Nick Nack

I have read it over and over, and I know this much: I need to close the return line and leave the vent line open. I don't know this much: in my picture, which is the vent and which is the return?

Yeah i found a nest inside of my trunk storage this spring, and I'm pretty sure a family moved into the vents. Smells slightly of death every once in a while haha. My kitty is on patrol, but I found a dead body in a cup of water I left in my car last week so I'm pretty sure they're there. I'm lazy. Plus, the fact that I live on a farm makes me a fool to think I can get rid of the mice. Kitty kills ~3-4 a day and hasn't slowed down for over 3 months now. They are endless.

is the return the one with the smaller inside diameter? or is there a way to tell which? in the guide it says the vent is 1/4" and the return is 3/16", but doesn't mention whether or not they have different inside diameters? It looks to me that they have the same outside diameter, so I'm not sure which is vent and which is return. Nothing bad to come from plugging them both though? just definitely don't run them in line with eachother?

i'm pretty sure they used to be the return/vent lines for the gas tank and the hitachih carb it had on it, but when he put the weber on he just cut them and left them hanging there. Maybe he missed that part of the swap guide. I read in the swap guide that i'm supposed to plug the return and leave the vent open, but I'm just a little hesitant to do anything wrong.

Still could be fuel pressure too high though. The mechanic replaced the fuel pump when he installed the Weber but I'm not sure if he knew how low of a pressure was required. I assume so because he's a mechanic

It is definitely a Loyale, and it was definitely carbureted stock. The fuel was not leaking out of the carburetor but out of the return and or ventilation lines coming from the tank as shown in the picture

I have an EA 82 three door coupe Loyale, and I paid for a Weber swap last year. It was out of my skill set, and it was winter with no garage. until recently it was working perfectly. I was climbing a pass with it floored and a fully loaded car. Halfway up the pass I noticed gas spewing into the engine bay. I hurriedly remove the gas cap and it stopped. I proceeded to drive the rest of my trip paranoid but with no gas leaks. Since then I've been using a sock as my gas cap and have had no fuel in the engine bay...the mechanic who did the swap for me suggested I run the two lines together with the tea. I don't think this is safe. There was some obvious pressure that needed to go somewhere. Questions: are these the fuel return and vent lines like I think? if so should I plug the return and leave the vent open? they both seem to have the same OD, but the ID of one is obviously much smaller. I'm scared to put my gas cap back on... I'm no mechanic, but this forum has helped me immensely to keep this car on the road and safe. Hoping for a little more help!

Gonna wax her tonight. Getting ready for a road trip this summer, thinking of doing a DIY roof rack soon

This is the one that avoids hitting the caliper

I'll get my good camera out tomorrow and snap a couple, those most recent pictures are terrible. i definitely have two different styles of the 8 spoke rim that appear to be the same from a distance. One has a little different shape and misses the caliper, where the rear two wheels are flatter and only work with the drums back there. I'm gonna grind the calipers down so i can use any rim in any location.

Updates on her looks

Removed the interior carpet and pressure washed it, painted both bumpers, and hammered on a few dents. Also got given a small bit of ipe wood, and made some new door trim out of it.

I'm an idiot. Problem solved! I just didn't have the plug quite tight enough…..lawl

I recently did my timing belts, front seals, and oil pump seal on my 1986 3door gl coupe, and am having a brain fart about the radiator after i put it back in. It's leaking out of an opening right by the drain plug that runs parallel with the bumper. Looking from under the car it's located at the bottom right hand corner. it looks to be about a 1/4inch opening with no notch for a hose clamp, and I see no hoses nearby that i forgot to reconnect. Did a plastic plug fall off when i was servicing it that i don't remember, or am i not seeing something? Any diagrams, or help would be greatly appreciated! I'm pretty new to all of this, and have gotten so much out of this forum already, I trust people here more than the FL mechanics I would bring it to…especially about an old soobie.

That one doesn't look so bad actually…the stickers that used to be on mine were a little too indie/pushy liberal for my tastes. I'm an idiot. Radiator problem solved. Oil leaks solved. Car is running awesome!

Edit, I'm an idiot.

Honestly, my mechanical experience is fairly limited, but have you messed with the idle adjustment screw on the carb? i can probably take/find a picture of it if you wanted, but it's right on the front of the carb and is a simple flathead screw. counter-clockwise increases the idle and clockwise decreases\ if adjusting your idle while the motor is running doesn't calm it down, i'd start with new oil/air/fuel filters, new plugs/wires, and new fluids. a good tuneup will at least eliminate any of the minor problems and let you focus on others.

Got new fuel/air/oil filters, headlight bulbs, spark plugs/wires, wiper blades, and a cap/rotor for 53 bucks shipped. Dropped some seafoam into the oil and idled the engine for a bit before the change and it came out BLACK...i also have no idea when it was changed last. New oil and filter went in, along with the air and fuel filters. The cap/rotor went in and new plugs and wires except...my longest wire was too short, must have ordered the wrong kit. Also using some of the seafoam as a plastic reconditioner for the bumper and trim, and I did some major upholstery cleaning. I'll have to get pics tomorrow because she's looking a lot nicer. It still idles rough and/or dies at or below 1k. I feel like it could the carb could use an adjustment/rebuild.

Those headlights went on my list for sure. I need an absurd amount of light for safe night driving. I bet the interior of that thing is pretty clean!

Unfortunately it's back to FL, and no plans to go through Nevada. Sorry! Yeah i was really digging the bubble window hatch. I bought the car without even seeing more than one photo of it. Never drove it or anything, but for 600 bucks...I think I got a steal. Thanks for all of the info on the model Miles. That helps a lot to know to look for Loyales on my junkyard runs.

I just got this sweet little thing for 600 bucks, and can't wait to get it looking nicer. Here's what it looked like the day I brought it home. I have the four matching white rims, but the front wheel bearing was so bad the rim would catch on the brake caliper and the car wouldn't move. PO said the tranny was bad because only the rear wheels were engaging, but when I took the front wheel off to fix the bearing, I noticed there weren't any splines on the hub. Hopefully getting a hub from a member here and then it'll have dual range and fwd back! A few decent dents here or there, but it's pretty rust free, has a "decent" interior--which i'm currently cleaning so it's picture worthy--and runs very well. Can't wait to get the wheel back on next week, give her a full tuneup, and take her on a 2,000 mile road trip at the end of the month. I'm also working on removing all of the stickers...i hate stickers on cars Does anyone know what this model is actually called? Was it sold much in the US? I definitely don't recall seeing any of these on the road ever.

Roger that. Thanks for the help everyone.

Thanks for the reply. I was mostly concerned because I read stuff about it possibly tweaking the driveline or other things because even if all of the tires are 175/70/13, they'll have different circumferences if they've been worn uneven or are different brands of tires. I'm gathering that this isn't a problem with older subaru's because they don't have LSD in the back?

Interesting, I guess I may have been reading about newer generation AWD cars. That's good to know.

I've been using this forum so much lately, I figured a real question was in order. So I know if you use 4wd you need to replace all four, but I just bought a 1986 Leone 3door--i'll have some pics later, gotta clean it up a bit--and it had one tire mismatched. The car is currently only running in "rear wheel drive" because the front wheel hub has no splines left, but the tranny is fine i believe. With that being said, once I fix the hub I won't be able to run 4wd without buying 4 new tires. I'm heading on a 2,000 mile road trip in like 3 weeks and am wondering if using FWD eliminates the risks involved with having a mismatched tire?