shimonmor

Mark...thanks for taking the time type that all out. Sure will make my job easier! I've said it before and I'll say it again: I love the Internet!

Please do continue. You have my complete attention. Thanks for your time (boy do I hate working under dashes).

Does your Subaru have a liberal look to it?

I've got a 99 OB with 105k miles and haven't had the HG problem...yet. I'm easgerly anticipating the opportunity to fix this problem. If I was you...I would not buy the car. There are LOTS of used cars out there. Why buy a car that has a pretty good chance of having a HG issue. Why put yourself through the hassle? It's not like there is a shortage of used cars out there. Granted you are always taking a chance with a used vehicle, but hedge your bets towards something that would probably be less of a hassle. Now, if you could get the car dealership to properly repair the HG and give you a warranty, then sure go ahead and get it. But I don't think they will. They are in the business of selling used cars, not in the business of making you happy. If you don't want the Subaru, they will find someone else that doesn't know about the HG issue and sell it to them. Do the level headed, unemotional, and fiscally responsible thing and look for something else.

The backlighting for the fuel gauge on the wife's 99 OB is out. Is this an easy fix? Is it actual bulbs in there or do they use some other method? Do you need to remove the dash or can you get in underneath. Just wondering if anyone has done this before I start looking under there while out in the cold. Thanks.

Why is the swap inevitable? If you do a proper repair of the HG with the updated gaskets you should be fine. It's not really an engine design flaw but a head gasket design flaw, and from what I understand the updated gaskets correct that problem. Do the job yourself or find someone (or a dealer) who is familiar with the problem and with appropriate methods for proper repair and you will be anble to enjoy your EJ25.

Geez...how many watts are you running?

Here is the most recent one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27241 I know I saw at least one more...I can do a search and find it. I'm not trying to point fingers or make anyone look bad, I just think that it's important for people to a little more specific with their advice. If I was confused about someone's advice then I'm sure someone else could be too. Some people come here looking for a little more info before they go to the dealer and if they don't know an oil pump from a bicycle pump then they may end up wasting some extra money.

That makes sense to me. But reading through a couple of recent posts, there are some recommendations to replace the oil pump while other maintanance is being performed (head gaskets or timing belt or engine removal). Maybe people should be more specific about the o-ring so people don't waste money because I'm sure there are some dealers out there that would say, "You want to change the oil pump? Sure no problem, we can do that for you."

I'm not sure which OBD you have but you can always buy an OBD II scanner (if that's what you have). You can get cheap ones for $100 and better ones for $150....well worth the cost when you figure that having your codes read at the dealer usually costs one hour of labor (around $70-$100 depending on location). As for the temp gauge going up to the middle on start up...sounds like maybe the temp sender wire may be partially grounding or has a loose connection. If you ground the wire completely on a temp sender the gauge maxes out. If you remove the wire, gauge goes to zero. Hope this helps.

Jack up the car, get out your creeper, pull out the grease gun and squirt some grease into your palm, rub your hands together and then smear it all over you. Now you can feel like you just lubed your vehicle. I'm just having fun with you. I drive an 85 F250 diesel and I'm always under there greasing everything up and I hate doing it. I'm glad I don't have to grease anything on the wife's Subaru...sure makes life a little easier.

I would follow the recommended maint scehdule. It is legit. The valve clearance issue is checking the valve lash clearance and is things are out of spec, they should be corrected. Plus it gives you a chance to peek under the valve cover to see if any problems are starting. I would also replace O2 sensor at 100k miles as well as timing belt and water pump. Check tensioner, replace the front oil seals (cams and main).

I'm curious...after reading a lot of posts about head gasket replacements, I see many recommendations to replace the oil pump while you're in there. Why? Do these oil pumps go bad? I know the front main seal goes out but I've rarely heard of oil pumps being replaced (even for preventative maintenance). Most oil pumps should outlast the vehicle. Is there something about Subaru oil pumps that I should know? I understand replacing timing belts, tensioners, water pumps, but I don't understand the logic of replacing an oil pump. Thanks.

Well, I think they are getting at priming the oil system. Spark plugs out so engine doesn't start AND to reduce compression so it turns over easier. They are probably assuming you have a mechanical oil pressure temporarily attached to the engine so you can confirm oil pressure. The low voltage thing is the wiring going into the coil so that it doesn't produce an output spark to the spark plugs. You can also crank until the oil pressure light goes out and you could leave the plugs in as long as fuel or spark doesn't get into the cylinders.

You may find help here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm

How many miles? Could be an O2 sensor going south (a stab in the dark) amongst other things.

I would go with the traditional flooded cell battery which is the kind where you add water...as long as you remember to check and add water once in a while. They are cheap and if maintained can last 7 to 8 years (usually less, though). Also keep the battery clean to minimize self discharge. If you get a gel cell or AGM (absorbed glass mat) then you can't add anymore electrolyte if you loose any. But they are better batteries in that they recharge quicker (higher acceptance rate) and lower self discharge. But they are more expensive. If you have extra cash go for an Optima but there is no guarantee that it will last any longer than a flooded cell...but it will cost you a lot more.

What??? I can't hear you!

In 1999 when I was looking to buy a Subaru, I went in thinking I wanted a Forrester. After test driving both a Forrester and OB Legacy I decided I actually wanted an OB Legacy. It felt less cramped in the driver's seat and handled a lot better and the visibility was better too. A friend of mine has a 2004 Forrester and it's a lot nicer than 99 Forresters so Subaru probably improved it quite a bit.

I replaced my front O2 sensor at 100k miles and I never had a CEL for it and I noticed a marked improvement in engine idleing and fuel economy. If you have around 100k miles...replace it! Good preventative maintenance.

No real difference. I have a 99 and use the 98 Haynes manual. It's a pretty good manual for the price.

Take it out and drive it hard on the hwy and hopefully the heat will burn things off in there. I just changed mine and my Sub noe idles a lot better than it did. Are you sure you got the right one? Are all your connections good?

But they need diff fluid and manual tranny fluid with the LSD additive or you will get binding.

Well, I'm no alternator expert but I have been taught to not disconnect a battery from a running alternator. I've never done it but I have removed about 6 alternators from engines on boats when people shut off their battery switch while the engine was running (thus disconnecting the battery). And each of those alternators was toasted and sent to an alternator shop to be repaired. Now, these engines were all diesels and not automobiles so maybe there is a difference but I think the theory of operation would be the same. So, I will have to disagree with your explanation until I hear more concrete proof. I'm always willing to learn new things and these forums have taught me a lot...but I'm not yet convinced by your explanation. Here is a quote from a page I just looked up on Google (http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm): Warning! Some people tell you that you can check your alternator by disconnecting it from the battery to see if the alternator can produce enough current to keep the engine running. BAD IDEA! Disconnecting the battery will subject the voltage regulator (and computer and audio equipment...) to significant voltage spikes which may cause an otherwise good alternator to fail. Even if there were no damaging spikes, this test would not indicate whether or not the alternator was good because the engine will easily run with a weak or failing alternator. Simple Test: If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle. And here is another (http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa101604g.htm): 6. Test the alternator by disconnecting the battery with the engine running. A battery acts as a voltage stabilizer or filter to the pulsating DC produced by the alternator. Disconnecting a battery while the engine is running can destroy the sensitive electronic components connected to the electrical system such as the emission computer, audio system, cell phone, alarm system, etc., or the charging system because the peak voltage can rise to 40 volts or more. In the 1970s, removing a battery terminal was an accepted practice to test charging systems of that era. That is not the case today.

Yeah, I have to agree that disconnecting the battery while the engine is running is a bad idea. The voltage regulator has a battery sense lead which tells the alternator what to put out. If you remove the battery, the battery sense lead will read 0 volts and the voltage regulator will tell the alternator to keep cranking up the voltage till the battery sense lead reads appropriately (which it never will since there is no battery) which leads to something blowing...most likely the diode pack. As far as I know...never remove a battery from a running alternator...as far as the computer stuff...don't know much about them.