Ross

Nah,, i don't have the factory manual, but i do have a haynes manual that has quite a few wiring diagrams for different models in the same year. Unfortunately, i think its in my girlfrnds car, and she's at work for another 6 hours. Ill post then.

ahhhhhh.... no.

Definitely the way to go - especially if you want more power out of your engine.

they sure are - swap your alternator for one with an internal regulator - all you need to do then is bridge a couple of connections on the plug that used to go to the ext. regulator. As for the wires, I will have a look at my diagrams at home in a few hours and get back.

I agree - i also do not like using junkyard parts, but untill you are absolutely sure you know what the problem is it would be best to try second hand parts first. Then if it fixes the problem you can get a new one.

Checked the cam shaft - its a hydraulic lifter one. Will this cause any probs with the solid lifters?

I thought the ea81ts were set to 15 deg??

They may have, but judging by the standard of work that seems to have been performed on the engine previously (rather poor), i doubt it. I will certainly check when i get my hands on a micrometer. Is the different cam profile used because it has hydraulic lifters or because of the larger valves?

My ea81t has had solid lifter put in place of the hydraulic ones (the rest of the valve train for the hydraulic lifters is still there). Checked out dealer price - NZ$513 (US$375) for the set! If thats the cheapest they come, i can see why they were replaced with solid ones. Anyone know if there are any aftermarket units available for the ea81? Saw a listing for ea82 ones, but none for the ea81.... Cheers.

Yes its possible to put an ea82t in it. You may have to do some frame chopping in the front??? Whats your mate doing with the ea81t?

Yeah, the valves on the ea81 must be adjusted cold.

I don't think you would have described a rod knock as a "glang", it is a most definite knock or clonk, so i don't think that is your problem. Sounds like something to do with exhaust.

We got the Brat/Brumby untill '94 in New Zealand, i'd say Austrailia was the same.

Well, if your lazy, you could just wrap the offending loose bits in insulation tape. If you want to fix it properly, then id go with your idea of puting some kind of packing in there.

Insulation tape!!

Well, compared to some of your experiences, my dealer isn't that bad. They may not know what they are talking about, but they generally try to do their best to find the part your looking for. I have also been pleasently suprised with cheap prices on many items lately - except for the set of hydraulic lifters for NZ$513 (US$370)!

There is no fuse there. You should check all connections to the coil and distributor before anything else. If your engine has a crank angle sensor, then it needs it to run - and the crank angle sensor is not directly connected to the coil. THe angle sensor gives the computer the crank position, and the computer tells the coil to fire. Have you checked for error codes? That would be the next thing i'd do.

ehh, the hub shouldn't be an interfearance fit on the shaft, don't you mean the shaft through the knuckle/bearings? I suspect thats what he was asking anyway, i can't see why the hub would not go on. (we're talking fronts here, yes?)

Yeah, try telling them you want a part for an ea81 turbo.... "That must be aftermarket" or "ea81s only came with carbs...". Then once you've convinced them that the engine exists, they tell you tyhe part doesn't exist anyway!!

Yah, spring steel, no idea what aisi number though.

I have a 1600dl 79 wagon, and used to have a 1400 dl (76 i think) sedan. What do you want to know?

yep, two identical bearings on each side, plus an inner and outer seal.

Seems rather odd but.... Some things point to the culprit being the front main seal. For one thing, there are bits of churned up seal all through the sump (oil pan). On close examination of the drive gear, it does look if something has been dragged 'through' it. So, im thinking that 'somehow' the front crank seal was pushed bachwards untill it contacted the disty drive gear. Then at some stage it got caught up and torn to pieces and deposited in the sump. (someone then replaced teh seal, and didn't wonder where the other one was???) All seems very unlikely, but why else would it look like that, and why else would there be chunks of rubber seal in the sump? Anyone think this is feasable?

Get an ea81 style vehicle - theres a handy spot around the 4wd select lever where a cup fits nicely, especially paper takeaway cups!

Could be a weak ignition coil, when they start to go they will often produce symptoms like that.