mwatt

.......says the article at the bottom of page 8 in the Aug 29th edition of Automotive News (a weekly newsmag. published by Crain---can be found at many public libraries). Article says "Based on the Subaru Legacy platform, the seven-seat vehicle with a 2.5 liter engine would be smaller and more affordable than the B9 Tribeca........"

I'll bet that whistle noise from the exhaust system on hard acceleration is likely a plugged catalytic convertor. Chances are that the catalyst substrate (the "honeycomb" inside the convertor) melted down when it got so hot from the previous misfire condition.

Yes. Did you use a genuine Subaru pad Kit? Those shims come with the kit.

Most likely a restricted expansion valve. It's located at the evaporator (inside the vehicle under the dash). Expansion valves can become plugged with tiny bits of metal as a compressor slowly wears out. I've seen people try to clean the inlet screen on expansion valves in an effort to re-use the part; that depends on your budget and skill level with A/C systems. Probably best to simply replace it and be done with it.

The trick to removing spark plug wires from the spark plugs is being able to get your hands in there to begin with. Did you remove the windshield washer fluid tank on the driver's side and remove the air box assembly on the passenger side? On the driver's side, it also helps if the fuel filter bracket assembly is unbolted from the strut tower.

I've even heard that carrying less fuel in the tank (thus reducing vehicle weight) can make subtle differences in fuel economy. I never fill mine beyond about 1/2---but that's because I'm married with children; I have no money.

All 1996 and newer vehicles have "OBD2" (On Board Diagnostics level 2) required by Federal law. The ECM will store the fault code for many "drive cycles" so the code can be pulled any time---not just when the vehicle fails to start.

Diagnose why the "check engine" light is on first. Have someone determine what fault code is being stored in the ECM. That will likely lead you to the failed component--perhaps a coolant temp sensor, but there are many sensors, thus many possibilities. It is likely that by correcting the cause of the "check engine" light, you'll also correct the difficult hot-restart issue. Vapor lock was "engineered" out of vehicle fuel systems decades ago. And if the car isn't "starving for gas" when you stomp on the throttle, it is very unlikely that the fuel filter is restricted.

So I went and looked at mine ('98 Outback LTD and '99 Legacy GT) last night after I read your post.....Well I'll be damned.....I sure messed that advice up, didn't I? I guess as the metal has discolored over the years, it gave me the impression that the rotor and hub were one piece. Thanks for opening MY eyes, too. And my apologies for giving everyone wrong advice....

You're right, the large nut needs to come off to remove the rear rotors (and the caliper bracket has to be removed, too). The rear rotors are not the "slip-on" design like the front ones. I'm fairly certain that the bolt requires a 32 mm socket. It is not reverse-threaded.

To remove and install rotors, the caliper brackets have to be removed to allow the rotors to slide off. (You can leave the caliper attached to the bracket) There are two 17mm bolts that secure each caliper bracket to the knuckle assembly. I've used "mechanics wire" to hold the caliper and bracket assembly up and out of the way while sliding rotors off and back on to the hub.

Take a look at this link (originally posted by SEA#3 in another thread). I found this very handy in helping me understand the shift characteristics of the 2nd gen. 4EAT in 1999 models; I wonder if these characteristics apply to later models??: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/19994EATInfo.pdf I notice that the first 3-4 upshift (after a cold start) on my '99 Legacy GT is delayed--even if the ambient temp is near 100 degrees. I'm convinced that this is a normal condition.

Yes, it does. It's the same size "crush washer" that's used for the engine oil pan drain plug.

Yes, I have. Although I have a '99 Legacy GT (auto), the symptoms on my car are very similar. If I touch the throttle just lightly enough to edge the car forward in traffic, especially on an incline, the engine will "stumble" and hesitate. If I press the throttle normally, like accelerating away from a traffic light, the engine responds normally. And these symptoms seem worse after a hot restart. I simply haven't "gotten around to" correcting the problem on mine, but I am going to replace the forward oxygen sensor and clean the idle air controller. There have been other posts about the forward oxygen sensor response time slowing as the sensor ages (even though the "check engine" light never comes on), and the idle air controllers become plugged with carbon.

Well, you've got me there---- I've always been under the impression that any multi-port injected engine has to have some fuel pressure in the rails if one expects the injectors to spray immediately upon cranking the engine? I just thought of something else: now, this is from my previous experience at the GM dealer, so it may not apply here----but what about the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay? I remember on late 80's and early 90's vintage GM vehicles, when the fuel pump relay failed, the fuel pump would not work until the oil pressure sensor was able to "see" engine oil pressure after extended cranking, and once the oil pressure sensor "saw" oil pressure, the ECM would turn on the fuel pump. Just a thought..........

I wonder if the fuel rails are holding fuel pressure while the vehicle is parked for an extended period? If they don't, you'll have to crank the hell out of the engine before it will "fire up". If this extended-crank problem is still an issue, when the vehicle has been sitting overnight, try this: Turn the key to the "on" position for 20-30 seconds and just sit there BEFORE attempting to crank the engine, then try cranking it. Does it then start easily? If so, something's not holding fuel pressure---like the fuel pressure regulator, for example. (leaving the key in the "on" position before cranking allows the fuel pump to re-pressurize the lines and rails, which it normally should not have to do after an overnight sit).

Our 2 Subarus are automatics but my first inclination would be to look at the adjustment and operation of the "Hill-Holder" mechanism (does Subaru refer to it as the "Positive Hold Valve??) at the firewall. That's the mechanism that prevents the car from rolling back on a hill until you begin to engage the clutch---and it does that by holding brake pressure until you start letting up on the clutch pedal. Matter of fact, I think the owner's manual describes a method of disabling it should it malfunction. And the odor? (I love that Seinfeld episode). Go to Wal-Mart and pick up a can of Ozium aerosol spray in the "new car smell" scent. Typically found in their automotive section where those silly-rump roast Christmas tree fresheners are located. Spray seats and carpet, close windows, allow car to sit overnight.

Well, it's one hell of a lot less a hit than you'd be taking on an Impala a few years from now......

I've said it before and I'll say it again: the reason my wife and I drive Subarus (and a Caravan, but you didn't hear that) is because I used to work at a Chevrolet dealer...............remember the old saying "you get what you pay for"? That definately applies here. The Impala is NOT an awful car (that term is reserved for Kia) but you WILL be plagued with lots of little nagging problems (hey, you'll make new friends at the Chevy dealer.....) And I can't over-emphasize the fact that the value of the car will plummet like nobody's business during the first couple of years. If you insist on an Impala, why don't you consider a one or two-year-old used one and let someone else take the hit?

First thing to check: is the decorative wheel center cap (that says "Subaru" on it) secure in the center of the wheel?

Hell, you deserve some sort of recognition just for having to deal with that GD Beltway every day. That's no small feat. I do the 270 crawl from Frederick county every morning, but that's easy by comparison. So at 40 psi, don't you feel every bump, ridge and pebble on the road? When we bought our '99 Legacy GT last year, after a few days I began noticing that the car "banged" over the slightest bump. Sure enough, the previous owner had 'em inflated to 44 psi........

It must be a great feeling of accomplishment to get a $1200 Outback running perfectly again....but what are you trying to accomplish by over-inflating the tires? You ought to consider inflating the tires to the pressures shown on the label inside the driver's door. Yes, the maximum pressure on the sidewall says 44, but that's not what the manufacturer of the car calls for. If you really have the tire pressure jacked up to 40 PSI cold, aren't you worried about compromising the handling and safety of the car?

We've got 2 Subarus and they're really great cars. I find them easy to maintain and they've been trouble-free. But after working at a Chevrolet dealer for about 15 years, I feel compelled to tell you about the Impala: plan on visiting your Chevrolet dealer often---you'll get to know them well. The car is relatively solid and relatively dependable but I can assure you that you'll have one annoying minor problem after another.....and if you're not visiting for a warranty-related concern, you'll be visiting for a recall. To be fair, the 3800 V6 engine in the Impala is nearly bullet-proof, but then so is the latest version of Subaru's 2.5 liter engine. Oh, yeh---one more thing---if you buy the Impala, you'd best plan on keeping it for a long time, because the depreciation on that car during the first couple of years will astonish you.

I fully agree. When we bought our '99 Legacy GT (the car I've referred to in previous posts here) last Sept the previous owner showed me his maint records---and the trans fluid had not been changed (115K miles). I used that as leverage to talk him down on the price. And I've changed the trans fluid on it one more time (early August) since I wrote about it back in January (just because it's so easy to do and the fluid is pretty cheap). The trans still goes into gear immediately. I still think fresh fluid has "swelled up" shrunken seals. On my wife's 98 Outback that we've owned since new (and I've changed the fluid on it every 25-30K) the transmission has never been a problem.

Has your Subaru dealer inspected the vehicle for this concern yet? Have you asked your dealer if there are any service bulletins about low-speed engine surging? If the dealer has inspected the vehicle and gives you a "no trouble found" or "normal operating condition" kind of answer, you ought to call Subaru of America headquarters in NJ and ask that an area rep contact you. I'm wondering if there isn't some sort of ECU "re-flash" (computer re-programming) that Subaru is aware of to correct that condition?