On both OBW I own, I went aftermarket because the hitch was considerable less in price than the OEM and built beefier with higher towing specs (even though it exceeds the towing capicity of the vehicle). I agree that the OEMs generally look better installed.

I installed the pigtail adaptor for an 05 OBW. The connector/receptacle is behind the rear driver-side trim corner panel (you'll need to remove the side floor foam panels in the cargo area to be able to reach and feel underneath the wall trim for the connector). This site carries the wiring adaptor and instructions (installation pics right on the website for your MY OBW). http://www.etrailer.com Click on 'trailer hitches' then select your year/make/model, it will the list all the hitches available for your car as well as links for the wiring adaptors (there are 2 adaptors available).

The problem is due to where the temp sensor is located and not reacting fast enough to the cabin's temperture changes. This article may help, as I remember reading it some time ago. Looks like there is definitely interest in applying the change/mod to legacy's and outbacks as well: http://www.geocities.com/samiam_68/SubaruCCS/SSC_Fix.htm

Just wondering if you got the cabin air filter option installed? I would imagine that a filter cartridge would reduce the overall air-flow at least a little bit.

I thought changing the timing chain on the H6 was not necessary in the normal life of the engine, unlike the 2.5 4cyl that requires the timing belt to be replaced every 105Kmiles. I can see doing the seals and o-rings and the like when needed....

Yeah I know, the inverter itself consumes power, and then there is quality or "noise" of the output sine wave to consider (modified, pure, square). I figure its more than most here want to know....:-p And of course there are DC to DC converters to add to the topic, which are much more efficient for things like running laptops in cars (which I should be using instead of an inverter).......

Well, it is. Its maximum, full load output capacity. But what it puts out it has to take in. You just have to remember there are two power sides to an inverter - the 12 volt DC supply side and the 110/115 volt AC output side: Supply side - 500 watts divided by 12 volts DC = 41.6 amps (DC) Output side - 500 watts divided by 115 volts AC = 4.3 amps (AC) Again, this is at "full load" capacity. If you plug in a 115volt AC appliance on this inverter that uses only 250 watts, it will only use half of the full load values: in this case, 20.8 DC amps on the supply side, 2.15 AC amps on the output side. Most cars that have 12 volt cigarette/accessory sockets use wiring and are fused for no more 20 amps (DC). Thats why you don't see many inverters rated above 400watts with a 12 volt adaptor 'plug' - because at full-load they'd draw too much 12 volt DC current for the average 12 volt socket to handle. Most of the higher wattage inverters use allegator clips to connect directly to the battery. Sorry for being so long winded on this - it's the electronic's major in me that likes to ramble on....

If you decide to buy one, contact Jason at Auburn Subaru out of Washington (1stsubaruparts.com), mention this forum. 20% over cost on all parts. Call 1st Subaru Parts Toll Free at: 866-528-5282

Might want to read through this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7590&highlight=speed+sensor Tranny VSS looks like and it is located here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=313961&postcount=34 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=67309&postcount=10

Your statment is correct, but maybe in another way, it is better to say you are not necessarily pulling the full 500watts off the inverter for whatever load source is connected to the inverter. General rule is, since most 12volt DC to 115volt AC inverters require 10 to 15 volts DC to operate, is to divide the full rated capacity by 10: So, a 500watt inverter divided by 10 would cause a draw of 50amps on the DC supply side (at the full 500watt load - possibly a 120volt coffee maker, hair dryer, power tools may draw that, or more). That obviously makes the 50amp DC an overload possibility on a 20amp rated 12volt DC socket (at full load). I don't think car coolers in general draw too much current, maybe a couple of amps? (DC). I blew the bridge wire on the back of the cigarette socket (96' OBW) running my Toshiba Satellite A75 (A power hog by laptop standards) off a 350watt inverter

There is what I call a "bridge" wire that is connected between two posts on the back of the socket. It acts like a secondary fuse and is heat sensitive to avoid prolong heat buildup and possible fire in and around the socket. This wire appears to have the properties of electrical solder as touching it with a soldering iron it will quickly melt. Replace the bridge wire with a small section of 60/40 solder (tricky, but can be done) or regular wire - which will defeat the heat-sensitive protection the original "bridge" wire provided, so you'll need to be more mindful of the kind of power draw you're using from the socket in the future. Most common accessories (cell phones, pagers, palm pilots, mp3 players, radar detector, GPS, etc.) designed with a 12volt plug should be fine. Its the coffee makers, hair dryers, power inverters that may cause problems - you should use the rear accessory socket which is supposedly wired and fused for these heavier power demands. If I remember correctly, on 2004 MY and earlier, the front cigarette lighter is fused (at the driver side fuse box) for 15 or 20amp, and the rear accessory socket is 20amp or greater - I need to recheck the specs and report back. I know on my 05 OBW the front cigarette lighter is fused for something less, like 10amp, because I had to replace the fuse (again the main fuse, not the bridge wire), which blew right away when attempting to run my 350watt converter. I need to check the fuse specs again on the 05 also, but I know the 05 was fused for less than my 96' (being somewhat disgusted with Subaru for doing that on the new models...) Anyone with their owner's manual handy report on the fuse ratings for 2004 and earlier (should all be the same) and 05/06 model years (are different)?

Paul Harvey of ABC news radio did a story awhile back of a Police chase with a Subaru doing 140mph (didn't mention the model although I assume it to have been a WRX/Sti). I think the stock 250hp turbo in the legacy is capable of that (the speedo gauge is marked up to 160mph if that means anything). Of course, the aerodymics and stability would be something to worry about if the car is not set up for those speeds (especially an Outback with all that air going underneath that ground clearance, the GT would be better). And dont forget the always possible wheel bearing or tire malfunction at that speed - good night nurse. Someone here must know what the WRX is capable of. I be interested to find out what the stock H6 could do also. EDIT UPDATE: Well, a google search once again led me to cars101 website, check this link out, go all the way to the bottom of the page. There is a reference for the 05/06 2.5 Turbo GT maxing at 136mph being electronically limited: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2005.html See also: http://www.modernracer.com/subarulegacygt.html Other searches for the H6 puts its limit at 151mph or 243km/h In any case, that should be enough to get you to the airport on time....

Mid to late 90s and possibly early 200x were Panasonic. With the new model years Subaru may have changed vendors, especially with the "integrated" stereo and climate control clusters. Call a parts department at a Subaru dealership, they probably could tell you. Edited Update: Did a google search for "stereo manufacturer in 2006 subaru", check this website: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2006.html **Standard features on the 2006 Legacy 2.5i wagon and sedan** AM/FM/CD player, R/RW discs, 120w, 6 speakers, with bass, mid-range, and treble adjustments (by Panasonic). The Baja is most like the same...

It's recommended, but not required (unlike Turbos which are *required* to use higher octane). Run the lowest octane, but not past 87, that your engine runs fine with without balking (pinging/knocking). If your prone to a lot of "spirited" driving, you might want to run higher octane once in awhile.

2005 MY (North America) 2700lbs with an H4 3000lbs with an H6