stackman1

Ok - looks like I did it. With any luck FairTax et all - still out there. I am about to take my annual trip to Florida for July (don't ask). To save you guys from reading the whole thread - 2 years ago the dealer told me the compressor was shot but through this board and its members I have been able to make the drive in comfort for two years running. Each June I have to work on it - likely due to leaks but have done quite a bit. I'll digress more later. It is in low 70's in NY. While the a/c cools now - not sure how it will operate in South Florida over the next six weeks. Yesterday after driving about 20 minutes with a/c on - I decided to video the a/c compressor. Can you guys tell me if that kind of cycling - in this kind of weather makes sense? Does clutch look right? More questions later - just quick opinion on the look of the a/c compressor operation. Thanks Peter

I hope this link will work. I uploaded to youtube http://www.youtube.com/embed/rfHUDUuFFUY?rel=0

By the temperature bulb - I assume you mean the thermometer currently inserted into the evap core?

Tex - you were right. I had to push it. Of course it still took me a couple of days to separate the brown harnesses Is there any point to trying to test the thermister harness (black) for resistance or anything. I'm still going to buy an OEM thermister and expansion valve from the dealer. I'm no electrical wiz but do have a multimeter. Just curious if it would verify anything?

I can't budge that orange connector. It won't slide out.

The thermistor is actually in the lower left quadrant of my evap core. Core looks just like a mini-condenser. I re-inserted the plastic holder thermistor anchor in the empty fin with the sensor pointing up......again I should have taken a photo because maybe it was originally pointing down

Getting to the evap core was a pain but I really wanted to see the entire circuit of the a/c system. When I finally got it out for cleaning I should have taken some photos but my hands were greasy. Unfortunately, I find my curiosity makes me rush to see the next thing. I should take before photos - because I always get hung up putting stuff back. An example was re-installing the spacer in the firewall. In the earlier photos - where I was trying to figure out how to disconnect the expansion valve (even though I had done it years before!). The rectangular opening in the firewall has a substantial rubber holder (gasket) that allows the metal spacer to sit on. The spacer - is what sits between the engine and the expansion valve - that serves as an anchor. When putting everything back - I couldn't figure out how best to position it. Finally got everything connected but I used to be able to hold a complete vacuum but this last time not quite. Anyway, the biggest gripe I have is the plastic, One gets frustrated and tempted to force things even though - you know it is the worst thing to do. Here is what I am getting at. I will buy the OEM parts - Thermister, Expansion Valve - figure out the o-rings and redo the whole thing......but what I thought I would do in the interim is understand more about the thermister. I can kick myself for not taking photos. If you visualize a blue plastic thermometer - narrow and about a half inch long attached to a piece of plastic - which gets inserted into a missing fin on the lower right quadrant of the evap core - that is the thermister. It has a thin insulated wire that enters 'behind' the harness in the picture. I can't see it but I assume the harness we can see receives a tiny harness from the thermister. I wanted to slide it out and disconnect because maybe I can do some testing on circuit but even if I can't test it - I'll need to be able to disconnect it when I put in the new thermister! But I can't figure out how to slide/pull/push or otherwise get it loose - I just know I am going to break this thing!!!

I was running the car on max cool for only about 5-8 minutes in 60 degree weather. Would the compressor not shutting off, in that limited amount of time, cause the white ice on the lines like it did? By the way - thanks for that great link and associated diagram. Think I should pay up for the Subaru Expansion Valve? I'm willing - if you think it makes sense. $90 vs $20.....

Well - Just got off the phone with the local Subaru Dealer. They would have to order it. It is called a "thermistor". It is $75 - less than I thought they would charge. If I bite the bullet and order it would you suggest paying the $89 for the Subaru Expansion Valve or just using Rock Auto again for $17? Anything else I should get if I move forward? Thanks FairTax

I assume by the thermal switch you mean the sensor with a wire that is inserted into the fins of the evap core? If I recall Subaru wants some absurd price....I was stupid. I should have replaced the expansion valve when I had the damn thing disassembled. Last time I used an after market Expansion Valve from RockAuto - Subaru wanted $90 - Rockauto charged me $18. It seemed to work fine. I should have ordered another one before I re-charged and put it in.

No

It would appear that the expansion valve is likely operating - since I understand it is the part that makes the refrigerant turn cold? Is the evap core maybe not receiving the refrigerant - might that explain the frosted pipes? Tex - When I had system evacuated I looked at the o-rings on the compressor - low and high - they seemed ok. Would that explain the frosted lines? Any thoughts appreciated.

Now - not completely surprised it didn't hold a great vacuum because frankly I was pretty aggressive over the weekend. I got to the Evap Core because I felt that maybe it could tell me more about the both the dripping in the footwell as well as the reduced airflow after running the a/c for awhile. I had it in my mind that the evap core was freezing up. So I essentially dismantled everything a/c related from the firewall in the cabin. I disconnected the evap core. It had crud on lower inch. Checked thermo-sensor for any visible damage. Didn't see any. I didn't change the expansion valve which I should have but had my fingers crossed. Putting everything back was a bitch. Got the evap core back in after cleaning - tried not to crush thermo-sensor? Then reconnected the evap core lines to the old Expansion Valve and then tightened the expansion valve by tightening the hex and bolt on the spacer from engine side of firewall. So like I said it was really cold and then I popped the hood.

Well.....I bought 19oz of R134a. Put my vacuum on for 45 minutes and got a solid vacuum. However when I turned the vacuum off and had gauge valves close. It didn't hold the 29hg mercury like it has in the past. Probably dropped to 15hg. Anyway. I decided to vac it again and then quickly recharged hoping that there might be sealant in the refrigerant. Drove it around and it was freezing. But after about 5 minutes..... not so much. Popped the hood and look at the white-out on my pipes!

Wow - that got a laugh this morning. Unfortunately - appropriate to your handle - since I own an old home near the beach - I have to move out during the summer months to just cover the property taxes! Thanks for the input on the car as usual...I kind of felt that was the right thing to do. Any thoughts on adding Pag OIl - I see people talk about. If so, where would I add it and how much? Thanks man.

Well...after moving the air filter out of the way - I could see I needed to unscrew the hex nuts on the engine side in order to free the expansion valve inside. Don't remember doing any of that before. I am getting old. So I kept going and with some scraped knuckles got managed to pull th evap core out. The thermo sensor was inserted into the lower driver side corner of the fins. It looked ok. But there was a fair amount of crushed leaves on the the bottom inch of the the evap core. So I vacuumed and then hosed it a bit. Cleaned out the evap core holder and reinserted it. Putting expansion valve back into position was a bitch because I forgot about the positioning of the rubber gasket holder in the fire wall and lining everything up was hard with one guy. But I reconnected everything . Who knows if I caused more problems doing this or not. Didn't have Pag Oil to lubricate the o-rings but things looked ok? So I spent a day basically just to get some crud off the bottom of my evap core. Hopefully cleaning the evap core will stop my dripping/icing.....not absolutely sure it is icing but sure as hell was dripping. Drain hose from base of evap through firewall - totally clean. So since the winter is coming here in NY and the system is empty of R134 what should I do? Will it hurt the system to go through the winter without R134. Will it dry out rings? Should I put a vac on it and get rid of moisture? Add Pag Oil - if so where? I am counting on a/c next summer again for Florida - try to keep my 14 yo Subie cool. Any thoughts welcome.

I decided to see if I could get to the thermo sensor on the evap core. I got to where I could see it. So I disconnected the lines through the firewall that attached to one side of the expansion valve (system had been evacuated). But can't seem to figure out how to disconnect expansion valve. I had actually replaced this expansion valve a couple of years ago but my memory is bad. Here is my question: Having disconnected the lines through the firewall shouldn't I be able to pull the expansion valve and attached lines away from the firewall? It won't budge. Even if I could reach those two nuts/bolts between the lines - I don't know what tool to use on them.....they are tiny threaded bolts - not hex bolts. Jeez Ideas?

I had the a/c on today and it wasn't very cold but I ran it and then checked the passenger foot well for dripping. It is actually leaking along the bottom of the plastic seal on white evaporator cover.

Good suggestions about tightening the hose connection. So based on the fact that when I run the a/c for a longer period and the airflow diminishes - is the only likely explanation that - the core is freezing? Assuming that is the case. Do you know if I can get at the evaporator core and replace the thermal sensor? Ever heard anyone doing it without totally dismantling the dashboard? Thanks for your feedback.

Seems like the blower keeps pushing air through the vents when a/c isn't on....... And from what I can tell, the dripping on the passenger foot well emanates from where the black drain hose is attached to the what I assume must be the evaporator (the same black hose that runs through the firewall that I blew out). It begins just under (but not to) the large white plastic cover the hides the expansion valve. Should I pull off black hose and see if crud comes out? Also, am I correct in assuming that if the evaporator did ice over - the air flow would be diminished - even at the same blower speed?

You mean - see if the vent stops pushing air after awhile - without turning the a/c on?

Bingo! They never put a filter in......of course this is the first time I went to replace it but still!!!! The blower is running fine and sucking in outside air (no filter) so the problem lays between the blower and the dash vents. But if it runs fine initially and then quits blowing hard - is it an icing issue in the evaporator? I actually changed the expansion valve myself two years ago. But don't remember much about it. Something I can tackle?

Yes - I just found this Youtube: And I remember seeing that while plastic rectangle a couple of years ago when I replaced the a/c expansion valve. My guess it is disgusting - hopefully it exists.....lost of posters say theirs were missing.

Does my '02 have a 'cabin' air filter.....saw video for a late model sube that showed it behind the glove box. Do i have one? The Haynes manual doesn't reference it???

Got through the heat of a Florida summer thanks to the good people of this board - FairTax especially. Recently used compressed air on drain tube and also used a shop vac the reverse way to fix severe dripping issue - my latest a/c issue. Hard to tell if that is fixed yet - think it might be.....but who knows. But incredibly happy I got through the summer. Hard to believe about 5 years ago my dealer told me a needed a new a/c compressor!!! Aside from rust on the undercarriage - it is driving well for a car that just turned 14. Just put tires, exhaust and alternator on - so hopefully I'll get another couple of years..... Anyway - here is the latest question for the board. Lately I have noticed that I often have about three inches of fog at base of windshield. And while the the a/c blows cold and strong initially, it remains cold - but then it seems as if the blower motor stops - because hardly any air gets pushed through the vents - even at top setting. I can hear the fan working so don't believe it is blower motor - just not pushing the air. Thoughts? Thanks Peter