shimonmor

If you've added 5 qts then it's either in there or it's leaking or you are burning it. Is the dipstick tube seated in there properly? Are you making sure you push the dipstick in all the way before checking? Are you sure the oil isn't being wiped off while pulling the dipstick out? If it's not a dipstick problem then look at the bottom of the engine. You may not see oil leaks on the ground but you can still be leaking oil. Is it oily under there? Check around the valve cover gaskets and front cover. Small oil leaks can deplete oil suprisingly quickly. What color is your exhaust? You could be loosing oil through the valve guide seals. BTW, I always prefill my new oil filter before putting it on to make sure the engine always has oil on startup after an oil change.

Check out these two posts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32962 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32863

Check out these two posts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32962 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32863

I'm not sure if I have a right answer but after reading that there was a concern over the coating of the TB...I thought why take a chance? Although with the port I used the TB won't get cleaned. At idle, the port I used had some pretty good vacuum and having the hose off the port affected the idle a little but it still ran ok. I put the hose in the can and it sucked about 1/3 of the can before it died which I figured was enough. It did smoke pretty good for about 5 minutes after starting up again. I think the can of Seafoam recommended using the PCV valve or any vacuum port which would spread the cleaner to all cylinders.

Here is a photo which may help with 99obw's description to help you find the vacuum port.

Well this is very interesting...I just posted a problem with cyl 4 misfire yesterday...(see post: here). So is Subaru acknowledging a problem or is this just a theory? Thanks for posting this...at least if I never find a problem I can fall back on the phantom ECU menace.

Thanks...informative post. BTW...this forum (along with "The Diesel Stop") is one of the best ones I've used. Quick and informative responses with minimal BS. Thanks for all the help!

Haven't done the valves. It doesn't look fun with the horizontal engine. I was planning on doing the valves and valve cover gaskets this summer (assuming I don't have a HG issue). I should have done a compression check when I did the plugs but didn't think about it. Those little buggers are hard to get to but maybe I'll do that one of these weekends when it's not pouring out. I put some Seafoam in the fuel tank but I want to put some through the intake system...do you usually pour it in or suck it in with vacuum? Is their a convenient location? Maybe PCV or some other vacuum line?

Hmmm...interesting. We did have an EGR code at about 55k miles and it was replaced promptly (by Subaru...I wasn't home at the time) and never had another EGR code. How long do these EGRs usually last? It may be worth a shot since they aren't too expensive (I think). Ahh...I miss the days of non-computerized engines...so sayeth the Luddite.

Good ideas. Thanks. I bought some Seafoam a couple of weeks ago and I forgot about it. I'll throw some in the fuel and into the intake this week and see if it helps. As for the injectors...can you just swap them or do you need a new sealing washer or whatnot if you remove an injector (like in diesels)?

Have a 99 OB 108k miles MT. Wife got a cyl 4 misfire code about a month ago. The plugs were changed at 60k but wires were original. Checked the wire at the #4 plug and sure enough it was corroded. Replaced the plugs and wires at about 106k miles. After about 2 weeks the wife got the cyl 4 misfire code again. Funny thing is it happened at the exact same time and place as before. It happened on her way back from work about 5 miles from work just after being at 70mph on the the hwy for about 5 minutes. I checked the wire and it was fine. Checked oil and coolant (head gasket??) and all looks fine. Reset the code. A week later got the code again...same exact place. She drives about 40 miles each way to work and she never gets the light in the morning. Only in the afternoon on her way back to work and always at the same spot on the hwy. It's pretty level...no big hills. Car isn't driven while she's at work...only to and from work. Anyway, I checked the wire again and the coil and all checks out ok. I took an oil sample last Monday but haven't got the results back yet. Car runs fine. CEL doesn't flash, it just comes on steady. I've never been in the car when the CEL comes on but I find it strange that it always comes on at the same geographic location (within 1 mile). EMI?? I'm always thinking of the head gaskets in the back of my mind but I don't see any symptoms (yet) except that possibly some coolant is leaking into #4 at high RPM and putting out the fire. But I've driven the Sube at 70MPH and no CEL. Any ideas? I'm all out of them.

Yes and no. A lot of independant shops are small and they may offer no benefits or limited benefits. In addition, they are not mired in bureaucracy (especially if they have less than 15 employees...I think that's the number). And, when a small shops starts out they are usually cheaper but if they are good then they quickly expand and you'll see their prices skyrocket to dealer prices. Our shop rate about three years ago was $50/hr and know it's $85/hr and people keep coming.

Is the CEL still on? Do you know what the code is? If not get a code reader or go to a store such as Autozone and get the code read.

I also "second" the O2 sensor idea. If it's never been replaced...replace it at ~100k miles! I changed mine (never got a CEL) and the Sub ran A LOT better. Smoother idle and better mileage. It's pretty easy to change. It's at the front of the cat converter on top. Unplug the harness, use a 22mm (I think) wrench and yank it out of there. The new one should have some aniseize on it already (mine did). And get the one with the OEM plug so you can plug right in. You can buy ones with the bare wires but now you have to splice and dice. Spend the extra couple of bucks for ease of install.

I'm a diesel mech and electrician and work on yachts...our shop rate is $85/hr and I can see why. There is a lot of overhead. The mechanics get their hourly wages which are billed out. The managers and parts people and everyone else's hours are not billed out but they have to be paid. Utilities, advertising, supplies, bookeeping have to be paid. Medical insurance. Training. Hotels and per diem and travel to go to training. Business cards, hats, uniforms, service manuals, photocopy machine, and on and on and on. And then there is the warranty work. Tools are usually always paid for and owned by the mechanics themselves (except for specialty and really expensive tools)...so those don't count (I never let a customer borrow or touch my tools). All in all, there are a lot of bills to pay. I think most shops make their money on the parts mark up and all the labor costs usually go to cover expenses. Generally speaking. I've always thought of going into business for myself...there is a lot of demand and I would be sure to make more money...but who needs the hassle?

Yeah...what's the official way to know which Phase engine you have?

Hmmm. This turned out to be an interesting thread. I appreciate the replies. The spec is there for a reason...what that reason is, I'm not sure. The EMI theory sounds plausible. Anyway, the car is running fine so I'll assume (yes, I know what happens when you assume) that I'm ok. Thanks again.

Well, I decided to use the wires. I've got some nice weather and some time so I opted to be lazy and use what I have. I can't imagine that 1500 ohms can make that much difference (especially when it's lower than spec...of course that's just rationalizing on my part). Seems to run ok. No one in town carries the wires for this Sub so I had to special order these and I don't want to have to special order again. Too much of a hassle. Just put in new plugs too and didn't want to use the old wires since there was corrosion on #4 wire at the plug end (had a CEL #4 misfire). Anyway, if someone does see a reason why the resistance difference is critical...I would like to know.

Just bought some Napa "Belden Max" spark plug wires for my 99 OBW (2.5L) part number 700031. They look like the right ones but when I checked their resistance...they were all ~ 3.5k ohms. According to my book they should all be between ~4.9k-11.5k ohms (#4 being ~5.2k-12.3k ohms). I checked the Napa online site to see if maybe they gave me the wrong part number but it matches the 700031 Belden number. I checked my ohm readings with two meters (a Fluke and a Blue Point) and they come up the same. Is it ok to use these or should I get another brand? What brand? Thanks.

We bought our 99 OBW new and I've done pretty much all the maintenance on it. Replaced the timing belt and front main and camshaft seals at about 60k miles because the seals were leaking. Changed out an EGR due to a code. Changed the front and rear O2 sensors at 100k miles (no codes but thought it was time...and it improved the idle a lot). Plugs were changed at 60k and I just bought a new set of plugs and wires to put in this weekend. I'm still waiting for the headgasket to blow so I've been monitoring the coolant. It's been a fairly reliable car (assuming the HGs hold) and has served us well. Never been stranded.

Just wondering what you all use to clean your fuel injection system and to clean valves. Thanks.

Anyone know of a good seat cover for the back seat of a 99 OBW for our dogs. Would like something that stays put and will protect the rear seat from collecting dog hair and dirt but isn't so slick that the dogs slide around. Thanks.

What vehicle? Is the smell in the car or outside?

Excellent post. I'll save this for when I have to so my HG.

My 99 OBW has a factory CD player which plays CDRs (not mp3s, though).