GeneralDisorder

That is the 4 speed flywheel. So now you have a problem - did they use the 4 speed pressure plate or the 5 speed...... *most* of the 5 speed clutch discs will not fit the inside diameter of the 4 speed pressure plate. The trick is to buy one for an '85 or '86 - those are the one's that fit. Until you open it up - unfortunately there's no way to tell. The only thing you know for sure is that they used the 5 speed disc, T/O bearing, and pilot bearing. You won't know which pressure plate till you open it up. GD

From what I understand - the Nissan truck T/O mounts up the same - IE: it will mount to the T/O "holder" for the EA transmission. It's just larger in diameter so provides a more correct PP finger contact. What is the difference between a 4WD and a 4WD wagon T/O? I'm assuming you mean for 4 speed's..... I haven't seen a difference between any of the 4 speed 4WD T/O's..... GD

Well - I wouldn't be comfortable with the stock 2WD/4 Speed T/O as it doesn't contact the 5 speed/XT6 pressure plate fingers correctly at all. It barely touches them at the outer edge of the T/O. It might work for a time - but with a little wear to the pressure plate fingers it would go right through them. GD

I beleive that is also possible if you use the right T/O bearing - I think some older threads have discussed using a T/O for either a Nissan or Isuzu truck of some kind. I've never tried it personally but that is the biggest obstical to using the 5 speed/XT6 pressure plate with the 2WD or 4 speed transmissions. Also - if you have the flywheel cut right - you shouldn't have any slippage problems with the 4 speed 225mm clutch. On my wagon I can easily chirp the 28" tires with a stock EA81/4 speed. I don't think slippage would be a problem if the clutch is new and the flywheel is cut properly. At least that's been my experience. The 200mm clutch would slip like mad just taking off from a light with the 28's - once I put in the 4WD clutch though it became a non-issue. GD

I don't get real bothered by the parts store counter clerk mistakes - typically I either have the old part with me or can recognize it on sight anyway. What bother's me - and this has happened at least twice in the last year for me - is when I buy (or in both these cases my customer has bought) a clutch set that contains entirely the wrong parts - and not just wrong for the vehicle - so wrong that there isn't even a vehicle that they *could* fit. I got one for a Legacy that had all the right parts except the pressure plate - don't know what it was for but not the Legacy's flat flywheel. And the other one was supposed to be for an '89 GL 5 speed 4WD - but the kit we got had all the parts for a 4 speed and the pressure plate for a 5 speed. The T/O bearing included in the kit didn't even match up to the pressure plate fingers. WTF? The parts store I frequent most - Discount Import Parts - must pay their employees pretty well. I have met the owner on several occasions and he's a nice fellow. Their turn-over is pretty much non-existent and I've dealt with the same counter people for at least the last 4 or 5 years - maybe longer. They know me and I know them - just like at my local dealer. Because of the relationship I get good service and prices. I respect my parts guys and try to treat them right - I've been rewarded in return. Don't get mad at your parts clerk - it won't solve anything. GD

The good news is that you can just use the later 4 speed 225mm flywheel/clutch setup. It will bolt right up and the disc has the same splines as the 2WD disc. You just need to source a 4WD flywheel and have it properly surfaced. GD

It should be pointed out that XT6's use the legacy style knuckle/bearing/axle setup where the axle nut only keeps the drive axle from moveing around inside the hub splines. In the GL's the axles is pressed through the bearings rather than the hub being pressed through the bearings. GD

The roaring from the front is a good sign of bad bearings. Typically a loose axle nut is because the last time the axle or bearings was done - they didn't get it pulled all the way through the bearings or one or both of the bearings wasn't seated in the knuckle. This usually ends up stripping the splines out of the wheel hub. Sounds like the knuckles need to come off and everything inspected. There might be a lot of wear to the hub splines so those might need to be replaced with used one's. New bearings, seals, etc - and inspect everything else. GD

On SPFI cars, the distributor needs to be at 20* BTDC. Timing is electronic on these models. GD

I may not be able to get there tomorrow - woman is off work Mon/Tue.... if you could peek under the hood and let me know if it has ABS that would be great! Thanks, GD

I completely understand - getting a "feel" for the torque of fastener sizes takes years - though it was entirely transparent to me as I began wrenching from a very young age. But I have worked with very intelligent people that have no sense at all for this - a friend of mine (software engineer - no dummy to be sure) misread the torque spec in the manual for his car and torqued an 8mm threaded nut to about 60 ft/lbs..... or tried anyway. It snapped right off of course. Fortunately it was an easy fix but it was clear that he had no idea what 60 ft/lbs should feel like and if that was even reasonable for the size of nut he was working on. Here's what you should do - find a chart online of reccomended torque values for different thread sizes and bolt grades - then take out your torque wrench and see what those values feel like with a nut/bolt in a vise. GD

Ok - yeah - brain fart. I tested both and the driver's side rear sensor is open so that's the culprit alright. Now.... where to get one? Anyone know where to get one cheap? GD

I found a missing fuse - don't know which one it was since the cover and owners manuals are also missing . Looking in other vehicles I have it seems the ABS fuse is a 20 amp - and it's in about the right location to be that one. I'm thinking the previous owner may have pulled the fuse thinking it would rid them of the light..... so I stuck a 20 amp fuse in there - perhaps that's why code 52 didn't show up again. The 29 could be all the crap I cleaned out of the tone rings and the sensor area - the car sat in a feild for a few years, and it looks like the woman drove it with the e-brake on a bit - I had to tighten the shoes quite a bit to get the lever back in a decent place and there was a LOT of brake dust in there for something that is never used to actually stop the car. Am I right in assuming that the rear left sensor would be the *passenger* side rear sensor? I'm assuming so. I'll go check resistance. Thanks for the super-excelent help GD

It's not a critical fastener that needs a specific torque. Just make it tight with a box wrench and you'll be good to go. Mechanic's don't torque stuff like that - they would waste their entire day if they bothered with every single bolt. As my old boss used to say "half a turn before it breaks". Specifc torque values are used when gasket crush or clamping force need to be very accurate - head gaskets - etc, or for fasteners that are part of an assembly that experiences high speed movement or especially rotational forces - axle nuts, crank bolts, pulley bolts, etc. If it doesn't move or hold something that needs a specific clamping force then the torque value given by the book is going to come simply from a table in a machinists guide that lists reccomended torque by size and grade of the fastener. In other words - "hand tight". Just don't break it . GD

I figured I probably should do that - I found an old post with the procedure. ABS light still on but only showing code 11 (which is normal from what I gather). Cleared the codes and then drove it around the block - did a few "panic" stops - codes now show 11 and 27 but the rest are gone. So I guess I need to know what code 27 means.... can't search for it on the board since 27 is only two characters and even with wildcards I still can't get the search engine to play my game. GD

It was indeed pin 6 - thank you for the correct procedure. I have these codes: 11 27 29 52 Any ideas? And how can I clear the codes? Or do they just clear when you fix the problem? Thanks a bunch, GD

The neutral safely inhibits the crank circuit - the engine wouldn't even crank if that were the problem. GD

SPFI pistons would give you 9.5:1....... much higher than that and you'll be running premium if not avgas. Those things look like they might put it up to 11:1 or higher..... I don't think that's what you want since you can't easily get 120 octane fuel...... I mean - they have a cut-out for the plug electrode..... good god man! Looks like something you would see for a deisel conversion GD

More like 36" if it's up the windsheild . Bad times..... Last time I saw that happen... NickyNighteyes EA81 wagon went for a swim in the ocean - about halfway up the windows. It got a AAA ride back to Portland and although I did get it to run - the wireing was a mess and the interior smelled strongly of fish. We pulled the lift/Weber/5 speed off and he bought another wagon for $300 to put them in. It never did drive again - it remained a parts car to the end of it's days. If it got up to the ECU and beyond..... well there's hope since it's only a 12v system but it's going to take a lot of work to fix it right. Pull the carpet and just dumpster it - then pull the drain plugs in the floor and wash it out with a hose. Then you can start the drying process. GD

In my experience - that's new (used) transmission time. The EJ 5 speed's aren't all that reliable given a mild amount of abuse - if it's been abused to the point that it's stuck in a gear - it's very likely toast inside. Drain the gear oil and see what you get. It will probably be full of metal chunks and filings. GD

The solenoid for the EGR is located on the intake manifold. The ECU is telling you that it has an open or shorted circuit for the EGR solenoid. It will not affect how the engine runs - you can either replace the solenoid, or replace it with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor which will look like a solenoid to the ECU and the code will go away. GD

Yes - sounds like something is not plugged in. The fuel pump relay is entirely controlled by the ECU - without the ground signal from the ECU the relay will not close. GD

Yep - typical front axle CV joint failure. Look for torn boots - that's a sure sign. You can get remanufactured axles for about $65 each. I don't know how much installation runs at most shops since I always do them myself but I can easily change both in about an hour if everything goes right. I usually charge $100 for doing both front's since things don't always go according to plan and I like to take my time, inspect, clean and adjust as I go - lube up the caliper slides, anti-seize bolts, etc. As for being scared - they could fail tomorrow or last 25,000 miles that way. Depends on too many factors to guess over the internet. GD

Yes - the GL-10 headliner's are like the visor's in your's. DL's even had vinyl on the visors - there's a lot of differences when talking about interior trim. Almost no two cars were alike it seems. They have their problems - grounding issues can play havoc with the readouts..... Kind of neat in a retro sorta way. Not something you see very often. The later one's in the XT's and such were pretty cool in a "Tron" kinda way. GD