Bushwick

If it's not the coil, it could be something else failing like an O2 sensor short. I had an O2 sensor shorting internally on another car (first code was for the preheat) and eventually it caused a very random engine misfire which caused a back fire that literally blew the muffler apart at the seams like an M80 went off in it. Never would have guessed a simple short like that would cause so much mayhem, especially considering it was the rear O2. Do CPS or cam sensors on these cause misfires? Just food for thought. Also, does it recur with a code reset? Is the engine actually misfiring? Or is just the code? Might want to inspect the plugs and make sure there isn't debris on them or oil, etc. Double check the gap too.

I've never used MMO before and not a fan of oil additives, though I respect others use them with apparent success. The valve covers need pulled anyways (passenger side leaks slightly, and driver side should match- seriously 3 bolts- not complaining here) and since it's only 8 very easy to remove bolts and the entire rocker assembly comes out, I definitely don't mind inspecting the lifters if they don't build up after the oil change. At $4-$5 a pop, I'd rather spend $85 for a set of 16 new lifters and be done with it.

DO NOT pull those boots again. If that current touches you, I think it's high enough to be lethal (don't prove Darwin right buddy). Disconnect the battery for a few minutes (ENGINE OFF) and see if the code resets (assuming it's like other cars). If you get the code again, get a volt/ohm meter and see what the the readings are for the IAT. If there are out of spec, replace it. rockauto.com sells IAT sensors at reasonable prices, otherwise find one at a bone yard. As for the 1-3 misfire (assuming it isn't from pulling the boots) put new spark plugs and wires in, reset battery again, and see if it stops. If not, might need a new coil. Check the connections for the coil while you are at it (It's power connection).

Great tips everyone, much much appreciated! Took a chance at Pull-A-Part to see a 229k mile 97' Legacy that had been there a month fully expecting the the car to be bare and cross member to be rotted. Surprisingly it had been replaced previously so it was in near perfect shape! Cost $18! Those 2 nuts on the back of the differential cover were nasty. Got everything off except those, and was stumped what to do. Thankfully, I have this 4 pound 12" solid steel "rod" and was able to bang a 16mm deep socket on and both and breaker bar loose. Will tackle the rear diff cover too since it's easy to get at with the cross member dropped. Is there a gasket? Or should I use some 518 anaerobic sealant? Also, the 2 rubber bushings, are they replaceable? Take it they are pressed in? They seem OK and aren't rotted, just curious. After watching a you tube video where the guy replaced/bled his lifters and did a before/after of the running engine, I'm 95% certain it's lifter noise. Will definitely need to get some good Mobile One synthetic (10w 30 I guess) in there and run it once the rear is back together. If they don't quiet, I'll spend the $80 and replace all 16 lifters. 3 bolts hold the valve cover on? LOL. Such a nice welcome. Oh, you can't swap in a solid lifter setup, can you? If you just get the rocker assembly from a donor? Pulled a cover off the 97' out of curiosity and pulled the rocker assembly to examine. Can't believe something so tiny and simple can hold up for so long. Would think those tiny set screws would break or wear down to nothing! No trans filter? I NEVER would have guessed

Next time just squirt some starting fluid in. If it fires, then you aren't getting fuel. If it doesn't fire, you aren't getting spark. Much safer than letting fuel squirt out. All it takes is a spark from something and poof no more

Who did the engine rebuild? Sounds like a head gasket issue (white smoke = coolant; blue smoke = oil) and/or rings. Were the heads checked for warping? I'd do a compression test on each cylinder and report the numbers.

Thank you guys! You both added some very helpful info specific to the car and it'll save time getting to work on it knowing what to look for right away. Yeah, there are bumper scratches and what not from her scraping stuff, but it's all cosmetic. Tires are in good shape as are the rims. Good point about the alignment as it'll need one anyways once the cross member is fixed. Built in trap door and trans drain plug?? Very nice. Cheap fluids? Saab manual trans fluid cost $13 a liter and you need 5 to flush the old out with new superseded fluid and final fill. Subaru is like how Chevy used to be cheap to work on. Kinda wishing I'd dumped my money into a WRX or something instead of the 9-3. Anyways, what is the best way to deal with the rack and pinion dust boots? Just unbolt an end or something and it slips on? Does there need to be grease in there? I'm thinking lifters then. Does the head need to come off to get them out? Do these engines get any oil sludging issues in the head?

When wheel bearings go bad (using non Subaru as reference) you typically get noise and eventually grinding, some play if really bad. Spinning wheel by hand should make noise and transmit a slight grind if failing. If on the highway and going around a long right/left-hand turn, it can make noise going one direction, and not the other, or be all the time, etc. Reason for the one way and not the other is it's loading the bearing on one side. In/out play can also be a tie rod, ball joint, something loose with suspension, etc. With the tire raised, move it 12 and 6, 9 and 3, 10 and 4 etc. and look at the ball joint and everything else attached. Should be pretty clear to see whats moving. Auto Zone rents a small bearing press that can be operated with a ratchet. You leave a deposit and get the deposit with the tool returned (or keep the tool and they keep the deposit) so it's "free" to rent it. I've pressed bearings in/out with that and heavy duty 2 arm pulley pullers before (non Subaru). I just used a large socket or grabbed one of the sleeves from the press kit and used that with the pulley puller as alternative putting pressure on it in the same spot a press would) and had no issues. Just make sure it isn't crushing the sides or damaging the bearing. If in a pinch or low on money, this works. I buy from rockauto all the time as parts for my Saab are typically 4 times the price of what a Subaru price would be for an equivalent part ($180 for 1 engine mount, $150-250+ for a fuel pump, $65+ for head gasket, etc.) and they're typically cheaper than O'Reilly's or Auto Zone even with cheapest shipping selected though it helps to order more than one thing to offset the cheaper shipping fee. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432738,parttype,1672

We have Pull-A-Part around here and they flat-rate 4cyl, 6, 8, etc. regardless of what it comes from. Though technically you could argue it's a 2cyl head and throw them for a loop I can get a COMPLETE DOHC 4cyl head with cams for $61 with an $11 core charge. SOHC $56 with $10 core. Entire 4cyl engine is like $155 with a $55 core charge. That member isn't out of touch bud. Here's a link if you still have doubts: http://www.pullapart.com/parts/pricing.aspx?letter=&loc=25pricelist You jealous?

Hi, just bought a 95' Legacy L with a 2.2L NA, auto and 177k primarily as a winter vehicle and a back up car. It's a first Subaru for me, so don't get crazy on me. I looked it over pretty good and caught everything that seems to need attention, but figured I'd ask about these issues before jumping into them. Coming from a Saab 9-3 turbo DD the nearly 75% CHEAPER prices you guys get to pay for parts on this older setup was a huge tipping-the-scale factor in buying this (plus AWD) car and the fact everything inside the car works. The interior is basically perfect and flawless. A 72 year old woman owned this for 77k miles so it definitely wasn't beat on nor smoked in. Anyways, here's the list: 1. Rear cross-member has rot and needs replaced before road worthy. I could probably weld in patches and reinforce for next to nothing, or go the replacement route, thoughts? What years/models cross over and are a direct fit?? If a bracket hole or something is different for a muffler hanger or something, not worried. 2. Both dust boots on I think the tie rods are ripped. It's right where I think it enters the rack. What options do I have replacing these? Can I just put replacement boots in? Does there need to be grease in there like a CV boot holds? Steering feels a little heavy (compared to the Saab, but unsure if it's a normal thing or not?) What's the best way to tackle these? 3. Engine tick. Definitely more noticeable on the passenger side, but both sides make it. I thought it might be a lifter tick, but after more searching not sure. The seller had a 2010 Legacy with 2.2L, had him start his, and the tick was VERY similar, but was much quieter. The 95' is more noticeable at idle. Quiets somewhat in gear/under load. Also, first starting it's quiet, after 20-30 sec it's noticeable. Definitely NOT injectors. NO CEL. Could it be a rocker? Are the lifters hydraulic? Piston slap? Doesn't have a "deep" in the block sound, but a lighter sound (dunno if it'd even develop a "deep" sound considering the orientation of the heads). Maybe oil pump failing? Do these typically sludge up in the head? 4. Valve cover gasket needs replaced, will do both sides, but if I need to adjust rockers or something else, gonna hold off until "3." is addressed. Anything to look at with it off? Rockers need torqued? If so, how much? Any special procedure? 5. Fuel pump and filter.... did I say how much I LOVE how inexpensive parts are for this car? Is the pump in-tank? Are there "tricks" to get it out w/o dropping the tank? Where is the fuel filter? 6. Will do a new timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, etc. soon. Is the oil pump under the cover? How long can they typically go? 7. What fluid does the auto take? I'd like to run a synthetic if possible. Is there a drain for the torque converter? The fluid doesn't smell like a US auto (either clean or burnt smell) so I can't tell if it's burnt or not? 8. Rear differential cover has signs of crud build up meaning it probably needs fresh fluid and a new gasket. What fluid works great in these? 9. Been reading the 2.2L ej22 is a desirable engine, why? I appreciate all the potential help anyone is willing to put forth to help get this car 100% winter road ready and hopefully nice Fall weather ready to give the car some time to run before the weather turns bad. Wanna start fixing everything ASAP so please don't be afraid to pipe up, even if it's just for one topic. I know new guys often get ignored in bigger forums, just hoping this doesn't happen here...