mwatt

Well, of course it's not really a "fix". It's more of a diagnostic procedure, at best. Try following the POSITIVE battery cable from the battery---it ends up at the starter. I guess the best description I can give of a starter motor in layperson's terms would be that it looks like an electric motor (because it is) that's about 8 or 9 inches long and it bolts to the back of the engine---you can see it when you look down from the top of the engine--after following the path of the positive batt cable.

Will the starter crank the engine if you jiggle the shifter, force it further toward the "P" position, or move the shifter to "N"? If messing with the shifter won't get the starter to crank, locate the starter near the top rear area of the engine and find something that'll fit in there (the handle of a screwdriver, etc) and allow you to strike the starter a couple of times--that may jar the solenoid temporarily and allow it to crank..... I see you mentioned "key stuck in ignition". The ignition lock won't release the key if the shifter isn't all the way in "P". Even though YOU are putting the shifter all the way into Park, the shifter cable probably has to be adjusted, or lubricated, or even replaced---so that the ignition lock "recognizes" that the shifter is in "P" properly.

Canister should be located at passenger-side rear corner of vehicle, approx 1 foot forward of the bumper. It's mounted rather high up ---you really need to crawl under the vehicle at the right rear corner and look up to see it.

I'm not recommending how to do this, but wanted to caution you if you decide to modify a seat or the way it mounts to the floor. If you're involved in a collision after you've modified a seat or the way a seat mounts to the floor, the seat is more likely to tear loose from the floor or break a seat track. Obviously, that increases the possibility of injury to occupants. Insurance investigators love to find stuff like that....... Do you have a Legacy L wagon ? The GT and the Outback for '98 and '99 had height-adjustable driver's seats. Perhaps you could obtain a height-adjustable driver's seat from a wrecking yard?

Good God, man, where on earth are you bringing your vehicle for service???? Even though the price of R134 refridgerant has skyrocketed this year, 35.00 per pound is WAY out of line....and where did they come up with 800.00 if they haven't even done any testing yet?? It sounds as if they're going to recharge the A/C and add leak tracer dye to it. After the system is used for a few days and the dye has had a chance to circulate, any leak on external A/C components (the "under-the hood" components) will be visable because the dye will show up, typically where a hose connects to a component because every connector has an "o" ring to seal it. But there are other items that can leak besides "o" rings. The condensor (in front of the radiator) could be punctured and leaking. The evaporator (under the dash) could be leaking....and because the evaporator is hidden, no "dye test" will show a leak there. Perhaps someone should use an electronic refridgerant leak detector to "sniff" around the components---those kinds of detectors are quite reliable and rather common.....

My wife and I own a 1998 Outback Limited and a '99 Legacy GT---some of what you're feeling and hearing is normal (I've elaborated on this below)---BUT---if the A/C system is not fully charged with refridgerant, the compressor will cycle on and off rapidly, rather than the normal "occasionally". If the A/C system is undercharged, it's designed to "get your attention" by cycling on/off rapidly--about once every second or two. The A/C compressor is supposed to cycle on and off as necessary to maintain correct evaporator core temperature so it won't freeze up. (the evaporator is the A/C part in the dash that makes the cold air---looks somewhat similar to a heater core). We hear that same faint "click" under the dash of our cars as the compressor cycles on/off---that's the compressor relay just doing its thing. The engine control computer is designed to bump the engine idle speed up slightly to compensate for the drag of the compressor when it cycles on. So I believe your A/C is under-charged, causing rapid on/off cycling of the compressor, and thus, the normal up and down idle speed adjustment by the computer when it senses "compressor on". You may have a refridgerant leak, or it may not have been fully re-charged. I'll bet once the system is charged correctly (and any leak repaired), the compressor won't cycle rapidly anymore.

Hyundai and Kia still tend to have some of the worst resale values in the industry. The general consensus used to be that they were "throw-away" cars. Even though their products and repair records have substantially improved recently, first impressions are lasting impressions. It is their previous history of poor build quality, poor quality of materials used, and poor crash-worthiness on older models that continues to drag down resale values.

Are you the same person that wrote another post about valve seals failing?

Has the PCV valve ever been replaced (with the correct Subaru part--not any aftermarket)?

are you talking about valve stem oil seals or do you mean valve cover gaskets/spark plug seals/valve cover bolt seals? Leaking valve stem seals will cause the engine to burn oil. Leaking valve cover gaskets and/or valve cover bolt seals will cause the engine to drip oil which will cause a burning odor.

This makes me wonder if the BTSI solenoid is somehow adjustable (for length of travel) or maybe your solenoid is beginning to fail.

I don't know the exact reason this happened to you but there is a way to release the shifter from "P" if the BTSI (brake-transmission shift interlock) system fails. There is a BTSI over-ride lever at the front of the shifter (under the console). By pressing on this over-ride lever, it'll allow the shifter to release from "P". The only tool you'll need is a Phillips screwdriver. Do you want to know how to use this over-ride lever if the problem re-occurs?? It sounds like the problem is with that BTSI system. Just as an aside though--did you apply the parking brake---before you let go of the brake pedal--- when you parked the vehicle on that slight hill?? Doing that will prevent the weight of the parked vehicle from resting on and possibly jamming the park pawl mechanism inside the transmission----

When the hiss and power loss are occuring, is the exhaust gas coming out of the tailpipe with full force or does the exhaust gas flow from the tailpipe seem weak? Reason I ask? I suspect the catalytic convertor is restricted or the substrate (the "honeycomb" inside the convertor) has fallen apart. That would result in a loud hiss, especially upon acceleration, and a loss of power. Consider attaching a vacuum guage to one of the intake manifold vacuum ports, hold the throttle at a steady 2000 rpm and watch the guage---if the vacuum reading falls at steady speed, there's a restriction in the catalytic convertor. (Make this test with the engine fully warmed up.)

Then you're right---the motor is OK---it's the switch that's causing the trouble where the wipers won't sweep when you pull the lever forward. And I learned a few things here also---not only is the wiper switch replaceable separately but you can substitute a switch with "adjustable intermittant timing" for a switch that had "non-adjustable"----thank you avk. When you mention "looks like another thing that has to be replaced..." just be thankful that Subarus are really quite reliable. When I worked at a Chevrolet dealer for many years, some of those owners were in there with their cars literally every month for one problem or another......

All this time I never knew this---I thought the wiper switch was part of the multi-function switch and it couldn't be replaced separately. This is good to know because my wifes '98 Outback has the "fixed delay" switch that doesn't allow adjustment of wipe intervals. So the "adjustable delay" switch can be substituted for the "fixed delay" switch with no modification??

Can you get the wipers to "sweep once then park" by moving the control from off to low and back to off again right away? If yes, you need a multi-function switch (also known as a "combination switch assembly", turn signal switch assembly)

The motor does not keep running--the problem is that power is still being applied to the motor when it shouldn't be. When the glass reaches the bottom of its travel, the master control is supposed to sense the sudden hi amp draw from the motor when it jams at the bottom of the window travel and then "click off". That's how most "express down" window systems are designed. If one were to deliberately grab the glass and jam it in the middle of its auto down-travel, the switch should also "click off" then, too. The clicking that people hear when the switch is stuck in the "down" position is the periodic off/on cycling of the circuit breaker that's built into the window motor trying to protect the motor. It's also important to note that the problem never occurs if the left front window switch is pressed down gently to lower the glass "manually" (even down to that last tooth on the regulator). It only occurs when the switch is pressed firmly to actuate the "express down" feature.

Isn't that oil designed specifically for Diesel engines?

I've figured it out. Subaru, Chrysler, and Toyota are purchasing window master control switches from Kia.

Consider ordering it from 1stsubaruparts.com I've ordered a bunch of stuff from them (they're actually a Subaru dealer with a website) and have always been pleased. Great service and, even with the cost of shipping added in, the prices are still much more reasonable than at most dealers. The website can be a little clunky to navigate thru, but there's a toll-free number listed so you can order from a real human, if desired. By the way, installation of the master control is quite easy on a '99. The door trim panel pops off relatively easily and, as I recall, the master control is attached to the panel (but I can't remember if it's held with screws or if it "clips" into position)....

Well, besides our '98 Outback Limited and our '99 Legacy GT, we have a 2000 Caravan ES (same van as your T&C). The window master control was replaced under warranty because it wouldn't "click off" by itself when the driver's door glass reached the bottom of its travel. Dealer told me "yeah, we're having a problem with those switches....."

Yes, that's correct. The "express down" feature won't shut off when the window reaches the bottom of its travel. It's supposed to sense the sudden "bind" of the motor pulling more amperage when the glass stops, and instantly shut off. When it doesn't cut the power to the motor, the circuit breaker in the motor takes over, just as if someone were to deliberately hold the switch in the "down" position. Unfortunately, the auto "express down" feature is built into the master control, requiring replacement of the master control assembly. If it's any consolation, most vehicles share this design; this problem isn't unique to Subaru.

Have you tried rotating the tires first, just to be sure they're not the source of the noise? Tires that are worn improperly or that have tread defects will "roar" and/or make a "whump-whump-whump" sound with every revolution.......

Have you tried rotating the tires first, just to make sure they're not the source of the noise? Tires with uneven tread or tread defects will "roar" and/or make a "whump/whump/whump" sound with every revolution.......

Replace the driver's door window master control assembly. The clicking noise you're hearing is the circuit breaker that's built into the MOTOR clicking on and off because the switch contacts are stuck. The circuit breaker is cycling on and off to prevent the window motor from burning up.