jiggseob

Looks like the previous owner (or mechanic) did some messing with o2 sensor. The sensor has two wires, a white and a black. Where the sensor plugs into the harness, there are three wires, white, black, and yellow. I haven't had a chance yet to test that yellow wire on the vehicle harness for +12v right after startup. My understanding of o2 sensor pre heat is that 12V is provided to the sensor for about 25 seconds after startup, and if the computer doesn't see any resistance for the pre-heater, it sets the code and goes into open-loop operation, going to default full-rich safe mode so as not over-lean and damage the engine. Thus the poor mileage it was getting. Question for the other guys with 99 legacy - does your o2 sensor have three wires or two? How about your harness side? Thanks, Jiggs.

Check engine light is on, P0135 = 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction, bank1, sensor 1, heat circuit. Are 02 sensors troublesome on these cars, and what do they cause, other than the check engine light? Thanks, Jiggs.

I was changing the clutch in a Nissan, the disc had flywheel side stamped on it, so I put it in with that side facing the flywheel. Many put ins and pull outs and take aparts later, I measured things using a straightedge and protrusion guage. Since I looked at the new parts before taking it all apart, and saw the clearly marked flywheel side, I didnt pay attention to which side was out on the disc when I took it apart. The measuring showed the disc was bottoming on the trans-shaft. Turned the clutch disc so the side marked flywheel was facing the pressure plate, and it all went together and worked. Dohhh....

It runs..... after plugging all the harnesses in, it cranked for about 15 seconds, then kicked a bit, then fired, then started and ran. Wouldn't idle nicely so I took apart the iac, it was grungy inside. Getting coolant in is a total PITA... poured it in the filler neck, about a quart went in. No more would go in. There is a phillips-head threaded plug in the passenger side of the rad, I took that out, piddled a gallon in there, put the plug back, put the rad-cap on, then started it. Heat in the cabin, after about 10 minutes, heat in the rad. The iac valve was a little sticky, took it apart, freed it up, lubed it a bit, put it back in, it works, now idles smoothly. I didn't know what the iac did, but now I see the iac is just a computer controlled throttle, it lets air thats been through and metered by the MAF, and the iac lets the air in when I close the throttle. Quite simple actually, when it works. After about an hour total of idling, piddling with the sticky iac, driving around the block, up and down the alley, it runs nice. All put together, running nice. All in all, the '95 EJ22( from an automatic trans) swapped in with NO trouble. A few things to remember to get from the donor car, like the power steering hoses. I've swapped VWs and Chev small-blocks before, this was my first Subaru, all in all a great result. Thanks for the moral support... Jiggs

Does this 99 Legacy Outback talk to OBD2 scanner and data display? The cel was lit on this car when it last ran with the 2.5dohc installed. Now that the 2.2sohc is in, I presume I will have to clear the existing code and then see what happens. Does anyone know if my Maxitrip OBD2 scanner/reader will work on the 99 Scoooby? This Maxitrip OBD2 scanner/reader plugs into my work car (an 05 Cevvy- sorry) and tells me what the map, tps, rpm, temp, iat, O2, etc sensor values are. I'm hoping it gives me some of this on the Scoooby.

Cranked it over tonight, with all three harness plugs unplugged, so that it would not start, I didn't want it to start, just crank over and check for oil pressure. Yes, it did pressure up after about 15 seconds of cranking, the oil pressure light went out, stop cranking, oil light came on again in a second. I still have to obtain the correct coolant and put that in before starting. Both the donor car at the scrapyard, and the EJ25 in my shop had yellow coolant. The auto parts store insists I buy the $25 per gallon - already diluted - pink stuff. I want to buy the $16 a gallon yellow stuff, that you mix 50/50 with distilled water. Advice please.... no owners manual with this car. What does the manufacturer recommend for the 95 EJ22, and what do the wily veteran subie people recommend? Should I buy some sort of coolant additive in addition to the antifreeze? What temp of thermostat do the wily veterans recommend? Thanks, Jiggs.

I will start with plan-A, connecting the small and large metal pipes on the front-right together. I did bring the engine-bay mounted can from the wrecking yard, and if Plan A doesn't work I will find a spot in the engine bay for the canister and try that. If the Evap system isn't working, what will the symptom be? There are two electirc/vacuum solenoids on the front of the passenger-side strut tower, any idea what they do? The EJ25 had one hose going over to the two solenoids valves, the EJ22 had two hoses going over there. The wiring plugs are exactly the same. I brought the setup from the EJ22 donor, and swapped it over, 2 hoses and all. Thanks for the tip-ins. Jiggs Edit... The EJ22 donor car was an automatic, EJ22 has EGR, the EGR parts, pipe, fittings, vacuum actuated valve, are all identical. So hopefully no EGR headaches...

Swap is going OK, wiringing matches so far, haven't started it yet, still a puzzle I'm not sure of: Evap plumbing... on the 95 EJ22 Leg W donor car, the Evap canister was in the engine bay. On the 99 EJ25 Leg OBW recipient car, the evap canister is somewhere aft by the rear bumper. On both engines, there are three fuel tubes coming from the rear right by the brake master cylinder, fuel, return, and vent, and the three metal pipes on the engine all match up. On the donor EJ22 engine, there are 2 metal pipes, a small one and a larger one, on the front right of the engine that used to go to the engine-bay mounted evap canister. Any suggestions on how to plumb in the extra two little metal pipes on the EJ22? Thanks, Jiggs.