BestCar/OnlyCar

To: Wagonist: Thank you. You say: "The radius rod goes through a plate which also holds the front gearbox crossmember. These need to be spaced down also." Okay. I have been learning that I also will need to adjust the five speed gear shifter, and the stick that attaches to the transmission and shifts into/outof four wheel high and low. I'm going to guess that by 'front gearbox' you mean transmission. (hmmm. I have a transmission in the front and a rear differential in the back as far as I understand and see). So I am aware of lowering the transmission (or gearbox) crossmember, and I looked at the bolts to do that, but it sounds like you are also saying there is also a plate there which the radius rod goes through that needs lowered. Its late and dark at the moment, but I will look that over tomorrow, examining this radius rod and plate to further understand what you describe. P.S. every time I am searching, I am finding the best equipment on Australian sites. I was looking at these beautiful custom bumpers with an outward swinging tire mount and another outward swinging jerrycan mount. Much like I had been fantasizing building for my car. Also lots of custom bumpers, racks, lights, etc. It seems like there is a good group of Subaru enthusiasts there.

What is the best crossmember spacer? I see ones that are just a hollow tube that the bolt runs through, seems like those could be made out of cut pipe, and I see ones made out of hollow square metal tubing, and also solid metal chunks...

To Gloyal: Why do you suggest 1 1/4" spacers? I am currently planning on going with 1"

To: Wagonist: Thank you for taking the time to explain things to me. I see the steering shaft and how that works and why it needs lengthened. My current plan/understanding is that I need to drop engine and tranny (involves 1" spacers and longer bolts) and that I need to figure out which steering coupler is the correct one or add an extension at the joint on the steering shaft. This all sounds do-able You say "Suspension members refers to any part that moves (compared with the car) when the wheels go up & down. There are 2 on either side for the front. A folded metal bar that goes directly across (commonly called the Lower Control Arm or LCA), and the round bar going back at an angle (called the radius rod here, not sure what in the US)" Do I also need to do something to these 'suspension members' ? Thank you, Patty

To:catch this fox Well, I just spent a long time searching. Not sure what my glitch is. Putting in words 'lift kit' and searching under 'forums' not finding anything. Is there a different way to search the 'archives?'

To: catch this fox: Hmmm. I know what the cross members are now and I looked under and saw where/how to drop both the transmission and engine, and I know where the strut tops are, but I don't know what the "suspension members" are? I did not lift the car, the fellow I bought it from did just before he sold it. he just used a piece on the front struts and a piece over the back tires (don't know how to describe). I am going to add 1" spacers. -what other pieces are involved that you know of? I will search the archives. Not sure I will know what I am looking at!

To: Wagonist: I have 15" rims and 205/70 tires so yeah, even dropped an inch it is still better clearance. You recommend "You'll need to extend the steering shaft, or at least have the double uni jointed version (off a car with power steering)." My car does have power steering (was just under there today fixing a power steering fluid leak) but I don't know what kind of steering shaft I have. I mean, I was just looking at it today, but I will have to look up what "double Uni Jointed" looks like. are there double uni jointed for both power and non-power and you are saying to make sure is from a power one? Is this extending the steering shaft a difficult thing? -and- is there any other problems I will discover doing this you can warn me about?

Okay all! Thanks for the help. I am going to drop the engine and tranny an inch and I think that will sort it. I may also slide the boots up and/or buy better axles. I am going to look around and see if I have some or buy some 1" x 2" steel, cut it, drill holes and make 1" spacers. I looked and saw how the cross-members are bolted and it looks easy-"ish" I want to go to 1" spacers. If I dont just make them is there a way to buy them easy (like what would I ask for?)

Okay all! Thanks for the help. I am going to drop the engine and tranny an inch and I think that will sort it. I may also slide the boots up and/or buy better axles. I am going to look around and see if I have some or buy some 1" x 2" steel, cut it, drill holes and make 1" spacers. I looked and saw how the cross-members are bolted and it looks easy-"ish" I want to go to 1" spacers. If I dont just make them is there a way to buy them easy (like what would I ask for?)

To: eat live breathe subaru: I am pretty sure the engine mounts at least are good because I had the engine pulled and a re-manufactured one put in. At least I hope the garage I go to is decent enough to tell me if they weren't as they did that. It is a good Idea about the boots. I have been reading people do that, and also spray them with silicon spray to make them more pliable. To: USMB is life: Wouldn't that then lower the engine and transmission and reduce my clearance? I need the clearance where I live. It is just dirt roads where the dirt constantly erodes and large rocks stick up. My old car was constantly hitting the bottom and that is part of what the lift is achieving avoiding. To: its a sickness: Yes, I think it is a sickness. at least it sure feels like it today. I don't really know what the crossmembers are (yet). Is that the pitch stopper? The bar from the firewall down to the top of the engine to keep the engine from twisting?

Hey all! Last summer I bought an 88 GL with a 2" lift that had just been put in. I was sketch about how that would affect the CV joints but decided to ride it out and see what transpired. Less than a year later I have replaced three, and am driving with two ripped boots right now. Looking at it what it looks like is needed is a longer axle shaft, and a longer boot as well because the boot tears where the angle is too extreme. ( brand new one been on less than two months ripped today. Real bummer). I don't want to take the lift out. Its part of what I love about the car, and the clearance is useful. But I don't know spoob to be honest. Where can a girl get custom axles? Does anyone know how I would make these? Can I buy different rubber boots that are longer that would fit and I can swap out? Are there slightly longer ones from a different model that can swap? Surely someone else must have done this before and figured it out. I know some people swap the whole set up from a different model to go to the other lug nut system, but I just have the custom alloy wheels and all the other parts are the original set up. Any word on this would be appreciated. I don't want to drop it, but I have to find a solution. Ta! Patty

@ Buddy: Thanks! Every girl loves to hear good things about her engine!

@ GrossGary: Northwet said "Yes, their cooling design was not upgraded and can't handle power increase, regardless of how big of a radiator you put on it." ..but I guess you're right that is talking about with a power increase. The people at http://www.ccrengines.com/ where I am having it rebuilt said their cooling design was not upgraded when they went to the Ea82 form the Ea81. They also said those engines run hot, as did someone in the world who related it to the fact they run better at higher RPMs. Also when I drilled the people at the rebuild place about what goes out in these engines after the rebuild it was 1. they leak (not the end of the world, wish they didn't, but I am told they do) and 2. the head or the head gasket. I was told this happens because they run hot and warp, causing the head gasket to leak, and the head to crack (I think) eventually. I just don't understand why people say a rebuilt will last 100 to 200 thousand when I think of a new one lasting up to around 300,000. One on one of my cars is at 268,000 and runs well. The one I took out of my old one in my foolish quest for perfection was at bout 250 and ran pretty good too. I am trying to grock the weak point on a rebuild, as well as on this engine in particular and do what I can to protect and take care of it. I have not been told they over-heat, but that they run hot, and that causes problems with the head over time. Thank you for your thoughts on this.: )

@Milies: Thanks for your further thoughts. I switched out the ECU first thing and it did not resolve the problem sadly.Happily It was quite simple as you say. Timing belts were not done recently. Plus, again, wouldn't that affect how it runs? Not just that it wont start once it has a hot engine? I have not gotten a chance to play around with it lately. I have been taking care of the one I bought to drive while I sort this one, and also took an engine in to be re-manufactured. Man. These cars need more care than kids!

Hi Miles, I have not removed any fuel lines. The fuel pressure is good as verified by disconnecting one side of the hose as it goes into the engine and putting a pressure guage (sp?) on it. If there was something wrong with the timing belt alignment wouldn't that make it not able to run perfectly well when I only run it once? (forgove me, I dont know that much about these things yet) I will try to look at the fuel pressure regulator and learn its function and explore if this could be a cause! Thank You, Patty

Thanks on your comments all. Next time I will probably move up to the EJ22. The reason I am shy to go with a used engine is I had a bad experience with that last time. (first go-round). I bought a used low miles engine, had it put in they did a crap job, I had to move across country just when it happened and it basically leaked the coolant and the oil. The coolant I caught and fixed. (seal on thermostat casing)The oil only leaks when I go higher speeds (like 65-75) and possibly over mountain passes. I don't understand why this is, but it ran really low on oil before I caught it so I am sure the engine got screwed. That made me regret not putting in the money to get a remanufactured by a quality outfit and I decided to try that this time. Also came to the realization that if I love this kind of car (and I do) there is a big investment required in the relationship. I have to know the car and learn a lot more about auto mechanics. You cant just trust your car to random people out there in the world, and finding an good mechanic for this car seems less likely than striking gold. One of you said this engine does not run hot, but the majority of you do and the people I have spoken to in person, so I am going to go with either the double radiator, or the oil cooler. I wonder if one is better than the other? I like the Idea of the oil cooler just cause its a new Idea to me, seems cheap and not to hard, kinda fun...: )

So happy to hear you guys talking about this tpic. Just dropped an EA82 to be remanufactured today and came on the web to learn more about the head as it seems the weak point. I was wondering if there was any source of new better heads. (sounds like no, only the option of gen 3, which are suspect about being better anyway) and confirms my Idea that looking to the cooling system may be key. Thanks! Patty

Well. I took an EA82 engine to be re-manufactured today. It is the right engine for my 1988 GL and though I had considered replacing it with a EJ22 I dont have the money and I'm just not ready to go there as far as complications and more unknowns. Now, the guys at the shop did not seem too enamored of this particular engine type. They feel it leaks, it runs hot because the cooling system was not modified after the EA81 to give more cooling to the EA82, and it does not give a lot of power for its size. I hear them I totally hear them, but I also think these cars with this engine do tend to go forever. I also got the idea that what may fail if anything on a rebuilt engine is the heads can warp or crack, and the head gasket go, because of the fact that this engine runs hotter than other types, and that the water pump is on one side so the engine does not cool evenly on both sides and causes it to warp. Because of this I am considering a radiator upgrade, or an oil cooler (just heard of those). Does anyone else have an opinion on the EA82 they would like to share? or have you replaced with a EJ22 and if so what is your feedback on that. I sure would like the extra horses. I just cant afford them/deal with all that right now....

@ MilesFox: Hi Miles, thanks for your reply. Its not the temp sensor. Already tested that. If I get what you are saying with the Ignition amplifier module the answer is yes. it is part of supplying spark. It is good to know about this part, but since I get good spark without fail it can't logically be the answer to this particular problem right?

@MilesFox: The Ignition Amplifier Module....I have not found this yet, but is this to do with spark as it is on the coil? I am getting good spark.

@Scoobiedubie: as I said, it is getting spark. However, I will find and check the black wire in the fusible link box! Thank you for the suggestion. @ MilesFox: I will find out what the Ignition Amplifier module on the coil bracket is and test it. as to your statement "The crank sensor is the optical disty" I get what the crank sensor is. I was told that was not it. By one person I was told my car does not have that. And by one person for some reason it did not work with these symptoms I don't recall so I am willing to revisit it. Sadly I only have the Hainz and Chilton and not the manufacturers manual for the car which does not help. How does one go about getting a decent book for the car? I don't know what "optical disty " means? Thank you on the tip on harnesses as well!

Let's see if anyone has been through this problem before. I have a late 1988 (manufactured in Sept. uses some 1989 parts Im often told?) GL wagon. It starts good and runs good. If I don't turn it off (just fill it running at the pump) it will run forever, no problems, but once I turn it off I have to wait 2-5 hours til the engine temp cools down and it will start again. I switched out the ECU and that made no difference. Someone else tested the ignition relay for me and the ECU grounding. Fuel pump has good pressure. It gets spark fine. I tested the temperature sensor, When looking in the fuel injector while trying it I don't see any fuel injection going on. However, one of the three mechanics who looked at the car and gave it back scratching their head (this one at an actual expensive dealership) said he thought it was injecting, but just running lean...I don't know. My next step is to swap out a new (read different used but hopefully functioning) section of the engine that has the engine wiring harness, Throttle body injector, and a lot of sensors...I might not sound too clear on that because I am only learning about the innards of my car in detail recently. I could change a tire or an alternator or something, but nothing this involved. In the meantime I have bought another Subaru 1988 GL wagon (yea!) to have something to drive. It was intended originally to maybe donate parts to the other, but now I love both children and neither will be cannibalized! Both will be saved! The new wagon is red, lifted, and I just put 15" wheels on it! If anyone has been through this Let me know your wisdom. Patty