BestCar/OnlyCar
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Everything posted by BestCar/OnlyCar
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I on the other hand tested mine today and said WTF is that metal hitting metal sound? It was the bone shaped support peice under the back end of the transmission being hit by the drive shaft. Gotta take the 4 bolts out and lower that apparently. I am just going to lower it enough. not necessarily an inch and a quarter to match the others.
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Ak Ghandi. Sounds like a great solution. If I had not already lowered mine so much I may have tried it.
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To ystrdyisgone, Hey, sorry I forgot to snap a picture. I actually found a scrap car to pull this off of. It is just a regular transmission crossmember, then on top of each end where the bolts go through to connect it to the body it has a round spacer that just looks like a round piece of 1 1/4" metal with a hole drilled through it. It was only tack welded on by two tacks, and easy to grind off, which is what I did. ystrdyisgone
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BOSS 2" EA82 Lift Kits- $100!!!
BestCar/OnlyCar replied to The Beast I Drive's topic in Products for your Subaru
Okay, Whatever. I was not in any way complaining about Bills kit. I was simply sharing that it has been my finding that with 'a' two inch lift (not Bills in specific, though I do have his) the axle angle is too extreme for normal run of the mill boots to handle. Someone earlier in this thread was talking about axle angles and extended steering couplers and I thought they may find hearing about my experience useful. A lot of other people have also communicated that with 2" lifts they tear boots who had other lift kits. Some people like yourself advocate very careful driving. Some people say 'two months that's good, I go through them every month'. Some people drop the engine to correct the angle. To each his own. I neither prefer to go through boots/axles a lot, nor to drive with excessive care. The town I live in is mountainous rocky dirt roads with huge rocks sticking up and ruts. The car is lifted in part to avoid bottoming out in these conditions, and the axles need to be able to take the conditions as well. Sharp steep turns, etc. I simply came across this thread and mentioned my experience with this lift kit and some modifications that I were recommended to me and which I am finding helpful. -Strangely, you seem to have interpreted this as an attack on 'Bill's" kits, and so in turn are attacking me and calling me "damaged". I'm not sure where your emotional perspective or social skills developed, but I find them somewhat lacking. -
Thanks Wagonist -And thanks for the tip. I will check for the wiring under the radiator! Its exactly those sorts of details I don't want to find out the hard way! I have the steering coupler cut to the right size, and the pipe for around it, but I am going to hold off welding it til tomorrow as I have had enough for today. I am still quite hopeful it will all work out well!
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BOSS 2" EA82 Lift Kits- $100!!!
BestCar/OnlyCar replied to The Beast I Drive's topic in Products for your Subaru
I could have inched the boots up and strapped them higher, as well as silicon boots instead, but it was easier to just drop the E&T also I figured if it stresses the boot, it may also stress the inside of the axle as it too is not prob made to take that angle. -
BOSS 2" EA82 Lift Kits- $100!!!
BestCar/OnlyCar replied to The Beast I Drive's topic in Products for your Subaru
Doing what wrong? It had the lift in it when I bought it. Yeah, they are not rebuilt original axles, so they are not the best, but they should not, and do not break every month or two when the axle is at the right angle. Since I just dropped the engine and transmission it should be fine now. I want to keep the lift, and I don't want my axle boots to tear so easy. Lots of people find the same thing with torn boots with this car and a 2" lift. -
BOSS 2" EA82 Lift Kits- $100!!!
BestCar/OnlyCar replied to The Beast I Drive's topic in Products for your Subaru
(just cutting and welding to make the right size steering coupler) -
BOSS 2" EA82 Lift Kits- $100!!!
BestCar/OnlyCar replied to The Beast I Drive's topic in Products for your Subaru
I had this kit on my car when I bought it and it tore through CV axles. Just putting that out there. I just lowered the engine and transmission 1 1/4" today, This also involves lengthening the steering coupler (I could not locate one the right size to put in) and a few minor things like shortening a radiator hose and modifying the cage around the fan....So far the angle of the CV's looks awesome now and I am very happy and hopeful for the outcome... -
I'm lowering stuff today. Started yesterday, going pretty well with the usual mechanical work hitches ( stuck bolts, messed up threads in one hole got it sorted). I've got the transmission and engine spacers in. I went with 1 1/4" spacers from an outback. Working on the steering coupler. I got that from the same car and I have cut it shorter and need to weld a pipe on after I get it to the right length. I am waiting for my room mate to get home with his better grinder though because it needs to go shorter yet and the one I am using is ridiculous. Wish I had found a first gen legacy steering coupler, at least people say those are the correct length....Now the valves are a little less accessible, but the CV joints are at a much nicer angle. I would like to replace them with original ones rebuilt with silicone boots, but because I don't know where easily to get those ( I think had two old ones, but my room mate busted the teeth on one of them doing something, and no one I asked would rebuild them anyway) I will probably just throw in cheap o'reilly ones. Then I may need to work on my rack and pinion...though maybe not. I think it only leaks from one screw, which I may be able to access while I have my engine crossmember unhooked to put the coupler back on.... The only minor things I have come accross for my car in this process is to shorten a radiator hose, and modify the fan cover. I have not thoroughly examined it yet though.....all in all I feel it is going well and I am hopeful for good end results.
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If I had more experience with it I am sure I would wing it more based on my own logic, but because I don't have that comfort of trusting myself, my experience, I am always a little afraid I will do something that will cause my wheel to fly off or catastrophic engine failure or something. I have done many dumb things. I had one car a 6 cylinder (ford taurus) it had a spark plug wire rubbed through and a leaky power steering pump. I knew both these things, but did not really take care of it until the 9 foot flames coming out of the engine and demolishing the vehicle. I have not spent enough time deeply interacting with cars to have developed a mechanical intuition or natural logic around it. That is what I am working on now. We can't avoid them easily. Most of us require cars for our lifestyle so its worth admitting how big a part of our lives they are and investing the time and the energy to understand and accept them.
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I feel ya. We do what we have the energy to do at the time. Because I don't know that much about cars, and there is plenty I am learning in life the hard way (like all these broken axles) I am just trying to avoid as many foreseeable possible problems as I can. That is why I want to err on the side of caution and keep the transmission and engine level just to be safe. Its probably fine 1/4" difference. I guess like you said, we'll see! lol. Let me know how it holds up! Next week when the parts place pulls stuff for me I will let you know about the transmission crossmember reality. I mean, he said there is one, but its welded. It seems just as easy to make a little spacer if it is a whole crossmemeber. I mean, either way it does not seem a big deal. I am just thinking it is easy to put the jack under the crossmember and lower it to add spacers and I will have to figure a different way to support the trans to change the crossmember, but its probably not hard, can prob just put jack under the trans further back or something...Idk. I just want to get the parts now so I can do it. But I don't want to rush the guy cause he gives me prices off his head so I like to keep him feeling happy and friendly! : ) SO, next week it is!
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Could also weld 1/4" on top of 1" maybe.
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Yeah sure, if I can figure out how to put a picture on here. I myself have never seen them yet. I went under a neighbors car who has an outback and easily saw the engine spacers, but I did not see transmission spacers. I don't know what year that car is though. I am curious about the transmission spacers too. I'm going to try to get under an earlier outback model and see if there are tran spacers that are welded...not ...or what. Wonder if they sell 11/4" steel stock at my local place (or anywhere). Its relatively cheap to buy the used spacers (20 -40 prob) but its only $25 to buy a 20" piece of 1" x 2" steel stock. They'd prob even cut it to the lengths I want at the place too. Sadly no pull and pay type subaru junkyards in boulder. I know one in Denver, but it is for all cars and only has a couple rows of Subarus..still. I ought to visit that place again. I guess once I get my car sorted more.
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P.S. To Mudduck: What Goloyal says seems smart and easy (unless you want to cut metal and drill and weld it because it is fun - I always say Just because it's a bad Idea doesn't mean it wont be a good time). In my town there isn't a good subaru junkyard or anything. The best place to get stuff is a second hand parts department of a local subie repair shop. I went and asked them to pull the outback spacers, bolts, and the regular legacy steering coupler for me and they are going to. the only thing they said that surprised me is they said the spacer for the transmission is actually welded to its crossmember, so if that is the case he is going to pull the whole crossmember for me. I might use that or just cut a 1 1/4" piece of metal. I was just surprised while the engine one is unattached, and the transmission one is welded. I was also surprised cause goloyal didn't mention it and he seems to be well experienced with the cars. Anyway, thats all. Just a small item of note.
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To: Mudduck: I know right? I appreciate everyone's advice, I really do, But if I have to baby the car -whats the point? I'm customizing to increase the range of performance, not limit it. It also does not make sense to leave it in a configuration that consistently destroys parts. Its bad for the planet, bad for time management, hard on the pocketbook, and (as Spock would say) simply illogical.
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Thanks for the link ystrdyisgone. The only ones I was finding were in Australia. (they have some good subaru action going on down under!) This looks awesome. I hope to figure it out and build my own (cause I like to feel competent) but if I just decide to buy this place looks like it has the sort of things Im looking for!
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Thank you everyone answering my questions and guiding me in the right direction. You have no Idea how much easier it has made my life. The car is essential to the life, and understanding it is essential to supporting its proper functioning. I also honestly love the car. I just haven't fully understood it yet. I want to put a tire holder and jerry can holder on the back, lights on the top, and paint it orange with black racing stripes. (or maybe dark green) That is the fantasy at this point. But taking care of its basic functioning and internal organs is first!!
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I'm so excited! I have gone from being overwhelmed and discouraged looking at a problem I knew nothing about to feeling like I really am starting to understand the components involved and believing that I can adjust them without endangering my own life by doing something ignorant and unsafe. Going into the city today and tomorrow so I can pick up the parts and head toward installation! To: Golayal: Thank you so much for your help. You really seem to know the cars and what you are talking about. I have only a couple final questions for you just to really understand the reality of how the car works. 1. could I lower the engine 1" and the radius rod support 1" (extending the steering coupler of course. I can cut and weld this to proper length if I end up going with 1" instead of the outback 1 1/4") and leave the transmission where it is? 2. Do the engine and transmission have to be lowered the same amount? (ysterdyisgone lowered his engine 1 1/4" and his tranny and radius rod only 1" -is that kosher? do where the engine and trans connect in the bell housing have to remain the same straight and level?) Thank you! Patty
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To: Wagonist. Thank you. I got under the car and I see the radius rod and how it is supported by a metal plate, and that this plate could be lowered independent of the gearbox crossmember. Would it be ok to do that. I mean, can I lower the engine 1" and leave the transmission where it is? I know the two connect in the bell housing, and I wonder if they both have to be lowered the same to keep the angle there the same, or if its only an inch if the engine can be lowered (and the radius rod) and the transmission left where it is.
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To: Goloyale, Thank you for your advice. You say "buy spacers from a Legacy Outback 96-99..... the ones for the front crossmeber, and the ones for the trans corssmember. get the bolt(s) too. and buy a regular legacy steering coupler. install on your car. done." This sounds very straight foward. When you say "a regular legacy steering coupler" is that also 96-99 or what do you mean by "regular?" Do you mean a newer year one? Thank you, Patty P.S. I assume I will still need to adjust my stick shift and 4 wheel high low shift stick.
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To: Todd: I plan to possibly move those closer, or look for a longer boot if it looks like I need it after I correct the angle. .. It depends about the river crossing. When I work in Skagway with sled dogs in the summer I like to cross the river to the dog yard and park on the close side every day so that is a good thing to consider.
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Josh, You also say "lift blocks are no good if the camber is positive to begin with" When you say 'camber' do you mean 'the slight sideways inclination of the front wheels of a motor vehicle'? If so how would the lifts be built wrong that would cause this? Also are you saying the 1" drop will not correct for this? It seems the 1" drop will correct the extreme angle my CV's are at right now, which is what I want to correct. Thanks, Patty
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Josh, How can I find Shawn on here? Also when you say "I've dd a few 2" lifted cars on 27's" what does this mean? What are 27's? I want to preserve my turning radius so I am going to drop it, troublesome as that may be, however, I do want to get good axles and I would like to contact this Shawn to find them. Thank you, Patty
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I don't know how you make a picture attach http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radius_rod What I am finding for 'radius rod" here is an arm that runs to the wheel parallel to the control arm, rack and pinion etc. There is a picture in the wikipedia link above. Is this also the part you call the radius rod? I will look tomorrow and see if it runs through a plate which attaches to the transmission cross-member.