shimonmor

Thank you!! That chime has been bugging me since we bought the 06 OBW. Now I can stop yelling at the chime to shut up.

Yeah, it's a pain. I have a set of ramps that I use on my 06 OBW. But I'm to the point now that I don't even bother with the ramps. I have a Fumoto valve on the pan so no more drain bolts to deal with and the only hard part is the filter because it's hidden up between two runs of the exhaust manifold and I always burn my hand on the heat shield. You probably want to get one of those oil filter wrenches you can stick on the end of extension for a ratchet (see photo).

I'm installing a new stereo in my wife's 06 OBW which has the one piece dash bezel that covers the stereo and climate controls (see photo). I want to install a Clarion DXZ385USB (have the same stereo in my Toyota Tacoma). What are the best dash kits out there? I liked the Scosche kit I got for Tacoma...made in the US and very well made too. Good fit and finish. Anyone try the Scosche kit in their Subaru? It looks like it only comes in black and don't want to have to paint it. How about the Crutchfield kit...anyone have one those? Any other brands to looks at? Any input appreciated about dash kits.

Try some 3M 847. We use it at work where we call it gorilla snot and works well in many applications.

You are right but I would bet there is less media area in square inches than in the bigger filter. But we would need to take apart both filters and lay the media out and measure. But that sounds like a lot of work. So, I'll just say in my opinion there is less media in the newer, smaller filters!

Don't know if anyone has brought this up before but the oil filter location on the 06 OBW is a royal pain. You can't grab the sides of it...you must use a socket type oil filter wrench on an extension with a ratchet. And I don't have the size needed for this tiny filter (yet) so I used some channel lock pliers and was just able to break free the filter. The filter is nestled in between two exhaust runs which are covered in heat shield. If you stick your hand up there to grab the filter then you will burn your hands. I wear nitrile gloves when changing oil but I may have to switch to my welding gloves to avoid the big burn. Also, the newer oil filter is about 50% smaller than the filter on my 99 OBW. Means less filter media and less oil capacity in the filter. I just had to vent. Thanks for listening.

Thanks for the replies. Did a search and found a lot of very useful posts on torque bind. I always appreciate the help I get at this forum. Top notch!

I'm posting this for a friend who is having a problem with his 96 Subaru L wagon. Here is the problem: Just changed the trans fluid and filter. I can't remember if this all started before or after the service. It seems it was after. While backing up it feels like a brake is sticking or I am in four wheel low and something is binding. It is worse when backing and turning. It also happens when going forward and turning sharp. Never feel a problem when just going fwd straight. It really makes no difference if the car has been running for a while or 1st thing in the morning. It also seems like some days it is better than others. Any ideas? Thanks.

I just traded in my wife's 1999 OBW for a 2006. Both are bare bones with no options and are manual transmissions. I thought I would share my impressions on both models. The reason we traded up is that I got tired of wondering if the head gaskets were going to blow and we had 128k miles. I think the 2006 looks cooler. Electric driver seat is standard now and so are seat warmers (who really needs seat warmers?). I found the 1999 handled better than the 2006. The newer model might be taller because it feels like it rolls more and doesn't feel as agile as the '99. I hate the new stereo setup. It is an integrated panel with the AC so you can't just swap in your favorite stereo. Yuk! Plus it look and feels cheesy. The '99 was more comfortable for me while driving. I had somewhere to put my right arm and now the center console is lower so it feels funny. However the cup holders are MUCH improved. The '99 had those lame cup holders between the stereo and AC controls. The '06 has them between the seats. The glove box is much better...bigger and special spot for the manual. The rear seats are easier to lower since you don't have to fold the lower portion up first. The headlights are much brighter and clearer now and so are the highbeams. Engine compartment is about the same although it does look like you have a little more room to R&R spark plugs. Haven't looked underneath yet or changed oil yet. Power feels about the same. Anyway, I hope this new model doesn't develop any mechanical defects like the '99 HG issue. I'm a diesel mech so changing HGs isn't a huge deal but I just changed them on my 85 F250 diesel and last year did our 88 Ranger and I was not in any mood to do the Subaru. Overall, we are pleased with the new vehicle and look forward to many happy miles with it. Cheers!

I wouldn't use it on a head. But that's me. It may be accurate out of the box within 10% but I bet it won't last. Only way to be sure is to have it calibrated once in a while but that would cost more than original wrench. You don't always get what you pay for but I would bet in this case you do. Either spend more $$$ and get a good one or rent/borrow one that is of higher quality or has been calibrated. I have a variety of torque wrenches from 1/4" to 3/4" from Snap-On, Matco, SK & Craftsman and have had them calibrated (my work pays for calibration) and the Snap-On torque wrenches are consistently accurate while the others get out of cal. Of course the Snap-On wrenches are very pricey.

Just traded in the wife's 99 OBW for a 2006 OBW (base model, no options). Just wondering if it uses the same OBD reader as the 99. Can't find any plugs like the 99 had above the left knee. Do I need a new reader?

I agree with you that most mechanics out there are lazy and/or stupid. Just so happens that I am a mechanic (but I don't consider myself as lazy or stupid). I would never just drop off my vehicles at a shop. I do everything myself except for certain jobs. Like I needed the tranny rebuilt on our Sube so I went around to a couple of shops and talked to the service managers and mechanics. I asked a lot of questions that I knew the answers to so that I could gauge their BS level. Once I found someone I trusted and had confidence in I let them do the job. When I got it back everything was good so I let the guy know he did a great job and that I would be back to him if I ever needed any tranny work. Easier said than done but you gotta find someone you trust and stick with them. We have a lot customers at our shop who will only have certain mechanics work on their boat because they know them. I have my "customers" and other mechanics have their "customers" and then there are those customers who don't care...they just want it done cheaply. Always try to talk to the mechainc who will be working on your vehicle. It makes it more personal and they are more likely to see you as a person rather than as just another customer. Ask them questions and give them feedback. If things turn out ok...call the mechanic's manager to let them know they did a good job. Mechanics like it when the boss comes out and says some customer called and said you did a great job. On the flip side don't be afraid to call up and complain if something is wrong...constructive and rational feedback is essential to building a good customer/mechanic relationship.

Pretty cool...but if the idiot behind you isn't looking or paying attention then a 2 billion watt light bulb won't help.

It depends if you have a good shop around that rebuilds them. If you have that much heat you may have toasted the stator. You get to a point where rebulding isn't cost effective. Basically, they test all the components (voltage regulator, diode pack, stator, bearings, rotor, brushes) and replace what needs replacing. If too much stuff is bad, you are better off getting a rebuilt/new unit.

A spark plug ain't that easy to change on some of these Subies!

My wife wakes me up this morning...she's about to leave for work but realizes the running lights are on with the key off. I can't figure out so I fire up the computer and search for "running lights" on USMB and find this post. Easy fix. I've said it before and I'll say it again...I love the Internet. Thanks USMB.

HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND. I work on boats and rusted fasteners are a daily chore. Propane or Mapp gas torches work ok but I like an OxyAcetelyne set-up if you got one. A good dose of heat will always break free the most stubborn offenders. Also a dose of Aerokroil (I used to be a PB Blaster guy till I tried Aerokroil).

A simple test to see if a diode failed closed is to set your multi-meter to AC volts and measure at the alternator positive output post (AC ripple test). You should see less than 1 volt AC. If you see more...then you have a bad diode and should have the diode pack replaced or get a new alternator. AC voltage to a battery is bad because it heats up the battery and the more AC you put out, the less DC you have for actual charging. Of course, diodes can fail closed or open.

A blinking CEL means the problem is currently happening. A steady CEL means a problem was detected and noted. That's for OBD2...not sure if it's the same for OBD1. What sensor was the offender? A little more info on vehicle...year, model, miles, etc...

I replaced both of my O2 sensors on my 99 and they were the direct replacement Bosch with the correct pigtail which plugged right in...no universal for me. I got one from drivewire.com (part #C5010-54809) for $89 with free shipping and the other from ThePartsBin.com (part #C5010-54811) for $79 with free ship. I think the 811 is the front and the 809 is the rear.

Congrats! I think that's quite an achievement and it's always a pleasure to hear about people making an effort to make things last. Ignore your battery and it will go away....

Well, from what I gather...it's a problem not an epidemic. If everyone had HG issues with the 2.5 engine you would be hearing about more so than just in these forums. I have a 99 OB with the 2.5 with 110K miles and I've just been waiting for the HG to go. In the meantime I'm just worrying myself for nothing. As my fourth grade teacher, Ms. Renick, said: "Why die twice?" So, I'm not going to worry about it until it happens. And it may never happen or if it does it may happen at 150K miles. Who knows? I'm just going to keep maintaining my vehicle properly and check the fluids a little more often for signs of problems. Otherwise the OB has been an outstanding vehicle. On that note, if I was going to buy a used OB I would lean towards not getting one with a 2.5 that may have a potential early HG problem. Why bother?

Don't know where in Victoria you can get help...but we can try here. What is the problem? Is it an auto or manual? Was the fluid in the diffs/gear changed recently? Incorrect fluid without the additive for limited slip (GL-5) can cause binding issues. That's the cheap fix. Gets more expensive from there.

Start simple...how is the tranny fluid level and color?

Yes, sounds like a valve cover gasket leak to me not a head gasket. Much cheaper and easier to fix.