mwatt

Just to make sure I understand you: you're saying there are two sending units--one for the guage and one for the low fuel lamp? If that's the case, are BOTH of those accessible thru the panel under the back seat?

Now this makes sense. Really. I never thought to try this, and should have. You see, I've got little brain left; I'm married with children.

You're right---I did try "turning the key to the start position" as a bulb check--and the light does not come on in either car. The owner's manual for both vehicles has a short section about the low-fuel indicator lamp, but it does NOT say that bulb should light when the ignition is in the "crank" position. But I see your point---because the owner's manual descriptions of all the other warning lamps indicate that all of the rest should light when the ignition is in the "crank" position. When you mention "I haven't cleaned the sending unit as described in previous posts"----I did a keyword search but could not find anything. I know how to R&R the sending unit on these vehicles---but what problem was being corrected by cleaning the sending unit?? Inoperative guage? Inoperative low fuel light? I kind of figured that the low fuel lamp is actuated by the sending unit.........

Well, I've thought about doing that....but then I realized the potential hazard in carrying a partially filled gas can inside a vehicle, or possibly blocking traffic (when the car runs out of fuel) and creating a traffic hazard , AND I've read somewhere that running a newer vehicle out of fuel can damage the catalytic convertor. So I'm weighing out wether or not it's worth the time to diagnose this any further; I mean, the fact that this light works or not is rather nit-picky stuff anyway....Now, I know you're probably saying to yourself "if you're not willing to do the test you'll never get to the root of the problem" but I was kinda' hoping that someone else had seen this happen on their own vehicle???

at least I THINK it is....in my 99 Legacy GT and in my wife's 98 Legacy Outback. I could swear that when the Outback was brand new, the low-fuel indicator icon would come on when the guage needle was barely above "E". But now, the indicator in either car won't come on with the guage at "E". (Yes, I've got a bad habit of running on fumes, and somehow I've never run out of gas.) I've pulled the instrument cluster out of both vehicles to inspect and test the bulbs and the printed circuits for continuity; the bulbs are good and the printed circuits have no breaks. Anyone else out there have a concern with their low-fuel indicator lamp?? Exactly when does it, or when should it, come on? Owner's manual indicates that when it comes on , there's about 2 to 2.5 gal remaining in the tank-----and I know that on the '99, I've cut it much closer than that.....

Howard: Exact Fit REFILLS (if you still have the original blade assembly) from NAPA have worked great on our '98 Outback and '99 Legacy GT. You should also consider cleaning the glass by hand with paper towels and full strength (not diluted) windshield washer solvent or non-sudsing ammonia. This removes sap and "road film" that causes wiper chatter. I've even used lacquer thinner followed by Windex (to remove the haze) to clean the glass. Just keep lacquer thinner FAR away from the paint!! Also---soak a soft cloth with silicon spray and wipe it on the wiper inserts. That softens the rubber, making it more pliable and able to follow the contour of the glass without chattering. Learned these tricks while working for a GM dealer years ago---thru a GM technical service bulletin. Other trick I learned there was not to buy a Chevrolet.

Now I know what you're talking about--I forgot that some vehicles have that stationary glass in the rear doors. that allows the "main" glass to be straight on it's rearmost edge so that it rolls down all the way.....but isn't that design used only in "framed" door windows?

FMV= Federal Motor Vehicle (Safety Standards). But you've got me on this one......obviously Mercedes has gone one better than all the rest by incorporating the design that stops the window if its travel is obstructed. I know that right now there's a big push by the DOT, which developes FMVSS, to incorporate this design as a standard feature into all vehicles with power windows. I didn't realize that Mercedes has used this feature for quite a while.... As far as the rear windows....look at other vehicles where the rear doors are arched over the wheel opening. It's hard to find a vehicle where the rear windows lower fully into the door because of that arched design. There's no more room inside those rear doors for the glass to travel downward any furthur......I'm trying to think of another 4-door vehicle (with arched rear doors) where the rear windows roll down ALL the way into the door......???

Switch has an "express down" feature only. FMV safety standards prohibit "express up" windows. Normal operation: press switch down gently and window goes down until you release it. Press switch down firmly and "express down" feature lowers window all the way so you don't have to hold the switch. You need a new master switch if you want the express down feature to work as intended.

You're right, no Subaru security system. Maybe the label is just to fake 'em out?? Only you can tell if the car has a Lojack system........

Is there a panel that says "security" (with red LED indicator lamp in it) just to the left of the fog lamp switch on the dash??

for 1999 Legacy Outback Limited wagon. These are the liftgate pillar trim panels INSIDE the rear of the vehicle (just to the left and right of the liftgate) that have the little 2 inch diameter tweeters built into them. These panels only come with the tweeters on the Limited model, and I want to install them on my '99 Legacy GT wagon----the speaker wiring is already there from the factory....

Leave the driver's door window open, then lock the doors using the remote. Reach through the open window as if you were breaking into the car and open the driver's door with the inside door handle. Does an alarm sound (vehicle horn)? If yes, hit "unlock" on the remote to stop it. Did you access the link posted above?? Do your remotes look like the ones pictured for 1999-2004 Legacy and Outback models?

does your car have a blinking LED indicator light in a panel that says "security" right next to the fog lamp switch?? Or is there simply a "blank" plastic panel next to the fog light switch??

I have the opposite issue with my 99 Legacy GT. I want the factory alarm system to toot the horn when it's armed/disarmed, but right now, it doesn't do that. The lights flash but no "toot". There really is nothing in the owner's manual about turning that feature on and off. I realize that there is a body change between 1999 and 2000, but would you be willing to write out the instructions from your owner's manual so I can try it??

a short summary of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108 (in effect since 1969): "a vehicle exterior lighting system must be operable to make vehicle conspicious on the road.......at all times" (ignition on OR off). Since Subaru has chosen to wire headlamp/marker lamp circuit thru igniton side of electrical system (supposedly to PREVENT leaving lights on after vehicle is shut down), the switch on top of the steering column is required---to make marker lamps operable with ignition off.

Most parts stores (AutoZone, Advanced Auto, etc.) sell a rear defroster grid line repair kit. It's basically a tiny (expensive) bottle of electro-conductive paint that matches the color of the grid lines. I've used this stuff, and it works very well. Just use a test lamp to find the break in the grid line and apply the repair material per the instructions.

I'd be a little concerned about that mechanic.....the front rotors do not need to be "pulled" (or un-bolted). If you simply remove the lower of the two caliper slider/retainer bolts, the caliper (with brake pads still inside it) will tilt upward away from the rotor, then the rotor simply slides off of the lug nut studs. The REAR brake rotors, on the other hand, are a different story. They DO require unbolting from the hub to remove them. This is a more complicated job. The rear rotors are actually a "rotor and hat" assembly (for lack of a better term); they are a brake rotor with a brake "drum" made into the inside of them. The brake drum is for the parking brake.

Is there an automotive trim/upholstery shop in your area? If the bottom cushion cover is not worn through, perhaps a trim shop could remove the cushion cover and add padding to the existing bottom "bun" (foam cushion), then reinstall the cloth (or leather) cushion cover......

For the misfire condition---tell me you don't have the original spark plug wires on that engine at that milage........(or do you?).

When you're checking the transmission fluid level, are the engine and transmission fully warmed up, idleing in "P" with the vehicle parked on a level surface? Did technician refill with recommended Dexron III fluid??Also--did you look at the new transmission filter (and your invoice) to make sure the filter was genuine Subaru? If you're positive the fluid level is full when the transmission is hot with vehicle on a level surface, and the new filter is genuine Subaru, I'm afraid I'm out of ideas on this one........

I thought about my reply and you have a good point. Perhaps change filter every OTHER fluid change? (change fluid every 30000 and change filter every 60000 miles??)

I'm not sure I saw a post in this thread regarding "hesitation of the AWD". Isn't everyone posting here referring to the automatic transmission delaying before going into gear, or slipping out of gear when stopped?

You had the trans fluid and filter changed where? Subaru dealer??