Novakaine

So, my 95 legacy is leaking oil from somewhere. About 3 weeks ago, I checked the oil, and noticed i was about a quart and a half low, so i filled it up. Today I went to do an oil change and I was at least a quart low, the dip stick was dry. Upon going under the car, there was lots of oil on the front underside. It looked like it was dripping from the timing belt cover. I removed the side timing belt cover to see if me belt was covered in oil, but the belt and all that looked dry and nothing unusual. I have some pics I can post as well. If that will help. Where can this oil be coming from? Any suggestions? In a related matter, does any body know any good soob shops in the area, or would be willing to help me for a fair price. Thank you.

I have the 95, and all the wiring it there. after adding the actual wiper unit, you need to add a realy, which is located along the rightpassanger side, in the quater panel. Just follow the wire from the hatch, and you will eventually find it. You can also rig a standard STDP relay to work. cheers, avish

Mileage kind of sucks on my car. 95 leagcy wagon, wityh the non-interferance 2.2L, i get about 19-21 MPG. I just had an alignment done, so maybe that will make a difference, I will report back in a week. Avish

I second the CV/axel... I replaced my front left one at about 120k. There was no sound, my mechanic noticed it was torn so i told him to replace it. Avish

Awsome, is there anyway you could find out where the relay is or tell me what to look for? Thanks. I looked for a relay in the little black fuse box in under the hood near the battery and in the little fuse box by the driver left foot, and nothing seems missing. ANy ideas?

Hey all, So here is the situation. I recently replaced my rear hatch from one without the rear wiper to one with the rear wiper. I assumed that as soon as I hook up all the wires, the rear wiper would work, not the case though. Since all the wires were already there and there is a rear wiper control on the little black stick behind the steering wheel, I assumed i did not need to do anything else. I looked around for any relay or fuse that might need to be added, but i can't find anything like that. The only thing I saw was at the washer tank, fluid tbe needs to be hooked up, but even without that the arm should still work. Any ideas and any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I think the most commonly upgrade to the stock seats are the seats out the wrx or STI's. I would look on ebay or some forums for them. good luck.

HOw big is the file, It says it needs like 52 minutes to download, is that the time it takes everybody else?

I know the sound very well.

Its not a joke, the california spec timing belts a scheduled to be replaced every 105k versus the rest of the country's 60k belt. Being that you are in california, I would imagine by default that is what they would use. But ask the shop anyway, just to make sure. I don't know if the physical belt is different, or just the timing or what...but that is what it is.

How bad? 20 MPG? What kind of driving do you do? city highway? Are you lead footed?

Welcome to the family.

I would say so. The lady I delt with very nice.

So here is the update. I spoke to the allstate adjuster and settled the case. So after she offered me $2700 for the car, I told her to she needed to get her number right. She said she needed a few more days and came back to me with $4400, and we agreed. Then I bought the car back for $800. So I think we came to a fair deal. I need to get the car checked out by a body shop to make sure there is no frame damage, and the extent of it. I also want to wheel alightment checked and done as well. My personal injury claim is still pending though.

91Loyale I think you are right. Some Junk Yard parts and some bondo will do the trick. Right now they are offering me 2700 to total the car, and a buy back of 566. I still think I deserve more for the car, because the only car i could find with similiar specs was going for about 5000. I don't think I am being unreasonable, all i want is what is fair. But that is something I will be fighting the insurance company on for a little bit. Also, it is too soon to settle, because they are still doing an investigation into the whole thing, because the car I was hit with, was not on the guys insurance policy.

I have heard people get good results from 1stsubaruparts.com

Yeah, I think I could fix it myself. I have already tracked down a tailgate. I have a friend with a body shop, I have him look and tell me if there is any frame damage, if there is, then its all yours. I wll be parting this thing out for the next two months. By the way, how much is the car worth parted out? ie. how much are the little parts here and there worth? Actually, how bad is alittle frame damage? does it really matter? What is sad is that i just bought the alloys like two weeks ago.

Thank you all for the advice. I think, based on cookies story, and given the chance, and depending what they want to give me for the car if they total it, i may buy it back, but only for a few hundered. It is not worth 1500, like cookie's case. I went to the doctor today, and he gave me some meds and told me to strech and ice the pain. What bother me about all this, is that I have to go running around, and I have to go to the hospital, and I have to keep calling the insurance company. The other driver should have to do all that, and I should get to take it easy. Tomorrow I take the car in to be inspected, and thats when we will find out what is eally going to happen.

So here is the update: I did wake up with a headache, a stiff neck, and a little bit of lower back ache. Thanks to all yoru advice, I will be going to a DR. today. Perhaps they will give me a better idea as to what is going on. Is a lawyer really needed? I always see these comercials for injury lawerys and stuff, I never thought I would need one. Perhaps I do now. Anybody have one they can recommend? I got two estimate, one was for about $6000 and the other was for about $5000. So I imagine that they will total the car, but i don't know yet. I have to take the car to their inspection place, and the adjuster will determine the extent of damage. So, if the car is totaled. What should I do? Should I buy it back and then have it fixed myself? If the frame is slightly bent, is that a big problem or can it be straightened? Here is a picture of the poor little subie:

I was heading to work around 11 am today when it all happened. I took an exit off the freeway, and so did the Yukon XL behind me. I stopped at the end of the ramp, because it merges with local traffic, and bam, the glass flew off my face, seat belt locked and i was dazed and confused for a few minutes. I pulled up and stopped, and the lady stopped as well. we got out and spoke politely with each other. She was a little scared as well, and called her husband. Who turned out to be a pretty decent guy, and did not fight with me, and cast the blame on me some how. I was not sure what to do, so I called my brother and friend, who told me to get all their information. My insurance card gave me a list of information to gather, and i did that. It also told me to notify the police, so after being on hold with 911 for about 10 minutes, I called the near by sfsu campus police, who said to contact the SFPD, who then said just get all their information and take it up with their insurance company. So just to make sure he does not try to change the story later on, I had her sign a little piece of paper that said she rear ended me. I was fine at the time, but now I am a little sore. I don't if that is the shock wearing off or that soft tissue stuff they talk about. My Suby has a smashed tailgate, the rear bumper looks straight, but I assume there could be some damage underneath. My fear is that there is frame damage or some damage top my all wheel drive system. I am going to take it to the burlingame collision center in a little bit and see what they say. Is there anything else I should ask them to look at? or any other advice you guys/gals can give me? I am also afraid that if the damage is too much, will they just give me the blue book value of the car? Which is far less than i think the car is worth. I am not going to be able to buy another suby with the same specs from an old professor with every record in nice little file. What should I do? I will post some pics up tonight. Thanks, Avish

Damn frag, now i want to know the story.

I got mine of ebay for 45$ with like $10 shipping. Stick it out, don't spend $300, thats way too much. Happy Hunting.

in my 96, i have a factory rack, but i could not find the right mounts. So, I just cut a slit at the bottom of the rubber of the yakima rack in two places, ran a large hose clamp throught it, and clamped it to the factory rack. I don't think that is the problem you are having, but i really wanted to share.

scoobdude, i appreciate the link and am checking it out right now. Thanks for the info guys.

Okay, so here is the situation. My car manual says to use dextron 2 ATF, fine. But I can't find dextron 2 anywhere, and the guy at napa auto parts says that dextron 3 is the new better replacement for dextron 2. Is that true? also what kind of ATF would you guys recommend, castrol, redline? Synthetic? Synthetic blend? I am really confused...help. Thanks