GeneralDisorder
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Posts posted by GeneralDisorder
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The radiator isn't where you need to test the temp. And I would do a test run with the fan disconnected completely. The thermostat is entirely mechanical, and should allow the engine to heat up if it's working properly. Test the easy stuff first - take the thermostat out, and put it in boiling water with a thermometer. If it's bad it will either be stuck open, or will not open at the specified temp. New ones are like $10 or so, so it would be an easy thing to test / replace.
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Check the oil pressure with a real gauge - the dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate. And if there's no noise associated with 15 PSI, then it very well could be your gauge, as I think that would surely cause lifter chatter. Check the shift linkage for that hard shifting problem - could be binding. If it isn't, then it's probably just the first gear syncro going out. No big deal - many older trucks and such didn't even have a first gear syncro. You had to come to a complete stop to get it into first.
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So - to clarify, your saying that the fan is still running constantly, and keeping the engine from warming up?
If that's what you mean, then I would check out your themostat, since even if the fan ran all the time, if the thermostat were working properly, then the engine would still reach operating temp cause the fluid wouldn't flow into the rad till it opened. And as for the thermoswitch - you should test it - just heat it up (blowtorch maybe?) and see if you get continuity. I don't think there's much to that switch, so I don't see why they would be different....
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yes - they come jetted to your engine - it's a kit MADE for your engine by Weber. I don't personally think they are jetted perfect, but they will run, are driveable, and are better (in some ways) than the Hitachi.
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Antifreeze smell generally indicates a blown head gasket. Is the smoke white? That's generally the color. Figure on doing a head gasket - and the heads likely could be cracked as well, so figure on replacing one or more of them.
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Why not buy Weber's and rebuild them - get em off ebay, and set yourself up with the right tools (wouldn't cost much), and get a good supplier of the EA81 and EA82 adapters, jetting specs off the kits, and such. You wouldn't be out much money to do a couple up, and then since you have a couple extra engines lying about - set them up to run on a bench - one EA81 and one EA82. It seems to me that there are a LOT more people in need of Hitachi replacements than there are in need of engines. If you get a weber on ebay for say $50 (just saw one go for $46), and the adaptor plate for $30, and the rebuild kit, you could probably sell them for $200 or so, and make a decent profit. After you've done a few, you would probably get fast at it, and be able to build one up in an hour. Why not offer an EA81 SPFI kit? there's just TONS of SPFI cars in the JY, and if you could supply instructions, and the modified distributor, I'll bet I would buy one.
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There was only one turbo Hatch built by Subaru - the one used in the movie Cannonball Run. All others are fakes. I believe corky said he is in the process of negotiating to buy it....
They can be faked VERY easy since the entire front end of a hatch is the same as the front end of a Turbo Wagon, and all parts will bolt right up.
And on the EA81T - it was only mated to Auto's because it was a new technology, and Subaru could better control how the engine would be run in the hands of the consumer with the auto. They didn't want their name on something that turned out not to be able to handle the punishment of a clutch driven car.
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That's nice - yours is the 84 blue color - same as my hood and drivers fender - mine is really supposed to be "marina blue" which is an 85 Brat color, that I don't think any other cars or models ever got. Maybe the 85 hatch? Anyway - it's a little different. I'll be having mine painted back to it's original color soon. You can see it's a bit lighter, and more metallic. But at least the blue wagons are plentiful, and I got a good hood, and drivers fender in the older blue color that don't look completely ghetto. I had a maroon hood on it for a while - I felt like trash driving it that way, so I got blue instead.
How much did you have to put down to get that one? Looks like it's in good shape other than a little dirt.
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First you have to host them somewhere - then you just click the "image" button when you are posting, and insert the URL to where they are hosted. Email me if you need more help than that.
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cool - could we get some pics? I always like to see other Brats. Here's mine:
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Weren' t you the one looking for a car a few days back? How the heck did you end up with a Brat so quickly?
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Yeah - replace it soon - overvoltage can blow fuses, switches, sensors, and cause fires if wires overheat (although - your fuses are supposed to prevent that).
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First - start the engine, and check the alternator output - the VR could have gone. And don't let her drive it - wireing like that is a fire hazard. I had to save somone from a burning car once - she's very lucky I was there, or she probably wouldn't have a dog anymore (was in the back in a car carrier).
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I think EA82 2WD axles are indeed different than the 4WD ones. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.
Also - check this thread for axle removal / installation:
http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal
And try out the search feature next time as you may have run across this on your own, and saved yourself some time.
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No EA81 ever came with electric door locks. It wasn't an option. So you would have to retrofit something from an EA82 maybe, or aftermarket. But why? Brat's are narrow, and there's only 2 doors? Even short people can reach em.
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It's just an EA81 hatch, nothing special. Mostly they were in Canada I think.
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Ya know - there's probably enough metal there to tap out to the next size, and just use a nice long bolt instead of the silly stud. Take off that peice, and take a look at the head. Maybe one of your friends has a head you could inspect closely to see if there is enough metal. Heck - it's tempting to do this with all of the intake / exhaust studs, and replace them with stainless....
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I second the oil pump - bad oil pressure can cause nasty noises. If it's a auto tranny, then it could have hydraulic lifters, and they can make noise if not properly maintained, and will REALLY make noise with no oil pressure, since they won't fully pump up.
On the turbo wagon - I would sell the whole car for $500, Just the engine and assosiated wireing, dash, ECU, ect, and all the other stuff to convert yours to a turbo for like $300 - you pull it. I would help you of course - I might even be able to borrow my neighbors cherry picker.... he said I could anyway. The car is virgin as far as wireing and all that - I've pulled some interior stuff, but that can be put back easy enough. The turbo motors make maybe 110 HP compared to the non-turbo's at like 85 HP or so.
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Yeah - if it drove great for 20 miles, chances are that it's something very simple - that shop is trying to rip you off. If they say the alt is bad - simply pull it, and take it to Autozone, or Napa - they will test it for free for you. I think rebuilts are like $60 or so, but Shawn is right - find a good place to rebuild it - will probably last a lifetime after that. That's what I've taken to doing - especially since I have a digi-dash car, and it's generally a bad alt that takes them out. Also - since it drove fine, there's probably nothing wrong with that carb. Sounds like an electrical problem - maybe check to see if the fuel pump is running.
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Oh - and if your interested, I have a turbo wagon I want to get rid of cheap. Runs good too. Needs a water pump, and a Power steering pump, but otherwise is fine.
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No mods for a VW will work on the EA81, and frankly the EA81 is more reliable than the beetle engine, and more powerful. The car barely goes down the road as it is with 85 HP - putting a less powerful engine in (that's not watercooled) would be BAD. You wouldn't move, and it would overheat more than likely.
In your words - it's a vastly different beast. And a better one in my opinion - I just sold an 84 with 315,000 on it - ran like a top, and had HP like new - never been rebuilt, never been replaced. I would suspect something else unless you can verify the knock is a main bearing - it's probably just bad timing, or something. I've never seen a soob motor knock because of bad main's - I've heard of people pulling engines that ran perfectly, and finding the mains were chewed, but the engine ran fine, and outward appearances wouldn't have sugested the problem. If you do have to replace it, then just get another EA81 - they are pretty cheap - I've seen em go for like $150
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The clubs are worthless to a good car theif - you just cut the steering wheel with a hacksaw - takes about 15 seconds - they make the steering wheel from cheap plastic, and it's no good replacing it, since they are all made weak to collapse in a collision with your head. Brake pedal locks are pretty decent. A friend of mine in high school put an aftermarket Model-T Ford buzzbox ignition system in his truck - hooked to the door handles. He would electrify them with a switch under the rocker panel. Anyone who touched them would be thrown to the ground with quite a jolt. I like that idea personally.
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Hey Hondasucks - if you want that blown AT, you can have it. I'm not even sure we'll be using the good one I got from Turbone, as my friend's wife sold a very valuable peice of furniture, and now their plan is to buy a little newer used car, so the Turbo wagon may never move again, and probably will be parted, since I have no use for it really (except as parts
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Try replacing the disty ignition module with one from your running car. Isn't too hard...
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Building a brat
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Adding a turbo motor is NOT as simple as grabbing the motor and the ECU - you need practically the entire donor car. The whole engine bay is different, the cross-member is different, the wireing harness for everything is different. Even the battery tray is on the other side of the car (has to be cut from the donor car, and welded in). It can and has been done though, so if you really want to do it, find a beat-up Turbo Wagon, and use it for a donor. If you do the turbo engine, then it will already have AC, but you will need the condensor and evaperator from the donor car as well - and all the parts under the passenger side dash that hold all that junk.
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