yblocker

The suggestion by Wonder wedge to check the temp sensor is a good one. I had similar symptoms as you are describing, and changing it out finally solved it. The engine temp sensor is the 2 wire unit with the green plug for the ecu. the single spade sensor is for the dash gauge. Remove it and plug the hole in the head to stop the leak, then clean the sensor up a bit and test it with an ohm meter. Not sure of the spec, it should have continuity between the terminals.

That is an electrically operated solenoid vacuum switch. Your EA82 has two of them. One controls the EGR valve, the other one controls the vapor canister flow. Each one has its specific connector. They can be tested by measuring the resistance between the terminals (I think about 30 ohms). And they should click when 12v is applied. They are failure prone, hard to find now and expensive. The junkyard is full of 80's 90's cars that use similar vacuum switches that can be used instead, though i have several of the old style in reserve.

The fact that you have to hold the key a certain way to keep it running, and that the problem is intermittent suggests that the switch or wiring between the switch and the coil is bad.. Try jumping the batt + to coil + with a jumper wire to see if the symptom improves.

Right. So obviously the joints are manufactured someplace if you can buy an entire new axle assembly. Its just that mere mortals can't purchase the joints separately. Its really the quality of the joints that you feel (or not feel) as you drive. I can use an Autozone special I guess, but I'm hanging on to the OE axle in case I find a source for good joints.

I see boots for sale at Rock Auto, Napa, Auto Parts Warehouse etc, but no joints. I've seen that '93 at P&P. I may pull them off that car.

I can buy a "new " drive axle all day long for $75. Quality is hit or (often) miss I realize. If i want to rebuild my OE shaft, what is a good source for joints and boots? What is a quality brand? Car is a 1992 Loyale, 5-speed

Can't comment on Blue Devils...but have you changed the fuel filter? Fuel pump delivery checked?

You description is a little scant, but of the 3 EA82s with SPFI that I've driven, all 3 seemed to have a bit of a part throttle dead spot at that same rpm. All these cars pulled well to redline at WOT, were very well behaved at low rpm/low speed work, idled well and acted fine otherwise. Or does it fall flat on its face at 3,000 rpm?

What does it read when hot? If it's over 60 psi at 3,000 rpm when hot, then try replacing the pressure switch on the oil pump. Easy to try. Mine did the 85 to 60 psi thing until i changed out the sender.

My unblown '92 failed up here in Oakland due to high idle. You need to get it below 800 rpm first (ideal is 700). My coolant temp sensor was the main glitch, as mine was idling around 1,000 rpm. Once I replaced the CTS it idled right down. I cleaned out the idle air valve, and replaced all dry vacuum lines too to eliminate vacuum leaks.

Good one! The 292 is in this old Ford.

Heh heh...thanks TallonX.

If it's carbed, then it's likely the jets can be changed. Is it a Hitachi carburetor? No matter, figure out the carb and start doing a search for how to jet it. I think some carbs meter idle fuel through the jet(s), with others just having a metered orifice. You may have to source a different (more low altitude stock) carb in the end or rebuild yours. Check the timing first. The 20 degree mark is stamped into the ftywheel- just keep rotating it till you see it. then get some cleaner or oil or something and clean the area up then mark the 20 line with white paint. Use the left front plug wire for your light- yes you'll need a timing light. For EFI cars you connect the 2 green connectors by the firewall above the master cylinder before you set timing, not sure if this is true on carbed cars. Then just loosen the hold down bolt(s) and get the mark to line up with the pointer cast into the motor. The idle speed should be less than 800 rpm while checking. In California the smog guy should mark on the report why the car is failing. Incorrect ignition timing and high or low idle speed are examples of reasons for instant failure before they even sniff the tailpipe. The fact that you are failing because the sniff test says you are lean/misfire would therefore suggest the timing is within the allowable 18-22 degrees btdc range because if the timing was off you'd already have failed. I would still check it if it were me- and you'll always have a timing light then! Also- the idle mixture may simply be needing adjustment- check into that after the timing is verified.

Is the timing set at about 20 degrees btdc? High altitude cars are commonly set with timing advanced by a degree or so per thousand foot elevation. So at 6,000 feet, a good setting would be about 26 degrees btdc but at sea level like where you are, it needs to be 20. The smog guy will certainly verify that the timing is at normal factory settings though....This is an EFI car right?

ruparts- I think you are probably right. The solenoids I have all ohm about the same, but don't seem to operate with 12v on the bench. Installed on the car however, it's obviously working, since the cold idle is high then drops by itself after a few minutes without touching the throttle. I have several posts on the same car (92 Loyale) on the board lately related to solving a high warm idle. In the end I think the main culprit was an intermittent coolant temp sensor. It would cause the idle to fluctuate too, and cause a CEL while the idle wandered back and fort. The CEL would come on them go off again several times during warm up. A different sensor procured from a local Pick N Pull seems to have solved it. The replacement sensor tests consistently whereas the other one tested open sometimes and seemed OK other times.

In the end I pulled the throttle body, and adjusted the throttle stop so that after the screw just starts to move the butterfly,then I turned it in 3/4 turn more. Then I adjusted the TPS to the book using feeler gauges. The switch now has continuity when the throttle is closed, but opens at about 0.028". I cleaned the IACV, put a new base gasket on the throttle body, replaced the fuel filter and replaced all questionable vacuum lines. The Idle air bypass screw is about 2 1/2 turns out from seated. The coolant temp sensor was also intermittent when I tried to ohm it, so I got one off an '89 in the wrecking yard, (along with the throttle body for good measure) The idle is now about 700 +/- 50 rpm. I do hear an irregular phtt phtt phtt from the exhaust, so I replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The car runs really well except for the slight miss at idle that sounds like a lean idle condition on a carbed motor. Any ideas on this? I think I'm getting close! No CEL at the moment...

All three of the ones I have ohm the same. All three make no noise when 12v is applied. Guess I have to start looking for one....

Been going through sensors and solenoids on the 92 Loyale ea82. I have identified everybody except this one. What is this sensor, and can it be tested?

Thank you for the reply. Can I test the solenoid itself off the car? I have three of these solenoids and find it hard to believe that all three are bad, but I may be that I'm missing something. 12v to the terminals should cause some response right? Is there a spec for resistance between the terminals?

Was having slightly high idle speed issues which caused a failed smog test. I had backed out the throttle stop screw to attempt to drop idle speed. I know that's considered heresy.... Last night I pulled the TB off the manifold, and set the throttle stop so that it's just touching the cam then about 3/4 turn more. The throttle blade doesn't hang, and that adjustment seems fine. I then set the throttle position switch to the book so it makes contact when closed but then opens when a .032 inch feeler gauge is inserted between the stop screw and cam, but is still closed with a .028 feeler. I have checked all vacuum lines and have replaced the ones that had hard leaky ends. I will replace the TB base rubber gasket too. I pulled the IACV off and soaked it in biodiesel which cleaned it up nicely. So now I'm to the point of checking the solenoid/motor which is the reason for the above question.

I'll give this a bump and state the question better. I have been going through the idle control system, and would like to test the solenoid that operates the idle air valve. I have the solenoid (or motor actually) on the bench with a couple of spares. Should these things operate when a 12v source is applied? I get no signs of life,,,,

Car is a '92 Loyale ea82. I have three IACV solenoids laying about and each one offers a resistance of about 100 ohms. When 12v is applied directly to the terminals all is silent. All three. Are all three bad?

'92 Loyale 5 speed ea82. I just got the car and need to get it smogged, but am chasing some minor idling issues. There are 2 solenoids on this car related to evap and egr function. Based on the sticker map under the hood, they appear to be plumbed correctly. I have replaced the rubber vacuum lines. My question is how to test the solenoids. EGR to throttle body base nipple solenoid: Is this one designed to allow vacuum flow through when energized, or does it block off vacuum when energized? Same question for the solenoid that is connected between the the evap can and the vacuum reservoir. Presumably I can test them by supplying 12v.

Oakland California. But I have never seen this before. My wife too the car in so I haven't met the guy. I have an older smog printout for the same car (different shop) that passed it with an idle of 1025 rpm. I'll clean the IACV and adjust the throttle sensor and see where it sits then.

Is the purge control solenoid the one mounted next to the egr solenoid? Do they normally allow air flow through them when not energized?