Novakaine

This is really sad. I was going to buy one this december. I wonder if the existing ones out there will be more expensive now?

What kind of noise does the tensioner make? I just did my belt, and the tensioner looked okay, but I don't know what to look for.

I will try and get the codes pulled today. Does anybody know if napa auto parts will pull codes. Also, I just did a timing belt myself about 2 weeks ago or so, I wonder if that has anything to do with this.

Thank you all for the advice. I think I will use the pressure washer, but I will turn the pressure way way down. On the topic of the CEL codes, once the CEL is not longer lit, the codes are gone? And trying to read the codes will show nothing? Is that correct? THank you all again.

Hello, I have two questions, which I would appreciate your advices on. I have a some oil and dirt all over the engine...it is an old car. So, I want to pressure wash the engine area. What areas can I pressure wash and what should I not hit? Is it all fair game top, side, and bottom? The second item, I ha da problem the other day. This is actually the second time this happened. I tried to start the engine, and it not start. sounded normal and fine, it just did not fire up. So I left it alone for 5 minutes, and it started up fine, but it threw a CEL. The CEL stayed lit for a day or so, an then disappeared. SO, just because the CEL is gone, is there still a code to be read, or is that gone too? Thank you in advance.

The FWD fuse is located under the hood, near the firewall. I think. I took my time and bought a 95 2.2, alost 2 years ago, I am very happy. People keep asking me when I will get rid of the junker and buy new car, they just don't understand. I would look at the basics, check for cracks on the metal under the hood, to see if it has been in an acident. Color and level of all fluids, records, comfort level with the seller. I bought a car sometime ago, I was not entirely feeling good about it, but it was a good deal, I regreted that purchase. The Soob purchase however, nice guy, invited me to his house, talked about the car, and had all the paper work. I was very comfortable with the seller, and very happy with the car.

hey, So I am about a week away from completing my car pc. It is a lot more difficult and timing consuming than you would think, or at least I thouht. You are going to want a regulatged 12 supply. Stuff that comes from the cig lighter is unregulated (ie 9VDC -16VDC). I guess it all depends how pretty you want it, what you want it to do and how much you want to spend. check out www.mp3car.com for help. Awesome place. Let me know if you need any other help or advice. Good Luck.

I have never had this problem. I would try and clean that area out and see if the sound goes away. Perhaps even spray/grease some lube in there to see if that take of it. If it does not, maybe the problem is bigger. IMHO.

When I did te replacement I only did the belt. I still want to reseal the oil pump and swap the water pump, which i think I will do in a couple of months when I get less busy. I bought everything from 1stsuabru parts, but they did not have a gasket for the water pump. I have the pump, but not the gasket that goes between the pump and engine. strange? or is there no gasket there? I think I will just fly breezy for now, but I do eventually plan to replace the cover, as it was there for a reason to begin with. When the car runs, there is a slight noise from from what i think is a pully (little squealing). I will have to double check. That also why I am waiting to put the cover back on. I think the oil leak is coming from the right side valve cover. Is that a common place for a leak and is it easy to replace that?

So, it was the timing. I was off by a tooth here and there. Now it runs pretty nice and smooth. However, I still have an oil leak. I think it is coming from some gasket somewhere. Who knows... But thank you guys for all the help. Could not have done it without all of you.

I have said this before and I will say it again. You guys are awesome. I am not saying that I fixed the problem yet, but just that you all make me feel like I can. I will go home tonight and double check all the marks. Since there is no belt covers, it should be pretty easy, except for the crank gear. I printed those articles out before I started, but for the most part, they all said the same thing, which I thought i followed. When I get a chance, I will post a pic of the belt cover I dremeled off. You all might find it entertaining/disappointing.

When I did the belt, I am sure the timing was set correctly. The notches in the sproket lined up with the line on the belt, which lined up with the notch in the cover. Also, I think forgot to mention, the car threw a CEL after a few minutes of idleing. Is there a way to make minor tweaks to the timing by adjusting a knob somewhere. Say on the distributor or something? Would the car start if I was off by a whole rotation on the crank gear? Thank You.

Hello, Here is what happened. I went to replace a timing belt on the 95 legacy. I tried with many things many times to get the outer crank spocket off, and just could not. So, in frustration I just cut the center timing belt cover off with a dremel. I eventually got the crank sprocket off by putting some bolts through it attaching it to an angle iron and holding it with that. However, in one of my attempts to get that crank sproket off, i managed to get the timing belt to jump a tooth or two, prior to marking it. So I am not sure what the original timing was. I tried to line everything up to 12' o clock with the belt on, but once the belt came off, I had to tweak it a little. Right now I have all three, (passenger and driver side Cam sprocket and crank gear) all lined up to 12 o clock. the belt markings line up nicely as well. But the car idles very rough, so I am assuming that the timing is off, because it ran very well before. I am thinking that the two Cam sprokets need to be at 12 o'clock, but the crank gear, needs to be changed. When I had to tweak it to be at 12'clock (white mark on the smaller gear at 12 o';clock), was not correct. Please help me. I am not sure what to do. I have read something about this car needning to be at 20 degrees BTDC. I am not sure what this means. Do I just need to turn the crank gear a few teeth clockwise or counter clock wire? I would really appreciate any help, as this is my daily comuter and tomorrow is monday. Thank you, very much.

Don't need to take anything else off. I tried it with one of the C shaped sockets, did not work because it would slip. Need to use a boxed end wrench. You are going to throw the old one away anyway, so just cut the wires off. Hit it with some liquid wrench, turned the wheels in or out, can't remember. Then went at with an offset wrench from sears, with a metal pipe attached to increase torque. Sat on the floor and pushed on the pipe with my feet, and came right off. Good luck.

I will do some playing in the car and see what I can figure out, an then report back. Thanks for the advice.

Sorry, I should have been clearer. The car does have an aa shifter. I have to push on the brake, and that releases a solenoid in the shift box. Then I push the big button and I can then change gears. The solenoid will not click when it is cold. I have no problem waiting two minutes, my fear is that if it is problem, and it fails then I will not be able to shift at all. I don't remember seeing a manual override. But if I take the cover off, I can actually see the solenoid. Thank you all for the advice and help.

Here is the issue, and I am not sure if it really is an issue, or just a feature. My 95 legacy AT, will not let me put the car in drive in the morning if it is really cold outside. When I push on the brake, there is a solenoid in the shifter that is supposed to disengage or engage, it does nothing. I have to wait 2-5 minutes with the engine running and then it will work fine. Also, by cold I mean ice on the windshield, but not quite below zero. Is this a feature to let the car warm up a little, or is this some issue i need to fix? Thank you.

I used a wrench like this, and put pipe on the end to get more torque. The special tool sucked. I bought the wrench from sears or osh...same thing. http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00944362000?wid=100&hei=100&op_sharpen=1

Wow, thank you. I owe you my first born child... or atleast a beer. Seriously though, thank you very much.

What I need most of all, is a list of things I need to buy. I know there is timing belt, waterpump, and maybe even an oil pump, but I know that there are a bunch of little o rings and seals that I need to get, but have no idea what the part numbers are and how to find out. Thanks for the confidence boost.

Thank you guys for the endwrench info. I will look them up. I just don't want to be out a car for too long. I guess I will just give it a shot, and see what I can screw up. I do need to buy a few tools like the sprocket puller and stuff. and various tools.

My legacy came with a set barums or some junk. Absolute crap, so bad infact, they are not even rated. I took the car up to tahoe, and I was all over the road. I then upgaded to a set of wrx rims with r392s, and they were much better. I probably felt it slip only a few times. But that might has something to do with the fact the tires had a lot of wear on them and were near the end of life. I just upgrades to the Yokohama AVID V4S, I like them so far. It is supposed to rain in a couple days, I will push them in the rain and see how they hold up...and then report back. The true test will be in the snow, and for that, I must wait a month.

I have been debating of whether or not to do the timing belt myself for the last 20,000 miles. I think it is just time I dive into it. I am scared though, this is baby, and also my only car and transportation to work. I will keep looking for a couple of guides. Thank you for the help. And if there is more advice, please keep it coming.

I changed the oil about 4000 miles ago. It did not look like it was coming from the filter, but maybe. I put a new filter in and oil change yesterday, so we will see if that does anything. Also is there a picture of where the oil pump is and what to tighten. Or a description of the pump and where it is, so I know what to look for. Thank you.

But she is only a baby, she can't need that many seals....145k It is time for a timing belt change anyway, i guess it is stime for me to sit and get dirty. I have the chiltons repiar manual, but i don't think it is enough of a guide to do all of that. And i have search the forum but can't find a good guide. I know it exist somewhere, because i have seen it before.. Does anybody have a couple quick links to a step by step guide. Thanks you.