kh0432

You can buy any starter or alternator part by emailing me @ shoptech@pnhautoelectric.com. If possible, get the part # off of the starter or alternator. I can also supply parts by application but as another member stated, it's not always accurate. I will email you with pricing and availability. Thanks, Keith

I replaced the knock sensor on my 91 Legacy. I disconnected the battery for an hour to clear the codes and drove the car for 30 minutes after installing the sensor. I still have a code 22. Is this because the engine hasn't had a pinging problem yet to send a signal to the pcm? Thanks, Keith

Thanks to everyone that replied. I see now that it is accessable without removing the manifold. 1 more question. I still have a code 22. My repair manual states that to check the knock sensor. check the resistance to ground and there should be none. I get no continuity at all. I can see that the plastic is cracked on the top of the sensor. should I replace it? Thanks, Keith

I put reman axles in my 91 Legacy and they were as bad as the old ones. Found brand new ones on ebay for almost the same cost as reman and it sounds like new again.

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TO CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT!!!! This worked in the 60's but don't do it on any computer equipped car. An alternator can be defective and still provide enough current to run the ignition system. Just because the engine does'nt quit does'nt mean the alternator is good. When you disconnect the alternator while the engine is running you run the risk of a momentary voltage spike damaging the computer. Very likely if the alternator has a bad diode. If the alternator is completely dead, the disconnected battery test will tell you that. But it's not 100% accurate and you can do some real damage.

Forget the ammeter. The reason no car manufacturers use them anymore is because you can have a phase out of your alternator and it will still put out some amperage, but not enough to power your electrical load and charge your battery. People think that since there is movement on the ammeter, the charging system is working. Charging voltage is a much more accurate method. A voltmeter only requires a positve and negative connection and since it does'nt draw any amperage it can be wired to a constant hot wire or to an ignition wire. ( ignition prefered ). An ammeter on the other hand must be wired in line to the alternator output and thus requires a 10 gauge wire at minimum. There is also the potential for alot of damage if you were to get a short in that large of a wire if it is not protected with a fusable link.

After 2 years of owning this car, I finally found the diagnostic connectors under the dash. I installed a d/t d/p toggle switch so I can access the codes without taking off the lower panel. I get a code 22 on U check but nothing in D check mode. I checked my repair manual and it states that the intake manifold needs to be removed to replace the Knock sensor. Is this correct? The car runs great @ 172000 miles but I see that alot of people on this site say there is a problem with them. I love this car and plan to run it until the wheels fall off. Thanks, Keith