Jabbott126

So I came up with this idea since I have tons of spare stuff laying around and I don't feel like spending a small fortune on a lift kit. I'm going to try stacking the top hats for the front struts (I'm still working to see if that same idea might work for the rear) ill Remove the studs and use some grade 8 bolts That pull the top hats together. Also planning to double up the trailing arm spacers from my parts car for a slight body lift. Comments? Opinions? Suggestions?

https://andersondesign-fab.com/product/55/ These would be a better choice I'm guessing

Cool thanks for the input I'm currently looking to install a lift in my 97 outback. I currently am getting 03 Forester struts but I would like a bit more than the 1 inch lift that I will get from that. Maybe I'll just go with the the 1 " strut spacers from either Anderson or subtle solutions

So i found these prowling ebay... Anyone have experience with this seller or other sellers on ebay? was the product what you expected? The only thing that came to mind for me was if these spacers would effect chamber/caster angle. and if it did would the chamber bolt on the strut be able to adjust for it? EBAY SPACERS https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Lift-Kit-40mm-for-SUBARU-Forester-97-07-Impreza-00-07-Legacy-93-98/112459805543?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dc5394ff434d44a7695ca1dfca8b56428%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D162951277982%26itm%3D112459805543&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

So I have a 1998 Subaru outback and I have a 02 Subaru forester that im parting out. So on the off chane the motor doesn't sell I planned to rebuild it and was wondering if it would be feasible to put into the OBW. I know I will have to use my older intake/harness, and possiably the coolant passage but is there anything else that would stop me from swapping this SOHC into my outback?

ok cool thank you. so should I plug the vacuum line going to the dizzy with something before I test it then?

Nope no leaks that I know off. But either way The symptoms of retarded timing is exactly what it is doing. I have a distributor on the way so hopefully that helps the problem.

ok so I tried finding the green connecters but I could only find 1 end. I've read that the green plugs only make a difference of around 3deg. But I could be wrong. Either way, I cant get it any better than 5-7btdc so im a ways off.

O so im working on the loyale again and I have gone through and replaced the bad turbo, done a compression test, VERY CAREFULLY set the timing, and checked all the spark plugs for good spark. SO now im still trying to figure out why the car revs so slow. My best guess is the distributor is not working properly. I got 5 deg. of timing when I checked. I read that on the turbo models it is supposed to be at 20 deg. Le time know what you guys think. I looking at getting a distributor now but if that's not the issue I don't wanna waste my time.

thanks for the input guys. Should help me locate one quickly.

ok So I have a 90 Loyale turbo and the distributor needs to be replaced. Just wondering if the turbo dizzy is the same as the N/A dizzy. if so im in luck...if not im out $200 bucks

Well I pull the vacuum line and still no boost. So I took the turbo off. Seems like it was pretty hard to turn. I believe it may have been oil starved. Either way I got a new one in the mail so hopefully I can get some boost soon. But I'll have to take out the lines to the turbo and see if they got clogged or something. Hopefully I can figure everything out

Thanks Uberoo that's exactly what I was looking for!

looks pretty nice with that 2" lift. What size tires are you running?

yeh forsure I have enough cash to at least get the lift kit then ill hopefully be able to save up for new tires and other offroad goodies.

So I'm finally giving up on trying to make the Loyale a lowered race car and instead I'm gonna turn it into what it was made to be. that being a trail ready DD with tons of offroad goodness. So I'm gonna need a lift. I'm looking at different options and Ive been doing lots of reading. I'm kinda stuck in between a 2" and a 4" lift. the wheel/tires ill be running for now are a set of outback wheels with 215/70/r15s on them. Not massive tires so i should have plenty of clearance. So the big question is What are the set backs. I heard possibly having to make my steering shaft longer, also the body lift, how much is necessary and will i need to adjust the shift linkage or any wiring in the car. I just want to fully understand what I'm getting into before i go throw all this stuff on my car. thanks

So i have been chasing the cause of the reason for my car to be running rough. its a 90 Loyale with the EA82T 4wd 5 speed. So at the moment the car is not building any boost and its running choppy. I runs and drives still but it is VERY slow. So far i have checked and reset the timing and the ignition timing. BEfore i reset the timing i was reading 0* ignition timing on my gun after i reset it im up to about 5* (to my knowledge i need to be at 20*). I do believe that the turbo may be damaged as it is making a ticking noise and it gets louder with revs. I had the manifold welded a few months back and i have a feeling that a chunck of slag from the welder broke off into the exhaust and ran through my exhaust wheel. I have not check yet but i will be doing so this weekend. BUT today i ran a compression test on my engine today and got some unfortunately low numbers. cylinder #1 = 90 psi cylinder #2 = 110 psi cylinder #3 = 90 psi cylinder #4 = 100 psi all these numbers were taken after about 7 to 8 cranks on the motor. I ran the engine for about 10mins before i tested it and i held the throttle open while cranking. when i first would crank the engine over i would only jump to about 20-30psi. From my knowledge these numbers are not great but i figured that i would run it by you guys and see what you thought. thanks

well i just checked the timing and everything looks good. i ran through the scequence of the timing belt install and just checked to make sure everthing lined up right. Could my probly possibly be a bad distributor?

Car im working on 1990 Subaru Loyale EA82T Ok so my car has been running very sluggish lately. So i started doing some reasearch and descovered that ignition timing and or timing is probably my issue. So today i re set the iginition timing. i pull the distributor out and the cylinder #1 spark plug. I found TDC and set the timing to 0* (after I checked the drivers side cam for the hole to line up with the top mark) i put my distributor back in with the rotor facing toward #1 bank and put everything back together. I started her up and she was very boggy so i adjusted and then checked it with a timing light. When it was running some what ok it was at 0* timing ( I believe it needs to be at 20* forthe 87 and up turbo models) and i couldnt get it to go any higher because i maxed the adjustment out on the distributor. So could my timing possibly be off a few teeth? the belt did feel a bit loose for my liking. Just wanted to pick some brains before tearing down the front of my engine/car. Let me know what you guys think thanks

yeh I was thinking the same. right now im using a garden hose attached to a funnel. it works but is very annoying to use

What all do I need to replace the rear wheel bearing on my 90 loyale 4wd turbo. It's got xt6 5 lug swap in the rear.

So I've been looking around and haven't been able to find a replacement for the gas filler tube. Mine has a bad rust hole right above the clamp and leaks like a sive. Anyone know other cars that will fit or where to buy a new oem tube?

bump

Just wondering if anyone has any pictures of homemade crossmembers that they have made for the EJ swaps. I thought I had a XT6 crossmember but the junkyard completely destroyed it when they pulled the motor and trans out of the car. so now I gotta fab one up.

Phase I is OBD2 but it was older electronics (sensors like MAFT, IAC, TPS, etc) Phase II is OBD2 as well with all updated stuff. I would look into if you are Phase 1 or 2 because I know the Subaru RS was a car that 98 was a change over year. Do some research and make sure that you know what your getting into. I had troubles just swapping a 98 to a 99 Outback and it was because I was running Phase 2 in the car but the 98 forester engine I picked up had sensors. for example the IAC was a big pain because it is mounted in a completely different spot on a phase 1 ej25 than it was on a phase 2 ej22. I had to make a adaptor plate up to get it to work with the new IAC. So my recommendation would be RESEARCH! find other people that have don't this and find out what their hiccups were. Its a lot easier to read about something that figured by someone else rather than doing everything yourself as you go. especially if this is your first engine swap.