stackman1

Just thought I would update the thread. I never found the receiver/dryer. My Impreza simply doesn't have one - from what I can see! Anyway since the dealer last year told me my compressor was shot and a new one would cost me $920 installed. I began researching the web. I figured why not invest some money and try to fix my a/c myself. I couldn't understand why I should replace the compressor since I could see the clutch engaging. So I bought a Robinair Vacuum pump for ~ $80 and a Mountain manifold Gauge set for about $60. Bought an expansion valve from Rockauto for $15. And as GrossGary suggested I brought my two compressor o-rings in to Napa for a match for $1.30 (those looked ok though). Replaced the expansion valve because I thought I had icing issues. My car would blow coolish for 5 minutes then blow warm. Replacing the expansion value was a bit of a pain but I followed these awesome instructions - see link - photos were great. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/general-maintenance-troubleshooting-accidents/141059-its-getting-very-warm-outside-need-c-help.html Then I put the vacuum on for about 40 minutes pulled 28-29 inches of mercury. Then let it sit another 40 minutes and it still held the vacuum. Figured no leaks. So I charged the system. The first can (12 oz) took a while to load. The second 12 oz - I only wanted to load about 5 oz because my car states 16-19oz.....but the refrigerant was sucked out fast. Can was empty before I really had a chance to monitor. Wondered if I got only a 1/3 can - but it felt like it had the same weight as the first one. Anyway, it ran cool and didn't stop after 5 minutes - my thermometer says 50 degrees. Today it was probably 75 in NY and I was completely comfortable - again about 50 degrees. Not sure if it will last or perform in the 90's but I gave it my best shot. I am going to Florida for the summer so I have my fingers crossed. So I spent $200 and maybe did something that will get me through the summer and learned a little bit. If it will cool at 50 degrees in 95 degree heat I will be very happy. Was the dealer tech just lying to me - seems pretty clear the compressor is working at least somewhat? If anyone has some ideas about the perfect pressures on the low and high sides please chime in. Would be nice to know if I have the right amount of refrigerant. Still really perplexed about the missing receiver/dryer. I have a 2002 Impreza OBS which I bought in August of 2001 - transition car? Dunno - if anyone ever comes across this and can give me some info that would be great. Thanks Everyone Peter

The purpose of that black cylinder is what? Do you think that was just a poorly designed transitional receiver/dryer? Should I just rule out the receiver/dryer being in the dash with the evaporator and expansion valve? Maybe this thing just doesn't have a standard setup. Hopefully o-rings and a good vacuuming will do the trick. Thanks for helping out. Pete

Got the plastic grill off. Hard to get good pics and I am still at a loss as to where the hell the receiver/drier is. Unless it is behind the dash with the evaporator? Here is a pic from the front: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvb7kihfuzsu1v7/cond.jpg Here is a pic from an angle. https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8ga92ki1bnx7wi/angle.jpg Here is a close up of the black cylinders' base and where it connects to the flaking silver 'end-tank'......that is what you called the flaking cylinder I believe? There are no inlet/outlet pipes going into the top or bottom of the black cylinder; just this welded port into the end-tank: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rnjb1ivdidpuz8t/Base.jpg My Label: https://www.dropbox.com/s/960janzh5zckm3w/Labe3.jpg

I was able to push the tabs down and the plastic grill wants to come off but seems to be held on the bottom somehow. I don't see any screws. I really want to get a better look at my condenser and find my missing drier....Anybody know what I need to do after releasing the four tabs????

What you say makes sense about it being a welded end-tank and not a drier. So where is the stupid drier ) Look at the two pics. It appears all I have to get part of grille off is to work those 4 tabs? I have a terrible habit of breaking stuff do I use a screwdriver to push the 'tab' in the hole down. It is pretty plastic - afraid of using too much force but is that the technique? Once it is off I will gladly send you a pic of what a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport purchased in August of 2001 looks like...... https://www.dropbox.com/s/0x9aoyepkzaeqgw/front%20end.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/9alrx42tt3sy3kx/Tab.jpg

If I could figure out how to get the front off I would take a pic. Maybe I will try and take a photo from the back and above; its tough with the radiotor. If you click on the pic above you can see the cylinder (receiver/dryer) is external to the condenser but unlike the recent models - the top nor the bottom of the cylinder have ports for to accept piping (the pic was taken from the front - my drier is on the passenger side of the condenser). My High and low pressure pipes leave and enter from the driver side of the condenser - closer to the compressor. From what I can tell every couple of inches there are welded openings between the drier and condenser but it is all one piece. It sounds like I got the model condenser right before the driers became replaceable. Is it easy to get at the front of the condenser? I would like to do it for myself.....

Is there a good off the shelf liquid/spray for cleaning fittings/bolts/nuts etc before putting a wrench to them? Some of my parts are pretty crusted....

Think I will just replace the compressor o-rings, buy a vacuum pump and evacuate, recharge (maybe with some dye) and hope for the best. I do have a pretty strong feeling that a big part of my problem is moisture; think I am getting icing.I don't suppose the vacuum pump would do anything to fix a saturated receiver/dryer? Also, can you see the dye should it leak or do you really need an IV light?

Fair Tax - I got a better look at it this morning. My 2002 has the drier cylinder integrated into the condenser. It is external but it is part of the condenser - can't be removed - would have to replace the entire condenser. This pic shows the bottom of the cylinder - there are no lines in and out their are welded ports into the condenser every few inches up the cylinder. https://www.dropbox.com/s/13nu62yxey5j39r/2014-05-15%2009.40.20.jpg

I have had trouble locating the receiver/dryer. I'm not the only one from the 2001-2 period apparently....... There is a silver cylinder running the full length of the right side of my condenser. It is about 1.5" in diameter. I am hoping this is it - might take pic in morning. I read that in the 2001-2002 time period Subaru moved the receiver/dryer from inside of the condenser to the outside. I bought my 2002 in August of 2001 - go figure. It seems like a pretty lengthy tube....unlike the more squat soda cans types. I would replace it if that is in fact it..

In the thread I posted the guy bought his new expansion valve at a dealership. He said he got a discount and it cost $85 - I went on partsgeek.com and here are the ones listed for my 2002 Impreza sport. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2002/subaru/impreza/climate_control/a-fs-c_expansion_valve.html Is it unwise to use aftermarket parts? I am willing to pay up if that is the consensus. But they are only selling for $15 online....... I'm kind of asking also because I need to replace my two drive belts, air filter etc......do you guys stay away from dealer parts or use them?

Did a little more digging and ran across this thread. It is for a WRX but same model year as mine. This guy had stop and go a/c problems and determined it was the expansion valve (which I assume is the same thing as the orifice tube). My pic was not the expansion valve - it is behind the dash. Worth a look. He took lots of pics and explains how to get at it via the glove box with great pics....just thought I would share: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/general-maintenance-troubleshooting-accidents/141059-its-getting-very-warm-outside-need-c-help.html

Thanks Gary. My 2002 OBS takes 16-19 oz per the cross support. Will pick up the o-rings at Napa. Been reading a lot of threads from different websites, videos etc. Then going to my car and cross checking what I have. I have two questions, keep in mind I have a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport: I don't see the receiver/drier. I have a Haynes manual 2000-2006 for the Legacy/Forester series - they show it in the Engine area. Is it in the dash with the Evaporator or am I just losing it - I don't see it in the engine area? Is this the Orifice Valve (see link) - It doesn't look like the expansion valve others point to..... https://www.dropbox.com/s/tti2y47roziiotl/Orifice%20Valve.jpg

FairTax - I saw your discussion with Gary about the o-rings - where did you end up buying yours - Napa?

Thanks rooster. That's what I'll do. Let you know.....

Ok. So my gauges arrived yesterday. I hooked them up but before I turned the car on the Low Side read ~65psi; High Side ~ 65psi. Then I turned on car and ran the a/c. The High Side briefly spiked to 100psi but then settled back at 60 psi after 5 minutes or so. However, the low side went from 65psi to negative 30psi! It isn't hot here on Long Island, I was probably doing this when it was about 70 degrees. I'm not too mechanical but have done lots of reading and seen diagrams and videos, so I think I understand basically how the system works. It would be appreciated if someone could tell me if I'm think about this correctly. When I hooked up the gauges - but before I turned the car on - the gauges showed readings of ~ 65psi. Does that mean the system has some refrigerant (I kind of know it does because the a/c blows cold briefly) but if it was empty wouldn't I see Zero PSI? After letting it run for 5 minutes and seeing a negative 30 psi - wouldn't that indicate the compressor was working at least in the sense it created a vacuum on the low side? The thing that troubles me is that the dealer claims they fully charged it but discovered the compressor was bad. The charge had no affect because when I picked it up that night - it still only gives 5 minutes of cool. The compressor appears to be engaged and spinning and sounds like it is working. I just want to make sure that it is truly the compressor. So would the next step be to top it off with refrigerant and use a dye to see where it might be leaking or is there a way to directly test the compressor?Thanks

I have a 2002 OBS and when I went to use the a/c last summer it only worked for first 5 minutes or so - took it to dealer and they charged but then told me the compressor was shot and I was looking at $1,000. So I decided it was time to start doing more or at least learning more. Got some good jack stands - changed my oil etc but since I am headed to Florida for the summer I need to figure this out. Can't pay that kind of money. Watched some videos and realized the first thing I need to do is buy a manifold gauge set. Should arrive this week. The system has a charge and the compressor clutch is engaged or at least spinning. But like I said it blows cold for the first few minutes only. It isn't real hot here yet on Long Island. When I turn on the a/c the vent thermometer takes it from 80 to 60 but then it fades back to 70 pretty quick. The high pressure line out of the compressor going into the condenser gets hot like I assume it should - at first - but after about 5 minutes it is just warm. The low pressure line going into the firewall is fairly cool but actually feels colder coming out???? Bad Evaporator? Then when I went under the car it appears like the boot on my axle arm is torn under the driver side and sprayed grease everywhere....beautiful. Don't know how much that will cost. And to top it off - when I was putting the guard back on top of my drive belts... the back plate(?) that takes the bolt that keeps my guard tight dropped into the engine area and can't find it. Black hole I guess. Great day - all in all.