NVBigBlue

Thanks for all the input guys!

Excellent....... Some of that was up off Jumbo grade wasn't it?

Hey guys, You should also remember that the "8000 lb" rating, or any max pull rating for that matter, is usually calculated with only 1 layer of cable on the drum, and pull rating decreases with each additional layer. So in the case of the 8000 pound Mile Marker ( http://www.milemarker.com/PE8000.html ), by time you get to layer 5, the max pull is down to 3900 pounds. But like Sweet says, add a snatch block and you'd be back in business. Just my 2 cents. NV

Hey guys, I know a few of you have mentioned building a snorkel for your Suby's before, and I came across this link. It's a snorkel on a Suzuki and the pictures tell a pretty good story....BUT... Je ne parle pas français! (I don't speak French!) http://www.gadoueweb.com/meca-suz/Preparation/Samourai/snorkel.htm Au revoir! NV

I hope not as well. I've run into a few people like that too! Don't want to sell what-ever-it-is, but they're not going to do anythying with it either:banghead:

HA! I knew you would chime in on this..... hehehhe I have to say.....I know it's been sitting in the same spot for at least 3 years.....but looking at the weeds and crap piled up, I would guess more like 5 years..... I should be closing on our house on Friday so I have to wait to pick up any new "projects" until I sign the frickin huge check ....but after that.... and if I don't pick it up, I'm sure someone here might be interested in it!

Out driving around with my son today, we saw something I knew was there, but had totally forgotten about. I don't have any pics of it yet, and I don't even know if the guy would sell it......but since it's been sitting there in the same spot for at least 3 years....along with all the other "junk" in his yard, I'm pretty sure I could pick it up for next to nothing. So what am I talking about? An older (I think...) GEN I brat. It's red and has the hightop shell on it. The body, from what I can see, is in very good shape, with no dents or obvious rust. It either has a sliding rear window or the rear glass is gone, because the front windshield is broken from a piece of sewer pipe hitting it from the rear. It has 4 headlights and I think it has a push bar on it. Now if I was to pick this up, what would you guys recommend I repair or replace on it? I don't think I'd want to make it a off-roader, just something reliable to drive. Thanks, NV

Hey guys! If this is in the wrong spot....somebody please move it. I'm interested if any of you out there have ever run a suby rear end in any kind of "odd" position. By odd I mean things like: drive shaft running in a vertical position (pumpkin down, shaft up, etc.).... vent plugged, diff flipped upside down..... input running in a reverse direction as a normal direction.... What I'm getting at here is that I have a project in mind that suby diffs would be perfect for, but would require that one of them be flipped over. I won't go into too many details, but.... imagine taking a drive shaft and putting flanges on both ends....then bolting up a diff to each end of the shaft. Now obviously, if the shaft turns one diff the "right" way, the other is going to get turned the "wrong" way. That is, the output shafts off the rear diff would turn forward, and the output shafts of the front diff would turn backwards. BUT.....if you flip the front diff over (left to right)...now the output shafts off the front diff would also turn forward. Now I was thinking that if you plugged the vent and drilled a new hole in the bottom of the diff (now the top...) for a new vent, things would still run correctly. I think you might have to adjust the oil level to a correct level though. I think this would be better than flipping the diff over front to rear and running the input in reverse. Anyone see a flaw in this logic? And before someone asks..... the shaft would be driven via a gear bolted onto one of the flanges. AND I thought about running the imput shaft in a vertical up position (and connecting them via a wide drive chain), but then there'd be no oil to the pinion bearings and slop in the chain would cause problems.....:-\ To summerize...... I want to get four (4) output shafts turning forward using diffs from the rear of suby's, using one (1) drive shaft. Thanks... NV

Well, I thought you guys might want to see a few more pics. So I placed a few more up on my web site. Here is the address again: http://www.bristlenet.com/carb2spfi/default.htm Make sure you refresh the page. The new photos are near the bottom of the page. Basically, they show how we penetrated the firewall. We've gotten most of the wires reconnected to the right plugs, and now we're down to the ignition and fuel pump relays, a few ground and power connections, and mounting the ECU. We also have to do a little splicing into the existing harness to provide fuel pump power and tach signal, water temp, and oil pressure connection to the instrument panel. We're also going to wire in the existing CEL. Of course the really scarry part is coming up.......hooking up the battery and giving the whole thing some juice! Hopefully, if this thing actually runs, I was planning to: 1. Photograph the modified parts. 2. Trace out and make templates for any brackets needed. 3. Make a list of required items, including those from Lowe's. 4. Create vacuum, fuel and wiring diagrams. 5. List out what has to be made and/or modified. 6. Compile everything in one document, with pictures. 7. Set up e-commerce web site and charge $5000 per copy. OK, that last one is way out line.....it'd probably be more like $5. Oh, all right......you guys can have it for free. hehehe NV

I haven' run into any clearance problems yet, but to tell the truth I haven't actually checked......the hood does close, but it may or may nto be a tight fit, I'll look tonight. I did cut off one of the tabs, but I'll have to look and see which one it was. I had to make a custom hold down for it to be able to smoothly turn without catching the wires on the block. Ah....the stupid line from the water pump......well, we basically removed the original pipe and replaced it with a short "coupler" from my other Suby. It was part of the heater hoses on the other cars. Really just a short pipe with flares at each end.....and I mean short, about 3 inches maybe. I'm assuming you mean this cooling line from the block ( http://www.bristlenet.com/carb2spfi/images/100_1653%20(Small).jpg ) we actually ran that line to the little line on the water outlet, it's a tight fit, but it works...... look here: http://www.bristlenet.com/carb2spfi/images/100_1698%20(Small).jpg you can just see the clamp between the outlet housing and the disty. Thank you, no I haven't made up a vacuum diagram yet, but one is in the works.....also a wiring diagram will be included in my write up. We're getting very, VERY close. We've started wiring in the ECU, but had to stop due to weather again. Going to try and finish up tonight.....we only have about 20 wires left to connect . NV

Well, technically it's in Stagecoach......but since it's so close to Dayton....I prefer to say it's in Dayton.

Not much new stuff going on the last week or so. We are now working inside the cab though. Punched a couple of holes through the firewall (right below the wiper motor....barely missing the hard lines I didn't see....!!!) to run the "new" harnesses through and have started wiring things up. I removed the wiper motor to get clearance for the drill.....ended up breaking the stupid little plastic thing that connects the motor arm to the wiper arm.... . Other than that, just trying to stay out of the wind. As a side note..... I'd like to remind everyone about using safety goggles when working on cars. I was using my grinder on an old junker I have, and even with googles, I ended up getting some crap in one of my eyes. I had to go to the urgent care center to have it removed. It was not fun. Even though my eye had been numbed up, having to WATCH the DR. scrape my cornea with a very sharp object was not easy. I'm now putting drops in my eye every 30 minutes, and it feels like someone punched me on that side of my face. (ahhhh.......vicodin ) ..... So..... be careful out there! Oh yeah, they accepted the offer on our house....so now we're just waiting for paperpushers to do their job......we should close on or before May 6th! If you're interested, here is what it looks like: http://www.bristlenet.com/house/default.htm NV

Hey guys..... I moved those photos over to a domain I control.....lots of space and no pop-up ads. So here is the new address for the photos.... http://www.bristlenet.com/carb2spfi/default.htm The old link will still work, but the new one lets you get to the big pics as well. They are 640X480 so not too bad. But still modem users take care... And Jibs....... I might think about doing a brat.....but I doubt anyone would want to pay what I would ask! However.....I have been thinking about what I would differently. I have no doubt I will do another one.......but I'm thinking I might try the mega squirt option. But that's for another day... NV P.S. We're making an offer on our house tomorrow or the next day.....so we're spending a LOT of time cleaning up and working on the weekends......so having visitors would be.... shall we say.....rushed? HOWEVER!!!! If we get it.....we're planning on having a big @$$ BBQ party when it warms up! By then we should have it done and everyone that wants to come will be invited! It has 2 acres of fenced parking! hehehe Stay tuned for details!

OK boys and girls......a little Easter treat for everyone......pictures! You can check out this link: http://www.geocities.com/nvbigblue/ea81carb.htm I resized the photos to make it easier for modem folks..... but I am planning on putting up the full sized after a bit. So basically, the engine is in and plumbed. We built a "new" sub-harness for the engine and we've started wiring things into the "main" harness. Some of the stuff can be wired into the existing harness, some of it can't..... Between the weather and me starting a new job we don't really get a lot done during the week, but on the weekends we make pretty good progress. Oh yeah, looks like we are going to be buying a house in the next few weeks ......so conversion time will be even less....but the good news is that it has a garage! No more dirt in the hair! Happy Easter everyone! NV

Jibs is correct....

OK, time for another update..... First I have to say this: Kids, don't try this at home! Ok....that's a little harsh....I should say something more like this...unless you've got the time, the money, and a ton a patience....this swap probably isn't for you. This is definately NOT a weekend project. While it feels like a huge unending project....the end is near.....I think..... we've got the spfi manifold on, the disty modified and in place, almost every hose has been replaced, fuel pump mount modified, fuel pump mounted, hose adapters made and installed, fuel filter mounted, emission canister connected, and lots of other little things. Some of the things that had to be modified or fabricated....... had to make a new disty holddown, modified a solenoid on the spfi throttle body for disty clearance (wait till you see the pics), had to rotate the radiator cooling fan housing assembly 180 degrees to clear the hose from the water outlet, had to trim the fan assembly to clear the radiator inlet, had to trim the fan assembly to clear the radiator temp sending unit, had to fabricate a new water outlet to radiator inlet water pipe (gotta love copper pipe fittings), had to install some copper fittings to get the pcv valve hose to clear stuff and hook up, had to modify the water pump heater hose pipe (the one over the block)......some of this stuff was done for personal reasons....yes, i know a lot of folks would just disconnect the emissions canister, wouldn't care about routing hoses so you can still carry a full size spare, and things like that. But I like to be able to look back at a project, or more accurately, have someone ELSE look at a project, and go....nice. Of course, it seems like every time we try to do something, we have to FIX something first......like the radiator.....the top mounting bracket came off....so what's a guy to do???? well, you go to lowe's, buy a torch (because the one you got is like 15 years old and sucks...), flux, solder, etc, and spend an hour or so cleaning things up so you can show your son how, when everything is nice and clean, easy it is to repair a radiator yourself and save son $$$.....oh yeah, comes in handy making the above mentioned water outlet to radiator inlet water pipe...... This has definately been a learning experience for my son.....I think he is getting a crash course in learning....... OK, so what's left? Well, we have to build an air filter assembly mount (pics to come), mount the coil, secure the battery, relocate a few things (nothing major), and the big one.....wire the beast. We should have no problems here....we grabbed (with Jibs's help...) the entire wire harness from the ecu forward.......I think with another couple days work....this beast will live! Basically, we took the position of installing/fixing/modifying/fabricating all of the mechanical/"tube" connected pieces first, and leaving the electrical for last. OK, so that's where we stand. Hopefully, everyone will be able to enjoy a semi-final update after this next weekend. And YES, I do plan on creating a document detailing the process, and posting up a bunch of pics. On a seperate note.....I located not ONE, but TWO little hatchbacks right down the road from me! According to the owner....."I just drove them until they just stopped running....." Hehehehe.....can you say cheap..cheap..cheap? Sorry for the long post, but hey....now you know as much as I do! NV

Hey guys, Glad to see you all had fun. Wish I could have been there, but I've ben home sick since last Friday. Maybe next time. NV

Hey guys, The FI swap is going....a lot slower now....but still moving forward. Shall we say slight clearance problems? Pics to come..... As for the get together, I just started up at TMCC so I might be working on Sunday with some upgrades, but should know by the end of today. Keep me posted on where and when everyone is going and I'll try and make it. Of course, all I have is my Silverado though..... NV

Have you checked out the rest of that site? This guy did an great job of editing. Most excellent..... NV

Hey guys, OK, for those of you that don't know the story.....I met up with Jibs at the Carson PNP a couple weeks ago (really nice guy BTW). He was pulling (pulled) the LSD I spied early in the week, and my son (hmmm....really should get him on this board...) and I were attacking this '88 (ea82) for all of its SPFI guts. It was a fairly successful trip all in all.... got the harness, relays, intake (ha..another story there....), disty and coil, tbi, maf, airfilter housing and ductwork and fuel pump. Was kinda pricey by my standards....they priced a lot of the stuff out seperately (maf, tbi, dist.) but got out for not quite $200 for all that. And oh ya, it's NOT my fault they missed that ECU sitting right there on top of my tool bag....hehehehe....but Jibs noticed . At any rate, so far we've done the following to my sons '86 hatch: (we're talking ea81's here) Pulled the engine (I was right, borrowed a bore scope....valves were burnt) Pulled the engine out of my other Suby (import engine) Removed flywheel from hatch engine (bigger clutch) Resurfaced hatch flywheel ($40 locally) Stripped import engine of intake and extras Installed resurfaced flywheel Installed new clutch kit Installed import engine into hatch Installed SPFI intake assembly onto import engine Disty sent to machine shop for gear swap ($40) ...back tomorrow!! Wiring harness about 1/2 pulled apart Problems so far: We had to remove a small amount of material under the intake to get it to fit. Kinda odd....right at the flange (where the manifold crosses over), where the two halves of the block meet there is a small 3 x 2 inch raised area.....we took about 1/16 to 1/8 off.....just enough to keep the manifold from "rocking" on that point. The machine shop doing my millwork has been awesome. Most of their work is on ...eh hem....slightly bigger engines....like the the ones used to power boats.....the 50' to 150' kind, and tractor truck (over the road) engines.....now those are big pistons. They do work on some general automotive stuff, but not too many imports. He kinda felt bad when he charged me $40 for resurfacing the flywheel.....had to charge an "extra" $5 because the flywheel is stepped down in the center. Last time I had a flywheel done it was about the same price........and that was nearly 10 years ago (yes, I've been a away from the "working on the car at 12 am on Monday morning to go to work at 6 am Monday morning" thing for a while). Had a odd look on his face when I started explaining what I was doing, but took an interest in it once explained. So I'm hoping to get the disty back tomorrow, trim off the extra tab, and get it installed, and maybe get the fuel pump installed....of course depends on the weather.....stupid rain. I'll keep everyone up to date on how things are going with this conversion. And yes, I WILL be posting both pictures and the "manual" I've been putting together detailing this job. Later guys, NV

Whoa! Way fast. Thanks. I like the idea of removing it......less stuff = more engine bay room. NV

OK before we begin....I know it is easier to tell what part I am trying to identify with photos.....but it's dark outside now....pictures ASAP! now on with the question. I purchased a Japanese import engine about 10 years ago, and it has been sitting in my '81 wagon ever since (blown trans.....never fixed). So now I am going to put it into my sons '86 hatch. Pawing through the junkyard I have never seen the exact item I have on this import engine. This is my description: Oh this is a EA81..... On the back of the passenger side head is a small canister about 2 1/2 inches in diameter, and 3 1/2 inches tall. It is metal (silver in color) and has a lid attached to it with 3 snap-over clips (like you'd have on an air cleaner). It has a metal pipe (about 1/2 inch) that runs from the bottom of the canister to a threaded hole on the rear of the head near the bottom. On the top of the canister (the lid) there is a hose (rubber....about 1/2 inch) that runs up to a barb on the side of the lower aircleaner housing. I have a feeling this must be some type of EGR thingy. I've never opened the canister for fear of NOT being able to get it back together for some reason. Now I'm asking this because we are in the process of getting this engine ready to drop in his hatch....and....we've acquired the parts needed to convert this engine over to SPFI so there's a lot of stuff being removed. I'm wondering if this thing needs to be rebuilt, cleaned, replaced or if it can be removed. I'll take a picture and post it up as soon as I can. Thanks, NV

Ya, I'm over in Dayton, but unfortunately I only have Sat and Sun off . And this next weekend I'm out of town on Sun, and hopefully spending Sat and Mon (yeah! state holiday) working on the carb to spfi swap. But a few weeks down the line might work out if it's on the weekend... NV

Hey guys, It looks like I might be changing jobs shortly, which would require me to make a 120 or so mile round trip commute each day. I'd like to do this in something other than my truck (Chevy Silverado). I found a pretty nice little Justy for sale locally that nearly fits the bill. It's a '94 and has 88K on it. It is a 5 spd, but it's only front wheel drive. The body is really straight and clean, and the interior is in excellent shape. It runs really well, no oil leaks, etc. You can tell it's been taken care of.... They want $1K for it, but since it's been on the lot for about 6 months now, I think they're wanting to get rid of it, I'm pretty sure I can get it for $800 or so.... I'd like to buy it, and then convert it over to 4 wheel drive. I'm not looking for something to go off-roading in, just something that has 4 wheel drive. We do get a few days of 4wd only road closures each year. So my question is this: how hard would it be to convert it over to 4wd? I know I'd need these things, but I'd like to know what I might be forgetting: Transmission drive shaft rear diff w/ hangers etc. rear hubs and half shafts Anything else? I can get all this stuff from one doner car fro the local pick-n-pull. Thanks for the input! Bill