toni1595

After some deliberating, I decided to jack it up where the "frame" is behind the rear tires. I happen to have a couple of the old screw type house jacks and I blocked them up and got it so the tires are off the ramps now. It's up quite a ways. Leaves me plenty of room under there. I trigged the front tires and put the tranny in neutral, so I know it will set still. I think what I'll do is take the two bolted flanges of the driveshaft and undo them. That should allow me to take that out and give me room to remove the differential. After that it should be just a matter of unbolting everything. I'll write back when I have some more success.

yohy, I told the guy at the parts yard that it was a sedan but, he couldn't find one. The only difference as far as I can tell, is where the lower arm bolts on, there isn't any holes there on one side. I may be able to just weld another plate in there and use it anyway. There is a bolting plate on the other side. I'll know more when I finish getting the old one off. Gloyale, yes I am concerned about the support. I don't know if the struts will hold very well either. I may have to go and take it off the ramps and block it up. I'm headed back out now and look at it again. When you say "trailing arm supports", are you saying where the ends of the bars that bolt to the cross member,on the wheel ends are?

Well I'm in the process of removing the crossmember and I've hit a snag. On Alldata.com it says on one hand to remove the wheels in order to take the rear differential out. But in order to take the rear crossmember out, I need to have the wheels on it to support the vehicle. Can't have it both ways..... Right now its up on ramps. I think I could do it if I could turn the driveshaft enough to get at the 2 top bolts where the differential bolts to the driveshaft. The wheels seem to have to be turned a little to get at them good. I might be able to reach up in there, I don't know. Any of you gurus ever done this before?? I did finally get "close" to the correct part. The one I ended up with was for a wagon I think because it don't have the threaded holes for the lower support arms. I think I'm just going to take it off and try to repair the old one and call it good enough. I can't wait forever to get the correct part. I've been trying to find one for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty frustrated with the whole thing. Toni.

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Update for anyone interested, so far I havent been able to locate a crossmember. Like I said, the first one that was located, was too rusted out. The next one, when I went down to pick it up, the guy left early that day and I missed him. I had one of the guys at work finally pick it up for me, because he lives near there, and it was the frame piece in front of the rear crossmember. It is shaped like a "T". I called him back and he says he'll get the right part, after I sent him a drawing of it, which I guess I should have done in the first place. Yesterday I got a couple cans of PB Blaster and sprayed the crap out of most of the nuts and bolts that I could see. In fact while I was working on the body, I was able to loosen just about everyone of them, except for the two differential nuts on the back, those ones are going to be tough. I may have to cut them off as the corners are pretty well gone. Hopefully, I can save the studs themselves. On a good note, my older daughter, the one that originally owned this '95 Legacy, has purchased an '03 Legacy. So I won't need to build up another car for my younger daughter, I'll just give her this one when I'm done playing with it. To skirt the emissions test that's required in Southern Maine, I'll register it in my name and get it inspected in this area, so after the crossmember replacement, I should be good to go. Well this is where I'm at. Hopefully all is well with you. Toni.

Well the cross member that I originally found was too rusted out to buy. I checked out another one on the car parts list and this one appears to be good according to the yard guy. They will have it there Monday, I guess it isn't right there on site they are having it shipped from who knows where?? That means it won't get swapped out this weekend, maybe next?? There is one small rust hole on the outside of the body that I can work on. Shouldn't take too long to repair.I may need to remove the rear bumper though because I prefer to weld in new metal, it seems to last longer than body filler, which I've found only lasts about a year or so before the rust is back. That's all from here, hope you all enjoyed the fireworks, Toni.

No it's rusted through on the passenger side, no doubt about that. Its got to be replaced or at least repaired.The drivers side isn't as bad but its still quite rusty. Like I said, the rest of its pretty good on the whole. I tried to loosen up the bolts as a preemptive strike but they won't budge. I did spray some penetrating fluid up in there Sunday hoping it might work its way in. Otherwise they will be broken off when I finally go to remove them. And I don't see any way to get a torch up in there either. I'm hoping they're bolt with locknuts but they are probably threaded into the frame with a nut made onto it. I did locate a replacement crossmember and I may have that by the weekend and be able to do the R and R. I keep you posted on my progress, Toni.

http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk196/toni1595/ This is the only way I could post the pictures. Hope this link works....

To Gloyale, yes there is something there. It's really only bad right on the ends where it bolts on. While there is rust on it overall, its just surface rust. To Subaru3, you see the Maine State Police clamped down on inspections because a woman went into a lake up here and drowned due to brake failure and she had just had her truck inspected by a shady garage. Now we all pay, especially tough now with the price of gas and the local economies being what they are. Anything questionable doesn't get a sticker. Thanks for the link though, I found several of the crossmembers here in my state. Priced as low as $65. I'm just not sure if this will stay together while I disassemble it. To yohy, this is an AWD sedan as it does have a differential under the crossmember. Do you know what exact years will fit this car? Like I stated, I found several within 100 miles of my address, so I should be able to come up with something. I'm checking out the sources now. I have a subscription to Alldata.com, so I may add this car to it. To grossgary, your probably right, replacement would be best and safer, especially with welding around the gas tank and space is limited there. If I can get the piece, I'll probably spend my July 4th weekend doing a R&R. My daughter only plans on keeping it another year anyway and then she'll be able to buy a newer car. I'll post a few pictures later today after I get it up on my ramps.

Hi All, My daughter's 1995 LegacySedan is up for inspection and they found the crossmember over the rear wheels it rusted off where it bolts to the frame, if you can call it that. Wouldn't be that big of a deal but my younger daughter also has a car that needs some work done so she can get to her new job and to top it off, I found out our newly acquired Chevy Aveo needs a timing belt change and if it don't get it and it breaks, it's new motor time, so I'm told. I feel like I'm drowning in car repair hell. I'll probably have to pay to have my younger daughter's car done. That being said, if someone here could give me some advice on this crossmember repair, I'd be forever grateful. I'm not sure if I should just weld on some plates over the existing piece or cut the ends off and weld on new ends? And getting these bolts out, has me concerned. I tried to turn them yesterday and they are pretty tight and I don't see any way to get any heat or penetrating oil up in there unless you can access it from the trunk?? And the gas tank is also very close. I thinking it might be better to just remove it from the car completely, for safetys sake. So, has anyone here dealt with this kind of a repair? I'm not afraid of doing it, I'm just concerned about messing with this frame piece. If I go and cut into this will the back end come crashing down? Won't the rear struts support it? And I notice there are some support rods that are anchored to the rear wheel hubs. If I mess with this, will it upset the wheel alignment? So many questions, so little time. Thanks in advance for your input. Toni.

On behalf of the USMB, welcome aboard Ash. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the worst is probably behind you now........ Many times when buying a used car, the previous owner knows of the problems but, isn't going to let on and risk not selling it. That is one advantage of buying at a sales place, you usually get a 30 day/ 1000 mile warranty at the very least. Which would have covered the repairs in this case. I know the people here will make you feel right at home just as they have me. So if you have a problem, don't be afraid to get online and ask away. Good luck (from now on) with your Subie, Love, Dad/ Toni.

Not to get off topic but,she called yesterday afternoon to tell me that the car wouldn't start. I guess she went to Pizza Hut and was in the car eating and had the radio on and it just died. When she tried to start it, nothing. So, she called someone and got a boost and it took right off. Then she had only went a short ways and it quit again and would not start of course. Funny thing, she had just been to Sears a week ago or so and they checked out the battery and said it was fine. I guess the general consensus from her nearby relatives is that the alternator is shot because they unhooked the cables while it was running and the motor died. I've heard that this isn't a good thing to do on newer cars, is this so? Does anyone have any ideas about this one? I guess she is considering taking her old Buick back and let me keep the Sub. so that I can work on it for a while. Toni.

It has approximately 137K on the clock and according to the maintenance records the belt shouldn't have been on there too long. Well at least she has a base to go on from now. I told her to make sure she keeps track of the miles for that purpose (timing belt change). I hope this will keep her going for now because I am currently working on the Wife's Chevy Venture trying to get that so it will take a sticker. Meanwhile, the belt on my daily driver has over 60 K on it right now and it don't look like it will get done for at least another couple of weeks. By the way, do any of you guys know how far one of those belts will go? I'd like to just keep driving it and use the parts that I bought for the Sub. I picked up last summer. Not that it needs them but, I'm sure that down the road I'll have to do the same to that one, which I can't get on the road until warmer weather comes. I know first hand that if you lose one of the belts, the car stops running immediately. And then I'm faced with getting it towed to a place where I can repair it. I'm probably better off just putting on the belts to make sure I'll stay going for the time being. I'll see if I can set some time this summer to have her come up and I'll go in and replace the parts that need to be done. She seems to worry a lot about her vehicles but, I suppose she is a women and doesn't want to get stuck somewhere in harms way. Toni.

Well the Legacy my daughter just picked up last a few weeks ago has evidently blown a cam seal out which then caused the timing belt to let go. Of course she is at school nearly 150 miles away but, she did send me a picture of an oil trail from where she was parked. Not too much I could do for her from here. She ended up going to a local garage and they are going to replace the belt and seal to the tune of $530. Ouch! What timing, we just got done shelling between us $1900. She may have been better off at a dealership? I figured she would be good for a little while. Too bad, I probably could have done that job for under $100, and done BOTH cam seals as well. Not sure on the price of the belt. I know the 1.8 Liters have 2 belts that are around $40 at NAPA. I hear that the 2.2 L's have 1 belt and that getting the cam pulleys and such lined back up is kind of tricky. What do you guys think? Was the seal dried up from setting for a while and let go or does this type of thing happen from time to time? Toni.

The part number was 2AA090 for the valve assembly. The oil seal was 35210. The gaskets were 4AA071 and 7AA120. The price on the valve assembly was $94.12. It was just done also at 135,277 miles. This should narrow it down some. Toni.

Hey thanks for the info. Yes, she wants out of the Buick Century she is running right now and I can't blame her. It has been quite a bit of problems for her but, she almost got through college with it. It sounds good for the transmission outlook, the bill was over $600. I think I'll give her my approval as well. Especially after reading some of you guy's positive comments. I guess she has seen how well the Subarus that I've always run have held up and figured she would jump in also. I warned her though, once your hooked you may never go back......... Its kind of like an addiction. Thanks, Toni.

Hello all, yes it is a 1995 Legacy sedan. Now all I'm used to are the 1.8 Liter standard shift models so, this is all Greek to me. I did have a look see at it last weekend and from what I saw it looked pretty good. It has a 2.2 Liter engine, automatic transmission and I think it is an all wheel drive. Which brings me to my first question: Why is there a empty fuse holder up near the front right firewall? From what I've read in the archives this fuse needs to be out. If its in the car is in front wheel drive only??? The previous owner had some work done on the transmission in 2005. The receipt says it had a valve assembly replaced, oil seal, gaskets, filter kit and 6 quarts of ATF. So maybe it will be good for a while, who knows? From what the other repair receipts say, it looks like he kept the maintenance up pretty well. Overall the car looks good for the year. It has a few spots here and there. Tires are good, interior is great,motor is nice and quiet, and it shifts great.And for a Subaru, the oil leakage is minimal. At a price of $1900, I don't see how she could go wrong. Oh, I almost forgot, it has 137K on the clock but, I feel it should be good for another 100K. So what do you Subaru gurus think? Would this make decent car for a nearly graduated college student?

O.K thanks guys. Sorry it took so long to get back with a reply but, work, work, work.......... Yeah, I remember that water pump O ring on my old '88 GL wagon,(my parts car), and replacing that once because it was leaking. I didn't realize that this car had the same hookup on it, although I should have because of all the parts I've robbed off of it.Could be exactly where my antifreeze is going. I swear when I get out of the car after coming home from work I can smell that sweet antifreeze smell. So I'll plan on replacing the water pump and front seal. As well as all the seals that come in the NAPA kit. While I'm at it I think I'll do a compression check to see if the head gasket is bothering. Hopefully that's not where the antifreeze is going. Shoot, I might as well do the plugs if I'm going to take them out. I'd like to see this Subie make 300K but, I'm afraid the rust may get it first. Especially after I get the rustproofing to stop leaking all over it.

Hello all. Its a 1992 Loyale wagon and I'm just about ready, (56K miles) to do the timing belts again. And where I am losing a considerable amount of oil, (about 1 quart/2 weeks) I figured I'd try and do the cam shaft seals and whatever other oil seals that come in the kit that the NAPA guy says they sell. I'm not really sure of what I'm getting into but I have changed the timing belts a few times, so I think I'm good there. I found a real good parts list on one of the archive searches the other day but darned if I can find it again.I should have printed it off I guess. One other thing that bothers me is what is happening to my antifreeze. I have to refill the expansion tank quite often as well and I'm not sure where thats going either. I did notice some green colored drips on the snow today as I was dragging my snowmobile trailer out of the back forty. I looked around the bottom of the radiator but didn't see anything that stood out. My biggest fear is a head gasket but after seeing the drips I'm hoping its just a leak, although I have noticed quite a bit of moisture on the oil filler cap.I've read on this forum about a pipe that leaks but I'm not sure if this engine has it. I know my '88 had the pipe because I had to replace an o ring on it once. I also read where alot of mechanics replace the water pump when doing oil seal repairs. Isn't that a little excessive? I guess its because of its location. I'll do whatever you guy's experience dictates. I hate to put too much into this car as it does have over 215K miles on the odometer, but I'll need to keep it running until warmer weather comes so I can get the Loyale I bought last summer on the road. So basically after all this rambling, 2 questions: oil seal change out and antifreeze leakage. Thanks as always for your anticipated help. It is always appreciated. Toni. GO PATS!!!!!!!!

Hello Steve, I've had the same exact problem on a couple of Subs. What worked for me was to add a ground wire onto the wiper motor housing as suggested by one of the guys on this site. Try it and let us know....Toni.

I usually get my cv shafts at the local NAPA store. THey have a lifetime warranty so if they ever fail just bring them back, as long as you have the original receipt. I tried the cheapie ones from Double Discount, don't even waste your time, they aren't worth it considering your time to put them in. Where I had such a time with the lower ball joint I ended up toasting the inner grease seal. I've cleaned pretty much all of the old grease out of the hub and was wondering what kind of grease to use and amount of ? I have some that says its for cars with disc brakes so I'm thinking that it should be fine. Do any of you guys have a comment on that? Right back at you fellow Mainer.....Do you ever frequent the Bangor dealership? I used to but the last experience I had there wasn't good. Since they've grown to be a one stop buy 'em all car mall, they have kind of lost touch with the average joe. Later, Toni.

Well I was talking to the guy at the parts store that used to own the Loyale that I just bought and he tells me that the C V shafts are the original from the factory. Is this possible? To say the least I was flabbergasted. I will say that I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint out of its socket, ( after I removed the broken clamp bolt), oh what funnnnnnn. I guess I have brought it back from the dead though........... Now this is a '92 with 142K on the clock, and it does look as though this thing has never been apart. So what do you guys think? Toni.

O.K., I took the old cable out of my parts car, a '88 GL wagon , before I did I made sure it was easy to pedal down, and put it into my problem car and it seemed to do the trick! Its weird because the cable moves freely in its covering just as the other one did that I took out but, it pedals down a heck of a lot easier.......Thanks again for heading me in the right direction! Toni.

Well okay, I guess its unanimous, the clutch cable will have to come out. If that is indeed the problem, then it will be an easy fix.I did look at the routing of the cable and it set up just like my other Loyale, so I'll assume that its okay there..........I'll hold off on putting the headpipe back on until I get a new cable put in, just in case that doesn't take care of it. Thanx for the input guys. Toni.

Well as some of you may know I'm working on getting a recently purchased '92 Loyale roadworthy. So far I've got the automatic seatbelts operating again, freed up the rear wiper motor, and I just need to weld the flanges back onto my headpipe, (had to turn one 90 degrees to get a new thread). About all I have left is to figure out is what is causing the clutch pedal to be so stiff. I know my other '92 pushes down pretty easy but, this one takes quite a bit to get it down. The previous owner told me that he'd had the clutch replaced and it has been that way ever since. I figure while the headpipe is off and I do have a couple of ripped cv shaft boots, it would be a good time to take the tranny out and see what is happening in there. Do any of you guys have any suggestions on this kind of a problem? Thanx, Toni.