stackman1

Just found another IAT Sensor for cheaper: Any reason to pay up? This one is $17. https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Impreza/Replacement/IAT_Sensor/2002/Outback/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/REPS315201.html

Thanks for the feedback guys. I will get it inspected somewhere locally (Long Island) but - Geesh - I assumed inspection thresholds were at the 'State' level. I'm technically not in the city but certainly within the 'metro' area. Not sure where I should draw the line money wise......I was not a big fan of the Gubmint' to begin with - this ain't helping. I was looking at Rockauto for the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (IAT/MAP) They had two: BECK/ARNLEY 1581348 - $47 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3764595&cc=1378751&jsn=672&jsn=672 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AS185 - $87 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=657018&cc=1378751&jsn=671

Hey Everyone This board has been key for me over the years - but I fear I face my most daunting challenge yet! I have left the beautiful regulation-free confines of Minnesota/Florida and will now reside permanently in NY. So almost 17 year after purchase - I face my First Inspection! I bought my 2002 Outback Sport in August 2001 and have been religious about changing fluids and all normal maintenance. Now I'll admit, my CEL has been on for ages, but have always done obvious repairs as they arise. So of course I ignored the CEL. I have 143,000 miles and if I had stayed in Florida I would have expected to drive it another 5 years minimum but this Spring I will have to get registered in NY. This is particularly true now - since I will only be driving locally and will likely put a couple of thousand miles per year going forward. Guess I am reverse snowbird. I purchased a nice Bluetooth Scanner from Lemur (Blue Driver OBD2) and not surprisingly I had quite a few codes. I will preface this to say I have replaced the catalytic converters and O2 Sensors more than once but knew I would be seeing the P0420 Code for sure. Well the scanner threw 8 Codes: • P0327: Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor • P1507: Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe) • P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected • P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 • P0171: System Too Lean Bank 1 • P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1 • P0065: Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance • P0130: O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 Yeah I know, lotsa codes.... So I cleared the codes once and the CEL came back on after about 50 miles (throwing the P0113 Code). I have to study up on the Scanner to better understand the 'reset stage' each Monitor is at - after clearing the codes. I understand there are like 8 Inspection Monitor Categories(?) and they take a while to recalibrate....just trying to get a handle on how big my task is going forward. Anyway, just I started my process. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated as usual..... Peter (Long Beach NY)

The first photo shows the bolt I removed that goes through the firewall spacer and out the expansion valve The second shows you the top of that bolt. The document refers to the head as a 4mm Alan Screw. But AdviceI used a 4mm hex bit - is that why I messed it up????? It is a different tool? Wonder if it it too stripped already? Advice? http://s736.photobucket.com/user/wacko10009/media/IMG_20170605_083753.jpg.html] [http://s736.photobucket.com/user/wacko10009/media/IMG_20170605_083803.jpg.html]

Have you ever replaced an expansion valve? It is a pain in the rump roast lining up everything from the engine side. So if my expansion valve/spacer connection is the issue and I am able to get everything more flush - I will pull a vacuum on it again. If it holds - the hell with the oily crimped hose. I'll just recharge it and try to get through the summer. But now it's the f##king stripped hex head that I have to figure out. Guess I'll see if my mechanic knows how to get the long second hex bolt out. The subaru parts are really expensive - buying a crimped charge hose is $$$.

Well I knew I had to do it so I went back in and dropped the blower motor and I feel more confident that my vacuum leak issue is between the the evaporator lines and the expansion valve. A parts diagram shows there are no o-rings between the two (I can't remember I mistakenly put them on) but you can see the evap lines are not flush with expansion valve - I am hoping just a bad tightening job. As I said earlier - the evap line/expansion valve/aluminum firewall spacer/low pressure line connection was a nightmare.. So working once more from the engine side, I removed the center bolt that goes into the spacer and the first long hex bolt that you can see protruding out of the evap line connector in the picture. But I f$$king stripped the hex head on the second 4mm Hex bolt and can't remove it! It is enough to make you crazy.......the hex head is below the surface so I can't use a pliers. http://s736.photobucket.com/user/wacko10009/media/short.jpg.html]

That hose line has forever been oily near the crimp. But it apparently wasn't bad enough to leak all the refrigerant in the past. So I'm thinking I should work up the energy to recheck all my work Ugh.....more brusied knuckles and cursing. That spacer in the firewall is a nightmare with the rubber holder and getting the expansion valve to line up with the hex bolts coming in from the firewall through the spacer is almost a two man job.

Hey Tex - Those compressor o-rings were the first thing that I changed.

Hey guys and gals - With the help of this board I have been able to make my summer trek to Florida (from NY) in a pretty cool car. Learned a lot about a/c along the way. (This after a dealership mechanic gave my a/c compressor the Last Rites about 8 years ago!) Lately I developed some freezing lines as well as a loss of cooling. Since I had some credits with Subaru that were about to expire I decide to invest in a new thermosensor and expansion valve. There was a known issue with the old thermosensor on my model. The new one actually gets inserted into the fins of the evaporator and also is now seated on the lower right. I had previously changed the expansion valve before and was prepared for battle. I got to eventually got the evaporator (after a fair amount of cursing) and switched the thermosensor and even repacked the evaporator with new insulation. I then tackled the expansion valve. Anyone that has done it, knows you need to loosen nuts and hex bolts on the engine side of the firewall. Got the lines disconnected from the spacer that sits in the firewall and took out the expansion valve from the inside. I also bought a new rubber gasket for the elliptical hole in the firewall that the spacer sits on. But It took me forever to get it back in the hole with the spacer and then reconnect the expansion valve. I replaced every o-ring - even those on the compressor. It was a bitch. Called it a day. This morning I put the vacuum pump on it and while my gauges show it draws down to -29hg while the pump is running....the minute I turn the vacuum pump off - the pressure goes to back zero. Clearly something is loose. I can't bring myself to attack this again - at least not today - I figured I'd step away and write to you mavens. But the idea of dropping the blower motor again, taking away the white plastic cover to expose the evaporator and expansion valve, mess with the spacer - sucks. In my bones I would guess it is likely an issue with the seal between the evaporator lines and the expansion valve or the expansion valve and spacer and the low pressure lines. The bowels of the a/c system I never want to see again. Must I go back in? If I recharge the system without a vacuum will it all be for naught and just never last very long? I need some advice. Leaving for Florida in a couple of weeks - will be a very hot trip if I don't resolve. Any suggestions very much appreciated. Peter

Good Point Dave. I must have been reading about automatic transmissions with regard to slipping.

I was planning on using conventional oil. I have 145,000 miles on it and from what I read the synthetic might be so good it could cause slipping?

I handle most of my fluid maintenance but am bringing my 2002 Impreza Outback Sport (MT) into my local mechanic and want to buy the proper manual transmission oil . My owners manual chart indicates I will need 3.7 qts of GL-5 85W for the manual transmission. For the rear differential a Haynes book for Legacy and Forester (2000-2006) suggests GL-5 75W-90 and .8 qts Questions: I understand I can use the same fluid for the MT and Rear Differential. Any brand recommendations for the oils? GL-5 85W for both? (If I can't find - just use GL-5 75W-90??? Thanks in Advance - Guys/Gals Pete

Tex - I'm quite sure it was my problem when I put the thermostat in. I didn't check the gasket. I suspect it was off track in places because when I unbolted the housing, the thermostat just fell in my catch pan. After I tested the thermostat and properly made sure the gasket was in the deep groove all around - it sat in the water pump housing without me having to hold it. Since re-seating the thermostat - no temp problems. Just this hose thing and that seems fixed now! Thanks

Well - I pulled the old hose off and it was the OEM - it wasn't three pieces it had a protective sleeve as suggested. I tried twisting it away on the radiator side but it was till too close to fan. The inlet end of hose was flush against the notch so I just put the new Napa hose on. Fit like a glove. No sleeve but not close to anything hot or spinning. Educational bit of maintenance for me. The one question that remains is - when I had the thermostat in wrong - and drove the 5 miles and instantly went red. Does that likely mean that the improperly seated thermostat allowed no coolant into engine block and the coolant in the block just started to boil? Or was there even coolant in the block? Here is my new nose:

Well I am the lone owner - 15 years and counting. Don't ever recall having a dealer or anyone else replace my radiator hose. But I agree it is strange. Looks like I can buy one from Napa for about about $17 bucks. Weird??? https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBG9128/NBG9128_0226480167

Just to close out and ask a final question: I did not seat my new thermostat properly into the bottom of water pump housing: So I got this after a mere 5 miles - I pulled it off and knew it wasn't seated well when it fell out. So for the hell of it I tested it before re-inserting: Opened fine at correct temps - not sure if you can see opening... No problem with cooling and temp - everything running great except: When I had to fill my block with coolant - I did the suggested thing and used the upper radiator hose. I tended to twist it so the opening was up. What I am now finding is my radiator hose (which appears to be a composite of three hoses - OEM - as far as I know) is now finding its way to the radiator fan blades. You can probably see the white chafing when I pull it away. it appears the twisting may have unstuck the adhesive(?) that bound the three piece hose together - making it longer - and thereby allowing it to gravitate and contact fan blade. Thoughts? I swung by my mechanics today but he was closed - I wanted to ask him his opinion about a logical fix and also for him to throw my car up on the racks and give me his opinion on how dangerous my rust situation is.....but he was closed Anybody wanna chime in?

Good News Boys - so far so good. Gauge not spiking. Worked on the bubbles. I'll know more after the weekend. Pete

Hey Tex - I did the thermostat test and it worked perfectly. I took the gasket off for the test though.... I do agree it is ok to reuse the gasket; doesn't look bad - just a bit rough. I am a bit of a perfectionist at times. I am going to install the thermostat and fill the engine core again through the upper hose. Once I do that I will need to burp it for air bubbles I guess. Any tips on that would be appreciated. I will leave on jack stands till done. Big thanks to you and FairTax - very educational. Pete

Ok........... I slowly unbolted the housing and thereby caught most of the fresh coolant before I even dropped it. No mess. When I finally unbolted it fully - the thermostat fell right out - it clearly wasn't seated properly. In all I retrieved a full gallon of coolant however I asssume some of that came from the lower radiator hose before I was able to bungee it. I washed the thermostat and removed the gasket. It was a bit worse for wear - being somewhat squished - but I was able to fully thread it around the base properly and now it will sit in the base of the water pump without holding on. Here are my questions: Is it a big mistake to just go with it or should I get a ride to the dealer tomorrow and get a new gasket- assuming they have one in stock for my '02 OBS? Also, I don't want to reuse the coolant that came out. When I performed my refill I used Prestone which was guaranteed for all Asian cars. But I have a nearly fully bottle of Peak Global Lifetime Concentrate and hate to have it go to waste. Is it a big no-no to mix brands - or am I being a bit anal on both these points? Should I add another 4 oz blue bottle conditioner when I replenish the lost gallon? If so any problem adding it directly into engire core via the Upper hose? Thanks Peter

So if necessary I can just buy the outer gasket - if I have squished it to hell? Heading out now for round two. Thanks as usual....

I was happy with the amount of coolant it took; about a gallon and a half - including overflow reservoir. I filled the engine core through the upper radiator hose. I did attempt to burp as described above. No.... I could kick myself. I should have spent a few more minutes with seating the thermostat. I did buy it from the dealer - $38.94 - Part # 21210AA030. Well I guess in a few hours I will be making another mess pulling the housing back off to see - damn. Spring side was inserted up into the housing; jiggle valve was hanging facing front of car just like old one. So I take from what you are saying, when installed, thermostat should sit tight into the housing and remain there - hands free? That was not the case when I put it in. It would not stay up in the housing without me holding it in place. I should have taken a breath and thought it through - damn. I'll bet I now ruined the outer gasket in the process by bolting in place as I did. I'll check it out and get back to you. But I take it if it doesn't sit up in the housing hands free it isn't right. So the possible takeaway is: Maybe my bad install is preventing the thermostat from opening.??? Therefore, the coolant in the block never gets refreshed. It just gets hotter and hotter - ultimately sending the temperature gauge into red?

So I took my ole Sube to the gym - first test - roughly 5 miles away. The temperature gauge looked fine until about mile 3 and then it started to climb. It was close to the red when I stopped. Coming home it hit the red and so I pulled over. Got it back in my driveway. I am getting some dripping from my lower hose (where it is connected to the radiator) - I replaced all four clamps and likely just need to tighten that one. I know from reading forums, having air pockets is often a problem, the system often requires burping. When I changed my coolant yesterday and still had it on jack stands with the radiator cap off - I let it idle for a good long time and revved the engine - thinking that was one approach. Not sure if air is my problem I am a bit concerned about the following, it had to do with my install of the new thermostat (purchased from dealer). When I disconnected the housing the original thermostat was stuck in place and essentially flush. I pried it out. But the new thermostat almost seemed a micrometer larger than the opening. The outer rubber gasket prevented me from being able to place the thermostat into the opening and let go. I had the jiggle pin hanging down, pointing the same way as the original, but I am worried it didn't set right. I held it in place with my fingers and then slammed the housing up to keep it from falling. I then bolted it in place ......like I said that is the only thing I can think of but clearly I have an issue. BTW, my radiator fans did go on....during the drive Question: Should the new thermostat be held in place on its own or is what I experienced the norm? My radiator fans did go on! And I just read a poster on NASIOC state that having the fans go on - indicates the thermostat is open? Is this a true statement???? Does the temperature gauge on the dash directly reflect the engine temperatures? Thanks Guys - Any Ideas? Pete

Well it was about 65 degrees and I did have the hood open the whole time. But maybe I am still in the dark about how it all works. What is it that triggers the fans to go on? Also I still don't understand why - when I popped the old thermostat off - no coolant came out of the engine core. Are you saying the the entire contents of the coolant in the block had dribbled through the jiggle valve into the lower radiator hose? If that is the case, wouldn't it mean that the engine would have no coolant until the thermostat opened? What am I missing?

Hello Everyone - I am the OP - and as you may have guessed a major procrastinator. In any event I finally changed my coolant using an OEM Thermostat from Subaru and added a bottle of conditioner. It would appear everything went well. I used the suggested approach of filling the engine core via the upper hose. I didn't change the hoses. I put my Subaru 2002 OBS 2.5L MT on jack stands and then: Disconnected and cleaned overflow bottle. I twisted the plastic butterfly screw on the bottom of the radiator and emptied the radiator. I disconnected the thermostat housing and replaced the thermostat. Reconnected. Filled engine core through upper radiator hose Filled radiator. Filled Overflow. Turned on car and let it run on stands. Probably had it running on the stands for 45 minutes - revving occasionally. Two Questions: The temperature gauge looks fine just less than half - but the radiator fans have not kicked on. Is this to be expected? Do you really need to get it on the road for the fans to go on? When I pulled off the old thermostat I was expecting a gush of water - nothing! Does this make sense? Thoughts Anyone? Thanks Pete

FYI, I had subaru credits expering so I bought an OEM thermistor and Expansion Valve) but don't want to pull out the evap core again to replace thermistor. I did pull it out last year and cleaned it because of the icing. There was crud in the bottom of evap holder. Plus they never installed a blower filter. So ..... if compressor video looks ok to you guys. What should I see for readings on my gauges to know if I need to just 'add' R134a. I don't feel like vac'ing and re-charging completely if I can just add some. What the Low and Hi side numbers to look for - to tell me if I should just add some???? Thanks Pete