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On 05 MY on up, the cruise control will be purposely disabled whenever the CEL or ABS lamps are lit. Check for codes with an OBDII scanner. Most likely a dirty or damage ABS sensor component at the wheel. Do you travel on gravel roads much?

OK, 96 OBW with 250K, auto tranny, recently got a P0748 - Pressure Solenoid A Electrical Failure. The symptoms caused by this are (1) a slightly harsher upshift from 1st to 2nd, and (2) No braking presser when manually downshifting from Drive to 3rd at highway speed - tach just drops down to idle. Other than that, she still shifts fine in all gears, and brakes in downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, and 2nd to 1st. Perfectly driveable but with the annoying CEL that returns eventually after clearing with OBDII scanner. Have done a tranny flush and added a half can of Seafoam TransTune. Have check all engine bay transmission connectors, disconnecting and clean with electrical cleaner,reconnected, and check and cleaned ground connections. No change. Connected Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru who did some quick research and says it could be 1 of 2 solenoids, one is $100, the other is $300, and estimated 3.5 hours labor. Could be the TCU as well. My ability to dig into this myself is limited as I dont have access to my tools or a place to work on the car. I'm handy with a VOM but have no reference on how to check the signals on the connectors in the bay or at the TCU. I'm a little reluctant to put a lot more money into her as I just finished a couple of months ago replacing the front axles, front wheel bearing, VSS, O2 sensor, accessory belts, coolant, hoses, thermostat. A service rep at local independent suggest just to drive her as is as long as it still shifts in all gears Suggestions or advice on what other diagnostics I can perform would be appreciated.

Regarding the NAPA - some quick googling came up with the NAPA Legend 7535 as being a top choice - around $65 - but I don't know how current it is. http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(wew3udvpoa2zumittxzv5i45))/Results.aspx?Ntt=bat%207535&Ntk=Keyword&N=0&Nty=1&D=bat%207535&Dn=0&Dk=1&Dp=3 http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/682967.pdf http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/batbrand.htm Regarding Interstate - both the Interstate stores and Tires Plus here in MN are selling them at $98. The salesman I spoke to at the direct store stated that prices on the "lead" in the batteries are going up due to shortages:rolleyes:

I have Interstates in my both my 96 OBW and my travel trailer - good batteries, but when I recently priced one for the 05 OBW and found them to be selling at almost $100, I got turned off on the brand. So I'm searching also. I haven't found the issue yet but I believe Consumer Reports rated one of the NAPA batteries at the top, just not sure which model/series. Anyone?

Sorry Nipper, I do also respect your expertise in various posts but I gotta disagree with ya on this. Just installed my 2nd replacement (front) on the 96 OBW, 250K, both have been Denso's OE, not purchased thru Subaru. No problems... http://www.sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=1269952&pid=2149 I'd try running a couple of tanks of another brand gasoline perferably 87 or 89 octane if you have been running higher octane. Also consider areas selling "winter blends" or "oxygenated" fuels can have an effect. my .02 worth....

Something else I'd like to add - as cars get older, so does the wiring and electrical connections. I would suspect changes in weather temps might add to it as well. Since you indicated the tranny has had work done, disturbing the wiring harness and/or connected may have cause a open/intermittant connection. You might try checking all connections, even the TCM control fuse and reseat it in the fuse block. Just a thought.

I'm sure there is but have no idea what it is. Having replaced the tranny mounted VSS twice now in the lifetime of the 96 OBW I can tell you that when they begin to fail it can effect shifting, symptoms of torque bind, etc. For now, I would simple disconnect the harness from the sensor and let the default ECU/TCU (limp mode) mappings take over. It wont hurt anything, you just wont have a speedometer or odometer while disconnected, but the tach will still work. And you can find out if it will shift into third without the VSS. If it does then you can start suspecting the VSS....

Have you ever replaced the VSS on the tranny? When it begins to fail it can send erronious signal pulses to the ECU/TCU. Escpecially in the 0 to 20mph range, even slight variations can cause any "bucking" you may be experiencing. How's the speedometer needle look when accelerating?

Enjoy! http://video.kenblockracing.com/flash/small_player/preloader.swf?vendor_id=204&media_id=9183&bgcolor=FFFFFF&autoplay=0;);)

Thought I'd share my findings on a product I recently used for restoring an old rusted shotgun and some shop tools. The product is called Evapo-Rust, available at local stores or online. It has no harsh chemicals, it's bio-degradeble, wont harm the original metal. I'v had impressive results using this stuff. It's mainly to be used as a "soak", but there are instructions to use it as a spray-on as well (I have not tried this yet). I don't know how well it would work as a rust penetrating application (frozen or seized parts) but if you need to remove rust from tools, car parts, or whatever can be dropped into and bathed in the product - it works as advertised. http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94217 I've used the Cen-Tech 94217 for a couple of years now and it has worked well for me. Bought mine on sale and HF has sales on these periodically - I think I paid around $63-68 for it. The ones listed here appears to be newer models: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=scanner&Submit=Go See also: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94169

Yeah, kinda defeats the functionality of AWD in nasty weather and road conditions...:-\

If I remember from my days working in a bike shop, both Yakama and Thule shoud have a number identifier on the lock cores. You should be able to go to any retailer that carries those brands and purchase new keys. If the the rack was purchased thru Subaru (Yakama), they should be able to order replacement keys. Example on core number info on Thule's website: http://www.thuleracks.com/product_locks.asp?Key=true&type=thule

This *might* help you... http://www.etrailer.com/faq_wiring.aspx

You'll have to confirm, but I believe the Zerex G-05 has a very similar chemical make-up.

I run the Yokohama's H4s on my 05 OB XT. Went with the "H" rating to improve tread life over the "V" rating. Got 45k of "good" tread life on my first set, and just had a new set put on last week. In hot or cold, dry or wet weather, or any combination thereof, they grip and handle well. Another plus is they are quiet and comfortable. But if you drive em on anything frozen, all bets are off - well below average traction. The 96 OBW has been shoe'd 3 times with Yoko Avid Tourings which I highly recommend as a good all season budget tire. They handle snow fairly well.

I've just started researching alternative fuels for autos. You might find these links (and the links inside the links) helpful: http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/vehicles/propane_availability.html#conversions http://alternativefuels.about.com/od/2008propanevehicles/a/2008propaneveh.htm I was actually thinking about converting a small gas generator (used for camping) to propane and then got caught up on applications for autos.

IMO, most of the color offerings for the 05+ Legacy and Outback have been boring. It would be nice to see Subaru bring some decent colors back into the lineup again.

I inquired about this by calling both SOA and a local dealer. The answers pretty much matched up. The new coolant does have a much longer exchange interval due to it's chemical composition in the anti-corrosion elements. But if using in a older Subaru, the recommendation is to still follow the 3 year 'drain and fill' schedule.

I'm not sure of the comparison with a Impreza WRX, but the OBW and Baja's do have the heavier suspensions in the rear - even over the regular Legacy's

OK, this is kind of funky, but the dealership told me that the newer subies, normal aspirated engines, auto tranny, still have use the square 1/2" hole drain/fill plugs in the rear differentials. The Turbo's automatic tranny and all manuals have the 10mm hex hole in the plugs. Go figure, and so much for standardizing basic components Andy-Jo, if you're reading this post , can you confirm 10mm hex on your 05 diff's?

Yeah, I confirmed the front is still the T70 Torx. Waiting on a dealership callback on the rear diff's drain/refill plugs. Subaru just loves to force me to purchase more tool accessories for the toolbox with each new MY revision. BTW: reminder to all DIY's that you need to purchase new crush washers for the differential plugs, just like the engine oil drain plug.

This all reminded me I have 75W-90 waiting to be put in my 05 OBW. Peaking at the rear diff, it appears the drain and fill plugs are now Hex-Allen, unlike the 1/2" square plugs on my 96. Anyone know what size Allen wrench these take?

On my one experience it did.

Local dealer confirmed last winter when my 05 CEL came on with the cruise flashing due to loose gas cap. Any CEL will disable the cruise and it's light will flash - for 05 MY and later.