schspeedster

When is the MANUAL button best used on the first gen Legacy? If I understand the owners manual, all the button does is allow starting in 2nd.

There is an independent Wedde's in Bath http://getusedsubaru.com/

'93 Legacy w/195K purchased w/mismatched tires. Replacing w/new set of 4 did not correct torque bind. Draining pan & refilling auto trans fluid fixed the problem. Several drain/refill cycles may be safer than trans flush on worn trans, trans flush solvents may flush out too much crud at once and cause Bad Things to happen.

I asked my dealer about this for a trip to Canada, for switching the odometer & temperature displays, no way to do this without replacing the cluster. My '80s GM car had a English/Metric button, the Detroit engineers actually gave this some thought.

The Impreza costs and weighs less than the Legacy. Any big tradeoffs besides back seat room, like ride comfort, noise, vibration? I am over 6'2" and the Impreza wagon drivers seat actually seems roomier than the Legacy. And how about resale value? 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS Sport 2976 lbs / 165HP@5600RPM / power-to-weight ratio 18.3 Front headroom 38.6 in / Front legroom 42.9 in. Dlr invoice approx $16862 2005 Legacy L 3200 lbs / 168HP@5600RPM / power-to-weight ratio 19.4 Front headroom 39.5 in / Front legroom 44.1 in. Dlr invoice approx $19678 stats from http://theautochannel.com/

My guess is running in FWD would unevenly wear the tires unless they were rotated frequently, this would be a problem when returning to AWD. Rain & gravel don't go away in summer, still worth having traction when needed.

Speaking of tire pressure, any rim defects that could cause slow leakage with one of 4 new tires, around the valvestem as seen in tire shop tub? Valvestem has been replaced twice.

Any list of items to check / replace with strut, so as to have new parts on hand ? For example: Strut mount Boot Spring (is there a dimensional check to see if originals OK?) Related parts Sway bar links & bushings Brake lines Drive axles Ball joints Tie rods Any grinding of the mounting holes needed to give room for alignment shop adjustment?

Thanks for the info! Have a set on order. Anyone find deals on strut mounts and front swaybar links?

I used a turkey baster to do this, as a preventative measure.

Find a carrying case.

1st, check tire pressure. Had this symptom, front right tire had a slow leak at valvestem.

I want one! Have an unused ruggedized aluminum suitcase, and tools scattered around the garage, need some foam rubber that can be cut out, so every tool has its place. http://www.subaru-msm.com/global/feature/letterSWRT/15.html http://www.swrt.com/440096.html And the Ultimate Subaru Portable Garage Maybe Rally is one reason why most everything on a Subaru seems designed for ease of service. Some of their engineers could have had to actually lie on the ground and use a wrench out in the snow, to get the car back in a rally. http://www.swrt.com/cpimages/671924.jpg http://www.swrt.com/cpimages/678316.jpg

What's the difference between the 4EAT on the 05 Baja Sport and 05 Legacy autostick? Maybe thats an easier upgrade? The Baja auto needs some guidance from the driver.

How to determine engine & drivetrain condition by inspecting a non-running car? Any external signs of destruction besides a big hole in block? Spark plug condition or soot inside exhaust a good clue? Do crash impacts kill the motor from mechanical shock, even if the engine compartment is intact? I assume an experienced tranny tech could drop the pan and make a decision based on debris in pan. Next question, how many men and what tools to bring to pull a motor at the U-Pull-It junkyard?

On a GM car this could be an open blower motor resistor. I would guess same thing on Subaru.

On the '93 I can see electrical wires & stuff that run alongside the engine compartment, viewed thru the door hinges, so I would NOT recommend blasting hi-pressure water inside the fender. Maybes the wiring's waterproof in that space but I wouldnt bet on it. Compressed air & piece of coathanger wire gets rid of most debris before washing. I would prefer to repair with fender off car if its not too difficult to remove. I wonder what Subaru dealers or indepent detailers & bodyshops call this service, taking an older car and cleaning inside body panel voids & drain holes, partial disassembly, rust treatment?

I got a cheap 93 Legacy L 25th Anniversary edition sedan. Overall it looks like it was kept clean, garaged, well cared for, except rust-thru is beginning at the driver's side wheel well arches. The front rustout is at the bottom of the fender, back rustout where quarter panel meets bumper. The inside of the front fender was packed full of debris: leaves, seeds, and crud. This space can be seen by the door hinges. I removed at least a pound or two, using a hooked wire, shopvac, and compressed air, (yuk). Can't say for sure this caused the outside to rust, but keeping a damp organic mixture in contact with metal can't be too good. In the rear, there was some dirt packed inside the lip of the wheel well. Removed with hooked wire and shop air. BTW, while on the Legacy you can see all the way inside the front fender, on my Baja most of the void is sealed top-to-bottom with some kind of foam, there is still a space for debris to collect. This will be an easy job, just use a vacuum cleaner with crevice tool or compressed air. Any other voids or drainage holes to inspect? Recommendations on rust preventative sprays that won't seal moisture into existing rust?

Just got a 93 Legacy 25th Anniversary sedan and rust-thru is starting at the usual spots, wheel wells at front fender & quarter panel. I was thinking use my air tools, angle grinder, and Dremel to wire brush, grind, or cut away all rusty metal, treat with something like http://www.por15.com/, then Bondo. What is "The Right Way" to fix? Are replacement fenders and quarter panels available at cost appropriate for a car with 200K miles, or does someone make wheel well sections that can be welded in place of the damaged areas? What treatment for underbody components like suspension parts, besides disassemble/ wire brush/ prime & repaint/reassemble? I was thinking of an oil that's sprayed on periodically, isnt there a special oil for this purpose? I would expect paint on rusty metal to be worse than useless. BTW I think I saw the inside of the front fender packed with leaves and gunk behind the rust out area. I would recommend to everyone that they clean this area out, the crud acts like a sponge that'll hold moisture in contact with metal. Spray wax wouldnt hurt.

AWD isn't just for snow. It helps on gravel or rain+oil slicked surfaces, for example pulling out of a driveway onto a main road where there is low visibility, no shoulder, high-speed traffic, you don't want to sit there any longer than necessary spinning front tires.

My guess as to why there isn't a FWD/AWD switch on the dash: Uneven tire wear. If AWD was enabled only for snow, and tires were not rotated, the tires would then differ in size. Subaru AWD would get an undeserved reputation as unreliable junk that binds up and needs expensive repairs. This would explain why the owner's manual doesn't encourage leaving the fuse installed. Got my Legacy with front tires more worn than rears. Felt something binding up, which went away with FWD fuse installed. Is it possible to measure a pair of replacement tires in the tire shop to match, or will I be buying a set of 4? I can now appreciate AWD isn't just for snow, after installing the fuse, pulling out of a parking lot with loose gravel onto a main road into traffic, and spinning the front tires.

No Check Engine light. Hold accel down while cranking from cold start, starts right up.

1993 EJ22 4EAT - From a cold start (30-35F), it cranks, but doesnt want to start until I hold the accelerator down while cranking. Does this indicate a flooding condition, or cold start injector not delivering gas? Starts & runs fine rest of the day.

Just got a 2nd Subaru, 93 Legacy 2.2 190K miles, on cold starts (30-35F outside) it cranks but doesnt always start unless I hold accelerator to floor. Other than that, runs great. On GM MPFI holding accelerator to floor while cranking is flood clearing mode, where does diagnostics start for this?

check with mcbrat,he does great work Good idea, especially if on the windows and by the tow hook attachment points, and with notice that towing company will be held responsible for damage caused by improper towing.