stackman1

Hopefully this dropbox link works.... I opened the hood and pulled this hose forward a bit....this must be it right? If so I can reach it by leaning into the engine. Maybe just get some compressed air. Next time I run it I'll check to see if it is a drain....sure looks like one! Surprised it is relatively high on firewall.... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/IMG_20150704_141048400.jpg

Yes the black pliable rubber hose. In my link pic of the expansion valve - it was the black rubber tube that ran the bottom of the photo underneath the large white plastic piece. When I reach my hand up to where it terminates under the dash - that is where it gets wet. I will lift the hood up and see if I can spot where it comes through the firewall. Didn't realize that - Unfortunately I don't travel with my floor jack and jack stands - getting underneath may be an issue.

Hey FairTax - I made it to Florida in a cool car. Not only that but the traffic was not unbearable. I didn't get a chance to blow out my black drain hose before I left. Likely as a result - throughout the trip I was periodically wringing out a very wet towel every couple of hundred miles in the passenger footwell. Luckily I was riding solo. I'm not complaining because I was mostly concerned with getting my a/c running which you were instrumental in........but just have a configuration question. When I began this thread prior to last years trek to Florida I also had no a/c. And I did lots of research and among other things became convinced I needed to replace the expansion valve. It was a b#tch but I did it. I came across a fantastic thread that kind of walked me through the process. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/general-maintenance-troubleshooting-accidents/141059-its-getting-very-warm-outside-need-c-help.html The message on 6/12/2006 at 9:44pm has a series of pics. The 4th pic in that message shows the expansion valve. Here is my question: 1. The big white plastic piece I assume is the evaporator and under the bottom red arrow is a black tube..... 2. I assume this is the same tube that I would find under the car? 3. Is the idea that it has to be blocked somewhere so it is backing up and coming out where the black tube connects to the white evaporator? Happy Independence Day - let's pray for Fair Taxes

FairTax - totally forgot about the re-circulate! Been driving with fresh air constantly warming the cabin. Saw a YouTube where the the guy locates the a/c drain hose and blows compressed air up into the line to free any debris. I suppose I can buy a can of compressed air but for some reason the idea of blowing bad stuff back into the car internals is less than appealing.....maybe if it gets worse. Maybe the re-circulate will do it. You have been a tremendous help between the a/c and my stereo. Thanks

Drove it a bit on the highway today. It was fairly cool - at times it seemed to warm then cool again. Got some dripping inside passenger footwell. Not sure if drain tube is clogged or something is icing and thawing. Hopefully it is the former. Dreading the summer in Florida.....

Did the Ohm test and the left front speaker does show 0L. All other speakers show resistance and work. So does that mean my speaker itself is bad? Thoughts on what to do next? Thanks everyone.

Hey Guys - made some progress. Fairtax - have some questions/observations about your last post. Hopefully you can see the following video: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/20150614_140617.mp4 You said: You can check to make sure the hoses are not clogged by disconnecting both of the couplers from the service ports, the guages should still show system pressure. The way I read that you meant disconnect the quick release couplers attached to the high and low side shrader valves. That was not intuitive - especially because when I uncoupled the low side line - the refrigerant started coming out of the shrader valve. I quickly replaced the coupling and noticed the nut above the coupler on the hose had gotten loose. I re-tightened the nut with the coupling on the line - and suspect in doing so re-tightened the low side shrader valve inside the line. I unhooked the high side also but didn't take away anything meaningful from that side. I really was helped by you and Texan's words on the operation of the manifold gauges. When you told me I should unhook the hose from the refrigerant lines in the car , I realized the end of the hose must have a self-closing valve as well and thereby keeps the pressure as you said. And as suggested, I knew anytime I was about to add referigerant - I always briefly purged the central line for air before beginning the charge. Least I was doing that right...... In any case, by virtue of messing with the lines and doing some tightening I suspect - when I restarted the charge I was smiling because the can was finally getting cold as I remember is normally the case when the refrigerant is being accepted by the system. Put the second can on and emptied that and you see the results in the video. Low PSI ~ 33; High PSI ~ 150. I drove the car slowly around town and I will say it is cooler but not sure it is where it needs to be or if it will last.....although it held a complete vacuum before I began so hopefully it will hold. Is it possible it still need more R134a. What would you recommend? I don't leave for two weeks Do my readings suggest I still likely need to add more refrigerant?. I'll drive it a bit tomorrow and let you know but you've been a great help pushing me. Any Thoughts - please chime in Peter

Hopefully my dropbox links comes through - The PSI readings reflect charging the system from empty with what feels to be only 1/2 the first 12oz can? Question about Manifold Gauge. I call the valves on the ends - Gate Valves - I think that is more of a plumbing type term. But I visualize, when I turn the valves counter-clockwise I am retracting an internal pin. Assuming that is correct - it is only then that the Dial on top is meaningful - because only then the Dial - via the hose - has clear access to the pressure at the Schrader Valve. Right?

Hooked up gauges this morning. Started Car. A/C on. Opened both Gate Valves on Manifold Gauge Set. After about 20 minutes here is result: Low ~ 84psi; Hi ~ 75psi https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/Twenty%20Minutes.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/Full%20Pic.jpg

Good Morning FairTax and Cougar - (FairTax you are pulling double duty!). A disclaimer....I no nothing about electronics. Here is the backstory. Impreza going on 14 years. Original Receiver replaced under warranty because it would get hot and CDs would skip. Same with replacement. Listened to radio for ten years. Then the receiver just died (or at least all speakers quit at once) - not just one speaker. All I know to do is check fuses and fuses were always ok. So I ordered a cheap Boss Audio with an aux port to play mps3's - that is what I am attempting to install. I matched up the wires from the Boss Harnesses to the Scosche Harness (didn't solder, no butt connectors - just good twisted connections with black electrical tape until know everything will work) - plugged it in to the car's internal harness and everything works except left front speaker - which I assume means drivers side - yes? When you guys are talking about testing resistance are you talking about putting the probes on harness that comes from inside the car? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/Car%20Harness.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/108322879/Car%20Harness%20CloseUp.jpg Assuming I am checking "car" harness - should be car be switched on or running? Thanks

FairTax - do you you mean forget about charging the system for a moment and just - attach the manifold hoses to the low and high side shraders - with both gauge valves closed - and run the engine?

Thanks Guys - Texan - my 2002 supposedly holds 19oz. I have 2 cans of 12oz. FairTax - when charging (with the car running and a/c on) my High Side Gate valve on the Manifold is always closed. I got a complete vacuum before starting and it held - so when I began charging with the first can (Low Side open - High Side closed) - it seemed like it stopped sucking from the first can about half way through and the Low Side gauge reading was at ~ 120 PSI and so I got a little concerned. It seems in the past when charging, the system would suck in refrigerant as fast as it could get it. Did I just not wait long enough? I was charging for about 15 minutes and it only took in about 6oz. At least that's what it feels like. Should I just put it back on?

My Gate valve on the Manifold is turned closed on the high side while charging. The fittings at the end of both hoses have snap-on couplings that automatically open each shrader valve when attached. I have the Low Side open with a/c on while charging. Just re-attached gauge and ran a/c with both valves open and the manifold readings show low 90's PSI on both sides. Only hot air. Ideas - suggestions?

Got bored and restarted charge. Now Low Side charging around 125psi and High Side 75psi but I don't think the 12oz can is nearly empty and I had an empty system. The fans behind the radiator are turning. If I turn the a/c switch inside off - the compressor hub stops spinning - goes on when I press on.... Headed to Florida in 2 weeks - could mean life or death this summer -

Ok. Well I finally hooked the vacuum up properly and pulled a complete vacuum and it held. I then: 1. Attached the first 12oz can of refrigerant to my central hose and - without the car on - opened the valve on the can and then both the high and low side gauge valves. A YouTube video suggested that it should reach equal pressure with the can. Then: 2. I closed both gauge valves. Started the car with the fan and a/c turned to 'on' position. Then opened the low side gauge valve. 3. The low pressure side climbed to 95 but the high side is barely hugging 50 and I don't think it even took half a 12oz can. I got concerned and stopped the procedure because the low side was climbing faster than the high side. 4. In all I spent about 10 minutes charging before aborting. 5. The compressor clutch plate seems to be spinning....... 6. Should I keep charging???? Not getting any cold air.... Any tips - greatly appreciated!

I have an Impreza 2002. Stereo Receiver died. I bought an inexpensive Boss Receiver from Amazon and also bought a Scosche Wiring Harness. Put it in but not getting sound from front left speaker (double checked the wiring connection). I know it could be the speaker but prefer not to pull door panel off. I have an inexpensive radio shack multi-meter. Can I use it to track down my problem before attacking my door?

Ok - you got me - it is so embarassing - you know how with a manifold gauge the hoses have dummy couplers to hang the hoses for storage.....you know where I am going don't you....when I pulled the central line off the manifold to attach to the vacuum pump - I used the wrong end of hose - I left the hose attached to the dummy manifold coupler in place and attached the other end to the vacuum pump. Trying to vacuum 6' of yellow hose.... like I said a f##king numbskull Ha

I am a F##king idiot!!!! Never Mind

Hey Guys - I'm back with a troubling question. Last Year - with the help of this thread - I bought a Robinair 15115 Vacuum Pump and Mountain manifold gauges and successfully brought my 2002 Impreza a/c back to life. Back then - I was able to pull 29 inches of mercury - hold it and recharge. This year - once again facing Florida in the summer - I put my Vacuum Pump on with my gauges --> turned on the vacuum --> but the low side manifold gauge needle doesn't move even a little!!! Both gauge valves are open. I thought the pump sounded a bit stronger last year but who knows. It does suck but not sure if it is maxed. What am I missing? The pump has oil - is there a way to test the pump? It is odd and makes me think I am missing something obvious. My gauge valves are connected to the shraders.......odd that I see no initial bump on the needles....stuck at zero. I am going to process it a bit more because I bet it is something stupid but assuming I can't pull a vacuum and the pressure is at Zero - is it worth even try charging it? Any thought really welcome!

Yeah Keith - I think I will just get the Subaru Conditioner from Amazon and go with the Peak Long Life Concentrate and distilled water. The fact that the Subaru concentrate was sooo much cheaper gave me pause; it is likely as you say. Thanks

Wow. Great feedback. Had no idea silicone hoses were an option; just need to figure out diameter sizing. Also checked out aircraft clamps - really liked the look of these worm clamps with thumb screws. http://www.brownaircraft.com/category_s/153.htm http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/5mm-silicone-1-ply-radiator-heater-hose-1-metre-to-50-metres-blue-black.html

Thanks for the quick replies guys. Yeah I saw the $77 charge too on Amazon - funny. I use Walmart oil but might go with Amazon for my two coolant purchases. Really surprised the Subaru Coolant is so cheap. I am going to replace my engine oil on Sunday and get a better look at the radiator hose. If any of you have thoughts on the following please chime in...... While I have been good about changing my fluids and general maintenance - I admit to not being too bold with regard to hoses. I notice the hose clips everywhere seem rusted and the car is on getting up there in age. Two questions: 1. Any personal preferences on where to buy hoses? 2. Any suggestions on the best/easiest clamps to use in general - can those band clamps that tighten with a screw driver work anywhere or is there some reason to use the OEM clips? Thanks Peter

Hello Everyone. I have a 2002 Impreza OBS and was going to change my coolant. Done way too much reading but I was about to buy the Peak Long Life concentrate as it seemed the best match. But then I came across the the Subaru Coolant Conditioner that is suggested as an additive. Sounds like it is a good idea. I am getting a bit of head gasket leakage and it sounds like this could only help. Anyway I found it on Amazon and when I was there I also spotted what looked to be the OEM coolant from Subaru itself. I was surprised/suspicious that the Subaru Concentrate is more than 50% cheaper than buying the Peak Long Life at an Autozone? I have included links. Couple of questions: 1. Does my 2002 Impreza OBS have a bleeder valve to release the air in the coolant system or anyone have a link for the best way to bleed air on when refilling? (I have seen such valves on YouTube videos for other cars - but don't see it listed in my Haynes manual). 2. Any reason not to buy the inexpensive Subaru Coolant Concentrate (beyond my paranoia?) Thanks Peter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007L72U1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A12WOLQM5J3T6R http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

Crown - The car was not running when I used the vacuum pump. I assumed that was the proper method. After turning pump off I left gauges on and it held a vacuum - then I recharged. I will look again but I don't see a receiver/dryer on my model 2002 Impreza OBS. Thanks

FairTax That explains why my first can got so cold I couldn't hold it! I opened the valve all the way on both. The second one didn't get cold at all and was empty in a flash. I guess I slightly overfilled it since I supposedly put in 24oz instead of the 16-19 range but too late. When it gets warmer I will throw my gauges back on after it has been running awhile and check to see if I am in your psi number range. Really appreciate the feedback. Peter