Wallis_93

Damn well that sucks. Guess I'll be ordering one that comes with a hub. I ruined one of my hubs beating on it. I'd rather replace the hub anyway. Wish I knew that earlier but I guess I won't do that again. Think its okay to mix and match type of bearing? For example, OEM on one side and Timken on the other?

Hey guys, its been quite a while since I posted on here. I've been having a hard time doing my rear wheel bearings on my 2003 Subaru Outback and finally started making some decent progress. Anyway, I have the replacement Timken rear bearings but I would like to replace the hubs as well. My problem is that I can't seem to find anyone selling only the hubs. Is this a part that needs to be ordered from the dealer?

The plugs I used were platinum but I will try to find the receipt for the actual plugs to make sure. I will definitely try the battery disconnect trick and see how it does. My engine does seem to vibrate more but I think one of my axles is bad and heard it can cause that. Check engine light is back off for now. I will check all the hoses for correct fitment again. Thanks for the advice everyone!

Hey everyone, just looking for help with a recent issue. So lately I've been driving my car super easy to see what kind of difference I could get in mpg. I did it for a week and had this issue pop up two or three times. The car basically shudders. That is the best way I can put it. It is three quick jolts that almost feel like a downshift except of course there are three jolts. This happens when the vehicle is doing a constant speed. Once at about 45mph and again around 25mph. RPMs did not change when it happened and it sort of felt like something was seizing up. It only happens when driving the car extremely easy and has never happened to me before this week. My car does seem to have some other problems at the moment. I have a check engine light on for what I believe is either an oxygen sensor or a spark plug possibly. I had the code read and it said one of the banks were running lean. Reason why I say spark plug is because I did not check the gap and feel that maybe it was an issue. Has anyone ever had this happen? I used some plugs recommended on this forum while doing my valve cover gasket. Anyway, hoping to get some advice and appreciate any help!

I heard that wiring was one of the harder things to do but would a stand alone ecu be best? I thought I saw that somewhere but can't remember. Also trying to figure out all the parts I'd need.

Hey guys I've seen some information online about manual swapping an H6 outback. There isn't a whole lot of info so I am hoping to get some help. I'm honestly not sure yet if I'll ever swap it but just thinking on it. Anyway, I found someone selling a wrx 5 speed with the rear differentail, axles, the drive shaft, and the clutch for $700. That seems like a good deal but I'll do some more research to check. I have my cousin who will help me if I decide to do this swap and we both have decent mechanical experience. He's swapped a few engines and transmissions before. Anyway I'm concerned with how the wiring will go if I end up swapping the transmission. I also am not sure what else I'll need. I know I'll probably need a Guage cluster, pedal, clutch parts, etc. If anyone has any help, advice, or input I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks for all the info. The main reason I'm considering it is that it is by far one of the nicest GLs I've seen in my area. Most seem to have rusted out or are already missing parts, etc. I got him down to $1,200 so far and will see what it looks like when I go to meet him. He said it has a crack in the windshield and no rust but pictures can be deceiving. It is an automatic and I'd prefer a MT but maybe I could swap it when I do a 4WD conversion. Would it be Best to do both conversions at the same time? There are a decent bit of parts cars in my area so I believe I can find a good donor vehicle.

Mine still comes on and goes off. I also haven't found out what is causing it. I have noticed that it will usually come on after some hard pulls; usually after driving for a couple miles. Then maybe less than 50 miles later it will go off again. Have you noticed any trends with your driving habits?

Hello guys, I've been looking for an older subaru for a while and found one in very good condition for $1,500. Its a 1988 GL10 sedan. It has only 80k miles on it and only 1 owner but it is FWD. I was wondering how hard it is to convert to 4WD. The body and the rest of the car looks so nice that if it isn't too hard I'd be willing to do it. Advice?

Well my check engine light went off after driving in the snow for a little. Guess I'll have to see if it comes back on.

My 2003 Subaru Outback H6 sedan with 156k miles just threw this code. The person at autozone said something about a MAF sensor but it appears our cars dont have this. Someone said something about cleaning the PCV valve or just buying a new one altogether. Any advice or recommendations? Planning on driving my car for the next week until I can fix it.

Haha I'm terribly sorry about that. Its a 2003 Subaru Otback sedan H6 3.0 liter. I currently have 155k miles and bought it a bit over 2 years ago at 125k miles. I think the noise might be ball joints but still not sure. The sound is now also coming from the front driver's side. I took off the rear tire and took a look and the strut seemed like it could be leaking but I think I'm going to take it to my shop to see exactly what the problem is. Also, if it is the ball joints should I get oem or aftermarket? Oem seems to be about twice as expensive.

Thanks for the info. What happens if say it was barely over? For example 310 pounds. Would this be very bad/dangerous? I know next to nothing about towing and tongue weight, etc.

I have a 2003 Subaru Outback H6 and was thinking of getting a hitch and one of those little motorcycle racks/carriers. This is not a trailer and would hang off the back of the car by way of the hitch. Not sure how much the carrier is but I'd be loading it up with a dirtbike. I'm guessing no more than ~260 pounds plus weight of the carrier. Would it be able to handle this or am I going to be putting too much stress on the rear suspension? I've loaded the trunk with about 200 pounds before on a shooting trip and it seemed perfectly fine but 300+ pounds hanging off the very back makes me think it wouldnt be good. If it can handle it then what would the maximum weight be? Just wondering because I've always thought about getting a project bike as well. Thanks and I appreciate any help or advice!

Thanks for the suggestion rooster. I'll check to make sure but pretty sure the exhaust was ok. Also I forgot to mention that when it makes the clanking noise you can feel it throughout the vehicle. It's very subtle and not too noticeable. The best way I can describe it is that it feels like something is popping in/out of place over and over. Not sure how much sense that makes but trying to describe it the best I can.

I was planning on taking it to the shop at the end of the week to see if they notice anything. I figured I'd ask here first just in case if anyone had a similar problem. I had the tire off earlier but didn't notice much because I have a decent bit of mud under there. I'll probably try to clean it and check again. I'm sure it's not the axle as it's in good shape and the car has been making the noise for a couple months now.

I've had a noise coming from the rear suspension on the driver side of the vehicle. It is a clanking noise and usually only happens when a lot of load is put on the tire. For example, a hard uphill acceleration on a 90 degree turn from a stop sign; turning while going up a small hill basically. It also makes a squeaky noise if I push down on the rear of the vehicle. I feel like it has something to do with the strut or shock but my uncle said it could be a bushing. Any ideas? It's been like this for a while and haven't noticed much difference in drivability.

Well I finally did it. Front axle is completely on and now I just need to do the rear axle. I'm going to tackle it tomorrow and I'm pretty confident that it'll go much faster. Thanks everyone for the help.

Ok thanks for the advice. I think I'm just going to replace these one with oem. Also, the pin near the transmission; I heard it needs to be pushed out in a certain direction. Is this true?

Ok well I finally busted it out. I left the ball joint connected to the LCA and busted it out of the hub. The balljoint is in ok condition and not broken. Axle came out easily from the hub. Now just need to remove it from the transmission side. I'll have to leave that until tomorrow as I ran out of time today. Thanks for all the help everyone. Also, how hard is it to push the ball joint back in? Are they expensive? If not I feel like it'd be a good time to replace it anyway.

Thanks nvu I was doing that wrong most likely. Mikaleda, did you remove the steering bar thing first? Or did you do it simultaneously with the ball joint?

Yeah for some reason I couldn't get the camber bolts off. I noticed the bolt head starting to get damaged so I stopped. It felt tighter than the axle nut!

Ok I'll try it with a bigger hammer and a pry bar. Thanks for the advice. Will the steering (rod/linkage?) Also pop out at the same time?

So I've been meaning to change my axles for a while and have had a lot going on so I parked my outback for about a month and now finally have time to do it. I saw that there were two ways to get to the axle; you can take off the camber bolts or you can remove the lower control arm. I decided to go with the latter since I was having so much trouble with the camber bolts. I removed the bolt holding the LCA to the hub. I figured I had to remove the nut from the steering and the top most sway bar bolt/nut. This is where I started to run into a problem. I can't get anything undone even though all the nuts are off. The LCA doesn't budge and I can't get the steering bolt out either. I saw a video where a guy used a pry bar but he also already had the steering part off. Sorry if I can't explain this too well. Anyway do you guys have any advice for me? I've been hitting it with a hammer trying to loosen it and also sprayed a ton of wd40. Nothing budget and I feel like I'm just doing something wrong.

How much does that typically cost? Is it something that would be easy to do? Would I need to remove the engine to do it? Also would conventional oil leak less or does it not really matter (heard that somewhere but not sure if it's correct).