GeneralDisorder
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Posts posted by GeneralDisorder
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Have you checked you ECU (under the drivers dash) for error codes? This can help narrow down the problem if the computer has already detected something strange.
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I don't know much about the FI models, but I know that the people here who do will probably need more info - what type of FI do you have? (SPFI, or MPFI). What year is the engine, and what car is it on?
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What happens to the electronic ignition modules is they get hot, and sometimes the integrated circuits will devop a crack that widens when heat is applied, thus severing an electrical connection that was fine when the module was cold. You can't see that crack - they are on a micron scale, and inside the IC's of the board. I've seen this a number of times on other makes / models. And I have heard of the Nippondenso ignition modules failing before. If this happens to you again - maybe replace the ND disty with a hitachi - it's a direct swap.
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well - no, you can't use the 5 spd D/R, at least not without an adapter plate, and I don't know if anyone makes one. The bellhousings are different. The frame rails can be cut without terrible things happening to the front end - the unibody will hold it together. I know that D/R tranny's for the EJ motors were built for european models, but were never sold here in the states, so it might be hard to get one. Also - if you swapped out tranny's, you probably will have to change the length of the axles, to compensate. Also - the engine is too deep, and the radiator will have to be relocated - some have done this with a swing away mount above the engine, and a hood scoop to get air to it - kind of like a hummer.
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2 or 3 times - at 150K miles each = 450K - 600K. At that point I don't think I would be sorry that my driveshaft needed replacing....
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You can also use chevy or toyota 6 lug rims. You will have to either drill out the rim, or add 4 studs to your brake rotors and drums. It's not that hard really, and then your wheel choices are much bigger. The 5 lug swap is an option, but would be much more expensive than the chevy 6 lug conversion, and I'm sure there are plenty of nice chevy and toyota 6 lug alloys that would work.
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Yeah - your gears match - all manuals for EA81's and EA82 are 3.9
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for ball joints, get a "fork" style puller. Many auto parts places - Autozone for one - do the "loaner" tool program. You buy it - then bring it back for full refund when your done, or keep it if you like, since you already paid for it. Pretty cool when you need a puller for something like that, or a bottle brush hone for your occasional engine rebuild, etc.
Oh - and your "grinding" when in reverse - is that a high-pitched whine? Most cars sound like that - it's normal. The reason has to do with the design of the reverse gear - it's a straight tooth gear, rather than a roller style gear, so it's completely normal for reverse to "whine" - and it will pick up as you accelerate in reverse.
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And you need the driveshaft from the 85 too, as well as the carrier bearing. Or you can have your solid driveline lengthened.
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Well - actually - you won't have competing airflow. This was a problem back in the day when fans were made from metal. The switch to plastic fans was made specifically to overcome that sort of problem. At 50 MPH or so, the fans are designed to flex so the blades are flat, and allow air to completely bypass them. Most poeple just don't know that.....
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That sounds like a deal man - get it. Any running driving Brat is worth $1000, unless it's about to fall apart from rust. Replace the carb with a weber - or what I plan on doing - SPFI from an EA82. Also - sorry, but unless it's a 2WD, it's not a 5 spd - it's a 4 spd. Either single range, or dual range - to my knowledge, gen 2 Brats never came as 2WD, so it's got to be a 4 spd unless it's an Auto (yuck). And no - it won't be like your 86 turbo wagon for off-roading - it will be MUCH better. More ground clearance, and with a weber - more torque. Less power tho, and driving them on the freeway at 75 is a little scary. Brats especially because the visibility is different in them, and because they have a different cam, the engine has good low-end, but basically no top end at all.
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You most likely have a bad inner Double Offset Joint (DOJ) on one of your axles. These can be rebuilt, but you might as well replace the axle, since it's less of a headache. I have experienced the same symptoms you describe - I fixed it with a new right front axle. Ball joints - even when they are REALLY bad (trust me on this) will not vibrate - they will cause the vehicle to swerve left or right when you accelerate or brake. I just replaced one that had probably a good 1/4" of play in it. Wasn't pretty, but it never vibrated or made any noises.
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well - technically you want the DGEV - that's the one with the electric choke. However - there seems to be some weird nonsense going on with webers naming convention. The DGAV is supposed to be the one with the water choke I believe, but the one I have (from the EA81 kit sold by weber) says DGAV on it - stamped right into the metal - but it's electric. Just look at the pics on ebay, and find one with the electric choke module. Also - just getting one on ebay isn't enough - it will need to be jetted properly for the engine your putting it on. You can jet it yourself, but you will have to dismantle to carb to do it. Get a book on weber's and that should help.
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Yes - your carb needs to be rebuilt, or go away. The webers are far better for mileage, and power - they are the way to go. I'm curious as to this 1 bbl carb you mention - does your 84 4WD have the carter single barrel? I have never seen one of these personally on an 84 1.8... interesting. Anyway - get yourself a weber, and you will be happy - no more "warm-up" period when you start it cold - just start and drive.
Oh - and if you get a weber for the 1 bbl car - you will need a different (the hitachi) manifold, as the carter manifolds are different, and will not accept the weber carb. The 2bbl car should already be a hitachi, and will bolt right in with the correct adapter plate.
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If your not losing coolant, then it could be running rich. That will also produce white smoke of a constant nature.
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Yeah - and don't pull the tranny out with it - that would just make it messier, and harder to get out. The tranny is only four studs that unbolt easy.
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Yeah - find a good auto machine shop - they can rebuild your disty for you. You probably (unless you are a machinist) won't be able to install the bushings even if you had them, so this is your best plan. There has to be someone local to you - ask some auto parts stores where to go - sometimes those people will know.
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Crappy pads from my local parts house - $17.00, and I've never purchased a pistong tool - use a pair of needle-nose pliers, and put a little "love" on it. Ive done LOTS of brake jobs with the pliers - works great. Oh - and if your wearing out pads in 4k - stop riding the brakes - that's insane - I get like 20k from a set of pads - the cheapest I can find. One time I even put organic pads on there - for $8 I couldn't pass em up. That, and it takes like 30 minutes to do pads.....
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The hatch and wagon tanks are the same as far as I know. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I know there are only 2 EA81 tanks - 2WD, and 4WD. When they moved to the EA82, they dropped the 2WD tanks, and just used 4WD on all their vehicles.
BTW - changing the tank is easy - only takes about an hour. It's messy tho, since your dealing with gas, and usually lots of dirt up in there....
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You know that any EA82 gas tank will work right? They are all of the 4WD type, and should fit fine. Turbone was using an EA82 tank in one of his EA81's believe.
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Couple things about that - if you do the switch method sugested by "dj72", you should put in a fuse, and a relay would be good so you don't have to use a huge switch and wire. Also - you should wire in the thermoswitch so it can also have a say in when the fan comes on. If the engine isn't allowed to cool itself when IT wants, your asking for trouble. Headgaskets (and worse - cracked heads) are not what your looking for if I had to guess. The temp guages on the dash are next to worthless, as they seem to be inaccurate, or simply fail often.
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No need to cap off the exhaust riser - it doesn't go anywhere anyway. It's just part of the heat sheild around the cat. Just leave the heat riser off. It's for winter-time, but a lot of soobs around here that I've seen have it off. The emissions police won't care BTW - it's not an emmissions control.
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Well - found a almost new gasket on one of my parts carbs, so in it went. No difference. So I notice that it will idle pretty normal if I push on the accelerator a little - seems that the idle adjustment screw had worked it's way out somehow. Wierd. I turned the adjustement in a few turns, and now it idles fine. I think it runs smoother now tho, since I cleaned out the carb a bit. Seems to idle a little better now. It's odd that it would work it's way out like that with only a short drive. I drove like 300 miles a few days ago, and it was fine. Today was maybe 20 miles, and it comes out?? I just can't figure that out.
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good idea- I'll check those vac lines. Already ripped off the carb top - I'll have to get a new gasket - the old one is NASTY. Anyone know a good place to get one besides the dealership?
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New Drive Shaft, Same Clunks
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Next time you go to remove the hub - just smack the axle end with a hammer, and block of wood - just like you are taking it out - works great - removed every hub I've encountered that way. Pullers are nice - especially when they're free, but time can be a factor too. Takes me 30 minutes to run to Autozone for a tool - makes my blood boil every time I have to do that....
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