PAezb

I'm replacing both rear springs and struts on the 05 OBW at 95K, but I have done a lot of towing so the rear suspension is starting to get soft. As mentioned above, how the car has been used and driven will play into when the components need to be replaced. Subaru OEM struts - $89/ea springs - $34/ea from Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru. I should mention that I still running on the originals on the 96 OBW - 263K miles! They're soft too, but *not too* bouncy, and I perfer the ride compared to way it rode when it was youngster.

Dont mean to hijack this thread but I thought since this is on the subject of car batteries I'd like to make a product recommendation for a battery charger. Just purchased one of these in an attempt to bring back to life a Interstate SRM 29 deep cycle battery that is used in an RV trailer (I carelessly forgot to pull it out for storage for the winter and it discharged and semi-froze:eek:) Another brand charger that shall remain nameless could not do the job. I've only used it for this one battery so far. Thought I'd have to replace the battery, but this charger's rejuvination and equalization features brought it back to life. Highly recommended based on the above: http://www.pacificbattery.com/schauer_cm16a_charger.html

Yep, try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (hit the flashers switch and step on the brake pedal to drain all energy from the system) If that doesn't work, when you can, take it to a DIY carwash and wash around the inner wheels - may have snow, ice, dirt, or other debris interferring with one of the wheel sensors. If that doesn't work, you may need to check for sensor, tonering, or wiring damage. Lastly, the ABS will often come on when the battery voltage is low and the alternator is failing. Is the battery icon in the instrutment display also lit?

Uhmmmm, well I cant remember on my 96, you might be right, but I can tell you my O5 OBXT definitely has them on the rear diff, and a copper-ring for the front. I just did mine last summer.

You can always tip the entire car on it's nose/side Good advice though. Also, remember to use new crush washers when putting the drain/fill plugs back in. I've done the diffs on the 96 OBW twice now, the first time at 100K, I remember the plugs needing some extra force - a 30inch pipe over the handle of a 1/2 drive. Had to use some force but they finally did break free. On the newer MY05 to date the plugs now require Hex and torx drives - make sure to buy good quality ones....

Your improvement sounds about right. The O2 sensor from bad to good should yield about a %10 improvement in mpg. Should be good to go for the next 100K.

Yeah, it is coincidence, the boot is actually ripped all the way around (see pic attachment). I have bought the front axles from MWE for the 96 Outback, so I am familiar with them - it is an option. I just figured under a 100K on an XT I may want to go with a new Subaru OE. I'm having a dealer do the t-belt and plugs anyway so I'll them do the boot or axle. If you were in the area I'd ask you if you would do the entire job

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=703080

Being it's Motor Trend's 2009 Sport Utility Of The Year speaks to, at least in part, to why Subaru sales are up when every other manufacturer is down. I still would wait for 2010 and see if the Turbo Diesel will be available. Wonder if the vehicle frame, brakes, suspension will indeed be designed to match the towing capacity of the engine (from a 2.0 4 banger - amazing!) http://www.motortrend.com/oftheyear/suv/112_0812_2009_subaru_forester_suv_of_the_year/index.html

Something else I'd like to share, slightly off topic. I'm also planning to finally put in the transmission cooler on this car as I tow alot. What I discovered in looking for the fluild lines is that Subaru has now routed the fluid through a independent filter that sits *in* the front driver-side fender, behind where the battery sits. In the attachment, you are looking at the empty battery compartment and you can see the filter in the top back of the pic, with the writting on it. Now this makes accessing the line very easy to install the cooler, but it isn't it odd to place the filter in the fender? I mean, what if even a small fender bender were to occur in that area? Poor design IMO:rolleyes:

If you think thats insane, I'm getting ready to do the T-belt and spark plug replacement, a local Subaru dealer here in the Twin Cities, whom will remain nameless for now, gave me a written estimate on parts and labor. Just for the parts, the belt alone is $175 and the iridium plugs are $30 each:eek: Jason's prices are more reasonable: 13028AA240 t-belt $110.66 22401AA670 spark plugs $11.77ea Damn local dealer labor rates are getting outragous too - $115/hr:-\

Well, I began noticing a oil burning smell on a trip awhile back on my 05 OBW-XT. I have had some trouble with the purolator oil filters leaking around the seal under pressure in the past, and this was just after I change the oil so I figured that was most likely the problem. Hadn't been a big deal as the body of the filters when they did leak was very minor. However, I finally did an inspection and found that the smell was coming from grease splattered on the front CAT from a split in the drive boot right in front of it. Now, I have probably put a couple of thousand miles since I first noticed the smell. Contacting Jason at Scarff Subaru, he thinks that all I will need is the boot/grease kit to replace instead of purchasing a whole new drive axle. My concern is the amount of time and contamination that has occurred to the CV, figuring it's safer to just replace the whole axle. Price is $300 for the axle vs. $66 for a new boot and grease. The car has about 93K on her. Opinions welcome.

I've always been statisfied with my purchases at etrailer.com: http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?category=hitch&year=2001&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&t1=&h=e&style=Outback+Wagon&ob=&so= Keep in mind the total tow weight and tongue weight - with emphasis on the later. I'd be leary to tow that much weight without a secondary brake system to assist (i.e. trailer brakes - requiring the installation of a brake controller in the vehicle). Renting or borrowing a truck for this single purpose may be the way to go.

You might want to consider purchasing the reseal kit for your vehicle. Around $20 (per axle) from a Suburau discounter. Given it's age, might be time to replace all the boots and piston seals. Easy enough to do while you're working on the brakes anyways.

When placing a parts order with Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru last summer I had asked him about any problems with the 2005+ Turbos - he mentioned that he had seen a couple come in destroyed - apparantly due to dirty filter mechanism on the turbo from not changing the oil regularly (3700 miles Subaru requires). I guess small contaminants can starve or mess up that precision bearing in the turbo:-\ Turbo owners, make sure to stay on the maintenance schedule....

Ditto, I have the MWE replacements for both front axles on the 96 obw (250K mi) done around 235K. No problems, and they're a good value for replacements.

Well, I'm probably going to get burned by other members who are going to respond that you should by the Subaru branded OEM. But I've had good luck with the Denso's, typically getting 100K to 140K before replacement. http://www.sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=1305548&pid=2149 This retailer also carries the Bosch and NGK brands, just go back and reselect the brand preference.

Ok all you wanting to upgrade your ride's sound system - here's something I bet no Subaru has yet... Just for fun http://www.neatorama.com/2008/12/19/chryslers-1956-highway-hi-fi-phonograph/

Should be the forward O2 Sensor, mounted front on the forward catalytic convertor nearest the engine. On my outbacks, you can see part of it looking down from the passenger side in the engine bay. Not sure if the Foresters are configured differently but I wouldn't think so. Edit: Looks like on the forester, it is located on the up-pipe below the manifold, just before the front catalytic, though the text in the link states it is in the front CAT. SubaruPartsForYou.com has a diagram here, not the greatest.... http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=2346 Edit: A better link and diagram (thanks to Nipper's find on this site) http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_18/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_1/

I own the equivilent of the following purchased at HF, got it on sale for $64 a couple of years ago, normally sells for around $89. I see HF is now carrying several Cen-Tech models. Mine appears to be well made and has served me well. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94217 http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=obd11&Submit=Go

Oil Pressure Switch maybe? I just replaced mine because it was leaking, thought it didn't cause the oil light to come on. Have to assume it was still functioning even though it was leaking.

Thanks!, thats extremely helpful - I'll check it in the next couple of days as the weather is expected to warm up here. In the meantime, I just discovered another little issue, oil leak in the vincinity of what I believe is an oil pressure or temperture sensor (top front of the block, underneath the alternator, but above the cam position sensor - single wire with spade clip connector.) I've checked and tighten the sensor a bit, took to a local car was and used the degreaser spray to clean the engine off. A day later oil all over that sensor and small pools of it sitting under on the block :-\ :-\ So, I'm going to clean it off once again and watch it very carefully... God I just love the problems that come with old age..

Yep, would like to do some diagnostics myself, but without some reference on what/where to test signals makes it more difficult, especially in cold weather (Minnesota). Thats what I was asking in my original post if anyone could provide some info or guidance. I do have an Ohm meter.

I have a similar issue with my 05 OBW XT. Problem was identified by a local dealer when it was in for a warranty wheel bearing replacement. One of the ABS sensors has gotten chewed up a little with all the driving I'd been doing on the backroads of northern minnesota. All the gravel dust and debris gets inbetween the sensor and the tone ring I guess and causes the damage (degraded ability to read the signal from the tone ring, and dirt or debris on it's face can block the signal if the sensor is weak). That's how I know about cruise being disabled when the ABS comes on, evidently a safty feature Subaru started to implement in 2005 models. The dealer has quoted me around $350 to replace the sensor. However, my issue is very intermittant with the ABS light coming on maybe a couple of times a year. I simply take the car into a car wash and make sure to clean the inside around the wheels really well to insure getting the area around the sensor clean. The issue has also cleared itself after driving in a heavy rain, once it's dry, the lights go out. I'm just waiting when I bring it in for its timing belt maintenance interval and will have it done then. So try a good underbody and wheel wash, and see what happens.

Thanks for the feedback. I may check with a couple of local dealerships to see if they will at least ballpark the cost of diagnostics. Cant imagine it could be more than $100. In the meantime, it's driveable, and I suppose I could just leave it that way and run it until it, or other issue arise. It's been a good ride. 14 years, no rust but some dings and some front fender damage (my bad). Still has it original suspension (struts and springs) and exhaust - amazing! Uses oil but still gets 20 to 27 mpg - still fairly cheap to drive. Am hoping to make it to 300K before her retirement without putting a lot more cash into her, but that may be wishful thinking.