potter2010
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Everything posted by potter2010
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It may have been low from my wife trying to start. I know she had tried a few times, maybe two maybe ten. We haven't had any issue since I swapped the sensor so it looks like that may have been the issue. It'd be nice if Subaru had given another few centimetres on the wires or I had smaller hands but I finally got it unclipped. There was some oily dirt/grime around it so I'm wondering if that fouled it up or maybe it just had enough. Thanks again. -
Yea, I may not have gone that big but came with the car. It sure does start in -30c though. I was wondering about the flooding but I'll pass this onto the wife if it happens again. Thanks! Here's hoping it's the same. Edit: Figured out how to get the drivebelt off. Spring loaded tensioners are awesome!
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The 12.3v was the car sitting for 2-3 hours. The battery came with the car when we bought it and not marked when it was bought so I'm not too sure how old it is. I'll have to keep an eye on it though. Thank you!
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I shall follow the advice of all here as everyone is agreed. I'm glad the CEL went on while I was around or I'd be scratching my head. Since the battery seems to be fine I would have been looking something fuel related. There's some good sensors on RockAuto but due to the random nature of the no start I'm going to get one through NAPPA so it's here Monday instead of next week. Hopefully it's decent. Thanks everyone for the advice and confirmation!!!
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I may have figured out the lights, apparently your dash can go crazy if the gas cap needs replacing or maybe didn't go on right: I'll have to try this one out. Update: I went out and reseated the gas cap the turned the car on. The light show was gone as well as the CEL. I checked with my code reader and the crankshaft sensor code was still stored but the light was off. Tired the car a couple more times, all good. We'll see if it throws a code again or won't start. Anyone heard of a loose gas cap causing it to throw the crankshaft sensor error?
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Update: I biked down to the car. First I checked the voltage on the battery, 12.3v so that's good. My load metre doesn't go up high enough so I couldn't test that. I started up the car and away it went; HOWEVER, the CEL came on. I checked the code and 'P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit'. I looked up the code specific to Subaru and it reads 'Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction'. As that was one of the things on my list above I'm going to guess that's the problem. Odd thing though, this may be part of the error but the 'Cruise' indicator kept flashing (cruise control could not be turned on or off), the emergency brake light kept flashing (regardless of the brake being on or not), the Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC) warning light stays on (had to look the name of that one up and pressing the button for it did nothing), and pressing the Hill Start Assist/Holder button doesn't activate the function but the car beeps each time you press the button. The Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) warning light was on but our summer tires don't have sensors so that's expected to be on, though who knows maybe it'd be on anyway with the rest of them. The CEL light was obviously on too. I'm going to search around the forum about how to fix the code but any suggestions on the lights would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Hello, I'm already working on an odd noise coming from the driver's wheel well but new surprise! The car is a 2010 Outback that we bought used a little over a year ago. 132,000/212,000km on it. Timing belt replaced at 100,000km (potentially miles though as the car is American). The valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, and spark plugs were replaced this past fall/winter. I did the passengar side but ended up having to take it to the mechanic for the drivers side. I'm assuming they did a decent job. I didn't replace the spark plug wires as I had planned on since the coil is on the wire making them crazy expensive. No starting/running issues since or before. I do have a trickle charger on the battery for the winter (1.5 amp) but it hasn't been plugged in for several weeks. The battery itself is pretty powerful, 1000 CA if I remember correctly. This has happened twice in the last week. The car starts fine from cold, drive it a short distance of maybe 5-10 minutes, go a short errand and car cranks but no start. The first time it happened I thought weird but it started on the second go a couple minutes later. No CEL but I didn't check with my code reader. Today it left my wife and son stranded at the daycare. They ended up catching a ride as it wouldn't start at all. I'll be walking/biking to pick it up in a little bit. I have been Googling and searching this forum. There seems to be a variety of potential causes ('*' ones seem most probably): Battery Coil/Spark Plug Wires Loose Battery Wires/Corroded Terminals Spark Plugs Fuel Filter Ignition Module* Fuse* ECT sensor* Crank Position Sensor* Cam Position Sensor ECU Fuel Pump Coolant Temp Sensor As I haven't been to pick it up I can't say about the really easy things to check but I was wondering if anyone knows of issues specific to the 2010 or that generation of Subarus that might explain what's happening? As it's only been twice I can't really narrow anything down but as it left the wife and kid stranded I'm a bit nervous. Edit: Just thought of this. We rarely drive far but over the past week we put about 2,000km on the car with two trips. If that makes a difference. Thanks in advance!
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Update! After being out of town then back and then out of town again then back then dealing with a burst pipe I can start thinking about the car again. Axle and control arm replaced, still clicking/popping/clunking. I think lighter than before, doesn't seem as violent but still there. I notice it most on accelerating or decelerating with no noise while cruising. Someone mentioned that it might be a sway bar or some component thereof. Before I toss any more money and time after this any thoughts as that being the culprit?
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Hmmm, I'll have to keep that in mind. I'm sure the other side isn't far behind. I think I had checked there and was cheaper than NAPPA for Subaru parts but still fairly pricey. I'll have to check again though. Thanks!
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Yea, I wasn't too big on them but it was going to be $650-$750 CAD for a Subaru one so took a gamble. If I was in the US there seemed to be better deals, the shipping and duty are killer up to Canada and Rock Auto only had two options. Locally NAPPA or Kal-Tire couldn't get anything but brand spanking new axles. If I was closer to a dealer I may have had better luck. I had a chuckle and the dead horse. With the boot split I assumed the noise was from the CV joint. It was fine last fall when I put the winter tires on but that was six months ago so who knows how long sand and stones were getting in there. Maybe I could have gotten away with just a new boot but it would have had to have been replaced anyway I'm thinking. It does seem a bit different the more I drove it, somewhat better. Since they did the work I took it back in case, as you said, something wasn't tightened enough. I figured that was a possibility. After driving around I noticed it was more when stopping but still some on turns and not as much on bumps. Possibly a control arm maybe. They took it apart and said it was a control arm bushing that had worn down. Hopefully that's it. I haven't had one of those wear down before. It's odd both happened on one side when the other side seems fine. I guess the split boot partially explains that but I guess I should keep an eye out for the other sides control arm I guess.
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I believe the $750 was an actual Subaru part, explains the cost. We were away for a few days and away next week so I ended up breaking down and have a shop do it. $375 for off brand part and labour. Thanks for sending that along. The price isn't bad but shipping and duty is the killer. Rolled the dice with an off brand one from a local shop. An update: Picked up the car today with the new axle and it's popping/clicking just as bad or worse than before. Think I got a bad part or maybe it's something else? Previously it was making noise on corners and going over a bump. Now it only seems to make noise on corners but more often. I don't think it's the other side but hard to tell from the drivers seat. The boot on the other side looks good though. I'm going to give them a call and see if they have any suggestions.
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Saskatchewan, Canada. The land of no hills. It seems relatively straight forward but there seemed to be cautions about damaging seals and whatnot that made me a bit iffy as it'd be out of commission while I waited for parts. If we had a second vehicle I'd certainly give her a go. I was wondering about only changing the one side as the other seems fine right now. Everywhere says to change both sides but doesn't really say why. RockAuto doesn't seems to have much selection so I stopped by NAPPA today and they could get the axles in at $750 each! Granted they were new and couldn't get refurbs but still, pricey! At that price plus potentially labour the thought of doing one side is attractive. Any real reason why they say to do both beyond the other side potentially going soon? Couldn't I just keep an eye on it as you say and keep an ear out for clicking? Thanks for everyone's replies!
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Thanks for the advice. Axles it is then. I'll have to look into Subaru ones, hopefully they can get them in as it seem that aftermarket are not the best. Should I do both sides on the front or just the dying one? The car has about 130,000 miles on it.
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Hello, Just a quick question. My wife mentioned that there was some clicking noise when turning corners and on occasion when going over a bump. I took a look at the cv joints and the front driver outer boot is split. From my repair manual and online if replacement goes well it's easy but issues can easily arise. Since this is our only vehicle I'm thinking I'm going to get a local shop to do it to minimise downtime just in case I damage something accidentally. To my main question, most places say just replace the whole axle (and the other side too) for the cost but then I keep reading that the aftermarket axles are junk. Should I have just the worn CV joint replaced, replace both front outer CV joints, or replace both front axles? If I can't get my hands on Subaru parts, any aftermarket brands to go with or stay away from? Thanks!
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Room ably a bit of a silly question but where are the engine mount bolts on a 2010 2.5 Outback? I've been looking in my Hayes, Googling, and searching on here. I've come across a couple pictures and lots of 'undo to bolts' but not where they are or how to get to them. I'm in the middle of replace the value cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals so any help would be much appreciated! (Pictures would be awesome ) thank you!
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I spent a few years in northern Manitoba where temperatures reach -50c for week or months on end. I probably went a little overboard but I had a block heater, battery warmer, trickle charger, heating pad on the oil pan, and a Little Buddy interior car warmer. I had thought about tossing a heating pad on the tranny pan as well but never got around to it. That thing started like it was the middle of the summer. If you don't want to go that far I'd say a battery warmer and oil pan heater as a minimum as they are easy to install and will make a big difference for the cost and time necessary though you need to be plugged in somwhere. A block heater is good too but takes a bit more work, though if you can change the oil you can probably do that too, again needs ot be plugged in. If the car is sitting for periods of time, near an outlet, the trickle charger will keep you going without any worries. The interior car warmer is a bit more of a luxury but keep frost off the interior and makes initial driving more enjoyable. You will have to drill a 1/2" hole through the bottom of your car though or through the firewall. If you're not near an electricial hookup the above won't help much so I would go with a battery powered jump starter and just hope that your battery doesn't freeze!
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I came across the gasket set on RockAuto but without the grommets. Can't seem to find them online, that or the spark plug wires for a 2010 Outback. One of the shops around should be able to though even if it costs more at least I can get them.
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I replaced one on my 2001 a few years ago, was about $50 Canadian.
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Thanks for the advice. NGK and Fel-Pro it is!
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That's good hear that I wouldn't look down to see a trail of something streaming down the driveway! I'll have to go into a shop and place an order as I can't find most of the stuff online (at least available to Canada). I'll make sure to ask for NGK with regards to the wires. Any brands better than others for the gaskets/seals?
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With jacking up the engine, do you need to disconnect any wire/hoses/etc? From the sounds of it the engine doesn't have to go up too far but wouldn't want to snap something. I'm having a terrible time finding spark plug wires for a 2010 Outback as well as grommets for the valve cover, had luck with the gasket and tube seals though. Any suggestions on websites to get them from? I typically order from RockAuto but open to others. I like NGK for the wires but they don't appear to make any for the 2010 Outback unless I'm reading the website wrong. Any suggestions on good brands for the gaskets/seals and wires?
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The one I pulled was in good condition on the sparking end but if it makes it that much easier like you say, might as well. I'm not sure when the previous owner replaced them. How about spark plug wires? Worth replacing since they have been sitting in oil for who knows how long or probably okay?
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You're scaring me here! I'm slowy learning the ways of the driveway mechanic but I'm a bit cautious about lifting up the engine on my own. What kind of skill level would you place this at? I change spark plugs, oil, filters, brake pads, that kind of stuff. On the last car I did the seals and gaskets when I found oil in the wells but they were really easy to get at in the 2001 Legacy and that's probably the most difficult thing I've done. I haven't had to tackle anything that involved unbolting the engine and lifting it up. A big high five to everyone that calmed my fears about there having been too much oil in the past. Coincidently what would be a big ol' sign that you put way too much oil in?
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Hello, me again. I was out doing some winter readying on our 2010 Outback (128,000 miles / 206,000 km). Since we just got it this year I wanted to check the spark plugs to see if I needed to change them before the winter. Open them up and oil in the wells. Alright need to change the seals, going to be a big pain in the butt but can likely do it myself. I had to do it on a 2001 Legacy before so I have the general idea. I think it leaked because there was too much oil. I had checked the oil level after getting it and it was a little high but didn't see any issues otherwise, though there has been a possible few drops on the driveway and when I was under it today to change the oil, the filter was pretty oily. I've been searching the forum for the past bit and see some varying and in a couple instances conflicting advice. That leads me to three questions: 1) How much of a pain is it to change the spark plug tube seals on a 2010 Outback? Any advice? 2) Is there anything else I should change while I'm changing the spark plug tube seals? 3) What else should I check for possible damage from too much oil? This would have been driving for several months. Thank you in advance everyone. I hope nothing is royally screwed up on it!
