toni1595

Aw come on calebz, don't rain on my parade yet. I know never say never but, it does "seem" to be working as it should. Won't know for sure until I use the car for a time. Its kind of ironic, the post started out looking for a plug and it ended up being a plug problem,or so it seems, that was causing the trouble. Toni.

Glory be I found the problem! While I was floundering around searching for the control unit underneath the glovebox, I happened to notice a male/female connector set which were very close to each other but yet were disconnected. I figured what the heck, whats the worst that could happen, blow a fuse or a component? The moment I connected it the seatbelt went into its correct position for the door being open. And now everything works great! I figured it would be something simple. Imagine how long, if ever, that it would have taken to diagnose that problem. I'd like to thank all you guys/gals that have taken their time to help/post on this particular problem. Just the moral support alone is worth alot. I felt a little silly after I found it because of all the other stuff I went through, but then again who could of known that a connector would have come unhooked. Its strange to because its one of those ones that have the little lock thingy on the side of it. I guess it didn't really get snapped in at the factory. To whoever posted the pdf file, Thanx. I tried to download it but I'm on dialup and at 145 pages, I gave up after about 45 minutes. I would like to have a look at that diagram just to see how it is setup. I may, on a slow day, try it again. Thanx again, Toni.

Well I guess as far as diagnostics for the Loyale seatbelts, I really don't think it exists. I have received an e-mail from Legacy 777 and verified that the info. was for a Legacy model. Oh well. I'm wondering if the problem isn't in the control module itself. I could take the one out of my other '92 and put it into the trouble car and see what that will net me. I've been checking the limit switches ( at least the ones that I can get at) and so far they seem to be working. The one on the door post has those blasted torx screws with the center dimple in it and I don't have any of those tips. I did get the problem belt to retract one time so I know that the motor does in fact work. Although it won't go back out when you open the door again. Actually I think the door was open and the belt went to the closed position.? The thing that puzzles me right now is, what tells the control unit when to retract/ unretract when the door closes/opens? I pretty sure that it is not done by the dome light switch because I've tried it on the working side. The switch has got to be connected to that bar that slides inside of the door between the hinges, but it is hard to see in there even with the inside panel off. I don't think its a magnetic or proximity type switch either. I'll keep plugging away because this car won't be on the road for a while as I need to do some welding on the headpipe after work sometime this week. Toni.

I think you're right Craig, it does say that the problem car is a '90 Legacy. I guess I was figuring that they would be about the same. Evidently they are a different animal. At least I won't go crazy trying to find a plug that doesn't exist...... There was a local Subaru guru that used to wrench in this area and he told me one time that if I ever had a problem with the auto. seatbelts that he wished me alot of luck because I guess they are kind of complicated. Are there any wiring diagrams available for these belts? Or will it be a trial and error thing? Its probably just a stuck limit switch or some simple thing like that. After I get some of my other issues repaired on this Sub., I'll probably dig into this and see what I can come up with. Thanx, Toni.

Well I'm back with another Loyale question. I did a search of the archives and found a decent article about diagnosing a problem with the automatic seatbelts. It was answered by a Legacy 777 I think. Well anyway in the post it tells of a plug which is located under the lower instrument panel and to ground the #2 socket to start the sequence of codes. I'll be darned if I can find this plug. Knowing me its probably staring me right in the face and I'm just not seeing it. I PM'd Legacy 777 but I haven't heard a word or even if he/she is around this site anymore. Has anyone ever had to use this plug or do you know where I might find it? Thanx, Toni.

Well I guess anything can and does wear out. You see this guy is always dissing Subarus and was once again bringing up another example of why they are of little value. I on the other hand disagree. I've had real good luck with them. You just need to know what to watch for. Just like this Suby I just picked up last week. Yes,it has some issues but, I'll get them resolved and I will have a car that won't be on the recall list every few months. Unlike his other vehicle, a 1998 Chevy Pickup. Toni.

Hello all, a guy I work with has a 1995 Legacy Wagon and he claims that a mechanic he uses had to replace the rack and pinion steering on his Sub. I have never heard of this myself but then again I've only driven Loyales and older. Is this possible or is this mechanic blowing smoke?? Thanx, Toni.

O.K. I've done some more checking and what I found may good or bad depending on how it is perceived. The first thing I found was that the key was left on while I was checking previously, OOPS! .......So I went ahead and hooked up again and I was back to the 2.30 amps again. Still would seem high to me. I pulled the bigger wire off of the alternator and it didn't make any difference. I tried to get the smaller wires off but I couldn't seem to budge them and I didn't want to break the plug. I then proceeded to take out the fusible links one by one and found that when I took the second one from the front of the car out, the draw went down to 1.50 amps. I haven't got a clue what that goes to. Just for the hell of it I set up the ammeter hookup on my road worthy 1992 Loyale and found it had a draw of 2.30 amps, what the heck is going on?? I've never had any problem with this car and it has an old (I've had the car for 6 years) Sears Diehard and even in the winter and with 205K miles, this car always takes right off. Maybe with this car sitting for a month, even a new battery could run down, I don't know. Where my user Subaru runs daily the current draw isn't a problem. Is it possible to run a brand new battery to a dead condition with a current draw of 2.30 amps in 1 month?? It appears so. Toni.

Hello fellow Subers. I've recently purchased a "slightly" used, 142K miles , 1992 Loyale. Of course it has several "little" problems. One of them I'm currently trying to scope out is that the battery is going dead. When I first checked out the car the guy that had it said it had a new battery so I was expecting a quick turnover....... It barely had enough power to make the dashlights work. After boosting it and getting it home I set up a ammeter between the negative cable and the negative post and it showed a draw of 3.55 amps. Quite a bit I would say. I pulled the fuses one by one and the only real difference that I saw was when I took the fuse with the clock on it. The draw went down to about 2.30 amps.......... The previous owner said that he had trouble with the automatic seatbelts so he disconnected the passenger side, after he got it back to the correct position. Other than that I don't know of anything else that is out of the ordinary. Any ideas?? Thanx, Toni.

Yea,the dealership in Bangor, Maine had one of those Brats fitted with a snowplow. And they used to use it for small storms. I think it was more of a promotional thing than anything else though. I'm pretty sure the salt ate it as happens to most of them up here. I'd like to try the plow thing on this Loyale after taking it off the road. Maybe fit it with one of those fiberglass plows I've heard of. Make a good conversation piece if nothing else.

Well its pouring rain on the plain in Maine and I was planning to do some roofing work but I think I'll pull the radio out today to see what that will net me. Maybe something as simple as a loose antenna connection......... I didn't know but maybe someone else has seen this before??........ I've got an '88 out back with a radio in it but I can't vouch for its integrity. I think it was working when I parked it?? Anyways thanks to all for your input......When I was younger I used to play around with different sound systems in my old Soobs and I remember how much of a pain it was to get them to fit, but now I only need a decent stereo radio.

No, the only thing that that does is make the interference noise louder. It is definitely something to do with the ability to pull the stations in, because I can tune to a local "country" station and its wall to wall. There is this particular station that plays classic rock and its the one I have trouble with. Its weird, its almost as if someone turns on a switch and bang it comes right in. Go figure......

Hello all, like it says in the subject line, the radio sort of cuts in and out at random almost as if the antenna was coming unhooked at times. It seems worse when you first start out with it and it is cold. Then while your driving it all of the sudden the radio will come in loud and clear?? Is it new radio time or is there a quickie fix? Thanx.

Well I thought I'd update this post. Sorry for the delay, but, been busy with stuff........... I think that the problem that I was having was the oil level was real low. While I had the spare tire out working on the exhaust I figured I'd check it and "wow", it was barely reading on the end of the dipstick! Since I've filled it up the "popping out" seems to have gone away. And the more that I drive it the better it seems to shift. A heck of a lot smoother shifts and the vibration is less also. Hopefully this has cured my problem.Thanks to all for the input.

Ya that's right,(scratching head), the guy I bought it from a few years ago is an ex-subaru mechanic and I remember him saying something then about some rubber bushings being worn and causing the gear shift to make a buzzing or vibrating noise, if you will. As I recalled I pulled the boot off the shifter to take a look see and found that I couldn't really do anything from up above. I guess all work must be done from underneath. Anyone else have any ideas??

Hello fellow Subers. Lately I've been noticing a potential problem with my 1992 Loyale.4wd 5 speed. Its been coming out of 4th gear all by itself. Its done it before when I've had my hand resting on it and I figured I kind of inadvertantly knocked it out. But lately when I hit a bump it will just come right out as if it weren't really "locked" in. Has anybody ever heard of this happening before? Is there an easy fix or is it "start looking for another tranny" time? Thanx in advance for your input.

Yes, I'll definitely try to add another ground, but not until the outside temperature gets to above 10*F. I can wait for that as its been doing that for probably ever since I've had the car, not really a necessary thing, just an annoyance. So far the repair on the tee is holding up well. And I can wait until Spring to get another. Thanks for the offer hoozie. I'll probably end up at a local yard to get one as well, as a new dealer one just might cost more than the car's worth. LOL.

Wow, this site is like a pot-of-gold. That article is just another example. Where else could one get such details!! I wasn't able to get the part from my local NAPA store and he didn't even try to see if he could order one, so, I guess its back to the "Evil Empire" to get one from them. Unless one of you guys know of a place where I could order one at a reasonable price?? What I ended up doing was to take a long 1/8" steel pop rivet and remove the mandrel and grind off the head of it and use it as a sleeve and then use a liberal amount of Krazy Glue and "Viola" I was back in business!! Of course this probably isn't a permanent repair, but, it willl get me back and forth to work in the mean time. There is one other thing that bugs me about this car. Its the intermittent on the windshield wipers. It works good on the slow and fast settings, but, on the intermittent it will keep hesitating all the time its on. It seems like it wants to go, but, it just don't seem to make it. I tried taking a motor off my old '88 and one off my brothers old '81 and neither one did any better. While I was checking them out with a battery charger I noticed that the '81 used less amps so I ended up using that one. Any ideas??? Thanx.

O.K. I thought I'd better post right back. After some more tracing of the vacuum lines I've discovered a black plastic tee that is hooked up to some big black round sphere, and other lines, that is broken off. Its easier to find stuff in the light of day I guess. While I had the car running and the 4wd button "on" I pinched off one of the lines and when I got in to shut the car off it had already engaged. So I'm pretty sure thats the problem. Funny thing is, this tee has a Ford emblem on it?? Aftermarket??? Anywho, I'm headed for my local NAPA to see if they can come up with this. I've checked my old '88 and it does not have this part on it. Probably because the 4wd is manually engaged I guess. Well thanks calebz for your intended help. I'll post back with my results.

Hello all. I had such good luck here before on my coolant thermosensor, I thought I'd try back with another. Basicallly what it is, my 4wd does not engage. I'm certain that its not because I've had it in enough times to recognize that familiar stiffness. I've done some searches of other posts and checked out the vacuum lines on the white "fuel filter" looking thing and they seem o.k. And I tried the heater/defrost switching and it does seem to be working alright. I traced the vacuum lines to some electrical looking things near the fuel filter. Are they something to check out or do they bother at all? Today ,where I couldn't get out of the driveway after this snowstorm , and incidentally not able to get to work , I'm going to get underneath and look for that switch that I've read about that is mounted on the tranny and see if I can get at that and check it out, maybe it is just sticking, I don't know? Anything else to check on??? Thanx ,Toni. Oh, and by the way, this is a 5 speed manual trans. and the dash indicator light does not come on either.

Wow, thanks a million Skip, that link worked and I've taken the coolant sensor out the donor car '88 and put it into the '92 and it took right off on the first crank and ran as it always has. If I had only found this site sooner I'd of saved myself all this aggravation I've gone through since this Spring. Oh well at least its fixed and all is well in Subaru land. I called my local NAPA store to price out a new FICT and they only wanted $96 for it. I can't believe they are that much, its just a small plug and a couple wires, what gives?? Maybe the one out of the old '88 will work for a while and I can get one later on. I wonder why that particular part isn't listed in the trouble code sequence?? I guess that code 55 was just a phantom code and not really anything to go by. Do you think I should tell the dealership what the problem ended up being? Maybe I could sell them the info. back for half of the $65 they charged me to do the diagnostic and didn't really get a diagnosis. Ha, that's a laugh. Anywho I just wanted to let you know that it looks like I'm all set and that I'm forever in your debt. I'll definitely put you guys in my favorites column and check in from time to time. I'm also thinking about making a donation. Hell you saved me a few bucks in research alone. Again thanks a bunch, Toni.

O.K., I did locate the ECU's under the steering column as suggested and swapped them out, thanx. To my surprise the '88 is still flashing the code 55 on the red light inside the box??? It would seem that it would clear if the problem was with the ECU itself. The ECU's look exactly the same , but, the numbers are slightly different. On a positive note when I started the car the check engine light didn't come on, but, the outside temp. wasn't that cold. I'll try it today as it is about 25*F this morning. I did find a link under my post that sounds exactly like the problem that I'm having , but, darn it all I can't get it to open. Not sure if it is too old now or what? Can anyone there help me out and direct me to another link like the one that is listed below? Thanx. I'll post the link if I can, http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=6489

Hello all. I am new to this forum and I have a problem that has been ongoing for a while. What it is is that when I start up my Subaru and the outside temperature is less that around 40*F., it runs terrible. I usually have to keep revving the engine to keep it going. As soon as it has idled for a while,(maybe a minute or so depending on the outside temp.), it will run just as it always has, like nothing is wrong.?? I've tried various things to get it to run right such as remove the egr valve and cleaned it. And also checked the operation of the associated vacuum switches that are connected to it.This didn't seem to make a difference. I've even taken it to a reputable Subaru dealer to have it checked and they couldn't tell me what was wrong with it. They did say that I had a code 55 and that it wasn't supposed to be there as that code is only for a California emissions car and this one is a Federal emissions car?? I'm a little suspect of the mechanics there at that dealership because while I was there I could smell something burning out in the waiting area. What it turned out to be was that the spring on the hillholder was broken and the brakes were stuck on my car and they couldn't even figure that out. When they brought me out to show me where the hillholder was (like I didn't already know) I noticed the spring just hanging there. I said to them, "isn't that spring supposed to pull that lever back into position?" Oh, he says we didn't even notice that! What they did recommend trying was to take the ECU out of another Subaru and see if that clears the problem up. I do have an old '88 out back that I could do that with if I can find the ECU. Does anyone there know where the ECU's are located on these cars?? Or conversly does anybody have any clue as to what the heck this problem could be? So far I'm about $150 poorer and my Subaru still isn't running right, so I hope somebody there can give some much needed advice. Thanx in advance for any input that you can give. Toni.