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Tsuru

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Posts posted by Tsuru

  1. Was delayed (getting some tracks down for the new CD) But last night I finally got the engine out!

     

    It was just like it was mentioned. I am considering swapping out the 17mm nuts for the 14mm, (again as suggested) for ease of access. Structurally I do not think it will make one whit of difference when used with an appropriate steel washer.

    It is not as if I am dealing with something that runs several hundred horsepower with torque figures to match.

     

    if the honorable Fuji Corporation were concerned about they would have over-engineered the thing in the first place. However, it is, I believe it to be quite adequately engineered.

    (like the old MB Willis Jeeps, simple and adequately powered)

     

    I am attempting to sort out how to post photos here.

    Oh, this seems to work...

     

    post-47639-0-32150800-1367089278_thumb.jpg

     

    post-47639-0-00310800-1367089363_thumb.jpg

    These was taken late last night...ok, early this morning (heck I could not sleep so I figured I'd do something useful)

     

    The oil filter looks like it has not been changed in YEARS!

    appalling really, the entire vehicle was just driven...and driven...with little maintenance.

     

    (By the way, I am the third owner of this beastie. She was bought locally and never left the valley)

     

    I like these kinds of vehicles, setting them right after all the neglect seems to make for a happier vehicle.

    Parents have a Cadillac that was babied and coddled all its life. (they are the second owners of that...thing...) She is a fussy bitch-made car from hell. "My Windshield has a spot, you left me out last night and i got dew all over me, and by the way did you know that it's been almost seven days since my last wash and wax!"

     

    If one can bring an abused vehicle back to working order, I think that it is better for it. Like a rescue pet, they remember the hard times and are willing to please you no matter what because they know they will be cared for...no matter what.

    The worst that can happen in your hands is still far better than anything that has happened before.

     

    Just my opinion. feel free to discount it and I won't be offended in the least.

     

    Thanks for the input on how to get this thing out, apparently I was over-thinking it. (as I am inclined to do at times).

     

    Once again, My gratitude is freely given.

     

    Respectfully,

    Timothy

     

    edited for grammatical errors and overall content. sort of...

  2. Yeah except a stock scout dana 300 will cost me more than what I paid for the rig. And then I'd STILL have to dump the same amount of money into it that I plan on spending on my dana 20. The d20 will do fine behind a klune v or a nwf black box. 

     

    Now if you wanted to make some cash, I'd pay you for that scout, and then I'll take the d300 and you can scrap the rest of it for money and we can both come out ahead.

     

    EDIT: Yep, the last d300 I saw for sale just sold on pirate for 700$

    I would love to see it live on, even if only in parts in another vehicle, It is in storage at my friends house in Mobile, Alabama.

    It has a frozen 304, the stock D18 narrow, coupled to the holy grail of transfer cases, the venerable Dana 300.

    (and of course the dana 44 tracloc axles. (yup, traclock from the factory)'

    If you are interested, I'll make you a good deal on her. She served me well until I left Florida several years ago. 

    I've been missing her, but also know that I cannot do anything with her from here, and she's just going to waste there in Alabama.

    Also, if you are using the 345 (applies to the other International V-8s as well) you know to shave the heads to compensate for the thicker head gaskets yes? (the original head gaskets were just a thin sheet of copper, all replacement gaskets are the sandwich construction type) shaved heads, or decked block will compensate, otherwise, the valley will never seal and you will leak oil forever, that and you will end up with really low compression, which means no power whatsoever. you could probably burn kerosene at that point, but that really isn't the point now is it?

     

    She also has the semi-auto warn hubs (one position is AUTO, then turn to manually LOCK, fantastic things if you go easy on them in AUTO position)

     

    email me, if you are interested.

     

    Respectfully,

    Timothy

  3. Ok Guys (and Gals),

    Here is a query:

     

    How in the heck do you get the bottom two nuts off that hold the bell housing to transmission on a 1977 EA71?

    Everything else is disconnected and the entire engine is ready to pull SAVE FOR THOSE TWO NUTS!

    (please, that isn't a witticism, it's just a statement of fact)

    I've an engine hoist on the thing and still cannot access the nuts on those studs.

    It there a trick?

    Special tool?

    Witchcraft?

    Do I have to pull the engine/transmission out as a unit and separate it all after?

    even with my rudimentary understanding of the physics and dynamics of engine removal I cannot as yet fathom this out...I did try ti search the board...came up with nothing that applies to my situation. I'll gladly recant my statements and pleas for assistance should someone point me to a link that will assist in my dilemma. 

     

    What is the deal?

     

    Those nuts are difficult to even get a wrench upon. (17mm) there is no way to get a socket on them as there is a serious lack of adequate clearance (especially on the drivers side by the steering input shaft).

    I know it is possible, I've seen the photos.

     

    I require someone who is more intelligent in this field as right now I am dumb about it.

     

    waitingly,

    timothy

  4. This thread should have been "Jack Maintenance...Jack Stands...And the odd Hammer-of-life"

     

    Seriously, Jackstands, and I keep the jack under with just enough pressure at the lifting point to keep it snug against the (frame, differential, etc...)

    Redundancy, and overkill has saved my fuzzy beige backside on many occasion.

     

    Harbor "Fright" equipment isn't all bad, but being half Japanese, I find it difficult to trust the Chinese sweat shop factories with any single piece of equipment that my life may hinge upon.

     

    That Hammer needs to be enshrined.

    Encase it in Lucite, lit from beneath upon a pedestal of black granite.

     

    (Blessed, you are!)

     

    Respectfully,

    Timothy

  5. Someone has to be the new owner or there would never be any cars for you to purchase. My experience with used cars is that the previous owner waits until the expensive maintenance like timing belts and such are due, bubble gums things together to unload it on the next sucker. I tend to buy new and drive them until the wheels fall off. I know who to blame if the maintenance isn't done right.

     

    To each his own.

    Indeed,

    And as long as I can turn a wrench, and maintain some semblance of cognitive faculty, I will buy others "cast off" vehicles.

    I recently obtained a Subaru that is outdated, abused, with a bad engine, will it be worth it? I believe so. Owning it from new? I didn't want one when these were new, I only found myself with one because it was a heck of a deal. (and she can carry a 1949 Kay stand up bass!)

    All my vehicles were purchased for cheap, (or given to me) then fixed for cheap, and driven until I decided to rid myself of them. Not because they broke down and I was helpless or hopeless to repair them. all the vehicles I have ever parted company with were running until THAT owner did something stupid. (wrecked it, or refused to maintain it). Parts are parts and can be replaced. Maintenance schedules exist for a reason. Resurrection of a vehicle is not an impossible task, maintaining it where it continues to give service is entirely within the realm and scope of any clear thinking individual. 

    We here should be proof of that concept.

    And if you can afford new, go for it.

     

    However, the object of vehicle companies is to make new vehicles, and sell them (for to generate obscene revenues)

     

    I believe the objection posted herein is that he only purchased three months ago, and not he cannot even trade it in or sell it for enough to leverage into the better one.

    This is a frustrating situation in any light.

    You have my deepest sympathies, however, it seems to be a cross to bear at this point.

    (that is not sarcasm by the way, I suspect that it must hoover-suck on every level)

     

    I hope you may find peace in this situation either through acceptance or resolution.

    I mean without driving it to the dealership and setting fire to it.

    (that was done at a Chevrolet dealership in Kingman, Arizona in the mid 1970's, although it was effective then, I doubt it would hold the same sway now)

    Were I in your situation, I would keep the sucker, drive it until the wheels were about fall off, take a wrench to her, and drive her until the wheels almost fall off again! Bring it by the dealership whenever they have an open house, loudly proclaiming, "Yeah, the newer ones are nice, but you can't beat the older ones, just look as how mine has held up!"

     

    Remember the words of Cervantes "Living well is the best revenge"

     

    quietly,

    timothy

     

    edited for grammatical errors, my deepest apologies.

    • Like 2
  6. Did you ever get this resolved?

    I am curious to know that you did to make it functional, or did you just plop it back on with a generous helping of duct/electrical/gaffers tape and call it good enough?

    (or is there one less flight sim joystick living in a Subaru and not plying the virtual skies)

     

    curiously,

    timothy

  7. Have you tried contacting Subaru Corporate directly? They hate negative advertising, and unhappy Subaru owners are something they try to avoid.

     

    Sorry for your experience. the tale you tell is a cautionary one replete with the heartbreak of owning something that is worth far less than you may owe upon it. As nice as it may be notwithstanding.

    However, its one of the reasons I refuse to ever own a brand-new-car.

     

    Respectfully,

    Timothy

    • Like 1
  8. even single range would be twice the traction she has now.

     

    I'll hit as many of the yards that I can AFTER I get her running and properly sorted.

     

    Or I might just leave her stock as a clean example of the marque.

     

    I'm ambiguous and floppish about it all right now, I'll know better after she's running then I'll let her dictate what she wants to be.

    easier that way just to let the car decide.

     

    quietly,

    timothy

  9. Moosens,

    Apologies for the verbosity, I have spent too many years writing reports where it looks like you have accomplished more, the wordier they are.

     

    I also completely understand the "zombie effect" from nightshifting. I've done that for almost ten years straight, and I'm ever so glad to be out of it now.

     

    So, to keep this simple,

     

    Thanks!

     

    and I'll wait to hear from Brian at this point.

     

    In the meantime I'll rip into the one I have and post pictures of what I find. Although it may be a little bit with all the gigs and practice and fixing other peoples sewing machines. (finished a rather nice Pfaff 130 yesterday in MINT condition! it was a joy to work on)

     

    and life goes on.

     

    Respectfully,

    Timothy

  10. She's an EA71 2WD Automatic Wagon.

     

    I must say I like the idea of a D/R manual, she would be approaching mountain goat status with the right tires.

     

    and thank you for the comment on the Shakespearean rant. I was rather tired and frustrated that night. My brain just leaks that stuff sometimes.

     

    SO...

     

    To the point,

    What would be needed for to convert a 1977 DL 2WD Automatic Wagon to a D/R 4WD four (or five) speed Manual. I am perhaps getting ahead of myself because I need to either tear the engine down and get her running first. But I still would like to know what will swap in and the degrees of difficulty in each choice.

     

    to which I add,

    "Please".

     

    Thankfully,

    Timothy

  11. they were made simply, it's amazing what one can do to/with these.

     

    It's a system that just works, any year/model generation can be crossed with the same year/model generation (as far as I can tell).

    Note that I am no expert by any stretch of imaginings. But there are some here who are, and their opinion weighs mightily because they have "been there, done that". nothing substitutes for the experiences they've gained.

    (and they are willing to SHARE with us! YAY!!!)

     

    How cool is that!

     

    quietly,

    timothy 

  12. Montana = Snow country, 

     

    I just will need something that will handle snow better than my 2 wheel drive Ranger. (well, actually open diff on the Ranger so it's only a 1 wheel drive)

     

    I'll consider it.

     

    I've also noticed that there are no threads about this, at least the search isn't coming up with anything.

     

    I will hush about this, as I believe I am straying from the original posting thread.

     

    quietly,

    timothy.

     

    .

  13. Subaru Vehicles are a breed apart, there really wasn't/isn't anything like them on the road.

     

    Some say Subaru just copied the Corvair and water cooled it...Some Say that without the Aircooled Designs of Ferdinand Porsche the Subaru would have never been...Some say the Moon is made of Green Cheese...

     

    And they would be wrong...dead wrong...

    the whole bloody lot of 'em.

     

    Welcome to The Center of the Subaru Universe, Well maybe slightly off center...

    If you have questions just jump in, someone here has the knowledge you seek.

     

    Careful though, these guys put ideas into your head and before long you will be tearing into things you never thought you would

    (or could, maybe even should)

    But in the end, you'll end up better for it.

     

    Welcome and Enjoy!

     

    greetingly,

    Timothy

  14. once its off you can take the car to a machine shop and have the end threaded to accept the screw-on shift knob of your choice. I had to do this to the Scout as some yahoo JB Welded the original shift knob onto the stick, I wanted to cut it down a little anyway so I drove it to the machine shop, hacksawed the offending part off and had them thread the end again. worked a treat and simple as pie!

     

    quietly,

    timothy

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